E kettle or heat stick. Need help on deciding.

[BxBrewer]

Ok let me fill you in what I have and what I want to do. I'm a extract brewer using a 5gal pot on a gas stove. My power burner has no problem getting 4 1/2g of wort to a boil. My problem is my brew operation is on a different floor than the kitchen. Luging stuff up and down is a choir.

E kettle or heat stick? Because this is a condo type house and in NYC. There is no central air, only window air conditioners. There is a 120v 20a single outlet right below the window. My thought is to make a cord with a GFI outlet and a on off switch to plug the heat stick or element into.

What size element should I go with ? Will I be able to get 4 1/2g to boil in a insulated kettle ?

 

[ComeOnNow]

Are you going to put the put on the stove, and supplement with the heat stick, or only the heat stick?

 

[BxBrewer]

Just the heat stick, partial boil. I also plan on insulating the kettle as well.

 

[HopsMan]

With 4.5 gallons, I would personally go with a 120v low watt element plugged in. I would encourage you to wire up some sort of pulse width modulator device to control the boil if you go that route. Another option would be finding a hot plate, and using a heat stick to supplement. I know a guy who brews his 5g extracts in this manner, and it works well for him.

I'm not entirely sure if a heatstick would do the job itself, but someone who has tried might have better input.

Good luck!

 

[BxBrewer]

Would I be able to run a 120v 2000w element on the 20a circuit ?

 

[wilserbrewer]

I would use a 2000w heatstick, I like heatsticks even if they are a bit ghetto, 2000w will boil 4.5 gallons but may not be super fast, insulating the kettle, or at least wrapping with a towel might help a little.

Kettle mounting will work very well also!

How big is your kettle? Reason being is if you are trying to boil 4.5 in a 5 gallon pot, then you may want some sort of PWM control on the element as the boil may get rolling well jump out of the pot a bit. If your kettle is 9-10 gallons, I would just let the element run 100% w/ no control.

 

[HopsMan]

yeah, you shouldn't have an issue, that should only draw 16.6 amps. You might have to watch how many things you have drawing from that circuit, and turn some stuff off, or not use other things while brewing.

 

[HopsMan]

If you don't mind a little slower boil time, the heatstick might be the way to go. There is a lot less messing around with wiring and holes in your kettle that way. That being said, I love my pwm controlled e-keggle and wouldn't do it a different way! (Apart from full automation, of course )

 

[wilserbrewer]

In my observations, PWM control is great for larger elements that might cause a boilover...but with only 2000w, all you ever want to do is turn it up higher, never lower. Just can't imagine ever needing to turn down a 2000w boiler, unless you are boiling 4.5 gal in a 5 gal kettle, then fine tuning might have value.

 

[HopsMan]

In my observations, PWM control is great for larger elements that might cause a boilover...but with only 2000w, all you ever want to do is turn it up higher, never lower. Just can't imagine ever needing to turn down a 2000w boiler, unless you are boiling 4.5 gal in a 5 gal kettle, then fine tuning might have value.

His first post he mentions a 5 gallon pot, so 4.5 might be a bit tough to control. I went without one for a 240v 5000W element and my 10 gallon boils were boiling over unless I stirred constantly. Chances are he would be fine, but I've always thought it was nice to have control over the boil.

 

[BxBrewer]

yup a 5gal pot. I do use Fermcap when on the stove and it helps with the boil overs. PWM ? Is that like a dimmer switch to dial it back ? Lost in the e-lingo lol.

 

[wilserbrewer]

yup a 5gal pot. I do use Fermcap when on the stove and it helps with the boil overs. PWM ? Is that like a dimmer switch to dial it back ? Lost in the e-lingo lol.

Yea, sorry missed that about the 5 gallon pot, you will need either a PWM pulse width modulator I believe, or a 10 gallon kettle. My vote is a bigger kettle FWIW, cheers!

 

[HopsMan]

PWM is a pulse width modulator, it basically gives you a dial control that pulses current to the element at speeds based on how high you have the dial turned up, allowing you to control the vigor of the boil. PWM kits are dirt cheap, and very easy to wire up with simple soldering skills. Add a project box, a relay, and you're good to go!

A ten gallon pot is also an option!

 

[fbold1]

I use an induction cook top, 1800 watt, but I don't boil 4.5 gallons, more like 3. I also wanted to get out of the kitchen. It does hold a boil at a low setting once you get it there.

 

[BxBrewer]

Do you guys think a 2000w is too much for a 4gal boil ? Should i go with a 1650w instead ? I plan later on to upgrade to a larger kettle so this is more or less a cheaper test with what i already have.

 

[HopsMan]

The main problem if you're going with just an element with no control is that you will most likely either undershoot and have hard time getting to a boil or overshoot and have boil overs. I know you can do some funky math and get pretty darn close, but I just overshot on mine, and built a controller. If you do go lower, it may end up that you also need a heat stick to get a good boil in a decent amount of time.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Do you guys think a 2000w is too much for a 4gal boil ? Should i go with a 1650w instead ? I plan later on to upgrade to a larger kettle so this is more or less a cheaper test with what i already have.

Sorry but there are too many variables for someone to predict what type of boil you will get...alum pot or SS? ambient temperture? length / type of power cord? etc., etc.

If I had to guess, I would go with the 2000w, 1650 would be too slow for me?

Be warned, 2000w might splash a little wort out of the kettle on boil??? IDK

Boiling that close to the rim with "no control" sounds dicey perhaps but might work fine???

Elements are cheap, play around till your happy would be my advice. NOT interested in a larger kettle?

 

[BxBrewer]

Thanks guys, i think im going to go with a 2000w. Everything ive read stated they worked for what im looking to do. Wilser, would love to have a bigger pot ! My problem is the kettle im looking at is too tall to go on my stove "Microwave above". If this experiment works as well as i think it will for extract brewing. I win't have any fears punching holes in a new pot. New bigger pot = BiaB for me.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I thought you were looking to get OFF the stove?

 

[BxBrewer]

I thought you were looking to get OFF the stove?

I am !!! Thats why im trying out on my smallish extract pot. The reason i didnt go with a bigger pot to begin with was because of my limitations with my stove and clearance.

Moving off the stove gives me alot of options.