head_dunce
Member
I agree with what most everyone else is saying as far as what may happen but I say go for it anyway!
Thanks!
It's like you guys never made drano bombs before or something, eesh...

I agree with what most everyone else is saying as far as what may happen but I say go for it anyway!
luke_d said:I'm just imagining a hot break in a carboy...volcano status.
Won't even make it to that point. The only danger for this guy is burning himself on his double boiler or breaking his carboy before he ever gets it in there. As much as I think a hot break volcano would be epic, just not gonna happen. Now if he direct fired his carboy, all bets are off...
kh54s10 said:If the wort boils there will be hot break. It is going somewhere. I bet it would build pressure and spew!
I've had mini breakanos when boiling starter wort in the flask. Directly on a hot plate, of course. (prepare for sarcasm... now) How does he do it? you ask. Pyrex, my friends. Pyrex.![]()
They make boil beads for this reason. we use them occasionally in the lab, but it seems like they would be a PITA for our application.
i did some work with glass in a science class in grade 9. glass won't shatter because of the heat. we would heat a glass tube up over a gas burner and bend it into shapes. what you didn't want to do was drop it into cold water. the thermal shock would cause it to break. i split my thumb open trying to bend the glass when it wasn't ready to form.
how do you think glass is formed? you heat it up to around 1800f (not 100% sure on the temp) and then in becomes close to a honey consistency and you can mold it. you can also cool it down slowly and it goes back to the way it was. no issues at all.
That's the problem. A double boiler physically cannot boil what is inside the "inner pot" (carboy in this case)
kh54s10 said:I thought the point of a double boiler was to keep what is inside from direct contact with a scorching heat source. I do think that if you heat the outer liquid to boiling and keep it there long enough the inner pot would boil also.
Hence the hot break volcano.
Also if the brew is going to work properly the bittering hop additions need to be boiled.
You can't fire polish non silicate glass or heat and bend it with out causing stress fractures. To manipulate by fire you have to raise to temp on the whole object. That's how the guys that flare out the tops of bottles do it. Its just the difference in the type of glass. Pyrex can be fire polished with a propane torch. I snap and fire glass rods at work once a year and fire polish the edges of beaker when needed.i did some work with glass in a science class in grade 9. glass won't shatter because of the heat. we would heat a glass tube up over a gas burner and bend it into shapes. what you didn't want to do was drop it into cold water. the thermal shock would cause it to break. i split my thumb open trying to bend the glass when it wasn't ready to form.
how do you think glass is formed? you heat it up to around 1800f (not 100% sure on the temp) and then in becomes close to a honey consistency and you can mold it. you can also cool it down slowly and it goes back to the way it was. no issues at all.
That's the problem. A double boiler physically cannot boil what is inside the "inner pot" (carboy in this case)
Fermcap S pretty much does away with it for me. But if you forget to add a drop, and walk away, it gets messy.
You are correct, that is the point of the double boiler. But the inner pot will not boil unless you have a liquid with a much higher boiling point on the outside. If you just have water on the outside it will get to a max of 212 F. The wort will therefore get to a max of 212 F. Just being at the boiling point will not cause a liquid to boil. Additional heat must be added to cause the water to change from the liquid phase to the vapor phase. Since there is no temperature differential (212 - 212 = 0) at this point, no heat transfer will occur so no phase change will occur. Hence no boil. Like someone said earlier, this issue is compounded further by the fact that the boiling point of wort will be slightly higher than pure water anyway.
Ha, you guys are too much. So if I take one of these cheap pint glasses I've got here, put it in a pot of water, then boil it all, it'll crack and explode?
Ferm cap kind of slipped my mind.
You are CRAZY!! Just my 2 cents.With the carboy is inside a metal container filled with water, if the carboy broke, not much would happen aside from some lost money and time. The carboy would have to be held inside the metal container because it would obviously float otherwise. The metal container could also be lined with an immersion cooler.
The venting for a rolling boil might get interesting, thanks for the info on DMS. I'd think starting with just trying to boil a couple gallons in the carboy would be the place to start. Some type of attachment to the carboy may need to be dreamed up?
Hummm... I'm going to have to find some metal and pull out the torch.
TheZymurgist said:Those are completely different conditions. First, I'm betting the glass was pretty thin, so easy to heat quickly and evenly. Second, you didn't have any liquid in or around the glass. Sorry, but you're talking apples to oranges.
kh54s10 said:I am no physicist but 212 is boiling temp. I don't know if wort takes a bit more, but I see foam rise in my pot before it boils. So I still feel the risk of an exploding carboy or spewing hot break is not worth the risk to reinvent this wheel.
Glass windows will actually sag to the bottom. If you cut the glass window, you will see its thicker at the bottom then top.