Jostci said:
Interesting. Does it taste sweet or dry?
American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract
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Interesting. Does it taste sweet or dry?
The beer has a darker color than dfh, but no sweetness. Since the gravity was so low I went ahead and transferred to secondary and dry hopped yesterday. I used wye yeast 1056 smack packs and smacked them the day before I brewed. After only ten minutes the airlock started bubbling aggressively. Could a hyper fermentation combined with a super efficient mash be the reason the gravity is so low, and is it possible to convert crystal to usable sugars? (pardon my ignorance)
Just bottled this last night and have 2 nice samples. Mine actually only went down to 1.016 with Safeale 05 yeast so it is only 7.86% 
I could not believe how good it was before I bottled it, so close to the way I remember DFH60 tasting. Can't wait to pop open one in 3 weeks and compare it to the bottle of the real stuff I have waiting. I can't imagine it being much different, and mine has more alcohol to boot!
Thank Yooper! Great recipe!
I could not believe how good it was before I bottled it, so close to the way I remember DFH60 tasting. Can't wait to pop open one in 3 weeks and compare it to the bottle of the real stuff I have waiting. I can't imagine it being much different, and mine has more alcohol to boot! Thank Yooper! Great recipe!
FireRescueFL
Well-Known Member
Yep, brewed it a couple of times in the same Rubbermaid tun with no problems at all.
---Chris
---Chris
HBrew71
Well-Known Member
I have the same 10gal MT. I make 5 gal batches, including this recipe, without any problem.
mizzourah2006
Well-Known Member
what would you guys suggest if my LHBS did not have the Thomas Fawcett Amber?
Is there a decent substitute? Perhaps 8oz of a crystal 60L, or another malt that gives amber color and a little flavor?
Is there a decent substitute? Perhaps 8oz of a crystal 60L, or another malt that gives amber color and a little flavor?
TF Amber malt is listed at 31-40 Lovibond, so C40 would work. It's really more for color than anything.
I used Biscuit when I did it, and it was fantastic.
mizzourah2006
Well-Known Member
You can make your own Amber malt. Take the 2-row, put it in a cookie sheet in the oven @ 350 degrees for 20-25 minutes.
HBrew71
Well-Known Member
I had the same problem. I used crisp amber malt. Worked out nicely.
BTW rebel brewer has TF amber: http://www.rebelbrewer.com/shoppingcart/products/Fawcett-Amber-Malt-(by-the-ounce).html
ringneck
Member
I brewed up this recipe back in Jan and am moving it into the keg tonight. It was my first all-grain brew and i am thrilled with how it tastes so far (It's not carbed yet)
being my first time with my mash tun I didn't know what to expect in efficiency, so I upped the 2-row to 14lbs. my efficiency turned out at 70% leading to a OG 1.062 -> 1.012 with 2 packages of pacman yeast. (I'll be set up to make a starter next time)
thanks for a great recipe!
being my first time with my mash tun I didn't know what to expect in efficiency, so I upped the 2-row to 14lbs. my efficiency turned out at 70% leading to a OG 1.062 -> 1.012 with 2 packages of pacman yeast. (I'll be set up to make a starter next time)
thanks for a great recipe!
This was my first AG batch, turned out deeeeee-lish. My friends are all impressed. Thanks for the recipe!
bradford0113
Well-Known Member
I brewed the extract version of this recipe this past weekend. The following link is to a video that shows the highlights my my pretty simple extract brewing process. Brew day went just as planned. Let's hope this turns out as well as it should!
[ame="http://vimeo.com/37289176"]http://vimeo.com/37289176[/ame]
[ame="http://vimeo.com/37289176"]http://vimeo.com/37289176[/ame]
What's the Munich for? This recipe has no Munich.
Did they have any light DME? I would hesitate using Munich extract as I think it will change this beer a lot. Munich extracts are usually 40-50% munich malt which is a lot considering the original recipe has none.
I know there is no munich in the recipe. No light lme there at the time. They were getting in a shipment but not for a few days. I thought I would go for it anyway. It will change it a bit but I wasn't sure how much.
bradford0113
Well-Known Member
I too would have considered using light DME. In fact, I just brewed this recipe last weekend using 8.25 lb of DME. I used a 2.5 gallon boil and then topped off in my fermentor to 5.125 gallons and my OG measured 1.070 which is right about where you want to be.
Brewing my second batch of beer this weekend and I might just just have to try this. I love me some 60's... The pacman yeast likes to ferment into the 60 degree range, doesn't it? I am probably going to use the white labs 001 though.
The pacman yeast likes to ferment into the 60 degree range, doesn't it? I am probably going to use the white labs 001 though.periwinkle1239
Well-Known Member
Brewing my second batch of beer this weekend and I might just just have to try this. I love me some 60's...
Yep, I fermented mine low 60's with the pacman and she fermented all the way to 1.013!
Well I ended up doing it a bit differently. I started with the Amarillo and then went with a mix of warrior and simcoe and tossed it on randomly I forgot to check the darn gravity before I pitched the yeast so now it is in the fermenter and all should be well. I will post exactly what I did and how it came out when the time comes but I used extract.
I forgot to check the darn gravity before I pitched the yeast so now it is in the fermenter and all should be well. I will post exactly what I did and how it came out when the time comes but I used extract.Bottled this yesterday...and it was the most painful bottling experience ever! The smell from the brew was so amazing I just wanted to drink it all right then and there! The 3 week waiting for it to bottle condition is going to be torture! But as they say...good things come to those who wait!!
TrubHead
Well-Known Member
Apologies for this dumb question but the percentages are different between the grains and the extract version. The 2 row is 97% and amber is 3%. Is it supposed to be this way?
All Grain:
13 Pounds 2-row (US)
6 ounces Thomas Fawcett amber malt.
Extract:
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
All Grain:
13 Pounds 2-row (US)
6 ounces Thomas Fawcett amber malt.
Extract:
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %
OP
OP
Crystal malt isn't really a sub for the amber malt- it's the closest thing, though.
TrubHead
Well-Known Member
Thanks. So does amber impart a greater flavor (sweeter, etc) than the crystal 40?
TrubHead
Well-Known Member
medusa1066
Well-Known Member
I used Munich. It turned out great. Like a previous poster said, "Put enough Simcoe into anything and I'll drink it"
medusa1066 said:I used Munich. It turned out great. Like a previous poster said, "Put enough Simcoe into anything and I'll drink it"
I just finished fermentation and the sample I took to test the FG tasted awesome! Very excited! The malty Munich balances the hops out very nicely. Not bad for just winging it! And as for the Simcoe. ... 100% agree. The continuous hopping was fun because the Simcoe smelled so good ... my fingers smelled like citrus for awhile afterward. So nice.
Brizzo
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so i did this as my first all grain last night. I have to say that all grain is so much fun to do. I wish I had the confidence to swap a long time ago. I couldn't find amber malt anywhere so I ended up using caraamber instead (roughly 35 lovibond) I also used Columbus instead of Warrior. So since it was the first all grain I obviously ran into some issues, nothing to major though.
I used a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler for the mash tun and I made the cpvc octagon manifold. I pre heated the mash tun and added my strike water. I misread my calculations and added 175 water instead of 180 and my 14 lb grain bill landed at 150. I removed a gallon of water from the mash tun boiled it to 180 and added it back to the mash tun. Once I stirred and mixed it back in the mash settled to about 155 ish. I intended on only mashing for an hour but as I was checking first running i knocked my hydrometer off the table and broke it. SO i had to run down and get a new hydrometer and after all was said and done I mashed for almost 2 hrs.
I heated my sparge water to 180 and began the mash out. The sparge water (about 5 gallons) cooled down to 140 rather quickly so much of my mash was done at 140. I collected almost 8 gallons of wort and began my boil . After the columbus was added, I broke up my hop additions of simcoe and amarillo into 5 minute increments all laid out in little tupperwares. I boiled off a little bit too much and had to top off the fermenter and my gravity clocked in at 1.080 at 60 degrees. I was shooting for 1.072. Would an extended sparge increase my efficiency, i was also draining the mash tun very slowly, probably 2 quarts every 5 minutes or so.
Will the cooler sparge water have any negative impact on the final brew?
I added one vial of Super San Diego but after checking Mr. Malty with a 1.080 beer it said I needed much more yeast, so I threw in a packet of S-05. It is bubbling away very happily. The unfermented wort tasted very good and I can't wait to try it after dry hopping.
I used a 10 gallon rubbermaid cooler for the mash tun and I made the cpvc octagon manifold. I pre heated the mash tun and added my strike water. I misread my calculations and added 175 water instead of 180 and my 14 lb grain bill landed at 150. I removed a gallon of water from the mash tun boiled it to 180 and added it back to the mash tun. Once I stirred and mixed it back in the mash settled to about 155 ish. I intended on only mashing for an hour but as I was checking first running i knocked my hydrometer off the table and broke it. SO i had to run down and get a new hydrometer and after all was said and done I mashed for almost 2 hrs.
I heated my sparge water to 180 and began the mash out. The sparge water (about 5 gallons) cooled down to 140 rather quickly so much of my mash was done at 140. I collected almost 8 gallons of wort and began my boil . After the columbus was added, I broke up my hop additions of simcoe and amarillo into 5 minute increments all laid out in little tupperwares. I boiled off a little bit too much and had to top off the fermenter and my gravity clocked in at 1.080 at 60 degrees. I was shooting for 1.072. Would an extended sparge increase my efficiency, i was also draining the mash tun very slowly, probably 2 quarts every 5 minutes or so.
Will the cooler sparge water have any negative impact on the final brew?
I added one vial of Super San Diego but after checking Mr. Malty with a 1.080 beer it said I needed much more yeast, so I threw in a packet of S-05. It is bubbling away very happily. The unfermented wort tasted very good and I can't wait to try it after dry hopping.
HBrew71
Well-Known Member
Congrats on first AG!
I am no expert but ...
180 is too high for sparge. You will probably end up with some tanins in your wort.
You probably should have made Yeast starter, as this recipe suggested, you would have avoided having to use the additional S-05 pack. I am learning that yeaste starter is a good idea for any liquid yeast.
No big deal. I am sure your beer will turn out fine.
I am no expert but ...
180 is too high for sparge. You will probably end up with some tanins in your wort.
You probably should have made Yeast starter, as this recipe suggested, you would have avoided having to use the additional S-05 pack. I am learning that yeaste starter is a good idea for any liquid yeast.
No big deal. I am sure your beer will turn out fine.
Brizzo
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I should have clarified that a little bit, i heated my sparge wqater to 180 and transfered it into a bottling bucket. I think by the time i began my sparge the water had cooled to 170 or under. I think i read in papazian somewhere that he recommended heating to 180 and just the natural transfering and cooling of the bucket will bring the water to 160 ish for sparging. My water stayed at 140 for most of the sparge which I am not sure how that will affect my final beer.
I typically do use a yeast starter but I did'nt think that I would reach 1.080 and the yeast said just pitch it in beer 1.070 and under. looking back i should have made one because i would of liked to have harvested the super san diego since it is much more expensive then the s 05. oh well, next time i will do things differently
and why does i pad spelling auto correct work sometimes and not others. grr
I typically do use a yeast starter but I did'nt think that I would reach 1.080 and the yeast said just pitch it in beer 1.070 and under. looking back i should have made one because i would of liked to have harvested the super san diego since it is much more expensive then the s 05. oh well, next time i will do things differently
and why does i pad spelling auto correct work sometimes and not others. grr
OP
OP
A cooler sparge won't impact the beer at all- I've seen some articles about cold water sparge and it works fine. The only reason to mash out is to denature the enzymes and to help keep the sugars more soluble. But it's not necessary.
A starter is important for a beer anytime the gravity is over 1.040 or so, even though it says "pitchable" it really isn't.
HBrew71
Well-Known Member
Oh cool! Let us know how it turns out.
I made this 5 weeks ago and used 1# of the TF Amber malt - I wanted the beer's maltiness to be somewhere in between the 60 and 90.
It's been on gas 2 weeks and is definitely showing signs of promise - not quite carbed up all the way though and it's really hard for me to judge hoppy beers without proper carbonation. Amazing how the combo of Simcoe & Amarillo just screams DFH when you smell and taste it.
I'm also keg-hopping for the first time - 1oz each of Simcoe and Amarillo - still a little too grassy/vegetal for me at this point, I think the hop oils/juices need more time to meld with the beer. But I believe that is normal when dry/keg-hopping at the colder serving temps - takes longer to reach the sweet spot. The trade-off being you can leave them in there much longer. At least that's what I've read around here.....
It's been on gas 2 weeks and is definitely showing signs of promise - not quite carbed up all the way though and it's really hard for me to judge hoppy beers without proper carbonation. Amazing how the combo of Simcoe & Amarillo just screams DFH when you smell and taste it.
I'm also keg-hopping for the first time - 1oz each of Simcoe and Amarillo - still a little too grassy/vegetal for me at this point, I think the hop oils/juices need more time to meld with the beer. But I believe that is normal when dry/keg-hopping at the colder serving temps - takes longer to reach the sweet spot. The trade-off being you can leave them in there much longer. At least that's what I've read around here.....
ScottSingleton
Well-Known Member
so I've got a dumb noob HBT question here....
is the recipe listed on page 1 from Yooper (OP) the latest revision? I was reading backwards through here and I'm seeing coloring/aroma comparisons, etc. but with 140 pages of posts I can't really tell if the consensus is that the first recipe is still the most valid or has Yooper or others posted recipes within these 140 pages that are closer?
-S
is the recipe listed on page 1 from Yooper (OP) the latest revision? I was reading backwards through here and I'm seeing coloring/aroma comparisons, etc. but with 140 pages of posts I can't really tell if the consensus is that the first recipe is still the most valid or has Yooper or others posted recipes within these 140 pages that are closer?
-S
