• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I just replied to @Konadog but yeah we haven't had a chance to get them on the website. If you want one just shoot me a PM I'll take care of you.

Cheers
Jay

Mine just arrived today. It's exactly what I need for my system. Thanks again Jay & Norcal!
 
A small stainless coil that could be threaded (or have a QD or TC connection) with some sort of “surround” so you could draw off samples from a boil kettle or mash tun and have them cooled for hydrometer readings, etc immediately after drawing.

Think- a small pot, with a small stainless coil inside it, one end of the coil connects to whatever style connection you have on a kettle / MLT, the other end comes out of the pot to fill a container for hydrometer or pH meter. You could fill the pot with ice water to chill the sample while collecting. The whole thing would be all connected together, compact and light so it could quickly be connected / disconnected from the kettle as necessary.
 
A small stainless coil that could be threaded (or have a QD or TC connection) with some sort of “surround” so you could draw off samples from a boil kettle or mash tun and have them cooled for hydrometer readings, etc immediately after drawing.

Think- a small pot, with a small stainless coil inside it, one end of the coil connects to whatever style connection you have on a kettle / MLT, the other end comes out of the pot to fill a container for hydrometer or pH meter. You could fill the pot with ice water to chill the sample while collecting. The whole thing would be all connected together, compact and light so it could quickly be connected / disconnected from the kettle as necessary.


Do you use a pump / whirlpool / counterflow chiller perhaps?

If so, a tap off the whirlpool supply seems it would suffice.......

Mash tun sample.........Call me crazy, but I don't see a big rush to cool down on that one....:D

BUT, there's "no kill like overkill" !
 
Do you use a pump / whirlpool / counterflow chiller perhaps?

If so, a tap off the whirlpool supply seems it would suffice.......

Mash tun sample.........Call me crazy, but I don't see a big rush to cool down on that one....:D

BUT, there's "no kill like overkill" !

No kill like overkill indeed! Good thoughts on the tap off the whirlpool supply. Typically I grab a hydrometer sample between mash and boil, so you’re right about no need to chill quickly, I usually just let it chill on it’s own and grab the hydrometer reading later.

The only time I wished I had a “fast sample” is when I’m fly sparging and don’t want to stop early or run too long. I’m sure part of that comes with experience, but I have always been like “if only there was some device to draw a sample quickly and have whatever reading within moments- I.e cooled to required temp”.
 
I just replied to @Konadog but yeah we haven't had a chance to get them on the website. If you want one just shoot me a PM I'll take care of you.

Cheers
Jay

Thanks again Jay, now I can adjust it to any length to match my mash depth.

2019-02-23 15.07.49.jpg
2019-02-23 15.07.58.jpg
 
i need the ultimate sanke cross fermenter kit AS PICTURED in the video (fully assembled with ball valves and all) WITH a spunding valve. (gas ball lock)
I've purchased two of the previous versions and never used them. My mistake. Theyre gonna hit the trash bin as soon as i get what i actually needed in the first place. ugh, i HATE waste
 
Item request: Brew bucket lid, Airlock Out/ Ball lock In, CO2 adapter fitting

I would like to have a fitting that attaches to the current brew bucket lid hole (or drilled out to attached this new adapter) that can take a airlock and switch to a ball lock post to hook up CO2 during cold crash. All this without removing the lid.

I thought about drilling a new hole (2nd hole in addition to airlock hole) and adding a ball lock post bulkhead but concerned plugging the stopper hole could open under light pressure while cold crashing (stopper is shrinking). The ideal solution can use a single lid hole that switched from stopper/airlock to ball lock post. I dont want the ball lock post on all the time as part of the solution because 2 out of 10 fermentations i have to have a blow off hose and i dont want a poppet valve getting in the way/clogging. Plus cleanup in that case is a mess.

Perhaps something involving a male cam lock on the lid could be the solution with female camlock elbow to male gas ball lock adapter? Just thought of this as i was typing.

Thoughts? anyone else interested in this?
 
i need the ultimate sanke cross fermenter kit AS PICTURED in the video (fully assembled with ball valves and all) WITH a spunding valve. (gas ball lock)
I've purchased two of the previous versions and never used them. My mistake. Theyre gonna hit the trash bin as soon as i get what i actually needed in the first place. ugh, i HATE waste
PM inbound

Cheers
Jay
 
Item request: Brew bucket lid, Airlock Out/ Ball lock In, CO2 adapter fitting

I would like to have a fitting that attaches to the current brew bucket lid hole (or drilled out to attached this new adapter) that can take a airlock and switch to a ball lock post to hook up CO2 during cold crash. All this without removing the lid.

I thought about drilling a new hole (2nd hole in addition to airlock hole) and adding a ball lock post bulkhead but concerned plugging the stopper hole could open under light pressure while cold crashing (stopper is shrinking). The ideal solution can use a single lid hole that switched from stopper/airlock to ball lock post. I dont want the ball lock post on all the time as part of the solution because 2 out of 10 fermentations i have to have a blow off hose and i dont want a poppet valve getting in the way/clogging. Plus cleanup in that case is a mess.

Perhaps something involving a male cam lock on the lid could be the solution with female camlock elbow to male gas ball lock adapter? Just thought of this as i was typing.

Thoughts? anyone else interested in this?

I think what you are wanting is totally doable with stock off the shelf hardware using camlock or QD fittings and just adapt it all for quick swap.

Cheers
Jay
 
PM inbound

Cheers
Jay
i see it's back in stock on your site now.
is there any way to actually order EXACTLY what you have in the video (ball valves, camlock, and all) without pieceing it together myself?
i wanna order exactly what you have in the video fully assembled and throw the rest of the stuff i have in the trash.
 
i see it's back in stock on your site now.
is there any way to actually order EXACTLY what you have in the video (ball valves, camlock, and all) without pieceing it together myself?
i wanna order exactly what you have in the video fully assembled and throw the rest of the stuff i have in the trash.
You bet. I understand now. You bought Brand X and want to toss it out and get my system..GOTCHA! Yeah let me check out the video again and I'll shoot you a PM here in a bit with a order sheet. Disregard my earlier PM..

Cheers
Jay
 
Jay - how about a lid mounted CIP ball for cleaning out boil kettles after a brew day? I’ve got a BrewEasy and I *hate* cleaning it after a boil and would love to use a cip ball.
 
So I did some redneck engineering on my own and came up with what I need using 304 stainless tube off amazon and hacking up my SSbrewtech dip tube. All I need is it welded in the same position that it's mocked up with tape :) If anyone out there welds, let me know too.

@Jaybird

20190502_131544.jpg 20190502_131553.jpg
 
Last edited:
Would love to discuss an adapter that allows me to put a thermowell through the "out" port of a corny keg. Something like round bar with one end tapped for a corny keg fitting and tapped for 1/2" FPT in the other and drilled to allow a thermowell to pass through. I have an inkbird ITC-310 and the thermowell needs to accommodate that.
 
So I did some redneck engineering on my own and came up with what I need using 304 stainless tube off amazon and hacking up my SSbrewtech dip tube. All I need is it welded in the same position that it's mocked up with tape :) If anyone out there welds, let me know too.

@Jaybird

View attachment 625066 View attachment 625067
Lets see this installed now that I made you a custom one from scratch :)

Cheers
Jay
 
Jay - how about a lid mounted CIP ball for cleaning out boil kettles after a brew day? I’ve got a BrewEasy and I *hate* cleaning it after a boil and would love to use a cip ball.
Does your lid seal? That is 1 of the issues with CIP is the vessel you are in needs to be able to seal up because the CIP will spray UP as well as around....

If so shoot me a PM I can help for sure. I have a GREAT little MINI spray ball I am using on my conical and LOVE LOVE LOVE IT!

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Clean-in-Place-Spray-Ball-Mini-Half-Inch-MNPT.html


Cheers
Jay
 
Uhhhhh yeah boatloads of them. :)

Whatcha need?

Cheers
Jay

I have a heating element, temp probe and dip tube with Hop Stopper 2.0 in the middle in 15 gallon Spike kettle. So I think I'd just need 3 openings with nothing in the middle for the element and Hop Stopper 2.0
 
I have a heating element, temp probe and dip tube with Hop Stopper 2.0 in the middle in 15 gallon Spike kettle. So I think I'd just need 3 openings with nothing in the middle for the element and Hop Stopper 2.0

That might not be a one-off if you do it right. ;) Same kettle but I'm not using the hop stopper. I would need it to clear two of the Spike dip tubes (one for wort out, one turned 90 degrees. Sounds like basically you need your standard Spike 15 false bottom with a tall support ring set in maybe 1-1/2" that has openings every 60 degrees for elements, probes, etc.
 
Does your lid seal? That is 1 of the issues with CIP is the vessel you are in needs to be able to seal up because the CIP will spray UP as well as around....

I was worried about this so I used a spiral cone spray nozzle for this and it works great.
 
Back
Top