Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.

[Beerwildered]

Jay - how about a lid mounted CIP ball for cleaning out boil kettles after a brew day? I’ve got a BrewEasy and I *hate* cleaning it after a boil and would love to use a cip ball.

 

[bigdawg86]

So I did some redneck engineering on my own and came up with what I need using 304 stainless tube off amazon and hacking up my SSbrewtech dip tube. All I need is it welded in the same position that it's mocked up with tape If anyone out there welds, let me know too.

@Jaybird

 

[ProblemChild]

Would love to discuss an adapter that allows me to put a thermowell through the "out" port of a corny keg. Something like round bar with one end tapped for a corny keg fitting and tapped for 1/2" FPT in the other and drilled to allow a thermowell to pass through. I have an inkbird ITC-310 and the thermowell needs to accommodate that.

 

[h22lude]

Hey Jay, do you make custom false bottoms?

 

[Jaybird]

So I did some redneck engineering on my own and came up with what I need using 304 stainless tube off amazon and hacking up my SSbrewtech dip tube. All I need is it welded in the same position that it's mocked up with tape If anyone out there welds, let me know too.

@Jaybird

View attachment 625066 View attachment 625067

Lets see this installed now that I made you a custom one from scratch

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Hey Jay, do you make custom false bottoms?

Uhhhhh yeah boatloads of them.

Whatcha need?

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Jay - how about a lid mounted CIP ball for cleaning out boil kettles after a brew day? I’ve got a BrewEasy and I *hate* cleaning it after a boil and would love to use a cip ball.

Does your lid seal? That is 1 of the issues with CIP is the vessel you are in needs to be able to seal up because the CIP will spray UP as well as around....

If so shoot me a PM I can help for sure. I have a GREAT little MINI spray ball I am using on my conical and LOVE LOVE LOVE IT!

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Clean-in-Place-Spray-Ball-Mini-Half-Inch-MNPT.html


Cheers
Jay

 

[h22lude]

Uhhhhh yeah boatloads of them.

Whatcha need?

Cheers
Jay

I have a heating element, temp probe and dip tube with Hop Stopper 2.0 in the middle in 15 gallon Spike kettle. So I think I'd just need 3 openings with nothing in the middle for the element and Hop Stopper 2.0

 

[matt_m]

I have a heating element, temp probe and dip tube with Hop Stopper 2.0 in the middle in 15 gallon Spike kettle. So I think I'd just need 3 openings with nothing in the middle for the element and Hop Stopper 2.0

That might not be a one-off if you do it right. Same kettle but I'm not using the hop stopper. I would need it to clear two of the Spike dip tubes (one for wort out, one turned 90 degrees. Sounds like basically you need your standard Spike 15 false bottom with a tall support ring set in maybe 1-1/2" that has openings every 60 degrees for elements, probes, etc.

 

[matt_m]

Does your lid seal? That is 1 of the issues with CIP is the vessel you are in needs to be able to seal up because the CIP will spray UP as well as around....

I was worried about this so I used a spiral cone spray nozzle for this and it works great.

 

[h22lude]

That might not be a one-off if you do it right. Same kettle but I'm not using the hop stopper. I would need it to clear two of the Spike dip tubes (one for wort out, one turned 90 degrees. Sounds like basically you need your standard Spike 15 false bottom with a tall support ring set in maybe 1-1/2" that has openings every 60 degrees for elements, probes, etc.

My Spike kettle was custom made so the ports aren't were the standard ports are.

 

[Jaybird]

I have a heating element, temp probe and dip tube with Hop Stopper 2.0 in the middle in 15 gallon Spike kettle. So I think I'd just need 3 openings with nothing in the middle for the element and Hop Stopper 2.0

Shoot me a picture. I build em all day long.

Cheers
Jay

 

[h22lude]

Shoot me a picture. I build em all day long.

Cheers
Jay

Hey Jay, sorry for the delayed response. I had to go a different route. The filter I had wasn't working like I wanted so I gave up on it and went back to my old set up.

I do have another piece that I need. Basically just a 2.5" long corny keg gas dip tube. I was going to buy beer out dip tubes and cut them but I just realized they have ridges to keep the dip tube from spinning.

 

[brewbama]

Jaybird: How much would a weldless triclover removable inspection window cost to install in the lid of a SS BrewBucket (including a bit to cut the hole)? I’ve seen inspection glass on one site, weldless fitting on another, cutter bit from a box store, etc, but no all in one, open the box and everything you need is right there, kit. I would like to be able to remove the glass, pitch yeast, reinstall it, see fermentation progression, krausen fall, etc. Not being able to see is the only drawback with this fermenter IMO.

 

[jimmayhugh]

Hey Jaybird,
I'd be interested in a lyne arm that has a 3" main tube rather than your normal 2" piece. Is that doable?

 

[Jaybird]

Jaybird: How much would a weldless triclover removable inspection window cost to install in the lid of a SS BrewBucket (including a bit to cut the hole)? I’ve seen inspection glass on one site, weldless fitting on another, cutter bit from a box store, etc, but no all in one, open the box and everything you need is right there, kit. I would like to be able to remove the glass, pitch yeast, reinstall it, see fermentation progression, krausen fall, etc. Not being able to see is the only drawback with this fermenter IMO.

Not something I would do man sorry. The material SS uses is WAY TO THIN to be cutting and welding on without it warping. If they used better material it wouldn't be a problem. I have tried it in the past and just cant do it.

Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Hey Jaybird,
I'd be interested in a lyne arm that has a 3" main tube rather than your normal 2" piece. Is that doable?

Email was sent a few days ago Jim.

Cheers
Jay

 

[brewbama]

Not something I would do man sorry. The material SS uses is WAY TO THIN to be cutting and welding on without it warping. If they used better material it wouldn't be a problem. I have tried it in the past and just cant do it.

Jay

Well.... crap! LOL. Thanks for the effort!

 

[hafmpty]

I ferment in 5-gallon ball-lock corny kegs. I'm trying to prevent oxygen ingress via the silicone tubing I use for a blow-off. I was wondering if you could make something that could be threaded into the pressure relief valve threads (i.e., take the pressure relief valve out & thread this item in) or potentially used with a ball lock connection that connects to the ball lock connector via compression nut.

Also, wondering if there is any kind of triclamp fitting that could welded to the top of a typical corny keg lid? I know you do thermowells. But if I was able to add hops/gelatin/etc. without needing to take the lid completely off, that would be awesome. Would a 3/4" or 1" triclamp fit? I'm thinking that if the pressure relief valve was removed, that space could be used for a triclamp fitting and then a custom triclamp cap w/ built in pressure relief valve could be used in its place.

Let me know. Thanks!

 

[MaxStout]

Not so much a "can you make?" but rather, a "do you have?" question. I have been looking for a stainless steel 90 degree elbow with 1/2" barbs on both ends. There are plenty around, but they're made from brass, like shown below. I'm looking for stainless. Have anything like that? I just need 2 of them.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

@MaxStout

https://www.mcmaster.com/stainless-steel-barbed-hose-fittings

 

[MaxStout]

@MaxStout

https://www.mcmaster.com/stainless-steel-barbed-hose-fittings

They only have a 1/4" elbow. There's a 1/2" tee connector, I could probably plug one of the barb ends.

 

[jimmayhugh]

DIY... A little pricey, but gets the job done, especially if you silver-solder them.
https://www.mcmaster.com/5361K42
https://www.mcmaster.com/4452K414

 

[Stealthcruiser]

https://www.mcmaster.com/5670K19


Edit: It's in there @MaxStout

 

[jimmayhugh]

https://www.mcmaster.com/5670K19


Edit: It's in there @MaxStout

Your search-fu is obviously stronger than mine

 

[Stealthcruiser]

Your search-fu is obviously stronger than mine

( I'll take lucky over good any day........ )

 

[TexasWine]

Hey Jay. Got an interesting one for ya. I'm looking for a MLT agitator/rake that I can mount to a 4" TC connection in the center of my MLT lid (lid is clamped securely to the MLT). MLT is 15.5" dia and 24.5" ht from the lip of the MLT to the bottom (not including 4" TC connection).

I've found something similar to what I'm looking for (HERE), but it isn't quite what I need. I don't want to remove the lid to attach the agitator, meaning the paddles will need to fold in some manner so they can be inserted through the 4" TC flange into the MLT.

I had thought maybe something like one of your brewing paddles with the shaft passing through a sealed bearing in a TC cap. It will need to be able to withstand some pressure without leaking, say about 10 psig max, because my MLT will be sealed and pressurized with CO2. My plan is to use a MakerMotor (LINK) to turn it, but I still need to think of a solution for mounting the motor. If push comes to shove, I could probably rig something up using silver soldering.

I don't need the rakes to have a particular pitch or design, as long as they reach as much of the MLT as is feasible and move the mash around enough to break up dough balls. Spitballing ideas here. What about a shaft outfitted with four rakes, oriented at 90 degrees apart, spaced at 4" starting at the bottom. The individual rakes would be similar to your paddles (false bottom material welded to a rod), with dimensions of 2" wide x 6" long. Pins or bolts would hold the rakes loosely to the main rotating shaft, allowing for the rakes to fold up to be inserted into the MLT. Stops would be welded to the shaft to keep the rakes horizontal.

Obviously to remove the agitator I would need to remove the lid and fold the rakes back into the upright position. But that's fine with me because the mash will be done at that point.

I've attached a picture that should help explain what's in my head. Let me know what you think. Doable, crazy, cost prohibitive?

 

[TexasWine]

Hey Jay. Got an interesting one for ya. I'm looking for a MLT agitator/rake that I can mount to a 4" TC connection in the center of my MLT lid (lid is clamped securely to the MLT). MLT is 15.5" dia and 24.5" ht from the lip of the MLT to the bottom (not including 4" TC connection).

I've found something similar to what I'm looking for (HERE), but it isn't quite what I need. I don't want to remove the lid to attach the agitator, meaning the paddles will need to fold in some manner so they can be inserted through the 4" TC flange into the MLT.

I had thought maybe something like one of your brewing paddles with the shaft passing through a sealed bearing in a TC cap. It will need to be able to withstand some pressure without leaking, say about 10 psig max, because my MLT will be sealed and pressurized with CO2. My plan is to use a MakerMotor (LINK) to turn it, but I still need to think of a solution for mounting the motor. If push comes to shove, I could probably rig something up using silver soldering.

I don't need the rakes to have a particular pitch or design, as long as they reach as much of the MLT as is feasible and move the mash around enough to break up dough balls. Spitballing ideas here. What about a shaft outfitted with four rakes, oriented at 90 degrees apart, spaced at 4" starting at the bottom. The individual rakes would be similar to your paddles (false bottom material welded to a rod), with dimensions of 2" wide x 6" long. Pins or bolts would hold the rakes loosely to the main rotating shaft, allowing for the rakes to fold up to be inserted into the MLT. Stops would be welded to the shaft to keep the rakes horizontal.

Obviously to remove the agitator I would need to remove the lid and fold the rakes back into the upright position. But that's fine with me because the mash will be done at that point.

I've attached a picture that should help explain what's in my head. Let me know what you think. Doable, crazy, cost prohibitive?

Bumping this.

 

[hezagenius]

Hey @Jaybird
Got a question about your 1.5" TC whirlpool arms on your site
It says the standard overall length with default options is 11.75". Is that the vertical drop from centerline of the TC fitting to the centerline of the outlet? Or is it the length of the tubing before bending?

Do you know the length of the vertical drop from TC centerline to outlet centerline if it isn't 11.75"?

Thanks

 

[TexasWine]

Bumping this.

Anybody heard from Jay lately??

 

[Jaybird]

Sorry guys for not getting back to this. We have been absolutely slammed since the move to the new facility. If I ever don't respond here just reach out to me directly via phone or email. I will spend more time here. Again sorry for falling off the planet for a bit. I believe I have responded to everyone if I missed you for whatever reason just reach out. Thank you @TexasWine for the bump.

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Hey @Jaybird
Got a question about your 1.5" TC whirlpool arms on your site
It says the standard overall length with default options is 11.75". Is that the vertical drop from centerline of the TC fitting to the centerline of the outlet? Or is it the length of the tubing before bending?

Do you know the length of the vertical drop from TC centerline to outlet centerline if it isn't 11.75"?

Thanks

The stock 10" is 10" from Back of bend to back of bend. That would put CL at about 9.5"

What length are you needing?

Cheers
Jay

 

[Jaybird]

Hey Jay. Got an interesting one for ya. I'm looking for a MLT agitator/rake that I can mount to a 4" TC connection in the center of my MLT lid (lid is clamped securely to the MLT). MLT is 15.5" dia and 24.5" ht from the lip of the MLT to the bottom (not including 4" TC connection).

I've found something similar to what I'm looking for (HERE), but it isn't quite what I need. I don't want to remove the lid to attach the agitator, meaning the paddles will need to fold in some manner so they can be inserted through the 4" TC flange into the MLT.

I had thought maybe something like one of your brewing paddles with the shaft passing through a sealed bearing in a TC cap. It will need to be able to withstand some pressure without leaking, say about 10 psig max, because my MLT will be sealed and pressurized with CO2. My plan is to use a MakerMotor (LINK) to turn it, but I still need to think of a solution for mounting the motor. If push comes to shove, I could probably rig something up using silver soldering.

I don't need the rakes to have a particular pitch or design, as long as they reach as much of the MLT as is feasible and move the mash around enough to break up dough balls. Spitballing ideas here. What about a shaft outfitted with four rakes, oriented at 90 degrees apart, spaced at 4" starting at the bottom. The individual rakes would be similar to your paddles (false bottom material welded to a rod), with dimensions of 2" wide x 6" long. Pins or bolts would hold the rakes loosely to the main rotating shaft, allowing for the rakes to fold up to be inserted into the MLT. Stops would be welded to the shaft to keep the rakes horizontal.

Obviously to remove the agitator I would need to remove the lid and fold the rakes back into the upright position. But that's fine with me because the mash will be done at that point.

I've attached a picture that should help explain what's in my head. Let me know what you think. Doable, crazy, cost prohibitive?

I think totally doable. Where I can help is with the paddle. As for the bearing and the pressure I wouldn't be able to assist there as I think it would be way cost prohibitive to have me develop that part of it for you. But the paddle and connection to your motor. Totally doable. As cor cost I really think I would do it on a time and material basis. Once you have everything else designed and ideas on the bearing for the cap shoot me a PM I know we can do what you want with the paddle.

Cheers
Jay

 

[NewJersey]

I need a 1.5" tri clamp diptube for an SS Brewtech 10 gallon ekettle.
I want to use a butterfly valve and the included SS trub dam pickup tube now has nothing to press into.

 

[Jaybird]

I need a 1.5" tri clamp diptube for an SS Brewtech 10 gallon ekettle.
I want to use a butterfly valve and the included SS trub dam pickup tube now has nothing to press into.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Dip-Tube-Generation-2-Bru-Gear.html

Like this?

Keep me posted

Cheers
Jay

 

[NewJersey]

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-Dip-Tube-Generation-2-Bru-Gear.html

Like this?

Keep me posted

Cheers
Jay

Like that. I'm not sure of the correct length tho

 

[Jaybird]

Like that. I'm not sure of the correct length tho

total customization specifically for what you need, directly off the site. Super simple.

Let me know if I can help at all.

Cheers
Jay

 

[TexasWine]

I think totally doable. Where I can help is with the paddle. As for the bearing and the pressure I wouldn't be able to assist there as I think it would be way cost prohibitive to have me develop that part of it for you. But the paddle and connection to your motor. Totally doable. As cor cost I really think I would do it on a time and material basis. Once you have everything else designed and ideas on the bearing for the cap shoot me a PM I know we can do what you want with the paddle.

Cheers
Jay

It's actually the bearing where I'm having the most problems [emoji1787]

Another idea. 1/2" compression fitting attached to a 4" triclamp end cap. Replace the ferrules in the compression with a flexible o-ring (silicon?). 1/2" shaft passes through the compression fitting, which should be able to withstand a little pressure, similar to the fermenting tees you sell. Lubricate the o-ring with keg lube before every use.

Here's the motor I want to use.
https://makermotor.com/pn01007brkt-50-rpm-12v-dc-gear-motor-with-bracket/

Shaft would need to accept a keyed coupling for the motor. Also need to figure out some way to mount the motor. Maybe tack weld four bolts to the end cap to support the mounting bracket?

Should work, right? Even if I have to replace the o-ring every brew day, that's pennies.

If we can get this figured out, I know 2-3 other folks that are probably interested in getting one as well. Brewery automation can be a curse sometimes.

 

[Jaybird]

It's actually the bearing where I'm having the most problems [emoji1787]

Another idea. 1/2" compression fitting attached to a 4" triclamp end cap. Replace the ferrules in the compression with a flexible o-ring (silicon?). 1/2" shaft passes through the compression fitting, which should be able to withstand a little pressure, similar to the fermenting tees you sell. Lubricate the o-ring with keg lube before every use.

Here's the motor I want to use.
https://makermotor.com/pn01007brkt-50-rpm-12v-dc-gear-motor-with-bracket/

Shaft would need to accept a keyed coupling for the motor. Also need to figure out some way to mount the motor. Maybe tack weld four bolts to the end cap to support the mounting bracket?

Should work, right? Even if I have to replace the o-ring every brew day, that's pennies.

If we can get this figured out, I know 2-3 other folks that are probably interested in getting one as well. Brewery automation can be a curse sometimes.

Delrin sleeve may be the ticket if you want to go that route. Check these little buggers out.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Delrin-Half-Inch-Compression-Sleeve.html

These may be the ticket. How fast do you think you would be spinning?

Cheers
Jay

 

[TexasWine]

Delrin sleeve may be the ticket if you want to go that route. Check these little buggers out.

https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Delrin-Half-Inch-Compression-Sleeve.html

These may be the ticket. How fast do you think you would be spinning?

Cheers
Jay

50 rpm max. I think this is a winner.

Let me do some more thinking on the rake design. Foresee any issues with the shaft coupling to the Makermotor linked above?