Do you need a 1 off Stainless part built for your system? Let's discuss it.

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Chad_C

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Jay, I may need one of these sparge arms as well, but without the bend in the arm. I have a bulkhead for a cooler lid, but need to have the arm “hang” from the center of the lid. 1/2” diam.
 

Rodent

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Hi @Jaybird - top of the New Year to ya!

I'm in need of 2ea 1.5" x 1.375" long TC spools; tube ID needs to be 1.304" or larger

Sadly for my use case, a standard 1" long spool is .25" too short, and a 2" spool is too long for a fitting to fit thru and into my conical.

Is something like this doable? Cost?
 
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Jay, I may need one of these sparge arms as well, but without the bend in the arm. I have a bulkhead for a cooler lid, but need to have the arm “hang” from the center of the lid. 1/2” diam.
Shoot me a PM and lets discuss your project in detail.

Cheers
Jay
 
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Jaybird
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Jay,
I need 2 slotted (or other recommendation) 304 or 316 stainless pieces for my condensate hood. Need these to catch the moisture and direct the liquid to the hood gutter. Need 2 pieces each 26 inches long x 16 inches high. Available?
Are you talking FLAT or round?

Shoot me a PM with a little hand sketch and lets check it out.

Cheers
Jay
 
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Jaybird
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Hi @Jaybird - top of the New Year to ya!

I'm in need of 2ea 1.5" x 1.375" long TC spools; tube ID needs to be 1.304" or larger

Sadly for my use case, a standard 1" long spool is .25" too short, and a 2" spool is too long for a fitting to fit thru and into my conical.

Is something like this doable? Cost?
Absolutely. What is your +- tolerance in the length?

Cheers
Jay
 
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Jaybird
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Hey Jay,

Any chance of making this out of stainless?View attachment 607621
Man if I thought I could sell a boatload of them I would totally dive into that. If you want just 1 and want me to ask my CNC guy what it would cost to make it I am happy to do that. That said I can assure you its well into the $150+ range for a 1 off for that. TOTALLY DOABLE though.

Cheers
Jay
 
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Now that said I do make one "sort of" that you can use in its place. Give me a few min I'll post up a pict if I can.

Cheers
Jay
 
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I'm probably blind, but do you have a link? I can' find them.
Sorry you guys. It's a part we have been selling in the actual walk in store..LOL My web guy has not had a chance to add them to the web store. Go figure! If you want one just shoot me a PM I'll take care of you.

Jay
 

microbusbrewery

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Like this. We have been selling them in store for $29.99

Cheers
Jay
What's the tubing size on this? Also, what's the size of the gap between the plates? I use a siphon sprayer to recirculate on my HERMS system, so I need the gap at least big enough so that any husks that get past the FB won't clog the sprayer.
 
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What's the tubing size on this? Also, what's the size of the gap between the plates? I use a siphon sprayer to recirculate on my HERMS system, so I need the gap at least big enough so that any husks that get past the FB won't clog the sprayer.
Gap is right at 1/4" so that shouldn't be a problem. Tubing is our 1/2" .035

Cheers
Jay
 

Beardless

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A small stainless coil that could be threaded (or have a QD or TC connection) with some sort of “surround” so you could draw off samples from a boil kettle or mash tun and have them cooled for hydrometer readings, etc immediately after drawing.

Think- a small pot, with a small stainless coil inside it, one end of the coil connects to whatever style connection you have on a kettle / MLT, the other end comes out of the pot to fill a container for hydrometer or pH meter. You could fill the pot with ice water to chill the sample while collecting. The whole thing would be all connected together, compact and light so it could quickly be connected / disconnected from the kettle as necessary.
 

Stealthcruiser

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A small stainless coil that could be threaded (or have a QD or TC connection) with some sort of “surround” so you could draw off samples from a boil kettle or mash tun and have them cooled for hydrometer readings, etc immediately after drawing.

Think- a small pot, with a small stainless coil inside it, one end of the coil connects to whatever style connection you have on a kettle / MLT, the other end comes out of the pot to fill a container for hydrometer or pH meter. You could fill the pot with ice water to chill the sample while collecting. The whole thing would be all connected together, compact and light so it could quickly be connected / disconnected from the kettle as necessary.

Do you use a pump / whirlpool / counterflow chiller perhaps?

If so, a tap off the whirlpool supply seems it would suffice.......

Mash tun sample.........Call me crazy, but I don't see a big rush to cool down on that one....:D

BUT, there's "no kill like overkill" !
 

Beardless

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Do you use a pump / whirlpool / counterflow chiller perhaps?

If so, a tap off the whirlpool supply seems it would suffice.......

Mash tun sample.........Call me crazy, but I don't see a big rush to cool down on that one....:D

BUT, there's "no kill like overkill" !
No kill like overkill indeed! Good thoughts on the tap off the whirlpool supply. Typically I grab a hydrometer sample between mash and boil, so you’re right about no need to chill quickly, I usually just let it chill on it’s own and grab the hydrometer reading later.

The only time I wished I had a “fast sample” is when I’m fly sparging and don’t want to stop early or run too long. I’m sure part of that comes with experience, but I have always been like “if only there was some device to draw a sample quickly and have whatever reading within moments- I.e cooled to required temp”.
 

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i need the ultimate sanke cross fermenter kit AS PICTURED in the video (fully assembled with ball valves and all) WITH a spunding valve. (gas ball lock)
I've purchased two of the previous versions and never used them. My mistake. Theyre gonna hit the trash bin as soon as i get what i actually needed in the first place. ugh, i HATE waste
 

Aristoi

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Item request: Brew bucket lid, Airlock Out/ Ball lock In, CO2 adapter fitting

I would like to have a fitting that attaches to the current brew bucket lid hole (or drilled out to attached this new adapter) that can take a airlock and switch to a ball lock post to hook up CO2 during cold crash. All this without removing the lid.

I thought about drilling a new hole (2nd hole in addition to airlock hole) and adding a ball lock post bulkhead but concerned plugging the stopper hole could open under light pressure while cold crashing (stopper is shrinking). The ideal solution can use a single lid hole that switched from stopper/airlock to ball lock post. I dont want the ball lock post on all the time as part of the solution because 2 out of 10 fermentations i have to have a blow off hose and i dont want a poppet valve getting in the way/clogging. Plus cleanup in that case is a mess.

Perhaps something involving a male cam lock on the lid could be the solution with female camlock elbow to male gas ball lock adapter? Just thought of this as i was typing.

Thoughts? anyone else interested in this?
 
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i need the ultimate sanke cross fermenter kit AS PICTURED in the video (fully assembled with ball valves and all) WITH a spunding valve. (gas ball lock)
I've purchased two of the previous versions and never used them. My mistake. Theyre gonna hit the trash bin as soon as i get what i actually needed in the first place. ugh, i HATE waste
PM inbound

Cheers
Jay
 
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Item request: Brew bucket lid, Airlock Out/ Ball lock In, CO2 adapter fitting

I would like to have a fitting that attaches to the current brew bucket lid hole (or drilled out to attached this new adapter) that can take a airlock and switch to a ball lock post to hook up CO2 during cold crash. All this without removing the lid.

I thought about drilling a new hole (2nd hole in addition to airlock hole) and adding a ball lock post bulkhead but concerned plugging the stopper hole could open under light pressure while cold crashing (stopper is shrinking). The ideal solution can use a single lid hole that switched from stopper/airlock to ball lock post. I dont want the ball lock post on all the time as part of the solution because 2 out of 10 fermentations i have to have a blow off hose and i dont want a poppet valve getting in the way/clogging. Plus cleanup in that case is a mess.

Perhaps something involving a male cam lock on the lid could be the solution with female camlock elbow to male gas ball lock adapter? Just thought of this as i was typing.

Thoughts? anyone else interested in this?
I think what you are wanting is totally doable with stock off the shelf hardware using camlock or QD fittings and just adapt it all for quick swap.

Cheers
Jay
 

mwayne112

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Jay, anyway you could combine with the 1.5" pull through triclamp, so that it could pull through?
 

NewJersey

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PM inbound

Cheers
Jay
i see it's back in stock on your site now.
is there any way to actually order EXACTLY what you have in the video (ball valves, camlock, and all) without pieceing it together myself?
i wanna order exactly what you have in the video fully assembled and throw the rest of the stuff i have in the trash.
 
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i see it's back in stock on your site now.
is there any way to actually order EXACTLY what you have in the video (ball valves, camlock, and all) without pieceing it together myself?
i wanna order exactly what you have in the video fully assembled and throw the rest of the stuff i have in the trash.
You bet. I understand now. You bought Brand X and want to toss it out and get my system..GOTCHA! Yeah let me check out the video again and I'll shoot you a PM here in a bit with a order sheet. Disregard my earlier PM..

Cheers
Jay
 
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