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Do you Aerate your Wort ?

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You can get too much, and it can lead to off-flavors. Also, I think the guy at Brulosophy did some experiments, if I remember correctly.
 
In response to OP question:
Yes, but only for last 5 - 6 batches with one of the airpumps / .2 micron stone setups from morebeer (~$30)....I have NOT noticed any difference.

If I could have the pump or my $30 back...I would like my $30 back please.
Plus - it extends the brew day - in my case - with no detectable return on the investment for the pump nor my time - the beer is still beer.
YMMV
 
I aerate @ pitching temps as soon as the carboys are filled with a stone and a 7$ 02 bottle from Lowes. 60 secs for each carboy and then yeast is pitched (given then temp is where I want it).
 
Quick question, what are ill effects of aerating after you pitch your yeast?

It's what I usually do, and it sounds like it's the incorrect thing to do...
 
Your likely a more advanced brewer than I am, so I respect what you're saying even though your kind or warning me here. Why don't you count a lot more Mississippi's next time while injecting oxygen and see if it ruins your batch.

At the least, your claim that one cannot inject to much oxygen into a batch is slightly muted by the fact your limiting your own oxy injections to such short time periods.

I'm just using filtered air so it doesn't concern me at this point but I suspect there's more to the story than "it can't be done".



I have a centennial pale ale that I've made at least 30 times. It's kinda my "house brew". I'm not sure it's even a pale ale with an og of 70, but whatever. Lol! I have always aerated it with my o2 tank. I made the mistake of using the bathroom after starting the aeration process. Next thing I know, my wife is calling me for something dumb, kids start fighting upstairs, something gets spilled on the couch... etc etc etc. Lol!

Anyways, I forgot and left the o2 on the whole time. Almost 30 minutes in a 5 gallon batch. End result...


Everything was the same. Lag time, amount of days fermenting, flavor, appearance. Nothing was different. I thought it was gonna be ruined. I was dead wrong.


To be fair, I've made the same batch and didn't aerate at all. Everything was still the same, except it took about 12 hours more before it became active.



I'm starting to question the validity of oxygenating for 5g batches. Shaking may not even be necessary. I may just start "splash pouring"...
 
Years ago I had a batch that was really slow to launch and had to pitch new yeast as a result of that I searched around and I started using yeast starters and an O2 stone, I just put the stone in for thirty seconds into each fermenter (I split ten gallon batches between two carboys) and I have had excellent results, knock on wood. :)
 
Quick question, what are ill effects of aerating after you pitch your yeast?

It's what I usually do, and it sounds like it's the incorrect thing to do...

Now I'm curious too. I use the shake method after pitching yest to help combine. Figure that the whole point is to make the oxygen available to them...
 
I have a centennial pale ale that I've made at least 30 times. It's kinda my "house brew". I'm not sure it's even a pale ale with an og of 70, but whatever. Lol! I have always aerated it with my o2 tank. I made the mistake of using the bathroom after starting the aeration process. Next thing I know, my wife is calling me for something dumb, kids start fighting upstairs, something gets spilled on the couch... etc etc etc. Lol!

Anyways, I forgot and left the o2 on the whole time. Almost 30 minutes in a 5 gallon batch. End result...


Everything was the same. Lag time, amount of days fermenting, flavor, appearance. Nothing was different. I thought it was gonna be ruined. I was dead wrong.


To be fair, I've made the same batch and didn't aerate at all. Everything was still the same, except it took about 12 hours more before it became active.



I'm starting to question the validity of oxygenating for 5g batches. Shaking may not even be necessary. I may just start "splash pouring"...

Great to hear about your "over"oxygenating. I've never used pure O2. I've never had my beers judged so I don't want to say there are no flaws and present all of my findings as fact... but I've never once had a beer not reach FG, or noticed any fusely off-flavors. Even 1.1 stouts reaching predicted terminal gravity. That's enough for me to be fine with splash aerating! I also pitch pretty sizeably slurries though so I have good yeast health/counts. I am experimenting with a venturi tubing setup though for fun. I like bubblez.
 
When I'm draining the chilled wort from the kettle into the bucket fermenter, I whip the tubing back and forth in a zig-zag pattern so that the wort gets splashed around as it enters the bucket. At the same time, I have the tip of my left foot underneath the edge of the bucket, which allows me to "rock" the bucket back and forth. By pacing the "rocking" motion just right, you get some pretty violent sloshing with very little effort. I find this so much easier than putting the lid on the filled bucket and attempting to shake it; I did that once and swore to never again.
 
I've had a bit of a difference with oxygenating wort. Two batches of the same beer. Ferment was the same, same times, same yeast, same temps, etc.

Batch one with O2: Grain to carbonated keg, 14 days. Nice clean ferment, beer's good.

Batch two, No O2: Grain to carbonated keg, 14 days. Ferment looked good, beer has acetaldehyde/green apples. Not a lot, but noticeable.

Seems that properly oxygenated worts ferment and finish out faster.
 
I've had a bit of a difference with oxygenating wort. Two batches of the same beer. Ferment was the same, same times, same yeast, same temps, etc.

Batch one with O2: Grain to carbonated keg, 14 days. Nice clean ferment, beer's good.

Batch two, No O2: Grain to carbonated keg, 14 days. Ferment looked good, beer has acetaldehyde/green apples. Not a lot, but noticeable.

Seems that properly oxygenated worts ferment and finish out faster.


If only you had the third member...over oxygenated wort!!!
 
I have a centennial pale ale that I've made at least 30 times. It's kinda my "house brew". I'm not sure it's even a pale ale with an og of 70, but whatever. Lol! I have always aerated it with my o2 tank. I made the mistake of using the bathroom after starting the aeration process. Next thing I know, my wife is calling me for something dumb, kids start fighting upstairs, something gets spilled on the couch... etc etc etc. Lol!

Anyways, I forgot and left the o2 on the whole time. Almost 30 minutes in a 5 gallon batch. End result...


Everything was the same. Lag time, amount of days fermenting, flavor, appearance. Nothing was different. I thought it was gonna be ruined. I was dead wrong.


To be fair, I've made the same batch and didn't aerate at all. Everything was still the same, except it took about 12 hours more before it became active.



I'm starting to question the validity of oxygenating for 5g batches. Shaking may not even be necessary. I may just start "splash pouring"...

I pour my wort through a funnel. I've been shaking, but I'm thinking that the pour is probably adequate. It seems to splash enough. I guess it might be time to experiment.
 
Seems that properly oxygenated worts ferment and finish out faster.


This is very possible, and most likely.

My results could differ because I never brew a 14 day Grain to Carbed Keg batch. I minimum primary 3-4 weeks, then set and forget for another 2 weeks. That amount of time could definitely allow yeast to clean up after themselves.

Why be in such a rush? Buy more kegs for your pipeline! You know you want to... Lol!

:mug:
 
I've got plenty of kegs, brewing time not so much lately! Trying to get the pipeline filled again. Besides, if it's done, why leave it in the fermenter?
 
Quick question, what are ill effects of aerating after you pitch your yeast?

It's what I usually do, and it sounds like it's the incorrect thing to do...
None, some beers (higher gravity) I am told benefit from a 2nd shot of O2 a day or two later.

...Anyways, I forgot and left the o2 on the whole time. Almost 30 minutes in a 5 gallon batch. End result...


Everything was the same. Lag time, amount of days fermenting, flavor, appearance. Nothing was different. I thought it was gonna be ruined. I was dead wrong.


To be fair, I've made the same batch and didn't aerate at all. Everything was still the same, except it took about 12 hours more before it became active.


I'm starting to question the validity of oxygenating for 5g batches. Shaking may not even be necessary. I may just start "splash pouring"...

Interesting story. I bought into the O2 setup and have been mostly doing this for the past year, and have wondered about under, over and non-oxygenating. Exbeeriment time!

When I'm draining the chilled wort from the kettle into the bucket fermenter, I whip the tubing back and forth in a zig-zag pattern so that the wort gets splashed around as it enters the bucket. At the same time, I have the tip of my left foot underneath the edge of the bucket, which allows me to "rock" the bucket back and forth. By pacing the "rocking" motion just right, you get some pretty violent sloshing with very little effort. I find this so much easier than putting the lid on the filled bucket and attempting to shake it; I did that once and swore to never again.

Ah yes, this is why I got my O2 setup. Too much work/babysitting there!

I've had a bit of a difference with oxygenating wort. Two batches of the same beer. Ferment was the same, same times, same yeast, same temps, etc.

Batch one with O2: Grain to carbonated keg, 14 days. Nice clean ferment, beer's good.

Batch two, No O2: Grain to carbonated keg, 14 days. Ferment looked good, beer has acetaldehyde/green apples. Not a lot, but noticeable.

Seems that properly oxygenated worts ferment and finish out faster.

That's also what I've noticed. I just had a 1 week in the bottle GP Mosaic smash and was amazed how "finished" (and good!) it was already. This weekend is week #2 in and am looking forward to the next one!
 
Quick question, what are ill effects of aerating after you pitch your yeast?

It's what I usually do, and it sounds like it's the incorrect thing to do...


This is what I was taught to do and have done successfully for over four years. Keep in min you do not need to use O2 w/ dry yeast/ rehydrated or not.
 
I "borrowed" my other half's handheld wine vinturi. With the help of a metal coat hanger, I am able to run my line to the top and hold the vinturi from the top of my primary bucket. I control the flow by the ball valve on the MK. so far, so great!
 
I started using an aerating setup about a 4 batches ago. So far it seems to help with my higher gravity beers to give the yeast enough oxygen to more fully attenuate. I'll probably have a better sense of it after a few more batches.
 
When i did 5 gallon extract batches I would pour the wort into the fermenter from up high.

When i moved to all grain 10 gallon batches As I'm pumping the wort thru the chiller and into the fermenter I will hold the hose up so that it splashes vigorously ala a waterfall into the fermenter.

Always has seemed to be enough areation, never have had a batch not ferment or had a stuck fermentation.

Now that I'm moving to a 1bbl system we'll see if I need to do anything different.
 
I poured the wort into the carboy hoping that it would be enough to aerate the wort,

View attachment 333477

Was I right? How will I know if I'm wrong? And is it possible to aerate it 24 hours after pitching.


No dude, don't add oxygen after fermentation has begun. If it isn't enough you might have some off flavors or a slow ferment but you should just let it ride this time, IMO.
 
I use pure o2 on all my sacch primary beers. I have found that it is extremely helpful for yeast health in higher gravity worts.

I do not aerate the wort for brett or mixed fermentation beers.
 
So my experiment. This time, I just dumped the wort through the funnel and didn't shake the carboy.

Notes:
  • Fermentation seemed to take off in around the same time.
  • The fermentation may have been less vigorous. The last few brews, the krausen rose to the top of the carboy. This time it stayed pretty low. Could just be the 1084 at the low end temp wise. I'm probably just used to British ale yeasts.
  • I'll take a reading in two or three weeks. I expect it will finish fine.
 
I've gone the cheap route (@$20) and used an aquarium pump, air stone and PVC tubing for 10 minutes after the wort cools down to 120F. I've noticed that fermentation activity starts a lot earlier and completes in a shorter time.
 
Brewed again yesterday and just dumped through the funnel. Pitched the yeast a little after noon. It was fermenting away this morning. I may have even underpitched since the gravity was 1.063

On my setup I haven't noticed a lag time. It makes me wonder how much aerating is actually necessary on a 5 gallon batch. I'll probably keg the one tonight. That will give me another data point.
 
Update:
Just finished kegging. The yeast (Wyeast 1084) had no problem finishing. In fact maybe a bit too much. :) 1.047 to 1.004; 91% apparent attenuation. I need to adjust my mash temp but aeration didn't seem to be a problem. The sample tasted good.
 
That's 91% attenuation on a yeast rated for 71-75%... Either your measurements are wrong or you're infected. :)
 
So I've known how important aeration of wort is prior to pitching yeast... my solution was always to throw open the valve on my kettle and watch the stream of wort flow through the air and make impact on the side of my fermentation bucket... as the stream gets smaller, I just scoot the bucket.

I do this inside so there's very little risk of crap falling in, and I keep my wife and kids away. By the time I'm finished there's a ton of froth in the bucket, I pitch my yeast and usually there's activity within 24 hours (within only a couple if I do a good starter).

Besides the obvious infection risk (which, knock on wood, I've not had a single one in all the times I've done this), any other potential down sides?
 
So I've known how important aeration of wort is prior to pitching yeast... my solution was always to throw open the valve on my kettle and watch the stream of wort flow through the air and make impact on the side of my fermentation bucket... as the stream gets smaller, I just scoot the bucket.

I do this inside so there's very little risk of crap falling in, and I keep my wife and kids away. By the time I'm finished there's a ton of froth in the bucket, I pitch my yeast and usually there's activity within 24 hours (within only a couple if I do a good starter).

Besides the obvious infection risk (which, knock on wood, I've not had a single one in all the times I've done this), any other potential down sides?

Not sure why there would be an increased infection risk, and I am using similar process to you (with aerating plastic tip at the bottom of the transfer tube) but I think we are still under-oxygenating the wort by quite a bit. That's bigger downside than any risk of infection from getting oxygen from air in.
 

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