rycov
Well-Known Member
also anyone looking at this, don't take this to be correct. i'm asking the more knoledgable people if it is right. so untill some one gives it the ok, don't use it.
DIY temp controller build
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I have built a very similar unit as the one showed here. I do not believe that a heat sink is required in this situation because of the rather low current being drawn through the SSR as well as the fact that the SSR is designed to be cycled much more frequently then this application would call for. Also since an SSR only has an increased resistance when the circuit is closed ie when the freezer is running there would not be much time for excessive heat to build up. At least that seems to be the case for my freezer; It hardly runs for extended periods of time.
On another note, when using the controller for heat do I need to be worried about the humidity inside of the fermentation chamber?
On another note, when using the controller for heat do I need to be worried about the humidity inside of the fermentation chamber?
It is similar to my diagram, which I had solicited feedback for a while back. Finally getting around to wiring mine up today. On my diagram, below, the terminal connections go to phono plugs, for cheap and easy disconnects. The "Out" connections for the heating and cooling go to RH and RC respectively. The "Return" connections go to the common ground. I haven't obviously verified that the relays in the thermostat will work yet, but assume that they will. Should have that verified after a little soldering today. Additionally, I have added a connection for a fan, as well. (Didn't label it on this version of the diagram, but "black" is "hot", "grey" is "neutral", and "green" is "ground" for the AC legs.)
One thing that your diagram (and the original one you modified) are missing is the ground connection from the outlets. I am making sure to ground mine, by using a 3-pronged extension cord. For safety, I also added a 15a fuse to my hot leg. Considering that this will run unattended, it is a small addition for a bit of piece of mind.
I should have my build done sometime today. I'll let you know how it goes. Everything has been drilled, cut, and test fitted already. Should not take much time to get it knocked together once I get started.
rycov
Well-Known Member
ok. i think i get what you have goin on there, but bear with me. i'm really not an electronics guy. what is the outlet on the left for? it looks like your going to plug the fridge and heater in on the outlet to the right? also as for how it is linked to the thermostat, mine says Rh, Rc, Y, G, and W. do you know how that corresponds to your: H out, H return, C out, C return, F out, F return? i'm trying really hard to understand this stuff and i think i almost got it. thanks jmferris!
rycov
Well-Known Member
also please post some pictures when you get it done!
ok. i think i get what you have goin on there, but bear with me. i'm really not an electronics guy. what is the outlet on the left for? it looks like your going to plug the fridge and heater in on the outlet to the right? also as for how it is linked to the thermostat, mine says Rh, Rc, Y, G, and W. do you know how that corresponds to your: H out, H return, C out, C return, F out, F return? i'm trying really hard to understand this stuff and i think i almost got it. thanks jmferris!
The other outlet will likely be used to power the transformer.
On my thermostat the RH and RC were the power for heat cycle and power for cooling cycle respectively. The way I wired mine was to put a jumper between the RH and RC.
Then bring the + side of the transformer through the relay (watch polarity on SSR) into either RH or RC and the - side of the transformer went to G the terminal, meant to control the fan relay.
To my understanding there is a heating circuit and a cooling circuit in the thermostat and both circuits have the ability to control the fan. The way it would work in your house would be for the thermostat to send a voltage from the heat or cool circuit to the fan relay in order to start the fan. All i am doing is using the thermostat to ground the control circuit so that the relay will switch.
Im not a circuits expert being a mechanical engineer but that is what I think is happening. So if there are some HVAC gurus on here that can clear it up better feel free to correct me.
Wired like this I can run both heat and cool with my thermostat but I only control one outlet so I would probably have to rethink it if I wanted to heat and cool without having to change what is plugged in.
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rycov
Well-Known Member
so the the Rh and Rc would be going from the thermostat and to their respective relays? and i wouldnt want them to be jumped so i could control them individually? or its the power coming from the transformer and i would want them jumped so they both get power? then wich ones would go out from the thermostat to the relays? and if i didnt wire two outlets like jmferris then i could just plug the transformer into the wall right?
Well the power goes through the relays and then into the thermostat but yes you seem to get the idea. You would not want Rh and Rc jumped. Just do it like the wiring diagram above but where his says Hout and Cout you would use Rh and Rc and then the return wire would be on G, all the return is is the negative side of your transformer. This will require you to leave the fan setting on the thermostat on auto.
Yes you would be able to just plug the transformer into a wall outlet. But what he has would be nice because your temp controller would just need one plug.
I also had to change the jumper inside of my thermostat to electric heat from gas to make mine work.
Junkster
Well-Known Member
I think this will work: Referencing the diagram in post #63 - H out would be "W", C out would be "Y" on the 'stat. Leave Rh & Rc strapped together & run to the -5volt supply (Fan, that is "G" on the 'stat) is not needed.
rycov
Well-Known Member
it's all kinda comin together for me. i think this will work on what i have.
one of the wiring options that came with my thermostat has this
Rh=heat power
Rc=cool power
y=cool contactor
g=fan relay
w=heat contactor.
so the rh and rc get the -5 from the transformer and are jumped so only one wire is needed there. y goes to the cool relay and w to the heat relay?
if so then i'm pretty sure i can do this now
rycov
Well-Known Member
any one know if i can use this old samsung charger, for the transformer? it says output: 5 v--0.7A.
rycov
Well-Known Member
i do to. i don't know much about electronics and thats seems to be what the instructions that came with the thermostat said.
Sadly, I am going to have to wait at least one more day to finish up. The junction box itself is built out, and the "always live" side works well. In my infinite wisdom to go with phono jacks in the enclosure, I seem to have forgotten the fact that it commonly uses a shielded cable. I can't find any dual-stranded cables in my big box o' crap, so I'll have to make a few. It would be a PITA to otherwise hook up to the thermostat.
This is what it looks like, as it sits right now. Still have to label my external connections and run the wires to the thermostats. Should only need another ten minutes to solder and heatshrink the new cables once I get the jacks tomorrow. Forgive the crappy phone-quality image:
So, tomorrow it is off to Rat Shack to pick up some phono plugs so that I can run a dual-stranded wire off of each of them. At least since I have yet to have the relays go hot, I can proudly say that I haven't burnt down the house today.
rycov
Well-Known Member
looks good so far. don't forget to update us when you get it all final
rycov
Well-Known Member
ok. another dumb question from my non-electricity understanding ass. i bought two relays. figured i needed the DPDT the one i got is eight pin. is this right? after reading a bit on relays it seems like i should have gone with the SPDT. i went to radio shack and they didn't have any that looked like the ones from the OP. please help!
and jmferris, don't forget about the update pics!
and jmferris, don't forget about the update pics!
shildebr
Well-Known Member
The OP used solid state relays, are the ones you bought SSR or coil type?
When I built mine, I only used one SPST coil relay, (You would use two if you were cooling and heating. I was only cooling).
The SPST I bought has 4 terminals and is in the "normally open" position, so that when power is applied to the coil, the circuit is closed, turning on the fridge.
rycov
Well-Known Member
mine were coils. i didn't know any better. and i bought the DPDT, they were eight pin. can i still use these? or should i take them back to radio shack?
shildebr
Well-Known Member
You can still use it, its just not necessary.
See in this diagram, each pole is normally contacting one throw or the other.
When voltage is applied to the coil, each pole switches, and contacts the other throw.
You only need one of those poles, and one of these throws, meaning you will have a lot of unused pins.
Not a problem, just not necessary.
See in this diagram, each pole is normally contacting one throw or the other.
When voltage is applied to the coil, each pole switches, and contacts the other throw.
You only need one of those poles, and one of these throws, meaning you will have a lot of unused pins.
Not a problem, just not necessary.
rycov
Well-Known Member
ok. so what i want to do is connect the bottom two, that are turned perpendicular to the others, to the thermostat and transformer, then connect the wires from the wall to the outlet through two of the other poles? does it matter which ones i use? also it looks kinda little to be running 120 volts through.
shildebr
Well-Known Member
Yes, the two turned perpendicular go to the coil. The two adjacent to it are the poles, and the next two are the throws.
Each pole will have one throw it is normally in contact with. You want to connect to the opposite one. I'm not sure which one that is, but you could test it pretty easily.
It should not matter which pole you use.
As for the size of the relay, as long as its rated for the voltage and amperage you are running across it, you should be OK.
rycov
Well-Known Member
its rated for the amps and voltage i need. does this look right?
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rycov
Well-Known Member
at my work computer. wont let me upload the picture. i'll ask again when i get home. thanks man
HItransplant
Well-Known Member
this looks very interesting....
im hoping someone can help with a question:
Is this something that could be put in charge of a fermentation chamber for maintaining ale fermentation temps?
Im looking at the son of a fermentation chiller instead of a fridge for my cell design, and Im also thinking of adding a heater element so the chamber can go both ways (my garage is where im planning to operate this rig.
anyone else doing this?
love the DIY stuff... thanks for sharing.
im hoping someone can help with a question:
Is this something that could be put in charge of a fermentation chamber for maintaining ale fermentation temps?
Im looking at the son of a fermentation chiller instead of a fridge for my cell design, and Im also thinking of adding a heater element so the chamber can go both ways (my garage is where im planning to operate this rig.
anyone else doing this?
love the DIY stuff... thanks for sharing.
That is pretty much how I plan on using mine, although I will be using a refrigerator. I have seen some people who have implemented it primarily for heating and have just hooked an internal fan up for the cooling to circulate the air that has been cooled by the ice throughout the chamber and then used something like one of those reptile infrared heaters for the heating aspect.
The general principal remains the same - you need a way to trigger your cooling and heating actions. Only real difference, from what you are looking to do, is likely that you will only need AC voltage to drive whatever heating element you plan on using. If you are going to use a fan for cooling circulation, you can either get a 120V fan to run off of line voltage, or provide a lower voltage source to power a lower voltage fan - i.e. a 12V DC fan powered by another power source, etc.
Overall, the design of these temperature controllers provides a great bit of versatility. You can even use them for other non-brewing applications. Greenhouse temperature control would be a good example of that.
The general principal remains the same - you need a way to trigger your cooling and heating actions. Only real difference, from what you are looking to do, is likely that you will only need AC voltage to drive whatever heating element you plan on using. If you are going to use a fan for cooling circulation, you can either get a 120V fan to run off of line voltage, or provide a lower voltage source to power a lower voltage fan - i.e. a 12V DC fan powered by another power source, etc.
Overall, the design of these temperature controllers provides a great bit of versatility. You can even use them for other non-brewing applications. Greenhouse temperature control would be a good example of that.
rycov
Well-Known Member
shildebr
Well-Known Member
I don't think so. You probably will connect the power supply through two terminals which are in the same column.
Not all relays are the exact same, but thats the typical configuration.
You can always test, either with a continuity tester, or some low voltage signal. (Before I got a digital multimeter, I tested mine by connecting a speaker cable across it and knew it was working when the sound would turn on and off)
The lower one is probably the pole, then there is a NC throw and a NO throw. (normally open and normally closed). Connect your power supply across the pole and the NO terminal.
Hope this works for you.
rycov
Well-Known Member
ok. i think i see what your saying. sorry for all the questions. i really have know idea what i'm doing. but i can test it with something else, like a speaker, or a small light bulb or something?
shildebr
Well-Known Member
Yes, and for the love of God be careful.
It may not be 240V, but still enough to hurt and/or kill you, or burn your house down.
Use appropriate sized wire, and insulate well (especially at relay terminals). I would recommend these:
Besides that, Good luck!
rycov
Well-Known Member
i will be very careful. i get what all of the parts are doing, i'm just not sure about these relays. all they had at radio shack was the coils. they didn't have any of the solid state ones that were in some of the earlier posts. i'll be sure to check and double check everything. thanks for the recommendation, i'll see if i can find some of those.
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