DIY glycol chilled plastic conical fermenters

[TrickyDick]

Hey, Thanks for the pics!

I'm waiting for a CO2 refill in order to test my first completed conical for airtightness. This is going to be my backup plan.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

So one of my bulkheads for the dip tube is out of tolerance.

Those were very difficult to install. Not looking forward to removing.

I have my plumbing planned out and I had a question. On the design, there are three main lines, one feed the input to the conicals, and another accepts the returns, and then both ramify with a common return line. Since my cart is different than the OP, I really do not need to have the middle common return line run all the way to the end of the cart, since my reservoir in the in middle of the cart, I'm just going to drop it down at the appropriate location. Is there any necessity for having that line be of any specific length? I did sum the length of the coolant path for each conical, and all are equal.

Also, how difficult is it to apply the insulating material to the PEX tubing?

Hoping to have mine finished for brewing May 31. Mounting the tubing has been a stumbling block, but I am going to mount to a wooden board that in turn will be mounted to the cart, and I would like to plumb in all the tubing before I mount the board to the cart.

I still have some wiring to finish up. Tried pressure testing the conicals, and when I set it to 2 psi, I cannot tell if there is an air leak or not. I guess that time will tell. Still have to finish off two more lids and mount the coils to the compression fittings. Tubing bender works like a champ. Also need to install the dip tubes and trim them to desired length, one will have to wait for the correct bulkhead fitting since one was out of spec and the 1/2" tube won't pass. Applying insulation will be the last step.

TD




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[staffordj]

As long as there is a valve after the last conical on the supply line, I don't think it matters where the return line is (within reason of course). That way all three conicals have the same supply pressure. You may want to look back earlier in the thread as packet explained this is detail.

 

[TrickyDick]

OK.

Got that (plumbing) all planned out nicely now. Just need some free time to plumb up the 2x6 board I'm mounting to, drill out some bolt holes to mount to frame, and then holes through the deck for the cooling lines. The aluminum should be relatively soft to drill. Got some grommets that'll fit the tubing perfectly. Will probably need to buy extra pipe insulation for all of the PEX tubing. Aside from one part of the plumbing, the whole thing will be easily take down if I ever needed to. Trying to wrap my brain around that part right now. Which leads into my next question.

It never shows a picture of how the Hydraulic QD fittings that connect to the conical lids are connected to the coolant lines. These have a female 1/2" NPT thread. since the PEX tubing is fairly rigid, I am assuming that Packet was using reinforced braided vinyl tubing for these line, perhaps with a hose barb to pipe thread fitting. I supposed it could be PEX tubing though. I'm not really sure. The Return lines appear to connect to a camlock type connector, but it never shows the connectors for the automated ball valves. I assume these are also to be connected with camlocks? If so I'll need to buy 6 more camlock C connctors for these, plus a 7th for racking beer out of the ball valves fitted with the cam locks as well. I only bought 4 of the camlock C connectors it seems which I'll need to use on the coolant reservoir and to connect it to the plumbing. Now if he is also using Camlocks to connect the Hydraulic QDs , then I'll need 6 more Camlock C connectors for a total of 13. Seems that having a QD connect to a camlock is redundant though, but that's 6 hose barb to MPT connectors I need to buy.

Be nice to hear how other folks connected theirs. I am pretty much stuck with the camlock fittings. I'm wondering how I might be able to eliminate some of these connections, especially since they would end up leaking glycol all over the place if I ever needed to remove them.

TD

Edit-
Ah HAh! I looked through the thread, not just the plastic conical website, and found a part of my answer. Enough to move forward. 6 more camlock C and 6 more hose barb fittings ordered. I think that's the last except for more pipe insulation.

 

[Komocabo]

Go TrickyDick! I've been watching (and drooling) over this thread since it started. I still don't have anything constructive to say, but good on you for keeping at it and asking questions. I just got my 2nd term chamber today (freezer- my old one crapped out on me). I wish I could do this build, but I don't have the energy nor resources at this time to make it happen... back to my new fermentation chamber for now. Keep posting brother!

 

[TrickyDick]

Still forgot to order that additional cam lock for the racking tubing. DOH! $6.99 part, $8.99 shipping.... maybe I'll find one I can get through one of the other places I buy ingredients from with free S&H.

Might be doing the plumbing board today while I'm mashing. Brewing Biermuncher's Cream of Three Crops Ale today. Should make for a refreshing summertime brew.

May 31, Jun 1 is planned as the official christening of the fermentation system, so I need to get at it.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

got the plumbing part essentially done. Need to attach the return line and mount to the frame. I'll mount first to see how I want the return line to go.

Not really looking forward to drilling a whole bunch of 1/2" holes in 3/16" aluminum. I think the coolant holes are 7/8 or even 1" for the grommets.


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[ClaudiusB]

View attachment 201188 got the plumbing part essentially done. Need to attach the return line and mount to the frame. I'll mount first to see how I want the return line to go.

Not really looking forward to drilling a whole bunch of 1/2" holes in 3/16" aluminum. I think the coolant holes are 7/8 or even 1" for the grommets.


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Can't wait for the project done pictures.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[TrickyDick]

Work in progress


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[ClaudiusB]

View attachment 201276View attachment 201277
Work in progress


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Thanks for the pics.
Nice and time consuming project.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[eaglerisingbrew]

I love this project. I am still welding the frame together for mine so i will definitely check back here to see your progress.

 

[Travestian]

Can't wait for the project done pictures.
Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Agreed!

 

[TrickyDick]

SO quickie question.

I kinda dig being able to see into the conicals to a degree. once the insulation is on, that's gone. can the system keep them cold, such as extended lagering, even if the there is no insulation? Just curious, as I haven't put on my insulation yet.

Check list for me includes:
last few touches on the control panel, plus hardwiring the ethernet and the temp probes.
minor changes to the glycol reservoir fittings
finish up lids on two of the the conicals
finish trimming dip tubes
finish plumbing in the coolant lines for the lids.

The aluminum drills like butter. no worries there.

Hope to have finished by end of the weekend.

TD

 

[TrickyDick]

Few more pics.
Got plumbing mostly done. Last few PEX crimps are going to be very painful to accomplish
In retrospect, I think it would have been better to arrange the coolant holes in the deck differently, which would've simplified the final connections a LOT. I'm not ready to consider drilling new holes (as long as there aren't any leaks).

Seemed that for my application, that I probably have some redundant camlock connections.

Even if in the end I don't like the way I plumbed the PEX tubing, could always re-do it as much of the parts beside the crimps and the short PEX segments can be reused, plus I don't really need a whole of it to begin with.

TD


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[wasitim]

Hey Chris,
How much pressure can you put on that setup without it leaking, or have you ever tried?

 

[Chrisl77]

I am sure it would but I have not pressurized it past the pressure made by fermentation. I don't use pressure to push the beer out of the fermenter I connect a vacuum pump to the gas side of my kegs and a stainless steel racking cane on the out post
that I put in the fermenter though the opening for my thermwell. The vacuum pump does a good job of drawing the beer out of the fermenter and down the dip tube in the keg outlet.

 

[TrickyDick]

I think I need to make plumbing revisions. The side-by-side arrangement of the coolant line holes in the deck doesn't work very well. The PEX tube is too rigid, and I can't get the crimp tool onto some of the rings when its mounted to the cart. I had thought that the side by side would correct since the lids have the hydraulic fittings sort of side by side, however, the plumbing manifold arrangement seems to dictate a different arrangement. Looks like I get to drill 6 more 7/8" holes. This time I'm borrowing a better drill bit though. The drilling process make a total mess. I think I will eventually fill the holes with epoxy and maybe paint afterward.

Looks like its probably NOT going to be ready for use this weekend.

TD

 

[ClaudiusB]

I think I need to make plumbing revisions. The PEX tube is too rigid, and I can't get the crimp tool onto some of the rings when its mounted to the cart.

TD

I am glad I didn't use PEX for my glycol system I made in 2005.

Looks like its probably NOT going to be ready for use this weekend.

You are letting us down


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

 

[staffordj]

SO quickie question.

I kinda dig being able to see into the conicals to a degree. once the insulation is on, that's gone. can the system keep them cold, such as extended lagering, even if the there is no insulation? Just curious, as I haven't put on my insulation yet.

Good progress Tricky. Your system looks great with the Al stand. The insulation helps a lot with temp control. It will also help to keep condensation down, especially if it is humid where you are. The other reason not to leave it off, as you probably know, is light will degrade the beer. If your area is dark and close to the fermentation temp, than it may work. Otherwise, I would use insulation. I have mine setup so it Velcros in the front so I can open it up to check the level during transfer and potentially take a look at it. Since the conical is translucent, you can's see much fermentation activity like you can glass though.

 

[TrickyDick]

Good progress Tricky. Your system looks great with the Al stand. The insulation helps a lot with temp control. It will also help to keep condensation down, especially if it is humid where you are. The other reason not to leave it off, as you probably know, is light will degrade the beer. If your area is dark and close to the fermentation temp, than it may work. Otherwise, I would use insulation. I have mine setup so it Velcros in the front so I can open it up to check the level during transfer and potentially take a look at it. Since the conical is translucent, you can's see much fermentation activity like you can glass though.

Good idea on the velcro. I foresee the insulation as the most PITA part of the project. crawling beneath, double sided tape, etc. I do like the idea of a sight level to see what the volumes are. I'm wondering about maybe doing a hole in the velcro to put a light, or maybe even hardwiring some bulbs I can turn on, beneath the insulation opposite the volume graduations to transilluminate the conicals to be able to read the measurements. Just turn it on when you want to type thing. Maybe a couple christmas light strings...
Dunno. for now I just want it done.

TD

 

[Mellman]

I am glad I didn't use PEX for my glycol system I made in 2005.



You are letting us down


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Whatd you use instead of pex?

 

[TrickyDick]

Probably hard plumbed stainless. He has a link somewhere to his brewery, which is pretty awesome as I recall.

I pulled my plumbing "manifold" off, got to make some measurements for revising the pass-through coolant lines, then drill 6 more 7/8" holes and patch existing. I've marked up the hole positions for drilling so the PEX Tee fittings line up better with holes, but will need to mock up the PEX connections before making measurements for final drilling. I think it'll be worth it once it's all done, because it'll have a nice look to it. Once that's done, I should be off to the races. Still have much to do, but this is the part holding me up. It'll really be a relief once this project is finished. It's a pita racking and what not with my existing setup and loading fermenters into the ferm-freezer.

TD




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[TrickyDick]

By the way, brewed a Saison over weekend. Wanted to ferment high, but weather in FL not cooperative. It's been up to 80 on the porch, but no higher (in the shade), and nights low 70's. Been wondering how to adapt the plastic conical for heating?
Was thinking maybe wrap a heating element before applying insulation? What is a good heat source? I wonder would I get good enough heating across the plastic to support 80-85° without damage to neoprene or HDPE? I could probably swap out a thermocouple probe and hook to a STC temp controller independently of the cooling system. I don't think the BCS can run heating AND cooling in the current setup I am using. Might also be nice to be able to "free" rise Belgian fermentations in my similar manner.

Who has successfully add a heating component to theirs without using the reservoir with aquarium element for heating?

TD


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[Komocabo]

Didn't some folks use heat wrap? What about flexible reptile heater cord? I use that in my fermenter and it works like a charm ($25?)

 

[eaglerisingbrew]

Didn't some folks use heat wrap? What about flexible reptile heater cord? I use that in my fermenter and it works like a charm ($25?)

I picked up a reptile heater element that plugs in like a light bulb. Still haven't needed to use it but I expect it should work out fine.

 

[TrickyDick]

Thanks guys. I heat-wrap I don't think is the same size as the conical. I have some but I don't think it will fit onto the side of the conical. The reptile cord I wonder if it would melt the plastic. I'm wondering about just some heating pads or something. I want to mount them on the conical itself and then cover with insulation. I'm not getting the lightbulb thing.

TD

 

[Chrisl77]

I use the cord with no issues. I just taped it to the conical without insulation.

 

[Komocabo]

If I remember right, the cord only gets to 90°F. So should have no issues getting too hot. It's made to have direct contact with reptiles, so... Anyways, you could wrap it around a few times the conical, then cover with insulation

 

[TrickyDick]

Where can I buy some? What voltage does it use?
How much you think I'd need to heat each 15 gal conical?
Thanks!


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[Komocabo]

Amazon. Standard wall outlet is fine. Comes in 50' and 25' lengths