I am building a boil tank ekeggle (15.5 gallon stainless steel) with a 240v 4500w ultra low watt density heating element and I am unsure where to drill for the thermometer. I have the element installed as low as possible in the ekeggle while still being horizontal. Should the thermometer be more than 3 inches away? Should it be directly above or angled to the heating element?
DIY ekeggle setup for boil tank. Where to put thermometer?
- Thread starter Brewtah1
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It probably doesn't matter. Just be sure it's no higher than the post-boil level of your smallest batch size.
Also, if the element is going to be removed for service/cleaning/replacement make sure the thermometer isn't going to interfere...
Cheers!
Also, if the element is going to be removed for service/cleaning/replacement make sure the thermometer isn't going to interfere...
Cheers!
For mine, I put a 2" tri-clamp port in the back a few inches up from the bottom. Almost level with that in the front I did 2 x 1/2" NPT, one for the valve and on for the thermo-well. So the temp probe sits ~3 inches from the element almost level with it. Stays pretty accurate.
The one thing I wish I did(and am having done now) is putting a 2" tri-clamp port dead center on the bottom of both my boil kettle and HLT. I can then fully drain and CIP.
BTW, Sanke kegs wll allow you to use a 2" tri-clamp on the port after the spear is gone.. When I re-built my mash tun, I cut out the bottom instead of the top, and now have a bottom draining mash tun. Still dialing it all in after I get the boil kettle and HLT back, but it *should* mean that I can effectively replace lifting with pumps and scouring/dumping with CIP...
The one thing I wish I did(and am having done now) is putting a 2" tri-clamp port dead center on the bottom of both my boil kettle and HLT. I can then fully drain and CIP.
BTW, Sanke kegs wll allow you to use a 2" tri-clamp on the port after the spear is gone.. When I re-built my mash tun, I cut out the bottom instead of the top, and now have a bottom draining mash tun. Still dialing it all in after I get the boil kettle and HLT back, but it *should* mean that I can effectively replace lifting with pumps and scouring/dumping with CIP...
I wish I had asked this question before cutting off the top of the keg! This is a brilliant idea and wish I had thought of it. I had to buy another 2" TC for the bottom for draining and CIP.
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