Definite leak?

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

natural

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
165
Reaction score
7
Location
Edmonton
First time kegging, I set it to 12 psi went to bed woke up with half a bottle left. Safe to assume there'sa leak. However someone at work told me today not to kleave the c02 running and to pressureit up and shut it off?

From what I understand I just have a leak and can set it to 12 and leave it at 12 while it's carbing and dispensing? Just gotta fix myself up with some soapy water?
 
Sounds like a leak. How long did it take to lose half? When I had a leak, my CO2 went from 700 to 0 overnight.

How much CO2 was in the tank when you hooked it up? Whenever I hook up a new uncarbed keg, my CO2 reading goes down for a little bit then goes back up.
 
Did you put the co2 tank in the kegerator last night? Or is it out at room temp? Cold temps of the fridge drops the pressure on the gauge. If not inside the kegerator, then I'd say you probably have a leak. Tighten all connections, listen for any hissing sounds, spray the lid on your keg to see if it's not leaking there, also. I have kegs that take a miracle to seal, it's quite annoying.
 
I keep some Starsan in a spray bottle. It does a good job at general cleanup around the keggerator as well as helps in finding leaks. Spray down all the connections and you will see bubbles if there are any issues. If you don't have Starsan do the same with a bit of dish soap in a spray bottle.

That said the high pressure gauge isn't all that useful. As hinted at above is the tank at room temp or was it moved inside the fridge. I really don't use the HP gauge for much other than, a measure that it is empty. It really doesn't gauge how many more kegs you can get through before needing a refill. The gauge can fluctuate quite a bit based on ambient temp.

As far as carbonation. I set mine to 10-12 depending on beer and leave them. Some boost the pressure to 25-30 for 24 hrs to speed up the process. Personal preference but by going high pressure you shorten the amount of time to force carb but run the risk of over carbing. Since I have room for 4 kegs, with taps for 3, this means that normally I have 1 carbonating while consuming the other 3. As one blows, I rotate the one that has been carbonating into the now free tap, then get another one out of secondary and start carbonating.

It really comes down to personal preference, time, equipment, ect.
 
That drop suggests you're keeping your tank in your kegerator. I had and asked about the same "issue". It wasn't a leak. My second keg hooked up had a leak on the gas end. The tank was emptied over night. No doubt now what a leak looks like to me.
 
Yeah mine is in the kegerator and it dropped about 5 ticks on the gauge. Can't give an exact number until I'm home. I just shut the c02 off for when I went to work. I can keep it at 12 right? Constantly to carb for a week?
 
I'd like to force carb it but everything I read seems to be a different opinion on how to do it.
 
I'd like to force carb it but everything I read seems to be a different opinion on how to do it.
 
So I did have two small leaks on each of my gas lines, however the massive drop was absolutely because of the temperature change. Thanks guys!
 
Like you mentioned, the way everyone does FC is the best way to them.

Bottom line, you can do what you want. I set to serving pressure and leave it. As I mentioned, I have more room than taps. I have 6 kegs but can only have 4 in the keggerator. So for me it isn't a big deal hook it up to gas at serving pressure, purge and let it sit. After a week it isn't bad. At two weeks it is perfect. It isn't possible to screw it up this way but it takes longer. Because of my use of the beer and equipment this works best for me.

Another way is to purge, boost to 30PSI or so, rock it, let it sit then bleed and go to serving pressure. This will save some time off the wait. You will be drinking in a few days rather than a week. Here are the risks. Over carbonation is possible. Boost the pressure then you get busy with life and forget about it. Oops. Over carbed isn't the end of the world. If you go to serving pressure the excess gas will work out of solution in time. Be careful though you don't want beer going back the gas line into the regulator. It will screw it up and I have read where this has happened to people. Better option might be to leave the gas line disconnected, vent the pressure from the keg, rock it and vent. This will work the CO2 out of solution just like how you can work it in.

As far as pressure. 12 is a good starting pressure. There isn't a cut and dry right answer. I typically am closer to 10 in my system but it depends on what type of beer I am serving. Different styles call for different pressures. I try and shoot in the middle somewhere as I have a variety on tap all the time. The next variable is keggerator temp. Variations in how cold you like your beer will impact the pressures you want. Then there is equipment. Shorter liquid lines don't like highly carbonated beer. You will get a glass of foam. You can tune your taps so you have different styles served on different lengths of line to get a balance. I had a beer I took to a party a couple months ago. My portable cobra tap had a 3' line on it. I was getting too much foam. So I swapped it out with a 10' line and it was perfect. Don't want 10' of line taking up room in your keggerator, use shorter lines. I think the lines in my keggerator are about 4' long. To keep from getting too much foam though, I had to dial my pressure back to about 10PSI.

From what I have read, storing the tank in the fridge will cut it's life a bit. Not sure how much but a little. Like I said, the high pressure gauge doesn't tell you all that much. Some have a range that say replace tank or something along those lines. I don't know how they calibrate this. I suspect it is going to be at room temp not in the 35-45 range that most fridges are at. Also even at room temp, how long you can go while it is in the "replace" range will depend on how you are using it, how many kegs are hooked up. Are those kegs empty or full, how big the CO2 tank is (5#, 10#, ect), are you in the middle of FC a new keg, are you purging bottles while you use a beer gun? I just glance at it and make sure it doesn't say 0 PSI. I also have two CO2 (10# steel & 20# Aluminum) tanks so I always have plenty of gas on hand.
 
Yeah mine is in the kegerator and it dropped about 5 ticks on the gauge. Can't give an exact number until I'm home. I just shut the c02 off for when I went to work. I can keep it at 12 right? Constantly to carb for a week?

My 5lb bottle has run at about half way between the green and the red range in my fridge at 40F since I first had it filled. I've been running this cylinder for 4-5 months now, turned on the whole time and I've got through 4 kegs so far and carbed some sodas in 2l bottles, so it's not a leak, it's just the lower equilibrium pressure in the bottle at 40 F compared to 70F.

The high pressure gauge on the regulator doesn't measure the quantity of CO2, just the pressure in the bottle. Since the CO2 liquifies in the bottle even at room temperature, the pressure doesn't drop until the bottle is almost empty, but the pressure does depend on the temperature of the liquid and gas. The only reliable way to measure the amount of CO2 left is to weigh the bottle when you first connect it, and then weigh it later to see how much gas you've used. This is the same as for propane tanks - both CO2 and propane are liquid in their respective pressurized tanks.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top