z987k said:I just watched the videos and read this http://www.strandbrewers.org/techinfo/decoct1.htm
The only thing I never really picked up was what this does to the finished product vs infusion mashing? At the end there he had all the protein built up on top, assuming that doesn't make it to the beer, does head retention suffer (I suspect not)?
Maltier profile, higher FG?
Just wondering what does the thinner mash provided? The only reason I did such a thick part of the decoction was I think it was BYO interview a German Brewery and brew master was saying part of not extracting tannins was due in part to the high sugar content of the decoction along with mash PH
aekdbbop said:your accent helps with your credibility though..haha
DeadYetiBrew said:I appreciate the video, really simplified my thoughts on it.... In fact i don't know why i didn't decoct from the start.... Looks like control is easier than other methods....
Kaiser said:You don't have to decoct to get that control. Simply aiming for a dough-in between 133 F and 140 and using boiling water infusions to raise the temp to sacc temp temperatures works well enough. That's what I do as my standard mash for German beers.
Kai
instereo13 said:One question: why do you do your iodine test on chalk?
bradsul said:Thanks Kaiser!
nathan said:So, If I may ask, if you are using a system like a Brutus Ten type, or B3 sculpture, would it work to replace the normal boil kettle with another pot, and use that burner and pot for the decoction boils? You could then use the pumped temp-control for your mash tun and have one less thing to worry about. Except maybe that you'd return less of the hot decoction to raise temps (then adjust controller on mash sensor) and let more cool in the decoction kettle to return when it cools to the proper rest temp for that return. Does that make sense?
It's because you boil a part of the wort. The stuff you have in the lauter tun will be missing from the trub in your boil kettle.I never realized there was so much of it.![]()