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BloodSweatandBeers
Active Member
Me and a buddy brewed up 10 gallons of this last night. He did a partial boil and I did a full. The only difference is we used a full ounce of hops and pitched 1.5 packs Nottingham dry yeast. Less than 8 hours later, both carboys are rattling in the freezer. Looking forward to tasting this brew, thanks for the recipe.
andysim
Well-Known Member
I brewed this, but added 1# of lactose instead of. 5#. I also started fermentation at 65 degrees and slowing raised it to 70 over three weeks. It tastes great.
Has anyone else added more lactose?
Has anyone else added more lactose?
OP
OP
NCBeernut
Well-Known Member
So the yeast/pitch rate is the same, hops are the same and fermentation is the same? That is interesting. Definitely post and let us know if there was any noticeable difference between partial/full boil.
BloodSweatandBeers
Active Member
Yep, everything was the same. Ordered enough for 10 gallons and split the bill 50/50. Will update in about 6 weeks.
ncodedcode
Member
What should I use for bottle carbing - dextrose (5oz) or brown sugar (same amount or more?) ? I do not own a keg yet, so bottle carbing is my only option 
Any help would be great! Thanks!
Any help would be great! Thanks!
ncodedcode
Member
ncodedcode
Member
1 more question.. Do I need to use a yeast starter if I am using Nottingham dry yeast or just pitch the yeast in? Thanks!
ncodedcode
Member
Thanks for the all the info!
I made this yesterday and I guess I messed up my mash somehow.... (I used the steps in partial mash technique on the beginners forum sticky) I only got an OG of 1.040.. but it tasted good.. I'm guessing I should just let it ferment and see how it turns out?
This was my first all grain recipe, so chances are I messed up somewhere..
I made this yesterday and I guess I messed up my mash somehow.... (I used the steps in partial mash technique on the beginners forum sticky) I only got an OG of 1.040
.. but it tasted good.. I'm guessing I should just let it ferment and see how it turns out? This was my first all grain recipe, so chances are I messed up somewhere..
ncodedcode
Member
I did a partial... the mash temp was 168F before adding the grains. It was 150F after I added the grains and stirred it. I however forgot to get a SG reading before the boil.
ncodedcode
Member
Oh sorry I meant all grain.. was looking at some other topics at the same time. I did an all grain with 4 gallon batch size (2 gallon steep + 2 gallon sparge) and then topped off to 5 gallons after the boil. I'm new to all this and I'm sure I have messed up on the way....I guess I need to reread everything and start afresh for learning how to do all grain.
That said, thanks a lot for your help and taking time to respond!
C2H6O
Primary
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Just as a side note - some variables that will impact your mash (water-grist ratio/temp/time/pH/mixing)- 150F is a little low to start at after adding your strike water. You are going to lose heat over the course of 45-90min depending on your mash time. I am not sure if that was where you ended or not. You need to mix the mash well to ensure all the grains are wetted and there are no dough balls and cold spots. Depending on the water you use the pH can also impact the conversion. I believe a rule of thumb is you get better extraction around 152-154F of fermentable sugar and less flavor and more flavor and less fermentables 157-159F. Also the water to grist ratio is important and should be 1.2-1.5.
pvtschultz
Well-Known Member
When I set up my AG batches in BeerSmith, I anticipate 70% efficiency (full volume BiaB) and select my ingredient amounts as such. BeerSmith is pretty good calculated evaporation losses so I use the numbers as a guide. I measure the OG at the end of the boil and after chilling and dilute if necessary to achieve the desired OG. If I'm under, oh well, live and learn and adjust for the next time. I'm not sure if you under did the grain bill or if you got terrible mash efficiency. I normally get 73%-77% with my method and plan accordingly.
ncodedcode
Member
Thanks! I ended up at 152F-154F after about 10-15 mins of grains in the water. But I didn't check the temperature after that. It must have gone down a lot and I guess that's where my troubles started. This was my first all-grain so I have quite a bit of learning up ahead. For now I guess I will continue to use PM instead. Do you know any easy way to convert from all-grain to PM? I will look around but was wondering if there is an easy way to convert?
Thanks again!
Thanks to all who contributed to this thread, especially the OP for the recipe... I brewed this about 2 months ago and finally hooked this up to my new nitro setup yesterday. I poured the first pint last night and it is absolutely amazing. The creamy head with the nitro pour is out of this world, and I don't even think it's fully carbed up yet... Another day or two and this will be even more sensational. I'm definitely a believer in this recipe!
OP
OP
NCBeernut
Well-Known Member
This is kind of confusing to me, but it sounds like this is the key to your problem. So did you scale down the ingredients for 4 gallons and then dilute it? that would certainly lower the gravity. If you were doing a concentrated boil, that was the problem. You probably got terrible efficiency because you didn't use enough volume to mash/sparge. 2 gallons of water for that much grain, then only 2 gallons to sparge would give you pretty rotten efficiency.
Unless your pot is big enough to handle a 6-7 gallon boil, all-grain really is off the table unless you are going to only brew small batches.
beergolf
Well-Known Member
I am looking to try this.
I have US-05 and 1338 on hand. Leaning to the US-05 but may just toss in the 1338 too. Any thoughts on that idea? The 1388 is a few months old so without making a starter it may not add much.
I have US-05 and 1338 on hand. Leaning to the US-05 but may just toss in the 1338 too. Any thoughts on that idea? The 1388 is a few months old so without making a starter it may not add much.
BloodSweatandBeers
Active Member
Bottled after a month. Came out with the following readings: OG 1.060 FG 1.023 ABV 4.8% I'll post taste reviews and a side by side of my buddies in about a month or so.
Brewing my 6th or 7th batch of this beer today (it never lasts long) -- NCBeernut thx for sharing such a truly enjoyable brew, I get more compliments on this one than on anything else I brew ...
Diaperload
Well-Known Member
Brewing this tonight. This will be my 5th batch ever. My previous batches were 2 brown ales and 2 american wheats so this is a departure from my comfort zone.
With so many recommendations I feel pretty safe.
So far this is my second most expensive batch coming in at $52.00. It woulda been first but my last batch of raspberry wheat beat it out once I bought the raspberries.
With so many recommendations I feel pretty safe.
So far this is my second most expensive batch coming in at $52.00. It woulda been first but my last batch of raspberry wheat beat it out once I bought the raspberries.
pvtschultz
Well-Known Member
I'm brewing this one up tonight for the second time. The first batch was only 2 gallons as a try and see brew, but that didn't last very long at all.
Brewed this for the second time on June 27th, as the first brew garnered some great reviews (and I really liked it). Bottled on the 2nd of August. Sampled a bottle just a few hours ago. I was expecting a not so ready beer after only a month. However, the beer was exceptional. Great coffee, great chocolate, great everything. I did adjust a few things, and while I really loved the original, I like this one even more.
Here is what I did:
Wyeast 1338 - European Ale - 2L starter.
Used 2-row rather than pale (because I have tons of 2 row and no pale)
Added CaraPils - 8 oz.
Increased coffee to 3.5 oz (this was a good - very good - choice!) - I did 2 oz last time.
Subbed 80 L for the 60, and added 3 oz of 80 L in order to finish stock on hand. (may try some 120 next time.....)
Added .25 oz Magnium at 5 mins, because I had .25 oz left.....
Did a 90 min boil as I really messed up my water volumes.
Oh - fermented in the low 60's - sat for one month and a few days in the primary.
Anyway, I am going to do this again reall soon, as it is going to be gone soon
Here is what I did:
Wyeast 1338 - European Ale - 2L starter.
Used 2-row rather than pale (because I have tons of 2 row and no pale)
Added CaraPils - 8 oz.
Increased coffee to 3.5 oz (this was a good - very good - choice!) - I did 2 oz last time.
Subbed 80 L for the 60, and added 3 oz of 80 L in order to finish stock on hand. (may try some 120 next time.....)
Added .25 oz Magnium at 5 mins, because I had .25 oz left.....
Did a 90 min boil as I really messed up my water volumes.
Oh - fermented in the low 60's - sat for one month and a few days in the primary.
Anyway, I am going to do this again reall soon, as it is going to be gone soon
Well, I just Finished brewing this up and I'm waiting on the carboy to cool off a little more to pitch the yeast.
So i found this recipe this morning got inspired and went to the LHBS, and this is what i put into the brew kettle.
5lb of amber DME
2lb of Wheat DME
3/4lb C60L
1/4lb C120L
1lb chocolate malt
1/2lb roasted barley
1/2lb lactose
1oz northern brewer hops (no magnum available)
WLP013 London Ale yeast.
----
See you guys in 2 months for a review
So i found this recipe this morning got inspired and went to the LHBS, and this is what i put into the brew kettle.
5lb of amber DME
2lb of Wheat DME
3/4lb C60L
1/4lb C120L
1lb chocolate malt
1/2lb roasted barley
1/2lb lactose
1oz northern brewer hops (no magnum available)
WLP013 London Ale yeast.
----
See you guys in 2 months for a review
Think after reading this entire thread. It looks like I should leave in the primary for about a month. Then maybe rack to secondary for a week. Then bottle and let condition for a month. How does that sound?
Leaving in primary for a month is good, but there is no real reason, in my opinion anyway, to rack to a secondary for a week. Just rack and bottle.
I usually still have a good bit of yeast and sometimes a bit of trub in the secondary. I was thinking a week in the secondary to help it settle out and then do a cold fallout before bottling. If that is pointless I'll just go from primary to bottle on this one
BloodSweatandBeers
Active Member
Definitely set up a blow off for this brew! I thought my 6.5 gallon carboy would work for a 5 gallon batch with only an airlock.....WRONG!
AMel85 said:
You'll want to steep the specialty grains at 150 for 30 minutes. Then heat to a boil and add the extract. From there in, it is just like a plain extract batch.
Sent from my Android using Home Brew Talk
BloodSweatandBeers
Active Member
This is a killer brew. I did the side by side of a full boil vs a traditional stove top boil. The only difference that I can really notice is the full boil is smoother tasting. I still get the the sweat roasty coffee flavors, but the full boil seems to blend better together. Maybe someone more experienced could point out something else but either way this stout is excellent, full boil or partial. Thanks so much for this recipe!
thirstyutahn
Well-Known Member
Hi all, this is my first post and this was also my first brew ever. With the help of a friend I went straight into all-grain and this is the recipe I used. Everything seemed to go very smoothly and I hit 1.054 og. My only concern is that my wort ended looking very brown as opposed to the very dark brown - black I was expecting. I'll try to give as much info as possible to hopefully help me diagnose the problem.
Recipe was the same except my LHBS only had .5 lbs of white white malt, so he recommended 1lb of flaked wheat in addition to the .5 lb of white wheat. Also he was out of 60L caramel so I got 55L instead. Everything else was spot on and I used 7 pounds of us pale malt 2 row. My LHBS used his mill to crush my specialty grains and my buddy used his mill to crush my 2row(he averages 80% eff)
I heated 3.125 gallons of water to 165 I believe and my mash tun temp came out to 151 so I added 2 cups of boiling water to get it to 152. I mashed for 60 min. I batch sparged with 4.5 gallons(2 at 2.25 gallons each time) of water at 170. Now when I first drained into my brewpot my wort was very dark as expected but on my first sparge it was lighter and on my second it was also lighter. After my 60 min boil and all that when i dumped it into my 6 gallon fermentation bucket it was way higher than expected. I mean I'm about 3 in from the top and certainly more than 5 gallons. I thought I would be under because beersmith was saying I'd need a little over 8 gallons of water.
Any idea what I did wrong? Sorry for the novel but I always hate when people ask what went wrong but don't give any details. Thanks for the help.
Recipe was the same except my LHBS only had .5 lbs of white white malt, so he recommended 1lb of flaked wheat in addition to the .5 lb of white wheat. Also he was out of 60L caramel so I got 55L instead. Everything else was spot on and I used 7 pounds of us pale malt 2 row. My LHBS used his mill to crush my specialty grains and my buddy used his mill to crush my 2row(he averages 80% eff)
I heated 3.125 gallons of water to 165 I believe and my mash tun temp came out to 151 so I added 2 cups of boiling water to get it to 152. I mashed for 60 min. I batch sparged with 4.5 gallons(2 at 2.25 gallons each time) of water at 170. Now when I first drained into my brewpot my wort was very dark as expected but on my first sparge it was lighter and on my second it was also lighter. After my 60 min boil and all that when i dumped it into my 6 gallon fermentation bucket it was way higher than expected. I mean I'm about 3 in from the top and certainly more than 5 gallons. I thought I would be under because beersmith was saying I'd need a little over 8 gallons of water.
Any idea what I did wrong? Sorry for the novel but I always hate when people ask what went wrong but don't give any details. Thanks for the help
.
