Day of firsts (brew and all-grain)

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njschmidt

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So today was the day I have been planning for. Reading, watching youtube instruction videos, surfing the internet, reading HBT posts, and today it culminated with my first brew day. I decided to get straight to business, all-grain or bust.

Here's the recipe for the oatmeal stout I followed (I got it from Natchel's Homebrewing for Dummies):

---
Grains:
7 lbs. 2-row pale malt
0.5 lb. 2-row dextrin malt
1 lb. roasted barley
0.5 lb. 2-row dark caramel malt
1 lb. flaked barley
1 cup wheat malt
1 lb. oatmeal

Hops:
1.75 oz. Northern Brewer (6.8 AAU) for 60 minutes

Yeast:
Wyeast 1056

Mash at 130*F for 20 minutes, raise to 155*F for 1 hour
---

Here's my setup ... It was much more organized at the beginning of the brew day ... looked like chaos at the end.

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As you can see, I used a cooler for my MLT (with the SS tube strainer), a 30 qt. aluminum turkey fryer (with propane burner kit), and a 3/8" x 20' copper immersion wort chiller that I made.

First on the day's list of tasks was cleaning and sanitation. I used iodophor, and was very pleased with how easy it was to use. I filled my fermenter with it, soaked everything in that, and filled a small spray bottle that I used throughout the day (I used almost the entire spray bottle!).

The first mistake I made was that I added 1 *pound* of wheat malt, instead of 1 *cup* ... I didn't catch my mistake until about 5 minutes ago.

Other than that, I had some temperature issues when trying to get my mash to 130*F (had to add some ice cubes, added too many, so then had to add more hot water), and even more difficulty getting the temp up to 155*F for the second stage of the mash. All in all, I think I added around 6 gallons of water to the mash, not even counting the sparge.

I vorlaufed, then drained off the wort into my kettle, getting about 5 gallons of first runnings. I sparged 1.5 additional gallons which brought the volume in my boil kettle up to 6.5 gallons. Had the color I was going for :).

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Next I brought the wort up to a boil, added the 1.75 ounces of Northern Brewer hops (did this very carefully, first stirring the wort into a small whirlpool which I think prevented a boil-over), and sat back with a Guinness (this is my first brew, so no homebrews for me ... yet). Here's some of the leftover wort (I like the color), and the hops that I used.

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I was very pleased to complete the boil without any boil-overs ... I had expected it to be disastrous, considering how little room there was between the wort and the pot's rim. 10 minutes prior to flame-out, I put the immersion chiller in. At flame out, I turned on the immersion chiller, and noticed this (which had not happened in the tests when I built it):

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None of the water spray was going anywhere near the wort, so I figured it was harmless. About 40 minutes later, my wort was chilled to 79*F. OG came out to 1053 (1051 on the hydrometer, +.002 for temperature), which I'm pleased with (Homebrewing for Dummies said an OG range I think from 1038 to 1058).

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Finally, I took a drink from the hydrometer's sample. Man, does this thing have some bitterness. It's like an IPA. One concern I have, then, is definitely whether I made this too hoppy, even though I followed the recipe verbatim (well, except for that whole 1 cup of wheat malt thing). The other concern (or more just curiosity) is what effect the 1 pound of wheat malt as opposed to 1 cup might have on the finished product.

The auto-siphon that I thought would be the greatest thing in the world did not work for me. I could get it to work for a few seconds, but it would gradually reduce its flow and then just stop altogether. I followed all directions for the auto-siphon and even watched videos of others using it ... I'm at a loss regarding it. Instead, I used a sanitized pitcher to transfer the cooled wort into the fermenter, until the pot was light enough that I could just dump it all in (strained, of course).

Here's the brew, 5.5 gallons of it and with yeasties ready to attack, all set up to ferment in its primary for the next week. Temperature is pretty stable in the upper 60's here.

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Anywho, that was my first brewing experience, and my first all-grain! It was a fun brew-day, and I'd like to thank the HBT forums and the advice from my local beer club (shout out to Golden Triangle Homebrewers Club) for all their help :). Thanks for reading, and please don't hesitate to point out room for improvement!
 
Thanks, 40watt ... I hadn't really looked into them, but after a quick search of the forum I think I might sanitize and stick some tubing in there, going to an outside bottle. Have company this weekend and really don't want a mess. It's already bubbling vigorously.
 
congrats.. looks like you made beer!!!

still trying to figure out how they call it an oatmeal stout with no oatmeal in the grist.. as far as a pound of wheat.. it'll have more head retention.
 
Thanks Mysticmead ... I definitely won't mind more head retention if that's all it does. I was worried it might throw the flavor terribly off. Oh, and there is a pound of oatmeal in the grist ... I just forgot to add it to the post ... fixed!
 
a few things I learned about all grain is.... the grains are very forgiving.. little mistakes like adding more that needed... or mashing a degree or 2 high or low isn't going to be the end of the world. Always let it ferment out before deciding if it's a dumper... most of the time it'll turn out great.

welcome to brewing and to all grain.. I wish I hadn't bothered with extract as all grain while it takes longer, it gives complete control over the beer... and well.. I guess I'm kind of a control freak.
 
when using the autosiphon, pump it a few times to really get a good flow with no air going. It'll be your best friend once you get it working. Practice with water.

I have that same homebrewing book ad I hate how they give such a wide range on OG's. That oatmeal stout is ambitious for your first brew! Nice work.
 
@ Mysticmead, I hope you're right and the grains are very forgiving, seeing as hell it took me like 15 minutes to get the mash temp up to 155 for the hour long mash, lol.

@ KFBass, I suppose I'll give the autosiphon another chance ... Will try pumping some water out of my boil kettle when I'm cleaning it. I really want it to work, as it will make my life a whole lot easier. And I agree, the large range of OG's is kind of confusing in the book.
 
Dang ... just realized I forgot to check the pH of my mash... Even have a digital pH meter that I got just for the job >.<
 
I check the PH maybe once every year on my mashes. if this is the first brew, you have other things to worry about. I commend you again for going all grain on your first brew. Lets just try to make it through fermentation and packaging before worrying about PH. Same with water adjustments. Learn to brew before worrying about making it world class beer.

Tho if you have the equipment...
 
@ KFBass, Yeah, I had picked up a digital pH meter from eBay and was really looking forward to using it (I think I recall reading some other HBT folks talking about it, too). Glad to know it isn't something I need to do every time, though :).
 
Dammit, I did some more research and think I figured out why my wort tasted so hoppy ... The recipe I used called for 1.75 ounces of Northern Brewer hops (6.8 AAU) ... The Northern Brewer hops that I used 1.75 ounces of say that they're 10.6 AAU ... A calculation on Beersmith shows that the brew will have 49.3 IBUs, which seems to be way over the oatmeal stout style's acceptable level of IBUs (Beersmith gives a range from 25.0 to 40.0). Any ideas on what this is going to taste like, and whether it will be drinkable?
 
it'll be drinkable.. but it'll be hoppy. good news is... let it sit for a while and the hops will fade a bit. My Oatmeal stout came in around 32 IBU, not hoppy, but balanced
 
A couple things:

-You need to relax my friend. You can't really taste anything about the final product from drinking it straight out of the BK. Nothing will be the same, not even the color!

-Nice dog.

-All of my beers taste hella bitter coming out of the BK, and when they are carbed up and everything they taste fine. It just tastes more bitter at the beginning for whatever reason.

-Now that you've done this, you can calculate your efficiency! I was so excited to do this when I first started, but incidentally I'd broken my hydrometer right beforehand. When you do this, make sure that you include the fact that you added 1 lb of wheat instead of a cup though. Also, just for reference, a cup of grains is about 6-7 oz.
 
As far as the wort bitterness - I've noticed that fresh wort always tastes significantly hoppier than the final product. I believe it's due to some hop solids still being in suspension, which will flocculate out in the fermenter. Of course, the pound of roasted barley is going to add a lot of bitterness as well.
 
A couple things:

-You need to relax my friend. You can't really taste anything about the final product from drinking it straight out of the BK. Nothing will be the same, not even the color!

Thanks ... I was already thinking I should just start brewing my next batch next week so I could have some good homebrew to drink without waiting to see how this error turns out ... Good or bad, I'm gonna drink it, though!

-Nice dog.

Thanks! He's a Maltese named Apollo ... I wish I had named him Barley, though ... Then I could say he's a Barley Malt, bwahaha.

-Now that you've done this, you can calculate your efficiency! I was so excited to do this when I first started, but incidentally I'd broken my hydrometer right beforehand. When you do this, make sure that you include the fact that you added 1 lb of wheat instead of a cup though.

Cool! I took you up on it and here's what I got:

2-row pale malt: 37 points per pound * 7 pounds = 259
Cara-Pils Dextrin: 33 points per pound * 0.5 pound = 16.5
Roasted barley: 25 points per pound * 1 pound = 25
Wheat malt: 38 points per pound * 1 pound = 38
Flaked barley: 32 points per pound * 1 pound = 32
Flaked oats: 33 points per pound * 1 pound = 33
Caramel malt: 33 points per pound * 0.5 pound = 16.5


420 (total potential points) /5.5(gallon batch size)=76.3636, so 1076 ideal OG
I got 1053 OG, so 53/76 = 69.7% efficiency

This sounds about right to me (because I'm a first-timer), but Beersmith gave me a 1063 estimated OG making my efficiency 84% ... I *know* my efficiency wasn't 84%, lol.
 
- 70% on your 1st try is AWESOME! Great job!

- +1 to relaxing about the bitterness, there are hops in the sample that will cause it to taste hoppier. It might be high for the style, but time will take the edge off. Lastly, if you like it, WHO CARES what the BJCP guidelines say!!!

- As for the extra wheat... three things... 1) I've made that mistake. Try to stick with only ONE unit of measure for your grains, it'll make everything easier in the long and short run, 2) extra wheat will add head (how could more head be bad???? just saying') and maybe smooth it out a bit (which also happens with the oatmeal), and 3) it'll add a couple points to to total OG (which obviously didn't matter since it fell into the range your book stated).

Again, CONGRATS on joining the club and GREAT JOB!!! Stick with it, it gets better and easier.
 
Update after 4 days: First day, I pitched yeast at 77*F (maybe too hot?), then it cooled and fermented between 70-73 for the first 12 hours. I placed the primary in a swamp cooler afterwards, and it's been fermenting between 65-68 ever since. The fermentor has all but stopped burping, so I decided to take another gravity reading. My recipe says 6 days in primary, 4 days in secondary, so I figured it would be pretty close to being fully fermented by now. My gravity read 1014, which was *exactly* what beersmith predicted (so I was very pleased). I took a taste test from the hydrometer sample, and was very pleased with how the hops have mellowed out (not to mention I didn't notice any off flavors, which I had been worried about due to the higher temp pitch and high temp initial fermentation). I would say that it's about as hoppy (bitter) as a Guinness at this point. I was a bit concerned by some astringency that I tasted at the aftertaste. My mind was put to ease, however, when I decided to have a Sierra Nevada Stout tonight and noticed the exact same flavor (which I had labeled "astringent" in my sample) in the SN stout. Clearly I'm just becoming adjusted to black roasted barley's flavors. I'm really excited to see how this beer is going to turn out, first because it's my first brew ever, second because it's my first all-grain, and third because I love stouts :p.

Some thoughts on future directions:

1) I plan on letting the beer sit in the primary longer than the recipe suggests (at least 10 days instead of 6). The only reason I wouldn't do this is if the "experts" here believe there's a possibility of further fermentation, as I want the FG to be around 1014 where it is now.

2) I'm wondering, if I decide to transfer to glass carboy for secondary, whether I need to keep the temp around 65*F, as I'm doing with the primary.

3) If I go straight to bottle conditioning after primary, should I try to keep my bottles at 65*F as well, or is it ok for them to be in plain old room temperature (around here it's 70-72).

Thanks for any input, and I'll keep y'all posted!
 
I believe most here will tell you to leave it sit at least 3 weeks in the primary, especially for a stout. Even though fermentation may be finished the yeast are still working cleaning up various things in the beer. I would leave it. Also, you said you wanted to pull it off the primary because you want to keep it at 014. You really cant halt that fermentation if it wants to go further. If you put it in bottles now and it really isn't finished, you will have a big problem in some bottle bombs. I say, leave it in primary for 3 weeks, don't even bother with a secondary. After 3 weeks go ahead and bottle it.
 
skip the secondary.. let it sit in the primary for a couple weeks.. then crash cool if you can.. if not, after a couple weeks prime and bottle. I let mine bottle condition at room temp for a couple weeks.
 
Thanks for the replies. I definitely wouldn't put it in bottles now, but I had been thinking of putting it in secondary to stop (or at least minimize) any further fermentation. I'm pretty confident that it's done fermenting, though, since I'm not seeing any more burping with the air-lock.

@ Mysticmead, what exactly would be the purpose of crash cooling? I've done searches on HBT and have seen that some people crash cool to clear up the beer after fermentation has already halted, but for a stout I'm not too worried about clearing anything up (it's dark as Mississippi mud anyways) ... If I were to crash cool (assuming crash-cooling is for improving flavor rather than just aesthetics), I don't have a refrigerator large enough, but suppose I could dump a bunch of bags of ice in my swamp cooler ... would that add any flavor benefits to the brew?

Thanks again!
-Nick
 
crash cooling does help clear the beer.. even a stout can be clear and still be dark. it just helps keep bottle sediment to a minimum. transferring to a secondary does not stop it from fermenting any more.. it just gets it off the yeast cake, there's still yeast in suspension. the work they're doing at this point is mainly cleanup work. let them do their thing.

Of course, not seeing activity in the airlock doesn't mean it's done fermenting. check the FG again in a couple days and see if it has dropped any.. even if it's 1 point. that indicates fermentation is still in progress. if it remains the same, it's done. just let it sit on the yeast and clean itself up.
 
crash cooling is fine, but if you are looking for some clarity gelatin works great as well. As far a stout goes I dont generally bother with either. It's going to be opaque as it is.

I dont use a secondary often, unless I get a bit worried about the trub layer. Sometimes I Rack to secondary and in secondary I use the gelatin. The yeast that form the trub in the primary are actually the yeast that have stopped fermenting and dropped out.

+1 to letting it sit longer. Ten days should be fine. Again check the FG over 3 days and if it hasnt changed you are probably good.

Letting the beer age a bit in the bottles will help it drastically. Using a priming sugar calculator and prime to 2.2 vol co2. Let them sit for a month, then refridgerate. Not that I expect anybody to wait a month, it'll just be great after that long. The hops will mellow a bit, more roasty chocolate flavours comming out. Should be great.

def get something going in the interim, because you are going to run out of beer before your next batch is ready! This stout will be the best you ever tasted! Perhaps a Hefe or try ed worts haus pale. Something you can turn around rather quick, then you will have two home made beers to offer friends.
 
crash cooling is fine, but if you are looking for some clarity gelatin works great as well. As far a stout goes I dont generally bother with either. It's going to be opaque as it is.

This was my thought exactly ... It's a stout, I want it black as mud anyways, it'd have to be held up to a flood light to tell its clarity anyways, lol.

+1 to letting it sit longer. Ten days should be fine. Again check the FG over 3 days and if it hasnt changed you are probably good.

Will do ... Given the perfect matching with Beersmith and that I've reached the expected FG of the recipe, as well as the practically nonexistent burping, I'm pretty sure it will be the same reading in 3 days. Just for safe measure, though, 10 days sounds good to me (unless I pick up on some off-flavors, though, in which case I'll let it sit and work itself out some).

Letting the beer age a bit in the bottles will help it drastically. Using a priming sugar calculator and prime to 2.2 vol co2. Let them sit for a month, then refridgerate. Not that I expect anybody to wait a month, it'll just be great after that long. The hops will mellow a bit, more roasty chocolate flavours comming out. Should be great.

Thanks for the info on the 2.2 vol Co2 ... I had a range, but wasn't sure exactly what vol to go for. And yes, I doubt I will be able to wait a full month before I try one, hahaha. More than likely I'll try one after 2 weeks, and then go from there. I'm definitely looking forward to the hops mellowing out a bit more, as well as the more roasty chocolate flavors coming out ... you're making me thirsty!

def get something going in the interim, because you are going to run out of beer before your next batch is ready! This stout will be the best you ever tasted! Perhaps a Hefe or try ed worts haus pale. Something you can turn around rather quick, then you will have two home made beers to offer friends.

And you read my mind! I've been trying to decide what I want to brew next. I decided against another Oatmeal Stout this soon, but was thinking that I might like to try either an Irish Red or an Amber Ale, with the caveat that I like big bodies ... I was thinking of adding oatmeal (or wheat malt?) to an Irish Red or Amber Ale to meet my tastes?
 
Definitely let it sit a bit longer to allow the yeast to finish cleaning up the beer. I'd also consider allowing the temperature to come up a few degrees (low 70's) to help stimulate the yeast into action again. You'll see bubbles as it warms up but that's probably just CO2 coming out of solution, but, as some others have stated, a lack of bubbles from yeast doesn't mean they're not still working. The higher temperaturs are really only a big concern during the initial growth phase of the yeast, but don't let it go above 75 if you can help it.
 
Update! Today marked 10 days in the primary, and as I mentioned earlier I decided to let it sit for the 10 days (as opposed to 6 days in primary and 4 in secondary suggested by the recipe) and then taste for any off-flavors. Beer tasted great and held at 1014 FG, albeit hoppier than intended (but not unexpected, given my error with the AAUs), so I went ahead and bottled it (oh, and thanks for the advice PearsonFam ... I raised the temp to 70 for the last few days).

I primed it with 3.7 ounces of corn sugar (suggested by BeerSmith for 2.2 volumes of carbonation), boiled for 10 minutes and added to my bottling carboy. One thing I did have some concern about were the bubbles/foam that seemed to form in each bottle as I filled it (and yes, I was using a bottling wand ... attached to 3/8" tubing attached to racking cane, all with clamps to ensure no room for air leaks)... It's a mystery to me, but I'm hoping it won't effect the beer too much as it isn't a heavier beer and won't be aging too long. I'm pleased to have gotten out a full 52 beers :). Right now they're in a dark spot at a constant 70*F. I figure I'll try one in a week, one in 2 weeks, one in 3 and so on until it tastes good and has the right carbonation.

Thanks for everybody's help, and I'll let you know how it turns out!
 
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