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TBLbrewer

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My system is hybrid gas/electric system. I'm running a 1650 watt 110 volt element. I designed it to use the propane at a very low setting to speed up heating, and maintain a boil. So, here's the issue. I installed a push button battery operated ignitor in the control panel, and ran the wires out to the electrode at the burner. I was doing my first water test today, and after several hours of doing various electric test, I tried to fire up the burner to see how much of a difference it would make. I pushed the button, and wham! All my ssr's turned off. The ssr for the pump still works, but the heater element ssr won't close. I should add that I'm using a BCS, and I am get 5 volts dc out of the BCS to the SSR. Did I fry my SSR. Is there a way to make the ignitor work in the control box, or am I going to have to figure out how to patch the hole in the panel when I remover the ignitor?
 
It is possible that you fried some component in your controller. Keep in mind that most burner igniter modules do their job with a high voltage arc at the burner. (Your unit might be different - but?) That high voltage spike within your control box is not something you want to have. The controller and the SSR are far to sensitive for that environment.

Now, if your igniter uses a glow heating element as the flame starter, it's another issue.

P-J
 
Definitely high voltage Arc. If I were to place a steel gang box over it, an connect a ground wire to the box, would this make it safe to have in the box?
 
Personally, I would not trust that puppy inside the controller box at all.

Now with that said: Please describe the igniter controller. Is it something that you can mount somewhere else and just deliver the control voltage (battery power through a pb switch) to it. Perhaps jumpering out the PB on the igniter?
 
I think your right. I could simply use a push button wired to the ignitor in place of the push button that is stock on the ignitor. Here are a few pics of the ignitor and my control box.

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image-2058712218.jpg



image-2384105738.jpg



image-1624476116.jpg
 
Now I understand. Definitely get that thing out of there. Just get a PB that fits your panel and use it to control the igniter someplace else.

P-J
 
I used an SSR from my smoker to replace the heater element SSR. That worked. I pulled the ignitor out of the box. I fired up the kettle element, let it run for a few minutes, and then fired up the burner. It still kicked off the kettle SSR. The only thing I can figure is that the kettle is grounded, and in contact with the metal burner stand which of course in contact with the ignitor electrode. I think I'm going to be stuck using a lighter.
 
I have one of those ignitors. It will arc all over the back of itself. Even through electrical tape. You have to coat and cover all the connections with silicone rtv.
 
I agree with P-J, get that thing out of there, figure out how to have it near the burner, with a short HV insulated wire like the grills have running to the ignotor...

but then have the contact for the battery be a button in your control box, AA battery can be either in the ignitor or in your panel... I personally think that having it wired to where the battery connects and run to your Control Panel, maybe see if 5V can operate it with a very small fuse, and you never need a battery..
 
I think I know what is happening. I'm using 1/8 inch mono head phone jack as the panel connection for my temp probes, and for the float switch connection. This means one leg of each of the 5 volt DC connections is in contact with the metal box. The metal box is ground as is the kettle. So I think the voltage from the ignitor is going up the ground wire from the kettle to the box, to the 5 volt dc side of the SSR.
 
Good news! I changed the connections for my thermocouples and the float valve. This seems to have solved the problem I was having.
 

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