Ok, my 25 year old electronics education is now failing me. Keep in mind that I was being a bit lazy in that I wired this thing as I went using what I can only figure was brazen overconfidence. After it didn't function the way I was expecting, I decided to trace everything and document what I did in this diagram. In order to not clutter the drawing, I left off the ground connections though everything is all bonded together correctly, just ignore that.
Intent... L14-30 coming in and also an L14-30R pass-through outlet. Since I often have to test other controllers, I wanted an accessible outlet since my actual outlet is a bit out of reach. That's just to explain why there would be an unswitched 4 wire outlet since it's not typical in any way.
There's also one switched 5-15R for the pump output and one that is always on for plugging my stir plate in as it will be closer to my brew station than any existing outlets.
I was trying to stay lean inside this box and therefore wanted to use the contactor as the element enable function and not use a second "main power" contactor. I used a NO key switch to interrupt the whole low current supply including power to the DSPR itself, the line side of both the pump switch and the element enable switch that finally feeds the contactor coil.
Now, on to the strange behavior. With the key switch off, pressing either the element enable or pump button will cause the DSPR to light up as well as the green "panel on" LED. Note that the contactor will not close with the key switch off.
With the key switch on and the pump switch off, I get 80 volts at the pump outlet. With the pump switch on I get 120v. The problem there is that the LED on that switch lights dim or bright, never off. Also since I'm using the Topsflo pump, the 120v to 24VDC pack puts out 24v in both states so I can't turn the pump off.
I was hoping I would immediately see the problem once I had it drawn out but I'm not seeing it. I need some fresh eyes on it please.
The contactor coil is rated at 120v. The blue and orange push button switches have NO contacts only and the built in LED is rated at 240v.
Intent... L14-30 coming in and also an L14-30R pass-through outlet. Since I often have to test other controllers, I wanted an accessible outlet since my actual outlet is a bit out of reach. That's just to explain why there would be an unswitched 4 wire outlet since it's not typical in any way.
There's also one switched 5-15R for the pump output and one that is always on for plugging my stir plate in as it will be closer to my brew station than any existing outlets.
I was trying to stay lean inside this box and therefore wanted to use the contactor as the element enable function and not use a second "main power" contactor. I used a NO key switch to interrupt the whole low current supply including power to the DSPR itself, the line side of both the pump switch and the element enable switch that finally feeds the contactor coil.
Now, on to the strange behavior. With the key switch off, pressing either the element enable or pump button will cause the DSPR to light up as well as the green "panel on" LED. Note that the contactor will not close with the key switch off.
With the key switch on and the pump switch off, I get 80 volts at the pump outlet. With the pump switch on I get 120v. The problem there is that the LED on that switch lights dim or bright, never off. Also since I'm using the Topsflo pump, the 120v to 24VDC pack puts out 24v in both states so I can't turn the pump off.
I was hoping I would immediately see the problem once I had it drawn out but I'm not seeing it. I need some fresh eyes on it please.
The contactor coil is rated at 120v. The blue and orange push button switches have NO contacts only and the built in LED is rated at 240v.