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I started brewing extract kits on the stovetop using a 16 qt. SS kettle from Wal Mart @ $12., since an extract boil is ~2.5 - 3 gal.; 2 plastic 6.5 gal buckets with lids and airlocks, one to ferment in, the other with spigot to rack into for bottling. Since gone to AG, but made some great beers starting out with some really simple equipment.
 
Ok. Fact is there are as many ways to make beer as there are beers to make! I've done killer brews in buckets. Keep them clean and take care of them and they'll do you fine. Full boils are great if you can afford all the gear, but not necessary, especially if you're doing extracts. Carboys are nice to have, either plastic or glass, but not necessary. If you're just starting out you can make some killer brews in just the basic bucket kit. Don't let all the brew "masters" convince you to spend your life savings if you don't want to.
 
If you have a gas stove, you can probably bring 7-8 gallons to a boil after about 30-40 minutes. If you supplement the stove with a 1000 watt (or more) heat stick, you can significantly reduce your time to boil and also increase the vigor of your boil.

I do 6 gallon stove top BIAB w/heat stick in a 10 gallon aluminum stock pot, slow chill (overnight in the kettle), ferment in a free 7.5 gallon bucket (use a blow-off).

Totally do able. Makes tasty beer.
 
Ok I am getting mixed opinions here, and I think I understand why. It was not clear to you guys if I wanted to start doing malt extract or all grain brews.

Basically, I want to start with malt extract brews. Eventually, I will do all-grain but now, just extract.

Do I need a propane burner and a 10g kettle, or can I just get a 8g kettle and boil using my electric stove? The guy at the store told me I can't do this on the stove and that I need at least a 10g kettle , but the howtobrew book and bunch of people seem to do it on the stove... What am I missing here?

Someone on this thread said that for malt extract, I do not need a full boil (what does that even mean?) and that I can use my regular stove.

Can you guys point me in the right direction please? :)

Thanks
 
I do all grain on my stove in a 7.5gallon turkey fryer. Not doing a full boil he means boil your extract in a manageable amount of water then top off the fermenter to the final volume you desire. You certainly do not need a propane burner and 10g pot to do extract brewing.
 
My very first brew was an extract recipe that I attempted on an electric stove. It took FOREVER to heat up even 3 gallons of water (partial boil, I topped it off in the fermenter) and it was not strong enough to bring it to a boil (temp got to 209 and wouldn't budge) unless I put the lid on the pot, which I've read is a no-no. I immediate ordered a gas burner and it has been great. You just have to move your operation outside. Hope this helps.
 
No, there is no need for a 10 gallon kettle and propane burner for extract brewing. But if you think you will be going AG in the future, I'd get the bigger kettle from the get go, unless you like buying things twice.
 
I use both glass carboys and plastic buckets. The buckets came from the local grocery stores bakery dept. Only issue is you need to clean them and make sure there are no scratches on the inside. I probably have made 10 ferments in the buckets and never had an issue. These buckets are free and if you go this route you will need to drill a hole in the lid for a rubber grommet for the airlock.
Also, you will need to secure the lid with tape. I use duck tape and never had an issue with the lid popping off, except for the first time. these lids tend not to seal completely. As long as you practice good cleaning and sanitizing you should have no problems.
 
Basically, I want to start with malt extract brews. Eventually, I will do all-grain but now, just extract.

Do I need a propane burner and a 10g kettle, or can I just get a 8g kettle and boil using my electric stove? The guy at the store told me I can't do this on the stove and that I need at least a 10g kettle , but the howtobrew book and bunch of people seem to do it on the stove... What am I missing here?

Someone on this thread said that for malt extract, I do not need a full boil (what does that even mean?) and that I can use my regular stove.

Thanks

1) For extract you do not need a 10 gallon kettle, the smallest that would work is 4 gallons, (12$ USD at walmart).

2) My electric stove will boil 3 gallons, but it takes a while.

3) Standard practice is to have a full boil. I think the previous poster meant that it doesn't have to be a vigorous boil, which is correct. Vigorous is preferred but not necessary. In other words don't worry about it just turn you stove up all the way.

4) I saw the guy at the homebrew store said you can't use a plastic bucket. That couldn't be further from the truth, just clean it well, sanitize it and put the lid on. Just buy a 6.5 gal bucket, a lid with a hole and an airlock. He's trying to sell you more expensive stuff, you can always buy a nice glass carboy later. Plastic will work fine.
 
I do all grain on my stove in a 7.5gallon turkey fryer. Not doing a full boil he means boil your extract in a manageable amount of water then top off the fermenter to the final volume you desire. You certainly do not need a propane burner and 10g pot to do extract brewing.

Thanks a bunch, I get it now!

Two more questions:

1) The fermentor... For 5g batches, how big of a carboy do I need? For buckets, I read it is 6.5G, but the guy at the store told me it still won't work and might contaminate my beer...

2) The beer kit they were selling at this store is for 23L batches. 23L = 6G... This isn't a 5G batch now is it?

Thanks!
 
When the beer ferments it creates a a giant head called a krausen, which temporarily fills 1 - 2 gallons of headspace. If you were to put 5 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon fermentor the krausen would push out the airlock and spill over creating a huge mess, hence why you typically use 6-6.5 gallon fermentors for a 5 gallon batch.

Once again I've fermented in plastic buckets probably 20 times and never had an infection, or any sort of problem. I prefer now glass because I can watch the fermentation and it's better for aging.
 
Man, this thread is just a sh*t show of mixed messages (everybody is trying to be helpful and giving good advice, but there's just too much conflicting advice being put forth). With that said, here's what I think... ;)

Brewing can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be, from equipment to process to recipes and beyond. You, as a brand new brewer, probably want to keep it as simple as possible for your first few times out, and then begin to build up the details. With that in mind, I wouldn't purchase any of the really big stuff just yet. (The folks that are suggesting large kettles/propane burners/etc. are doing so because you will likely want those things down the road, and obviously it will save you money and hassle if you already have them at that point. I, on the other hand, bought those things later, and to this day still have uses for my beginning equipment.) So, if the goal is to make beer and get acquainted with the process, and have the basic materials necessary to get your brewery up and running, here is my suggested list:

1. A kettle -- don't overthink this for now. Yes, you'll probably want a bigger one later, but for extract kits that use partial volume boils, even a cheap 5 gallon aluminum pot will work. YES, you can use it on the stove. It may come to a boil slower, but unless you're on an incredibly tight schedule, you can surely spare the extra 15 minutes. Also make sure you have a metal or plastic spoon long enough to stir with.

2. Star San and a cheap spray bottle -- Star San is essential for sanitizing your equipment at every step after the boil. The easiest way to use it is to mix it with water at the indicated ratio and put some in a spray bottle/mister. Then you can easily spray down any surface or tool that you need sanitized.

3. TWO 6.5 gallon plastic buckets with spigots, plus at least one airlock -- these work just fine as fermentors. Do your full fermentation schedule in the first bucket (no transfer for secondary; there are threads galore about that on here), then transfer via the spigot to the second bucket for bottling. Ignore anyone who says you can't make beer in these. That's an outright lie, as evidenced by countless homebrewers who make consistently excellent beer using buckets. You may end up *preferring* a different kind of fermentor down the line, but these are your best bet up front.

4. A few (maybe 5) feet of tubing -- you attach this to the spigot of your fermenting bucket to transfer your finished beer to the bottling bucket without excessive splashing, then attach it to the bottling bucket spigot for bottling (make sure it is kept sanitary). Just make sure it is the correct size to fit your spigots and bottling wand. 5/16" diameter works well for my equipment.

5. Bottling wand -- presumably you are bottling, so this in an essential. Cheap and easy to use.

6. Bottles and bottle caps -- my suggestion? Go drink a bunch of good beer and save all the bottles that have pry-off caps (can't use twist-offs, sadly). You'll need somewhere between 40-50 bottles. Caps aren't reusable, but you can purchase them from your lhbs or online retailer very cheaply.

7. Bottle capper -- Get the cheap red wing capper. I bottled for several years before moving on to kegging, and I used the same capper the whole time.

8. Recipe Kit -- this one's a no-brainer, of course, but you'll need ingredients! Order a kit from somewhere reputable like Northern Brewer, or take a chance on your lhbs' kits. They should come with extract, hops (keep frozen until use), yeast (keep refrigerated until use), corn [priming] sugar for bottling, and instructions. Follow the instructions as closely as you can, except when they inevitably tell you to transfer to a secondary fermentor (just leave it where it is until bottling time, it will be perfectly fine). Also, you will see lots of scary complicated information about water chemistry if you look around. Luckily, extract kits are best done with store-bought distilled water, which eliminates your worries on that front.


I hope this helps. It's great that you have put so much thought and effort into getting prepared, but it's also important that you not overthink it in the beginning. This basic equipment will get you on your feet, and when you have done it once or twice you will have a much clearer picture of what you need beyond that.
 
Man, this thread is just a sh*t show of mixed messages (everybody is trying to be helpful and giving good advice, but there's just too much conflicting advice being put forth). With that said, here's what I think... ;)

Brewing can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be, from equipment to process to recipes and beyond. You, as a brand new brewer, probably want to keep it as simple as possible for your first few times out, and then begin to build up the details. With that in mind, I wouldn't purchase any of the really big stuff just yet. (The folks that are suggesting large kettles/propane burners/etc. are doing so because you will likely want those things down the road, and obviously it will save you money and hassle if you already have them at that point. I, on the other hand, bought those things later, and to this day still have uses for my beginning equipment.) So, if the goal is to make beer and get acquainted with the process, and have the basic materials necessary to get your brewery up and running, here is my suggested list:

1. A kettle -- don't overthink this for now. Yes, you'll probably want a bigger one later, but for extract kits that use partial volume boils, even a cheap 5 gallon aluminum pot will work. YES, you can use it on the stove. It may come to a boil slower, but unless you're on an incredibly tight schedule, you can surely spare the extra 15 minutes. Also make sure you have a metal or plastic spoon long enough to stir with.

2. Star San and a cheap spray bottle -- Star San is essential for sanitizing your equipment at every step after the boil. The easiest way to use it is to mix it with water at the indicated ratio and put some in a spray bottle/mister. Then you can easily spray down any surface or tool that you need sanitized.

3. TWO 6.5 gallon plastic buckets with spigots, plus at least one airlock -- these work just fine as fermentors. Do your full fermentation schedule in the first bucket (no transfer for secondary; there are threads galore about that on here), then transfer via the spigot to the second bucket for bottling. Ignore anyone who says you can't make beer in these. That's an outright lie, as evidenced by countless homebrewers who make consistently excellent beer using buckets. You may end up *preferring* a different kind of fermentor down the line, but these are your best bet up front.

4. A few (maybe 5) feet of tubing -- you attach this to the spigot of your fermenting bucket to transfer your finished beer to the bottling bucket without excessive splashing, then attach it to the bottling bucket spigot for bottling (make sure it is kept sanitary). Just make sure it is the correct size to fit your spigots and bottling wand. 5/16" diameter works well for my equipment.

5. Bottling wand -- presumably you are bottling, so this in an essential. Cheap and easy to use.

6. Bottles and bottle caps -- my suggestion? Go drink a bunch of good beer and save all the bottles that have pry-off caps (can't use twist-offs, sadly). You'll need somewhere between 40-50 bottles. Caps aren't reusable, but you can purchase them from your lhbs or online retailer very cheaply.

7. Bottle capper -- Get the cheap red wing capper. I bottled for several years before moving on to kegging, and I used the same capper the whole time.

8. Recipe Kit -- this one's a no-brainer, of course, but you'll need ingredients! Order a kit from somewhere reputable like Northern Brewer, or take a chance on your lhbs' kits. They should come with extract, hops (keep frozen until use), yeast (keep refrigerated until use), corn [priming] sugar for bottling, and instructions. Follow the instructions as closely as you can, except when they inevitably tell you to transfer to a secondary fermentor (just leave it where it is until bottling time, it will be perfectly fine). Also, you will see lots of scary complicated information about water chemistry if you look around. Luckily, extract kits are best done with store-bought distilled water, which eliminates your worries on that front.


I hope this helps. It's great that you have put so much thought and effort into getting prepared, but it's also important that you not overthink it in the beginning. This basic equipment will get you on your feet, and when you have done it once or twice you will have a much clearer picture of what you need beyond that.

Oh man, thank you so much for explaining so clearly for such a noob like me! You answer pretty much all questions I had!

Here are a few questions for you:

1) Extract kits... At the store, they sell 6G (23L) kits... Have you ever seen this?

2) What's the user of a secondary fermenter? I don't think I understand this part.

3) The starting kit they sell at the store includes 2 5G plastic carboys. Can these replace the buckets? He actually sells the kit at a very good price.

Thanks again :D :ban::ban:
 
1) Yes, and with boil off and trub loss and water addition, you will probably end up with 5 or 5.5 gallons.

2) I think the point was to rack off of the trub and let the fermentation finish and "clean up" resulting in clearer beer, although it's been proven time and again that it's not necessary and offers another opportunity for contamination.

3) Yes, but it will still be better to have a bottling bucket for that part. Bottling directly from a carboy will be a pain. If both carboys are for fermentation or primary/secondary, then you will have two fermentation vessels and can have two batches going at once.
 
1) Yes, and with boil off and trub loss and water addition, you will probably end up with 5 or 5.5 gallons.

2) I think the point was to rack off of the trub and let the fermentation finish and "clean up" resulting in clearer beer, although it's been proven time and again that it's not necessary and offers another opportunity for contamination.

3) Yes, but it will still be better to have a bottling bucket for that part. Bottling directly from a carboy will be a pain. If both carboys are for fermentation or primary/secondary, then you will have two fermentation vessels and can have two batches going at once.

More questions:

1) Will it fit in a regular 5G carboy?

3) What if the carboys have spigots? Will it work or should I still get at least one bucket with a spigot? Are spigots necessary at all, I just learned about them lol
 
3) The starting kit they sell at the store includes 2 5G plastic carboys. Can these replace the buckets? He actually sells the kit at a very good price.

Thanks again :D :ban::ban:

For a 5 gallon brew you will want bigger than 5 gallon, you need some head space there or you will have a mess on your hands. I do 5-6 gallon brews in my 7.9 gallon Spiedel, and 7 gallon Fermonster.
 
More questions:

1) Will it fit in a regular 5G carboy?

3) What if the carboys have spigots? Will it work or should I still get at least one bucket with a spigot? Are spigots necessary at all, I just learned about them lol

Basically assume that for any size batch, you need a fermentor that is a bit bigger. That's because (as you will see once you brew your first) yeast activity creates a thick layer of foam, called "krausen," on top of the liquid surface, so you need some additional fermentor capacity ("headspace") to accomodate it. That's why I recommended the 6.5 gallon bucket for fermenting a 5 gallon batch. It may also work for a 23L batch from your lhbs as well, although you'd be cutting it pretty close. For this reason, I would recommend picking up the equipment I listed in my previous post, and getting a 5 gallon kit to start, so you can have a foolproof first go. (Even if it means not buying your lhbs' kit this time around.)

As for spigots, they just make life a million times easier. If you get a fermentor without a spigot, you will need an additional piece of equipment called an auto-siphon to manually transfer your beer. It isn't hard to work with (although it's not ideal for bottling), but I don't see any good reason for adding extra pieces when spigots are so much more straightforward (auto-siphons don't do anything that your spigot doesn't). If you can find 6.5 gallon plastic carboys with spigots, and you prefer that aesthetic to the buckets, then you can go that route. It really won't make a difference either way. (People have debated the relative merits of buckets vs carboys plenty, but in my experience you can make great beer in either one).
 
Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again :)
 
Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again :)

I like the 3 piece airlock vs the "S" type. BTW, I learned the hard way to use a "blow-off" tube for the first few days of very active fermentation otherwise you risk having the airlock clog and blowing off.
 
Oh man, thank you so much for explaining so clearly for such a noob like me! You answer pretty much all questions I had!

Here are a few questions for you:

1) Extract kits... At the store, they sell 6G (23L) kits... Have you ever seen this?

2) What's the user of a secondary fermenter? I don't think I understand this part.

3) The starting kit they sell at the store includes 2 5G plastic carboys. Can these replace the buckets? He actually sells the kit at a very good price.

Thanks again :D :ban::ban:

1) Most extract kits are made for a final volume of 5 gallons in the US. Other places may vary. Usually you only boil half of the total then top up with water to the final volume.

2) Secondary fermentation is really just a clearing stage. Most homebrewers no longer include this step. Ferment in the primary until final gravity is reached, wait another few days then bottle.

3) Get a 6 gallon or more fermenter for 5 gallons and 7 gallons or more for a 6 gallon kit. 5 gallon fermenters are not very useful.

More questions:

1) Will it fit in a regular 5G carboy?

3) What if the carboys have spigots? Will it work or should I still get at least one bucket with a spigot? Are spigots necessary at all, I just learned about them lol

1) NO! a 5 gallon batch cannot be fermented in a 5 gallon fermenter. A previous reply described the foam created during fermentation, it needs space!!!

3) I have a bottling bucket with a spigot. I do not suggest fermenting in a bucket with a spigot. I don't trust a plastic spigot for that long and it is a place for contaminates to hide.

Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again :)

I have both. The 3 piece can be used with some tubing to make a blow off tube. They are easier to break.

They are both useful and cheap, get a few of each.
 
Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again :)

I'd go with a blow off tube :ban:
 
Another question: are racking canes required when using a spigot with a tube for bottling?

Thanks!
 
Another question: are racking canes required when using a spigot with a tube for bottling?

Thanks!

Not required. Not even useful if you have spigots. Do make sure you have a bottling wand, though.

Also, although it's been answered already, let me reassure you that it doesn't matter which type of airlock you use. Most of us end up having a default preference (I mostly use the S style air locks), but let me stress again that it does not matter. And frankly, as others have said, you're probably better off with a blow-off tube for fermentation anyway (just run a length of tubing directly out of the grommet/hole in your fermentor's lid and submerge the other end in a container of StarSan solution). It's easy and it eliminates any worry about too much krausen/pressure build up during a vigorous fermentation.
 
You'll want to make sure you have the right size tubing for a blow off tube, and really that can serve as your airlock. But if you would like to switch to an airlock after fermentation has slowed down, either will work. They are cheep, buy both and pick your favorite. I personally like the 3 piece.
 
Ok, I just ordered a kit I built myself. Overall, I think I am pretty much covered for 5g malt extract. Here is a summary of my purchase:

Code:
1x 5g stainless steel brew kettle
1x 6.5 gallon bucket drilled + spigot for bottling
1x 6.5 gallon fermenting bucket + lid + bung hole + rubber stopper + 3piece airlock
1x bottle filler
1x 5ft hose + bottle filler

1x bottle capper + 144 caps
1x lab thermometer
1x long plastic brewing spoon
1x bottle brush
1x hydrometer + hydro test jar
1x Five Star brewery wash
1x Star san

That's it! I hope I have everything. Can't wait to receive my kit!!!

Do you guys know of any real good malt extract kits I can buy that is easy to follow for a first brew?

Thanks again for everything!
 
Ok, I just ordered a kit I built myself. Overall, I think I am pretty much covered for 5g malt extract. Here is a summary of my purchase:

Code:
1x 5g stainless steel brew kettle
1x 6.5 gallon bucket drilled + spigot for bottling
1x 6.5 gallon fermenting bucket + lid + bung hole + rubber stopper + 3piece airlock
1x bottle filler
1x 5ft hose + bottle filler

1x bottle capper + 144 caps
1x lab thermometer
1x long plastic brewing spoon
1x bottle brush
1x hydrometer + hydro test jar
1x Five Star brewery wash
1x Star san

That's it! I hope I have everything. Can't wait to receive my kit!!!

Do you guys know of any real good malt extract kits I can buy that is easy to follow for a first brew?

Thanks again for everything!

Looks pretty complete! One thing -- did you get your "fermenting bucket" with a spigot as well? (I have never understood the point of sellers pretending that the spigots are only for "bottling buckets," while "fermenting buckets" don't have them). I would seriously recommend getting ALL your buckets with a spigot. If you didn't in this case, you actually will need an auto-siphon for racking, which I don't see on your list.

You asked us about this earlier, but I didn't realize from that question that you would only be getting one bucket with a spigot.

As for malt extract kits, Northern Brewer has a very reliable selection of good kits, making them a safe choice for your maiden voyage. I'd suggest going with something malt-forward and not-too-ambitious for your first time out, to learn the ropes. My first brew many years ago was their Smashing Pumpkin ale kit, and I loved it. http://www.northernbrewer.com/smashing-pumpkin-ale-extract-kit
 
Ok I am getting mixed opinions here, and I think I understand why. It was not clear to you guys if I wanted to start doing malt extract or all grain brews.

Basically, I want to start with malt extract brews. Eventually, I will do all-grain but now, just extract.

Do I need a propane burner and a 10g kettle, or can I just get a 8g kettle and boil using my electric stove? The guy at the store told me I can't do this on the stove and that I need at least a 10g kettle , but the howtobrew book and bunch of people seem to do it on the stove... What am I missing here?

Someone on this thread said that for malt extract, I do not need a full boil (what does that even mean?) and that I can use my regular stove.

Can you guys point me in the right direction please? :)

Thanks

He means you can just boil up a super strong batch of extract (say 3 gallons) and then when you transfer to your carboy you can just add water (another 2.5 gallons). A full boil is when you boil all the water and all the extract together and do not add any when you transfer to the fermenter.

That said, dude, I was in your position several years back and I will give you the advice I wish I'd had then (before I waited a whole year saving money for a 10 gallon, three vessel rig).

Lately I have been doing 1 gallon BIAB on my stove top. Here's what it takes, and what I think you should concentrate your efforts on, in three phases:


Phase One
1. 3 gallon SS pot of any quality (I got one for $4 at a yardsale)
2. a BIAB bag that fits
3. a cheap mill (or better yet, just have your grain milled extra fine at the LHBS)
4. an auto syphon
5. a 5L wine bottle or something that will accept a bung and airlock, with of at least 1.5g of capacity
6. a scale that goes down to the tenth of a gram
7. Two 1L fliptop growlers
8. Hydrometer
9. Spirits Based Thermometer

With this setup you can mash (soak grain in water), boil the full volume, chill in your sink, transfer to your fermenter, and then transfer to your fliptops and prime with 4oz of sugar each to come out with two full growlers at the end of the day. It works great.

Phase Two
1. pH Meter
2. Refractometer
3. mL dropper (forget what they're called - for adding acid)
4. Acid, Calcium Chloride, etc (all the chemicals listed in Brew'n Water, which you should DL now and read, then use later)
5. Mini fridge with temperature controller (control that fermentation temperature)

This will allow you to build your water from RO or distilled according to the profiles built into Brew'n Water, test your pH results during mash, and control your fermentation temperature. At this point, if you're doing it all right, you'll be making some nice beers. Try to start with easy grain bills and stay away from big Stouts, IIIPAs, etc. Centennial Blonde is tried and true and I still brew it to this day, regularly.

Phase Three
1. Nice Grainmill
2. Three Vessel SS brewhouse with pumps, sightglasses, false bottoms, quick disconnects, valves, etc.
3. Nice chiller
4. Two Carboys or SS Buckets
5. Full size fridge with controller (to ferment)
6. Convert your old mini fridge into a kegerator
7. Co2 tank
8. Taps, etc
9. Bulk Grain
10. Bulk Hops (the one you like best and will be using most - Cascade??)
11. 55lb scale for grain and hops

Now you're set to do as you were with your advanced 1 gallon BIAB, but for 10 gallon batches.

IMO you don't need to bother with extract. The difference between dumping powder into water and dumping crushed grain into water and waiting an hour is negligible when you're BIAB. Like Imentioned, it might be more rewarding early on if you focus on simple grainbills (blonde, cream ale, pale ale, etc).

Cheers!
 
He means you can just boil up a super strong batch of extract (say 3 gallons) and then when you transfer to your carboy you can just add water (another 2.5 gallons). A full boil is when you boil all the water and all the extract together and do not add any when you transfer to the fermenter.

That said, dude, I was in your position several years back and I will give you the advice I wish I'd had then (before I waited a whole year saving money for a 10 gallon, three vessel rig).

Lately I have been doing 1 gallon BIAB on my stove top. Here's what it takes, and what I think you should concentrate your efforts on, in three phases:


Phase One
1. 3 gallon SS pot of any quality (I got one for $4 at a yardsale)
2. a BIAB bag that fits
3. a cheap mill (or better yet, just have your grain milled extra fine at the LHBS)
4. an auto syphon
5. a 5L wine bottle or something that will accept a bung and airlock, with of at least 1.5g of capacity
6. a scale that goes down to the tenth of a gram
7. Two 1L fliptop growlers
8. Hydrometer
9. Spirits Based Thermometer

With this setup you can mash (soak grain in water), boil the full volume, chill in your sink, transfer to your fermenter, and then transfer to your fliptops and prime with 4oz of sugar each to come out with two full growlers at the end of the day. It works great.

Phase Two
1. pH Meter
2. Refractometer
3. mL dropper (forget what they're called - for adding acid)
4. Acid, Calcium Chloride, etc (all the chemicals listed in Brew'n Water, which you should DL now and read, then use later)
5. Mini fridge with temperature controller (control that fermentation temperature)

This will allow you to build your water from RO or distilled according to the profiles built into Brew'n Water, test your pH results during mash, and control your fermentation temperature. At this point, if you're doing it all right, you'll be making some nice beers. Try to start with easy grain bills and stay away from big Stouts, IIIPAs, etc. Centennial Blonde is tried and true and I still brew it to this day, regularly.

Phase Three
1. Nice Grainmill
2. Three Vessel SS brewhouse with pumps, sightglasses, false bottoms, quick disconnects, valves, etc.
3. Nice chiller
4. Two Carboys or SS Buckets
5. Full size fridge with controller (to ferment)
6. Convert your old mini fridge into a kegerator
7. Co2 tank
8. Taps, etc
9. Bulk Grain
10. Bulk Hops (the one you like best and will be using most - Cascade??)
11. 55lb scale for grain and hops

Now you're set to do as you were with your advanced 1 gallon BIAB, but for 10 gallon batches.

IMO you don't need to bother with extract. The difference between dumping powder into water and dumping crushed grain into water and waiting an hour is negligible when you're BIAB. Like Imentioned, it might be more rewarding early on if you focus on simple grainbills (blonde, cream ale, pale ale, etc).

Cheers!

I like your list.
Phase 2 part 3 is called pipettes.

I agree with most of what you said. It's a natural progression in home brewing.

I would still recommend trying extract early on. It simplifies a few steps and makes it easier to understand the process. All-grain is not that complicated, and I definitely recommend upgrading to all-grain after a few batches. But extract is easier, especially in terms of cooling the wort - just dilute it with cold water.

My list for Phase One would be:

Phase One
1. 3 gallon SS pot of any quality (I got one for $4 at a yardsale)
[I would get 5 Gallon pot (for 5G batches), and get Aluminum - it's cheaper than SS and works just as well]. Maybe $60 new, $0-$30 used.

2. a BIAB bag that fits
[OR - brew 1-3 extract beers first and not worry about it]
$0

3. a cheap mill (or better yet, just have your grain milled extra fine at the LHBS)

[again, just use extract first. You really don't need a mill if your homebrewmart has a decent mill]
$0

4. an auto syphon
[You definitely need an auto siphon]
$10-15 or so?

5. a 5L wine bottle or something that will accept a bung and airlock, with of at least 1.5g of capacity
[I would get a 6G or 7G PET fermentor. Glass is nice but get PET plastic. You can use the plastic bucket but I would invest in a fermentor. 7G Fermonster would be my pick]
$30 or so

6. a scale that goes down to the tenth of a gram
[agreed - good for measuring hops etc.]
$10-15.

7. Two 1L flip top growlers
[I would start collecting bottles. 12oz, 22oz even better]
free - after you drink the beer they come with.

8. Hydrometer
[you do need this, as well as hydrometer jar]
$15-20

9. Spirits Based Thermometer
[yes, you will need thermometer, but I would argue you may go with electronic one (thermocouple based), it will make more sense in the long run. But alcohol based thermometer may be useful too if you already have it]
$10-30

I would add starsan, bottling equipment (capper - maybe just wing capper to start with, but I also like bottle washer and bottle tree), wine thief, bottling bucket, funnel, sieve.

For Stage 2: (going all-grain)
I would recommend a dedicated mashtun (I think it still makes perfect sense - about $60 to convert 70qt Coleman Cooler into one) - but BIAB is fine too.

Now you definitely need a thermometer. I would say pH meter and acids/minerals are optional unless your water is really bad, or you are really into somewhat complicated chemistry. What is more important is temperature control (especially if you can't have ambient at 65+-5F), and immersion chiller or some other way to chill the wort, quickly. (probably $50 if you DYI, and $100 if you buy one).

If you need temp control, you may need to purchase a freezer that can fit a fermentor or two and hook it up with temperature controller, super easy. Maybe another $100-$150 for freezer and $30 or so for temp controller.
The fermentor chamber can double as beer cellar in between your brews. If you do have such gap.
 
@55X11 Fair enough...I honestly haven't ever brewed an extract batch so I really can't say how much easier it is, but my first attempt at all grain came out, even after boil overs, missing mash temp, etc, really great.

I think your plan sounds fine as well, I just have really been enjoying brewing small batches lately....in the kitchen...in my boxers...lol.
 
Your local homebrew store would be a good place to start also.

If you read through those first several pages of the thread, he has been to his lhbs and received some suggestions and guidance there. I think he was asking us in order to see if there was any insight that the guy at the lhbs may have simply missed or left out.
 
There does not seem to be a lot of extract recipes over the net.. Do you guys know where I can find them?

Thanks!
 
Are you looking for just a recipe or do you want to buy a kit w/ ingredients as well ?
 
There does not seem to be a lot of extract recipes over the net.. Do you guys know where I can find them?

Thanks!

Here you go.

This should get you a very similar beer:

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.57 gal
Estimated OG: 1.044 SG
Estimated Color: 3.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 16.8 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 83.3 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 16.7 %
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (45 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (20 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale
 

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