Complete noob

[Brownalemikie]

Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again

I like the 3 piece airlock vs the "S" type. BTW, I learned the hard way to use a "blow-off" tube for the first few days of very active fermentation otherwise you risk having the airlock clog and blowing off.

 

[kh54s10]

Oh man, thank you so much for explaining so clearly for such a noob like me! You answer pretty much all questions I had!

Here are a few questions for you:

1) Extract kits... At the store, they sell 6G (23L) kits... Have you ever seen this?

2) What's the user of a secondary fermenter? I don't think I understand this part.

3) The starting kit they sell at the store includes 2 5G plastic carboys. Can these replace the buckets? He actually sells the kit at a very good price.

Thanks again

1) Most extract kits are made for a final volume of 5 gallons in the US. Other places may vary. Usually you only boil half of the total then top up with water to the final volume.

2) Secondary fermentation is really just a clearing stage. Most homebrewers no longer include this step. Ferment in the primary until final gravity is reached, wait another few days then bottle.

3) Get a 6 gallon or more fermenter for 5 gallons and 7 gallons or more for a 6 gallon kit. 5 gallon fermenters are not very useful.

More questions:

1) Will it fit in a regular 5G carboy?

3) What if the carboys have spigots? Will it work or should I still get at least one bucket with a spigot? Are spigots necessary at all, I just learned about them lol

1) NO! a 5 gallon batch cannot be fermented in a 5 gallon fermenter. A previous reply described the foam created during fermentation, it needs space!!!

3) I have a bottling bucket with a spigot. I do not suggest fermenting in a bucket with a spigot. I don't trust a plastic spigot for that long and it is a place for contaminates to hide.

Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again

I have both. The 3 piece can be used with some tubing to make a blow off tube. They are easier to break.

They are both useful and cheap, get a few of each.

 

[jddevinn]

Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again

I'd go with a blow off tube

 

[DonnyBenét]

Another question: are racking canes required when using a spigot with a tube for bottling?

Thanks!

 

[JordanKnudson]

Another question: are racking canes required when using a spigot with a tube for bottling?

Thanks!

Not required. Not even useful if you have spigots. Do make sure you have a bottling wand, though.

Also, although it's been answered already, let me reassure you that it doesn't matter which type of airlock you use. Most of us end up having a default preference (I mostly use the S style air locks), but let me stress again that it does not matter. And frankly, as others have said, you're probably better off with a blow-off tube for fermentation anyway (just run a length of tubing directly out of the grommet/hole in your fermentor's lid and submerge the other end in a container of StarSan solution). It's easy and it eliminates any worry about too much krausen/pressure build up during a vigorous fermentation.

 

[PADave]

You'll want to make sure you have the right size tubing for a blow off tube, and really that can serve as your airlock. But if you would like to switch to an airlock after fermentation has slowed down, either will work. They are cheep, buy both and pick your favorite. I personally like the 3 piece.

 

[DonnyBenét]

Ok, I just ordered a kit I built myself. Overall, I think I am pretty much covered for 5g malt extract. Here is a summary of my purchase:

1x 5g stainless steel brew kettle
1x 6.5 gallon bucket drilled + spigot for bottling
1x 6.5 gallon fermenting bucket + lid + bung hole + rubber stopper + 3piece airlock
1x bottle filler
1x 5ft hose + bottle filler

1x bottle capper + 144 caps
1x lab thermometer
1x long plastic brewing spoon
1x bottle brush
1x hydrometer + hydro test jar
1x Five Star brewery wash
1x Star san

That's it! I hope I have everything. Can't wait to receive my kit!!!

Do you guys know of any real good malt extract kits I can buy that is easy to follow for a first brew?

Thanks again for everything!

 

[JordanKnudson]

Ok, I just ordered a kit I built myself. Overall, I think I am pretty much covered for 5g malt extract. Here is a summary of my purchase:

1x 5g stainless steel brew kettle
1x 6.5 gallon bucket drilled + spigot for bottling
1x 6.5 gallon fermenting bucket + lid + bung hole + rubber stopper + 3piece airlock
1x bottle filler
1x 5ft hose + bottle filler

1x bottle capper + 144 caps
1x lab thermometer
1x long plastic brewing spoon
1x bottle brush
1x hydrometer + hydro test jar
1x Five Star brewery wash
1x Star san

That's it! I hope I have everything. Can't wait to receive my kit!!!

Do you guys know of any real good malt extract kits I can buy that is easy to follow for a first brew?

Thanks again for everything!

Looks pretty complete! One thing -- did you get your "fermenting bucket" with a spigot as well? (I have never understood the point of sellers pretending that the spigots are only for "bottling buckets," while "fermenting buckets" don't have them). I would seriously recommend getting ALL your buckets with a spigot. If you didn't in this case, you actually will need an auto-siphon for racking, which I don't see on your list.

You asked us about this earlier, but I didn't realize from that question that you would only be getting one bucket with a spigot.

As for malt extract kits, Northern Brewer has a very reliable selection of good kits, making them a safe choice for your maiden voyage. I'd suggest going with something malt-forward and not-too-ambitious for your first time out, to learn the ropes. My first brew many years ago was their Smashing Pumpkin ale kit, and I loved it. http://www.northernbrewer.com/smashing-pumpkin-ale-extract-kit

 

[normonster]

Ok I am getting mixed opinions here, and I think I understand why. It was not clear to you guys if I wanted to start doing malt extract or all grain brews.

Basically, I want to start with malt extract brews. Eventually, I will do all-grain but now, just extract.

Do I need a propane burner and a 10g kettle, or can I just get a 8g kettle and boil using my electric stove? The guy at the store told me I can't do this on the stove and that I need at least a 10g kettle , but the howtobrew book and bunch of people seem to do it on the stove... What am I missing here?

Someone on this thread said that for malt extract, I do not need a full boil (what does that even mean?) and that I can use my regular stove.

Can you guys point me in the right direction please?

Thanks

He means you can just boil up a super strong batch of extract (say 3 gallons) and then when you transfer to your carboy you can just add water (another 2.5 gallons). A full boil is when you boil all the water and all the extract together and do not add any when you transfer to the fermenter.

That said, dude, I was in your position several years back and I will give you the advice I wish I'd had then (before I waited a whole year saving money for a 10 gallon, three vessel rig).

Lately I have been doing 1 gallon BIAB on my stove top. Here's what it takes, and what I think you should concentrate your efforts on, in three phases:


Phase One
1. 3 gallon SS pot of any quality (I got one for $4 at a yardsale)
2. a BIAB bag that fits
3. a cheap mill (or better yet, just have your grain milled extra fine at the LHBS)
4. an auto syphon
5. a 5L wine bottle or something that will accept a bung and airlock, with of at least 1.5g of capacity
6. a scale that goes down to the tenth of a gram
7. Two 1L fliptop growlers
8. Hydrometer
9. Spirits Based Thermometer

With this setup you can mash (soak grain in water), boil the full volume, chill in your sink, transfer to your fermenter, and then transfer to your fliptops and prime with 4oz of sugar each to come out with two full growlers at the end of the day. It works great.

Phase Two
1. pH Meter
2. Refractometer
3. mL dropper (forget what they're called - for adding acid)
4. Acid, Calcium Chloride, etc (all the chemicals listed in Brew'n Water, which you should DL now and read, then use later)
5. Mini fridge with temperature controller (control that fermentation temperature)

This will allow you to build your water from RO or distilled according to the profiles built into Brew'n Water, test your pH results during mash, and control your fermentation temperature. At this point, if you're doing it all right, you'll be making some nice beers. Try to start with easy grain bills and stay away from big Stouts, IIIPAs, etc. Centennial Blonde is tried and true and I still brew it to this day, regularly.

Phase Three
1. Nice Grainmill
2. Three Vessel SS brewhouse with pumps, sightglasses, false bottoms, quick disconnects, valves, etc.
3. Nice chiller
4. Two Carboys or SS Buckets
5. Full size fridge with controller (to ferment)
6. Convert your old mini fridge into a kegerator
7. Co2 tank
8. Taps, etc
9. Bulk Grain
10. Bulk Hops (the one you like best and will be using most - Cascade??)
11. 55lb scale for grain and hops

Now you're set to do as you were with your advanced 1 gallon BIAB, but for 10 gallon batches.

IMO you don't need to bother with extract. The difference between dumping powder into water and dumping crushed grain into water and waiting an hour is negligible when you're BIAB. Like Imentioned, it might be more rewarding early on if you focus on simple grainbills (blonde, cream ale, pale ale, etc).

Cheers!

 

[55x11]

He means you can just boil up a super strong batch of extract (say 3 gallons) and then when you transfer to your carboy you can just add water (another 2.5 gallons). A full boil is when you boil all the water and all the extract together and do not add any when you transfer to the fermenter.

That said, dude, I was in your position several years back and I will give you the advice I wish I'd had then (before I waited a whole year saving money for a 10 gallon, three vessel rig).

Lately I have been doing 1 gallon BIAB on my stove top. Here's what it takes, and what I think you should concentrate your efforts on, in three phases:


Phase One
1. 3 gallon SS pot of any quality (I got one for $4 at a yardsale)
2. a BIAB bag that fits
3. a cheap mill (or better yet, just have your grain milled extra fine at the LHBS)
4. an auto syphon
5. a 5L wine bottle or something that will accept a bung and airlock, with of at least 1.5g of capacity
6. a scale that goes down to the tenth of a gram
7. Two 1L fliptop growlers
8. Hydrometer
9. Spirits Based Thermometer

With this setup you can mash (soak grain in water), boil the full volume, chill in your sink, transfer to your fermenter, and then transfer to your fliptops and prime with 4oz of sugar each to come out with two full growlers at the end of the day. It works great.

Phase Two
1. pH Meter
2. Refractometer
3. mL dropper (forget what they're called - for adding acid)
4. Acid, Calcium Chloride, etc (all the chemicals listed in Brew'n Water, which you should DL now and read, then use later)
5. Mini fridge with temperature controller (control that fermentation temperature)

This will allow you to build your water from RO or distilled according to the profiles built into Brew'n Water, test your pH results during mash, and control your fermentation temperature. At this point, if you're doing it all right, you'll be making some nice beers. Try to start with easy grain bills and stay away from big Stouts, IIIPAs, etc. Centennial Blonde is tried and true and I still brew it to this day, regularly.

Phase Three
1. Nice Grainmill
2. Three Vessel SS brewhouse with pumps, sightglasses, false bottoms, quick disconnects, valves, etc.
3. Nice chiller
4. Two Carboys or SS Buckets
5. Full size fridge with controller (to ferment)
6. Convert your old mini fridge into a kegerator
7. Co2 tank
8. Taps, etc
9. Bulk Grain
10. Bulk Hops (the one you like best and will be using most - Cascade??)
11. 55lb scale for grain and hops

Now you're set to do as you were with your advanced 1 gallon BIAB, but for 10 gallon batches.

IMO you don't need to bother with extract. The difference between dumping powder into water and dumping crushed grain into water and waiting an hour is negligible when you're BIAB. Like Imentioned, it might be more rewarding early on if you focus on simple grainbills (blonde, cream ale, pale ale, etc).

Cheers!

I like your list.
Phase 2 part 3 is called pipettes.

I agree with most of what you said. It's a natural progression in home brewing.

I would still recommend trying extract early on. It simplifies a few steps and makes it easier to understand the process. All-grain is not that complicated, and I definitely recommend upgrading to all-grain after a few batches. But extract is easier, especially in terms of cooling the wort - just dilute it with cold water.

My list for Phase One would be:

Phase One
1. 3 gallon SS pot of any quality (I got one for $4 at a yardsale)
[I would get 5 Gallon pot (for 5G batches), and get Aluminum - it's cheaper than SS and works just as well]. Maybe $60 new, $0-$30 used.

2. a BIAB bag that fits
[OR - brew 1-3 extract beers first and not worry about it]
$0

3. a cheap mill (or better yet, just have your grain milled extra fine at the LHBS)

[again, just use extract first. You really don't need a mill if your homebrewmart has a decent mill]
$0

4. an auto syphon
[You definitely need an auto siphon]
$10-15 or so?

5. a 5L wine bottle or something that will accept a bung and airlock, with of at least 1.5g of capacity
[I would get a 6G or 7G PET fermentor. Glass is nice but get PET plastic. You can use the plastic bucket but I would invest in a fermentor. 7G Fermonster would be my pick]
$30 or so

6. a scale that goes down to the tenth of a gram
[agreed - good for measuring hops etc.]
$10-15.

7. Two 1L flip top growlers
[I would start collecting bottles. 12oz, 22oz even better]
free - after you drink the beer they come with.

8. Hydrometer
[you do need this, as well as hydrometer jar]
$15-20

9. Spirits Based Thermometer
[yes, you will need thermometer, but I would argue you may go with electronic one (thermocouple based), it will make more sense in the long run. But alcohol based thermometer may be useful too if you already have it]
$10-30

I would add starsan, bottling equipment (capper - maybe just wing capper to start with, but I also like bottle washer and bottle tree), wine thief, bottling bucket, funnel, sieve.

For Stage 2: (going all-grain)
I would recommend a dedicated mashtun (I think it still makes perfect sense - about $60 to convert 70qt Coleman Cooler into one) - but BIAB is fine too.

Now you definitely need a thermometer. I would say pH meter and acids/minerals are optional unless your water is really bad, or you are really into somewhat complicated chemistry. What is more important is temperature control (especially if you can't have ambient at 65+-5F), and immersion chiller or some other way to chill the wort, quickly. (probably $50 if you DYI, and $100 if you buy one).

If you need temp control, you may need to purchase a freezer that can fit a fermentor or two and hook it up with temperature controller, super easy. Maybe another $100-$150 for freezer and $30 or so for temp controller.
The fermentor chamber can double as beer cellar in between your brews. If you do have such gap.

 

[normonster]

@55X11 Fair enough...I honestly haven't ever brewed an extract batch so I really can't say how much easier it is, but my first attempt at all grain came out, even after boil overs, missing mash temp, etc, really great.

I think your plan sounds fine as well, I just have really been enjoying brewing small batches lately....in the kitchen...in my boxers...lol.

 

[JordanKnudson]

Your local homebrew store would be a good place to start also.

If you read through those first several pages of the thread, he has been to his lhbs and received some suggestions and guidance there. I think he was asking us in order to see if there was any insight that the guy at the lhbs may have simply missed or left out.

 

[DonnyBenét]

There does not seem to be a lot of extract recipes over the net.. Do you guys know where I can find them?

Thanks!

 

[Pariah3j]

Are you looking for just a recipe or do you want to buy a kit w/ ingredients as well ?

 

[normonster]

There does not seem to be a lot of extract recipes over the net.. Do you guys know where I can find them?

Thanks!

Here you go.

This should get you a very similar beer:

Batch Size: 5.50 gal
Boil Size: 6.57 gal
Estimated OG: 1.044 SG
Estimated Color: 3.2 SRM
Estimated IBU: 16.8 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.0 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
5.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 83.3 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 16.7 %
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (45 min) Hops 7.8 IBU
0.25 oz Centennial [9.50%] (20 min) Hops 5.1 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (10 min) Hops 2.5 IBU
0.25 oz Cascade [7.80%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
1 Pkgs Nottingham (Danstar #-) Yeast-Ale

 

[DonnyBenét]

Are you looking for just a recipe or do you want to buy a kit w/ ingredients as well ?

Pretty much looking for recipes because I can't buy any kits from the USA lol