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I'd just pick a kit and go with it. They should have most everything to get you started. Once you brew a batch or two you'll find out what you need, what you want, and what you don't need. Everyone has a different setup. The key is finding out what works for you and brew with it.

Yeah... I guess that's what I will have to do... I've just read so much that I just can't make up my mind... People say that kits are not good and you should buy everything separately... I don't know what to do anymore haha
 
I get 7 gallon buckets for free from the local Soap making shop... food grade... they get their oils in bulk and just recycle the buckets... they were happy to give them to me and I bring them a 6 pack of home brew every now and then as thanks.
 
Ok I went to a local homebrew shop today, and spoke with the guy who owns the shop. He seems to know his stuff very well, but he told me a few things I would like to check with you guys:

1) He says that I just can't use a plastic bucket as a fermenter because I would have to fill it up almost to the top. He says I will end up contaminating my batch. He says I must go with a carboy, either glass or plastic. He highly recommends plastic and told me he wouldn't go with glass.

2) He says that to pick my kettle, I must choose one that has twice the volume capacity of the batch I am going to make. For example, he told me that for 5 gallons batches, I would need a 10 gallons kettle. He says that a 10 gallons kettle must absolutely be used on a burner, because a regular stove won't be able to boil correctly.

3) His beer kits are 23L in size. In my book, 23L is 6 gallons, not 5. Why the hell?

What are you guys opinion on this?

Thanks again
 
I have never used buckets, I don't like the idea of them for a bunch of reason, but many make beer in them so maybe I'm just old.

I don't like glass for a bunch of reasons, but they do work. I've broken mine, so I've do have some experience there.

Kettle should be 50% bigger than your intended batch. I have experience making 5g and 10g batches, and I think this ratio is good.
 
Ok I went to a local homebrew shop today, and spoke with the guy who owns the shop. He seems to know his stuff very well, but he told me a few things I would like to check with you guys:

1) He says that I just can't use a plastic bucket as a fermenter because I would have to fill it up almost to the top. He says I will end up contaminating my batch. He says I must go with a carboy, either glass or plastic. He highly recommends plastic and told me he wouldn't go with glass.

2) He says that to pick my kettle, I must choose one that has twice the volume capacity of the batch I am going to make. For example, he told me that for 5 gallons batches, I would need a 10 gallons kettle. He says that a 10 gallons kettle must absolutely be used on a burner, because a regular stove won't be able to boil correctly.

3) His beer kits are 23L in size. In my book, 23L is 6 gallons, not 5. Why the hell?

What are you guys opinion on this?

Thanks again

I like plastic carboys, or some type of wide mouth plastic fermenter. For example Spiedel, or Fermonster. Don't care for buckets and have read plenty of horror stories about glass, but lots of people use both. The kettle advice is good. I'd go 10 gallon minimum, and kinda wish I would have gone with 15 gallon. I've never tried to do a 5 gallon batch inside, but I can imagine it wouldn't be fun trying to heat the water up. Plus I don't care for brewing inside anyways, too much moisture boiled into the air, and the wife would complain about the smell. So if anything, he is not giving you bad advise.
 
So basically, I need a propane burner and I can only brew in the summer or when it's not raining outside? For 5 gallons batches? I never read about that anywhere before :(
 
Or you can get some simple electronic controls for a heating element in the kettle for about the same price as a burner.

5 gallon full boil on a stove will be difficult to impossible, people doing 5 gallon batches on stoves are normally doing extract or partial mash and adding top off water.
 
I've been brewing 5g batches on my stove for a while - it takes some time to get the water up to boiling, but not excessive IMO. Burner would probably work better, but it can be done. So for starting out I think it will be fine - but it may be an option you want to explore eventually though.
 
So basically, I need a propane burner and I can only brew in the summer or when it's not raining outside? For 5 gallons batches? I never read about that anywhere before :(

Not necessary. If doing extract you don't need to do a full boil so that's doable without a burner. I brew outside all year long, except when it's really cold. Remember you got 5+ gallons of liquid boiling, kinda like standing around a campfire. Once you get past the hot break there's really no need to babysit the boil. I go do other things and just check on things every now and then and make hop additions. Your burner doesn't have to be fancy. I use a turkey fryer burner that I pulled out of my scrap pile, works fine.
 
I started brewing extract kits on the stovetop using a 16 qt. SS kettle from Wal Mart @ $12., since an extract boil is ~2.5 - 3 gal.; 2 plastic 6.5 gal buckets with lids and airlocks, one to ferment in, the other with spigot to rack into for bottling. Since gone to AG, but made some great beers starting out with some really simple equipment.
 
Ok. Fact is there are as many ways to make beer as there are beers to make! I've done killer brews in buckets. Keep them clean and take care of them and they'll do you fine. Full boils are great if you can afford all the gear, but not necessary, especially if you're doing extracts. Carboys are nice to have, either plastic or glass, but not necessary. If you're just starting out you can make some killer brews in just the basic bucket kit. Don't let all the brew "masters" convince you to spend your life savings if you don't want to.
 
If you have a gas stove, you can probably bring 7-8 gallons to a boil after about 30-40 minutes. If you supplement the stove with a 1000 watt (or more) heat stick, you can significantly reduce your time to boil and also increase the vigor of your boil.

I do 6 gallon stove top BIAB w/heat stick in a 10 gallon aluminum stock pot, slow chill (overnight in the kettle), ferment in a free 7.5 gallon bucket (use a blow-off).

Totally do able. Makes tasty beer.
 
Ok I am getting mixed opinions here, and I think I understand why. It was not clear to you guys if I wanted to start doing malt extract or all grain brews.

Basically, I want to start with malt extract brews. Eventually, I will do all-grain but now, just extract.

Do I need a propane burner and a 10g kettle, or can I just get a 8g kettle and boil using my electric stove? The guy at the store told me I can't do this on the stove and that I need at least a 10g kettle , but the howtobrew book and bunch of people seem to do it on the stove... What am I missing here?

Someone on this thread said that for malt extract, I do not need a full boil (what does that even mean?) and that I can use my regular stove.

Can you guys point me in the right direction please? :)

Thanks
 
I do all grain on my stove in a 7.5gallon turkey fryer. Not doing a full boil he means boil your extract in a manageable amount of water then top off the fermenter to the final volume you desire. You certainly do not need a propane burner and 10g pot to do extract brewing.
 
My very first brew was an extract recipe that I attempted on an electric stove. It took FOREVER to heat up even 3 gallons of water (partial boil, I topped it off in the fermenter) and it was not strong enough to bring it to a boil (temp got to 209 and wouldn't budge) unless I put the lid on the pot, which I've read is a no-no. I immediate ordered a gas burner and it has been great. You just have to move your operation outside. Hope this helps.
 
No, there is no need for a 10 gallon kettle and propane burner for extract brewing. But if you think you will be going AG in the future, I'd get the bigger kettle from the get go, unless you like buying things twice.
 
I use both glass carboys and plastic buckets. The buckets came from the local grocery stores bakery dept. Only issue is you need to clean them and make sure there are no scratches on the inside. I probably have made 10 ferments in the buckets and never had an issue. These buckets are free and if you go this route you will need to drill a hole in the lid for a rubber grommet for the airlock.
Also, you will need to secure the lid with tape. I use duck tape and never had an issue with the lid popping off, except for the first time. these lids tend not to seal completely. As long as you practice good cleaning and sanitizing you should have no problems.
 
Basically, I want to start with malt extract brews. Eventually, I will do all-grain but now, just extract.

Do I need a propane burner and a 10g kettle, or can I just get a 8g kettle and boil using my electric stove? The guy at the store told me I can't do this on the stove and that I need at least a 10g kettle , but the howtobrew book and bunch of people seem to do it on the stove... What am I missing here?

Someone on this thread said that for malt extract, I do not need a full boil (what does that even mean?) and that I can use my regular stove.

Thanks

1) For extract you do not need a 10 gallon kettle, the smallest that would work is 4 gallons, (12$ USD at walmart).

2) My electric stove will boil 3 gallons, but it takes a while.

3) Standard practice is to have a full boil. I think the previous poster meant that it doesn't have to be a vigorous boil, which is correct. Vigorous is preferred but not necessary. In other words don't worry about it just turn you stove up all the way.

4) I saw the guy at the homebrew store said you can't use a plastic bucket. That couldn't be further from the truth, just clean it well, sanitize it and put the lid on. Just buy a 6.5 gal bucket, a lid with a hole and an airlock. He's trying to sell you more expensive stuff, you can always buy a nice glass carboy later. Plastic will work fine.
 
I do all grain on my stove in a 7.5gallon turkey fryer. Not doing a full boil he means boil your extract in a manageable amount of water then top off the fermenter to the final volume you desire. You certainly do not need a propane burner and 10g pot to do extract brewing.

Thanks a bunch, I get it now!

Two more questions:

1) The fermentor... For 5g batches, how big of a carboy do I need? For buckets, I read it is 6.5G, but the guy at the store told me it still won't work and might contaminate my beer...

2) The beer kit they were selling at this store is for 23L batches. 23L = 6G... This isn't a 5G batch now is it?

Thanks!
 
When the beer ferments it creates a a giant head called a krausen, which temporarily fills 1 - 2 gallons of headspace. If you were to put 5 gallons of beer in a 5 gallon fermentor the krausen would push out the airlock and spill over creating a huge mess, hence why you typically use 6-6.5 gallon fermentors for a 5 gallon batch.

Once again I've fermented in plastic buckets probably 20 times and never had an infection, or any sort of problem. I prefer now glass because I can watch the fermentation and it's better for aging.
 
Man, this thread is just a sh*t show of mixed messages (everybody is trying to be helpful and giving good advice, but there's just too much conflicting advice being put forth). With that said, here's what I think... ;)

Brewing can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be, from equipment to process to recipes and beyond. You, as a brand new brewer, probably want to keep it as simple as possible for your first few times out, and then begin to build up the details. With that in mind, I wouldn't purchase any of the really big stuff just yet. (The folks that are suggesting large kettles/propane burners/etc. are doing so because you will likely want those things down the road, and obviously it will save you money and hassle if you already have them at that point. I, on the other hand, bought those things later, and to this day still have uses for my beginning equipment.) So, if the goal is to make beer and get acquainted with the process, and have the basic materials necessary to get your brewery up and running, here is my suggested list:

1. A kettle -- don't overthink this for now. Yes, you'll probably want a bigger one later, but for extract kits that use partial volume boils, even a cheap 5 gallon aluminum pot will work. YES, you can use it on the stove. It may come to a boil slower, but unless you're on an incredibly tight schedule, you can surely spare the extra 15 minutes. Also make sure you have a metal or plastic spoon long enough to stir with.

2. Star San and a cheap spray bottle -- Star San is essential for sanitizing your equipment at every step after the boil. The easiest way to use it is to mix it with water at the indicated ratio and put some in a spray bottle/mister. Then you can easily spray down any surface or tool that you need sanitized.

3. TWO 6.5 gallon plastic buckets with spigots, plus at least one airlock -- these work just fine as fermentors. Do your full fermentation schedule in the first bucket (no transfer for secondary; there are threads galore about that on here), then transfer via the spigot to the second bucket for bottling. Ignore anyone who says you can't make beer in these. That's an outright lie, as evidenced by countless homebrewers who make consistently excellent beer using buckets. You may end up *preferring* a different kind of fermentor down the line, but these are your best bet up front.

4. A few (maybe 5) feet of tubing -- you attach this to the spigot of your fermenting bucket to transfer your finished beer to the bottling bucket without excessive splashing, then attach it to the bottling bucket spigot for bottling (make sure it is kept sanitary). Just make sure it is the correct size to fit your spigots and bottling wand. 5/16" diameter works well for my equipment.

5. Bottling wand -- presumably you are bottling, so this in an essential. Cheap and easy to use.

6. Bottles and bottle caps -- my suggestion? Go drink a bunch of good beer and save all the bottles that have pry-off caps (can't use twist-offs, sadly). You'll need somewhere between 40-50 bottles. Caps aren't reusable, but you can purchase them from your lhbs or online retailer very cheaply.

7. Bottle capper -- Get the cheap red wing capper. I bottled for several years before moving on to kegging, and I used the same capper the whole time.

8. Recipe Kit -- this one's a no-brainer, of course, but you'll need ingredients! Order a kit from somewhere reputable like Northern Brewer, or take a chance on your lhbs' kits. They should come with extract, hops (keep frozen until use), yeast (keep refrigerated until use), corn [priming] sugar for bottling, and instructions. Follow the instructions as closely as you can, except when they inevitably tell you to transfer to a secondary fermentor (just leave it where it is until bottling time, it will be perfectly fine). Also, you will see lots of scary complicated information about water chemistry if you look around. Luckily, extract kits are best done with store-bought distilled water, which eliminates your worries on that front.


I hope this helps. It's great that you have put so much thought and effort into getting prepared, but it's also important that you not overthink it in the beginning. This basic equipment will get you on your feet, and when you have done it once or twice you will have a much clearer picture of what you need beyond that.
 
Man, this thread is just a sh*t show of mixed messages (everybody is trying to be helpful and giving good advice, but there's just too much conflicting advice being put forth). With that said, here's what I think... ;)

Brewing can be as simple or as complicated as you want it to be, from equipment to process to recipes and beyond. You, as a brand new brewer, probably want to keep it as simple as possible for your first few times out, and then begin to build up the details. With that in mind, I wouldn't purchase any of the really big stuff just yet. (The folks that are suggesting large kettles/propane burners/etc. are doing so because you will likely want those things down the road, and obviously it will save you money and hassle if you already have them at that point. I, on the other hand, bought those things later, and to this day still have uses for my beginning equipment.) So, if the goal is to make beer and get acquainted with the process, and have the basic materials necessary to get your brewery up and running, here is my suggested list:

1. A kettle -- don't overthink this for now. Yes, you'll probably want a bigger one later, but for extract kits that use partial volume boils, even a cheap 5 gallon aluminum pot will work. YES, you can use it on the stove. It may come to a boil slower, but unless you're on an incredibly tight schedule, you can surely spare the extra 15 minutes. Also make sure you have a metal or plastic spoon long enough to stir with.

2. Star San and a cheap spray bottle -- Star San is essential for sanitizing your equipment at every step after the boil. The easiest way to use it is to mix it with water at the indicated ratio and put some in a spray bottle/mister. Then you can easily spray down any surface or tool that you need sanitized.

3. TWO 6.5 gallon plastic buckets with spigots, plus at least one airlock -- these work just fine as fermentors. Do your full fermentation schedule in the first bucket (no transfer for secondary; there are threads galore about that on here), then transfer via the spigot to the second bucket for bottling. Ignore anyone who says you can't make beer in these. That's an outright lie, as evidenced by countless homebrewers who make consistently excellent beer using buckets. You may end up *preferring* a different kind of fermentor down the line, but these are your best bet up front.

4. A few (maybe 5) feet of tubing -- you attach this to the spigot of your fermenting bucket to transfer your finished beer to the bottling bucket without excessive splashing, then attach it to the bottling bucket spigot for bottling (make sure it is kept sanitary). Just make sure it is the correct size to fit your spigots and bottling wand. 5/16" diameter works well for my equipment.

5. Bottling wand -- presumably you are bottling, so this in an essential. Cheap and easy to use.

6. Bottles and bottle caps -- my suggestion? Go drink a bunch of good beer and save all the bottles that have pry-off caps (can't use twist-offs, sadly). You'll need somewhere between 40-50 bottles. Caps aren't reusable, but you can purchase them from your lhbs or online retailer very cheaply.

7. Bottle capper -- Get the cheap red wing capper. I bottled for several years before moving on to kegging, and I used the same capper the whole time.

8. Recipe Kit -- this one's a no-brainer, of course, but you'll need ingredients! Order a kit from somewhere reputable like Northern Brewer, or take a chance on your lhbs' kits. They should come with extract, hops (keep frozen until use), yeast (keep refrigerated until use), corn [priming] sugar for bottling, and instructions. Follow the instructions as closely as you can, except when they inevitably tell you to transfer to a secondary fermentor (just leave it where it is until bottling time, it will be perfectly fine). Also, you will see lots of scary complicated information about water chemistry if you look around. Luckily, extract kits are best done with store-bought distilled water, which eliminates your worries on that front.


I hope this helps. It's great that you have put so much thought and effort into getting prepared, but it's also important that you not overthink it in the beginning. This basic equipment will get you on your feet, and when you have done it once or twice you will have a much clearer picture of what you need beyond that.

Oh man, thank you so much for explaining so clearly for such a noob like me! You answer pretty much all questions I had!

Here are a few questions for you:

1) Extract kits... At the store, they sell 6G (23L) kits... Have you ever seen this?

2) What's the user of a secondary fermenter? I don't think I understand this part.

3) The starting kit they sell at the store includes 2 5G plastic carboys. Can these replace the buckets? He actually sells the kit at a very good price.

Thanks again :D :ban::ban:
 
1) Yes, and with boil off and trub loss and water addition, you will probably end up with 5 or 5.5 gallons.

2) I think the point was to rack off of the trub and let the fermentation finish and "clean up" resulting in clearer beer, although it's been proven time and again that it's not necessary and offers another opportunity for contamination.

3) Yes, but it will still be better to have a bottling bucket for that part. Bottling directly from a carboy will be a pain. If both carboys are for fermentation or primary/secondary, then you will have two fermentation vessels and can have two batches going at once.
 
1) Yes, and with boil off and trub loss and water addition, you will probably end up with 5 or 5.5 gallons.

2) I think the point was to rack off of the trub and let the fermentation finish and "clean up" resulting in clearer beer, although it's been proven time and again that it's not necessary and offers another opportunity for contamination.

3) Yes, but it will still be better to have a bottling bucket for that part. Bottling directly from a carboy will be a pain. If both carboys are for fermentation or primary/secondary, then you will have two fermentation vessels and can have two batches going at once.

More questions:

1) Will it fit in a regular 5G carboy?

3) What if the carboys have spigots? Will it work or should I still get at least one bucket with a spigot? Are spigots necessary at all, I just learned about them lol
 
3) The starting kit they sell at the store includes 2 5G plastic carboys. Can these replace the buckets? He actually sells the kit at a very good price.

Thanks again :D :ban::ban:

For a 5 gallon brew you will want bigger than 5 gallon, you need some head space there or you will have a mess on your hands. I do 5-6 gallon brews in my 7.9 gallon Spiedel, and 7 gallon Fermonster.
 
More questions:

1) Will it fit in a regular 5G carboy?

3) What if the carboys have spigots? Will it work or should I still get at least one bucket with a spigot? Are spigots necessary at all, I just learned about them lol

Basically assume that for any size batch, you need a fermentor that is a bit bigger. That's because (as you will see once you brew your first) yeast activity creates a thick layer of foam, called "krausen," on top of the liquid surface, so you need some additional fermentor capacity ("headspace") to accomodate it. That's why I recommended the 6.5 gallon bucket for fermenting a 5 gallon batch. It may also work for a 23L batch from your lhbs as well, although you'd be cutting it pretty close. For this reason, I would recommend picking up the equipment I listed in my previous post, and getting a 5 gallon kit to start, so you can have a foolproof first go. (Even if it means not buying your lhbs' kit this time around.)

As for spigots, they just make life a million times easier. If you get a fermentor without a spigot, you will need an additional piece of equipment called an auto-siphon to manually transfer your beer. It isn't hard to work with (although it's not ideal for bottling), but I don't see any good reason for adding extra pieces when spigots are so much more straightforward (auto-siphons don't do anything that your spigot doesn't). If you can find 6.5 gallon plastic carboys with spigots, and you prefer that aesthetic to the buckets, then you can go that route. It really won't make a difference either way. (People have debated the relative merits of buckets vs carboys plenty, but in my experience you can make great beer in either one).
 
Question about airlocks... 3-Piece Cylindrical Bubbler VS S-Type Bubbler... On the website I am about to order my fermenter, they suggest the 3-piece cylindrical bubbler for the primary fermenter, but all the kits I have seen elsewhere are S-Type fermentors..

What are you guys' input about those two types?

Thanks again :)
 
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