Cheap Sanke Keg fermenter Conversion kit (Completed!)

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Huaco said:
Can you let this thing sit overnight to verify it will actually hold pressure.
Click to expand...

Well I'm 100% satisfied with the results. It's still at 10psi holding strong.

Funny thing ... I did have a leak in my spunding valve, so I wrapped the ball with plumbers tape. That seemed to do the trick (I need to get a plastic ball for it). Anyway, the needle hasn't moved since...

I have to stress the fact that the size of the holes in the stopper is extremely important. It needs to be very snug.

I'm confident this will work for fermenting, but I have some ideas to make it more ridgid for adding ball locks to it. I think this same set up can convert a sankey to a ball lock for serving or for fermenting as well...the parts will cost more over all though.

I'm thinking about using two of these
CI-150600-EA_1.jpg


They will go through the stopper. On the top is a washer and nut and on the bottom is a SS washer and SS nut. This will "sandwich" stopper and make the connectors more ridgid. The inside can connect a dip tube via compression the too can connect a ball lock connector... I think it will work very well.

Well... I call this an absolute success. Now I'm off to Home Depot to get the supplies for quick connect and to make several more of these for my other kegs.

I'm brewing tomorrow or Friday... :rockin:
 
Hey insanim8ter...
I'm not getting a picture to show up in your last post there you said you were going to "get 2 of these". It looks like something from airgas maybe?
Could you provide a link?
 
Huaco said:
Hey insanim8er...
I'm not getting a picture to show up in your last post there you said you were going to "get 2 of these". It looks like something from airgas maybe?
Could you provide a link?
Click to expand...

I changed the pix. It's a 1/4" nipple. I think 1 1/2" long will do it.
 
Stealthcruiser said:
See if this will help ya' :

http://www.dresselbrew.com/Keg_Info.htm
Click to expand...

Not really, seems like they are all UN (UNF?) threads and none really match up to an NPT/BSP thread at all. I think I saw somewhere that someone had basically just used a metric ass-load of thread tape to get one to seal to a NPT thread but I don't know how that would hold up to pressure :(
 
So I went to Home Depot and got all sorts of other parts for the compression fitting, but it wouldn't fit over the racking cane. The hole and the cane were exactly the same size. I could've widen the hole a hair, but it didn't make sense. It cost more money and really wouldn't have achieved anything better than what I ended up doing, so I bagged that idea and simply attached a liquid out ball lock coupler to the racking cane.

I'm not sure what to expect as far as wort coming up the tube during fermentation. I ferment in a dark chamber, and that wort will get blown off regardless. But I'll find out soon. I think it'll be fine.

So the plan is to ferment with the coupler on to keep pressure. Once I'm ready to transfer, I'll just push the pin and blow off any yeast. Once the liquid runs clear, I'll attach it to my corny keg liquid side and transfer. If I get an extra ball lock fitting, maybe I can make a QD picnic tap to make the blow off of the yeast easier. But for now this should work.

I still need to find some parts to do the QD for the sunding valve and co2. I plan on using air hose connections, but finding a barbed male is the problem. If I can't find any local, ill order then on line.

image.jpg
 
How possible would it be to put a racking cane on the bottom of the sankey and replace the hole in the bung with a large barb or some other fitting for adding yeast?

I know it would be a bit more expensive, but it might be a nice option. I have seen this set up somewhere before. I think https://brewmagic.com/product/brew-magic-fermenter/ has a picture there.

Just wondering how difficult it would be to make one of these instead of buying one for 600 usd.

Thoughts,, comments??
 
Nice.
I like the idea of transferring under pressure. The addition of the liquid qd is awesome. So why not just put a gas QD on the spunding setup. That way you can place it on the gas post of the keg and control your pressure and run rate into the keg.
One thing I am having a hard time understanding... How are you going to know when you have a full keg if you can't see into it?
 
Huaco said:
Nice.
I like the idea of transferring under pressure. The addition of the liquid qd is awesome. So why not just put a gas QD on the spunding setup. That way you can place it on the gas post of the keg and control your pressure and run rate into the keg.
One thing I am having a hard time understanding... How are you going to know when you have a full keg if you can't see into it?
Click to expand...

Ya I'm looking to add QD to the gas/spunding side. Home Depot didn't have what I needed. I want barbed air hose connections. They don't have the male side barbed. I don't want to make it because it adds seams that can fail. I'll find some or order them line. I'm looking for whats in the photo.

To know your wort volume in your keg, use a bathroom scale and go off weight. Or you can use your sight on your boil kettle. I have a blichmann boiler maker, so it has a nice sight guage. But weight is your best bet.

image.jpg
 
johns said:
How possible would it be to put a racking cane on the bottom of the sankey and replace the hole in the bung with a large barb or some other fitting for adding yeast?
Click to expand...

I'm not quite following? There is a racking cane at the bottom. That's how the beer is transferred.

I don't see a reason to force yeast through, but it can be done with this system as is.

Here's an idea... Make a yeast starter in a mason jar. Make a gas in/liquid out set-up on the mason jar lid. Connect the liquid out to the liquid out cane on the fermenter. Add gas to the jar and force the yeast through the cane. You'll need the fermenter to release pressure via the gas in barb.

Again not really sure of the benefit, but that should do it.
 
ryanhope said:
This is such a bad ass thread. Great idea!
Click to expand...

Thanks man... I'm pretty happy with the end results. And I'm still amazed at the simplicity/low cost and over all results. I'll be brewing today, and plan on building 4 more while I wait for the mash and boil.
 
ZombieCat said:
Very nice and inexpensive setup!
Click to expand...

Thanks... I don't spend more than $25/keg so that was the bulk of it

The washer was ¢33
The bung was ¢95
The barb was $2.80 (lead free brass)

I had the racking cane, but those are ~ $10
I also had the gas connect. Those are about $5/8
And I had the hose clams and hoses, but another few bucks there.

So it can be done for under $50 for everything. That means you can have a bad ass fermenter for less than the sankey converter offered on the internet. Not bad!

I'm brewing today. I just got my water on the burner. I need to start working on another one now since I'm doing 10gal of but brown. :rockin:
 
insanim8er said:
Ya I'm looking to add QD to the gas/spunding side. Home Depot didn't have what I needed. I want barbed air hose connections. They don't have the male side barbed. I don't want to make it because it adds seams that can fail. I'll find some or order them line. I'm looking for whats in the photo.
Click to expand...

FWIW I had that type of QD on my original CO2 manifold for my keezer, and learned the hard way that they are very prone to slow leaks that are near impossible to track down, especially if there's any lateral pressure on either of the fittings.

insanim8er said:
So it can be done for under $50 for everything. That means you can have a bad ass fermenter for less than the sankey converter offered on the internet. Not bad!
Click to expand...

Or if you have the headroom, it can be done for the cost of a sankey coupler (~$30 new, $15-20 used) and with zero labor. ;)
 
JuanMoore said:
FWIW I had that type of QD on my original CO2 manifold for my keezer, and learned the hard way that they are very prone to slow leaks that are near impossible to track down, especially if there's any lateral pressure on either of the fittings.



Or if you have the headroom, it can be done for the cost of a sankey coupler (~$30 new, $15-20 used) and with zero labor. ;)
Click to expand...

30Bones said:
That's what I was thinking also
Click to expand...

First off the cost of a coupler is more than the parts to do this, and labor? Really... Brewing beer is more labor than making this adapter.

But more important we've gone through this in a prior post... A sankey coupler is too bulky for my needs. If it's not something that works for you, and you already have the answer, move on to the next posting. I don't even understand why you waste your time looking at something that you don't need. I'm not trying to be an A, but let's keep it on topic and add helpful info on the topic at hand.

Spite all that a coupler doesn't work for everyone since there is a $80 + adapter that I've seen sold out a few tines... So let's get over it and move on.

Also since you're so in love with couplers, I have about 4 I'll sell you pm me.
 
This is a simple, cheap and functional build. I love to modify things, so.it's right up my alley AND I had 2 spears lying around...

Question: I am wondering how easy it is to remove so that you could easily dryhop. I tore apart one of my spears last night cuz I was bored, and also your build inspired me. (Yes a coupler would work, but tinkering is just so much fun!) I can't find a wire hanger in the house, so I thought about using the metal ring that came with the keg, but it's a pain in the arse to install and remove.

I am thinking about using this concept for racking to kegs as I like the forced CO2 idea. Additionally, I can have one with a blow off tube set up... It was fun to enjoy a homebrew and play with the parts.
 
Komocabo said:
Question: I am wondering how easy it is to remove so that you could easily dryhop
Click to expand...

Mine is easy to remove. I pinch the coat hanger and it pops out. Then I twist the whole thing and lift up... But I plan on dry hopping by transferring to a corny keg that had the dry hopper in it and air purged out. Then transfer to a serving keg. this keeps everything sealed from the time you pitch to the time it hits a glass.
 
Making mine next week. Would do it this weekend but I'm working on my still. Going to make two of these. Still have concerns about cleaning them but it seems quite a few people do it this way...
 
hepkat701 said:
Making mine next week. Would do it this weekend but I'm working on my still. Going to make two of these. Still have concerns about cleaning them but it seems quite a few people do it this way...
Click to expand...

You should be ok just use a keg brush PBW. Also keep it clean after you rack.
 
I have ten gallons of nut brown, that I brewed up on Friday, fermenting away in two kegs. The spunding valves are holding pressure. Everything is working according to plan... So far.

I may close off the valve before I hit my final gravity to force carbonate the beer naturally. Will see...
 
Fermentation is going strong. I closed off the valves this morning and within a few minutes it was up to 10 psi (on one keg. The spunding valve on the other is leaking from the pressure release part. I hopefully got it fixed)

I read that 5 psi is good for yeat growth, but 15 psi is where it should be during fermentation. So I'm going to let it get to 15 and see how it goes.

Edit: it hit 15 psi... I set the spunding. Now it's slowly leaking air at a stable 15psi.
 
Wouldn't an extended fermentation at 15psi over carbonate your beer with gasses that could potentially have off aromas in them? Thought the idea of the spunding was to hit carb levels right at the end of fermentation.
 
Huaco said:
Wouldn't an extended fermentation at 15psi over carbonate your beer with gasses that could potentially have off aromas in them? Thought the idea of the spunding was to hit carb levels right at the end of fermentation.
Click to expand...

65f at 15psi = ~1.7 volume so it'll actually be in range for a brown, but on the lower side. I'd prefer to be on the higher side 2 to 2.1

From what I read, they open the valve 100% until co2 starts (about a day or so). Then it's sealed to 15psi until it's a few points from final gravity. Then they seal it 100%

The beauty of a spunding valve is you can also use it to depressurize over carbonated beer.

This is all experimental for me, so I'm not expecting any awards for this batch.
 
Huaco said:
Wouldn't an extended fermentation at 15psi over carbonate your beer with gasses that could potentially have off aromas in them? Thought the idea of the spunding was to hit carb levels right at the end of fermentation.
Click to expand...

Depends on the yeast strain, but pressurized fermentation generally decreases the formation of esters, fusels, and some other off flavor compounds, but it can increase sulfur production in some strains. The main reason myself and several others use spunding valves is to take advantage of these properties, not to carbonate the beer. In fact, I don't even use my spunding valve to carbonate the beer, although it does obviously come out of the fermenter with more carbonation than beer fermented without any head pressure.

I've read that this is the method Rogue uses to create the clean Maibock flavors in their dead guy ale while using an ale yeast and fermenting at ale temps. I don't know if this is true or not, but it certainly makes sense based on my experiences with it.

Pressurized fermentation is also used to enable fermentation at higher temps without many of the normally associated off flavors. This can allow faster fermentation, and faster grain to glass turnaround.
 
JuanMoore said:
Depends on the yeast strain, but pressurized fermentation generally decreases the formation of esters, fusels, and some other off flavor compounds, but it can increase sulfur production in some strains. The main reason myself and several others use spunding valves is to take advantage of these properties, not to carbonate the beer. In fact, I don't even use my spunding valve to carbonate the beer, although it does obviously come out of the fermenter with more carbonation than beer fermented without any head pressure.

I've read that this is the method Rogue uses to create the clean Maibock flavors in their dead guy ale while using an ale yeast and fermenting at ale temps. I don't know if this is true or not, but it certainly makes sense based on my experiences with it.

Pressurized fermentation is also used to enable fermentation at higher temps without many of the normally associated off flavors. This can allow faster fermentation, and faster grain to glass turnaround.
Click to expand...

Yup...I do think commercial breweries use it more for lagers. Since They can ferment under higher temps, faster and still come out with the flavor profile as if they were properly ferment with out pressure. I've read some will also increase the gravity along with heat (under pressure) then dilute back to the proper ABV once finished.

I'm just experimenting this time, but I'd like to be able to take full advantage of the fermenting benefits as well as carbing beer to save on co2.
 
Total success!

I just finished transferring 10 gallons from two different kegs. I had some user error issues on the first keg, forgot to depressurize my corny keg before I hooked it up, so I stirred the yeast up pretty good... But the second one was a smoother transfer.

I will be adding QD to the gas side. It was a ***** trying to swap out the spunding valve for co2. But the liquid side worked out fantastic. There was no issue with the beer coming up the hose during fermentation.
 
Huaco said:
Nice.
I like the idea of transferring under pressure. The addition of the liquid qd is awesome. So why not just put a gas QD on the spunding setup. That way you can place it on the gas post of the keg and control your pressure and run rate into the keg.
Click to expand...

insanim8er said:
I will be adding QD to the gas side. It was a ***** trying to swap out the spunding valve for co2. But the liquid side worked out fantastic. There was no issue with the beer coming up the hose during fermentation.
Click to expand...

Umm... ;) :D :mug:

Haha... glad to hear it worked out well for the most part. I think your addition of a QD at the spunding will be awesome!
 
Huaco said:
Umm... ;) :D :mug:

Haha... glad to hear it worked out well for the most part. I think your addition of a QD at the spunding will be awesome!
Click to expand...

Yup it was always the plan, but I didn't want to pay for parts if this whole thing failed. I'm like $5 into it, so since it works, I'll pay $20 to finish it up.

I'm also going to get a couple more solid stoppers. When I soak the kegs in oxy or PBW, I want to seal it back up. So I'll swap the bung and seal it up to soak a few days...

I always found the fermentation part to be the worst... It's unbelievable how easy and awesome this little set up is. I'm kicking myself for skipping on two slim 1/4 kegs on CL. I really want 2 more.

The only other thing I really want to do is add a QD directly to the racking cane.

I didn't think it was needed; however if I do it that way, I can add a picnic tap to draw samples for testing the gravity. And I won't have to worry about the wort in the hose. I can use the same tap to blow off the yeast.
 
I built mine (a little differently) and the beer is fermenting now. Works amazingly, and was a fun, cheap build. I used a metal spacer, not a washer. Will need to replace that with a stainless washer as the one I am using has a little corrosion now. Nothing is touching the beer, So I'm not worried for this round... but will be making a stop at Home Depot to replace.

Great concept!
 
When I ferment in half bbl Sankey kegs, they come clean easy with the use of my carboy/corny keg cleaner. 5 gallon bucket, pond pump, pvc nozzle.
Set keg on top with hot water and oxyclean in the bucket. Turn the keg upside down on the assembly and let it run a while. It helps if you go ahead and dump and rinse as much trub as you can. It just keeps your pump water cleaner.
 
Awesome project. I am making one right now. Did you use a stainless washer? If so where did you find it?

I also like this thread for the addition of the keggle sealed top design on page two. I am hoping my welder can copy that as that is the most elegant way to seal it I have seen.
 

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