Cheap Sanke Keg fermenter Conversion kit (Completed!)

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insanim8er

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I edited this main post from a build in progress to a completed product, sorry for any confusion with the below responses.

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The parts needed are:

A keg

A keg stem
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A racking cane Here's a good source for inexpensive ones
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A metal hanger (or similar thickness wire)
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A large washer that fits the inside of the keg stem
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A #7 blank rubber stopper (no holes drilled)
And a hose barb (used for connecting spliced hose/double sided)
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Tools needed:
Drill
Drill bit
Needle nose pliers
Grinding stone
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First take the keg stem apart.
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You'll need to press down on those wings and twist. I used a pair of pliers like this

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Use the back part to press down and twist

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It'll pop up

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Take all the pieces apart

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Use the grinding tool (or other method) to cut the small slot out from the washer

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Use the same grinder (or other method) to widen the center hole enough for the two holes and fittings.

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Push the rubber stopper into the center of the stem piece. I use star San to get it to slide in easy. I press it in too far in order to get the washer into place with ease, then I push it back the other way snug up against the washer. I then drilled the holes into the rubber stopper. Use a drill bit smaller than the barb and racking tube but large enough to be able to get the pieces into place (this step is important since this is where any air will leak if it's too loose.

I drilled both holes, then I added the barb to one hole, then re-drilled the other hole for the racking cane (since the barb adds pressure) I then use star san to slip the racking cane into place.

Bend a section of the metal hanger to this shape

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Assemble everything and use the coat hanger to keep the unit into place. It's important for it to apply pressure to the gasket to keep everything sealed (an alternative option is to use the keg ring you removed to get the stem out, but that's a pain)

I use a nail head to pry down the unit to get the hanger in place. Then I use players to make sure its pressed in well.

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That's it...

There are more photos in posts below...enjoy

Also, You can add a 3rd hole with a SS tube for a thermowell.
Here's a good source for long thermowells

I'm also planning on adding quick connects. I'll update once I do.



***** As requested, I am working on some videos on how I assembled mine. *****

DIY Racking Cane - How I was able to make some SS racking canes for much less $ than buying one.



Taking apart the keg stem

[ame]http://youtu.be/Itzi0KdTO6A[/ame]
 
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I just want to get a handle on what you are doing with that dip tube...

Are you planning to keep that in while you are fermenting, or replacing it with an airlock during fermentation, then using it for racking?

If you keep the dip tube in during fermentation, as the head pressure builds it is going to force your precious beer out of the tube. If you are hoping to ferment under pressure then you will need to stop that hole up tight.
 
I just want to get a handle on what you are doing with that dip tube...

Are you planning to keep that in while you are fermenting, or replacing it with an airlock during fermentation, then using it for racking?

If you keep the dip tube in during fermentation, as the head pressure builds it is going to force your precious beer out of the tube. If you are hoping to ferment under pressure then you will need to stop that hole up tight.

I'm attempting to do a cheap low profile version of this
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So the dip tube stays, but gets plugged, so beer can't escape. The other side will have the spunding valve (to release the pressure) then the spurning valve comes off, CO2 attached, connect a keg up to the dip tube and force transfer over... I'm thinking a quick disconnect would be ideal for that. maybe even do a QD for the racking side too, so when nothing is attached, it's sealed tight.
 
Alright, I just wanted to make sure. I think so long as everything is sealed up tight you will be just fine.

I did test it as is by blowing through the dip tube.... It held as much pressure as I could blow into it, so ya I think it'll work. I just need to get the rest of the parts to finish it. Then I'll give it a proper pressure test... I'm hoping I can hold 10psi even though that's over kill for my purpose.

I'm brewing tomorrow. If all goes well with the pressure test, I'll test it out on this brew and see how it goes.
 
I think you'll need to rig you up something with a triclover clamp, and maybe a big washer(s) to hold it in place........


Watching!

I thought that at first too, but after messing with it more, I actually don't think it'll be needed. The little groove that the metal ring goes into (the one you remove to get the post out) is about the width of a dime. I put two dimes in there and it held everything down in order to apply pressure. I'm not sure how much pressure my lungs can produce, but it seemed to be more than enough...

So I'm going to run to home depot to look for an elegant solution for that.. the dimes work, but they're not pretty.

I hope to do a pressure test tonight. I'll make a video if all goes well.
 
The retainer ring is fairly easy to re install.
Check out this .
You can also wrap each jaw of the pliers with electrical tape if you dont want to scratch your keg.

Good luck, I like this idea!
 
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Alright... so I finally got some time to run to HD and put some more effort into this. I went to the LHBS on Saturday, but forgot to grab blank stoppers. I went back today and of course they're closed Sunday. So this test was done with a single hole, but that's fine. I just wanted to see if it would hold the pressure.

I did take a video of me doing a pressure test of 10PSI - it held it with NO PROBLEM. I bet it could hold A LOT of pressure. I didn't upload it because it's kinda boring, but if anyone is interested, I can put it on youtube and link it up.

So I got a large washer from HD and put a slot in it. I just used a drill and a round grinding stone to make the slot. It fits on top of the stopper and locks it in. This allows pressure to build up with out any problem with leaking.

To keep the whole thing in, I used wire coat hanger that I bent into shape and used the holes that are used to put the retainer ring in. I bent it into a shape that would "lock" it over the screw part of a 2" hose clamp that I clamped to the neck of the keg. Everything was tight and secure.

I'm still not 100% done, but I am 100% positive this is going to work out fantastic.

I'm going to widen the washer center by girding it out. I will then use a solid stopper that I'll drill two holes into it. I am 100% sure it will do it's job and it cost a few dollars to make.

This works so well... I'm thinking this idea could be modified to create a VERY simple solution to convert a sankey into a ball lock keg.

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Interesting concept.
so nothing is in the vessel except the stopper and the racking cane?

Well I'm still working on it. But the parts needed (when completed) is:

The common parts are:

The keg and it's parts disassembled.
#7 solid stopper (no holes)
A large washer (with the notch cut out)

For the ability to force transfer:

#7 solid stopper with two holes drilled
Racking cane in one hole with the end capped while fermenting
A barb in the other hole to add the spunding valve or blow off tube during fermentation. Once done, it will be the co2 line

The other option is for no force carbing:

Single hole with the spunding valve. When done, remove and rack as normal.

I also see no reason a thermowell couldn't be added.

I'm going to go to the LHBS to get some solid stoppers today. I hope to have it actually finished later tonight.
 
I almost went a similar route for fermentation. My only concern was how I was going to clean the inside of the keg between batches. Just out of curiosity, how do you plan to clean it?
 
I am guessing the same way you would clean a keg otherwise. Hot PBW/Oxyclean soak (brushing if needed, use a flashlight to tell) followed by a good rinse and a sanitizing.
 
I am guessing the same way you would clean a keg otherwise. Hot PBW/Oxyclean soak (brushing if needed, use a flashlight to tell) followed by a good rinse and a sanitizing.

That's exactly what I do. PBW soak, scrub with corny keg brush (I bent it 90° so it looks like a giant carboy brush), several rinsed then set upside down to dry. When I am brewing I give it rinse it down a few times, sanitize and flip it over to dry again. If I'm ever really concerned, I put it on the burner with a gallon of H20 and let it boil for about 15 mins. Works great.

You can get a telescoping dental mirror to look in there too.

OP, this is neat! Can't wait to see your final product!
 
DrunkleJon said:
I am guessing the same way you would clean a keg otherwise. Hot PBW/Oxyclean soak (brushing if needed, use a flashlight to tell) followed by a good rinse and a sanitizing.

I was thinking the same thing. I was always worried I wouldn't be able to get it clean enough. I had also considered cutting a hole in the top in the shape of a corny lid for access to clean it.
 
I was thinking the same thing. I was always worried I wouldn't be able to get it clean enough. I had also considered cutting a hole in the top in the shape of a corny lid for access to clean it.

That also works. I thought about that too, but I am not that steady handed... The corny brush made into a carboy brush works very well!
 
That's exactly what I do. PBW soak, scrub with corny keg brush (I bent it 90° so it looks like a giant carboy brush), several rinsed then set upside down to dry. When I am brewing I give it rinse it down a few times, sanitize and flip it over to dry again. If I'm ever really concerned, I put it on the burner with a gallon of H20 and let it boil for about 15 mins. Works great.

You can get a telescoping dental mirror to look in there too.

OP, this is neat! Can't wait to see your final product!

Yup this is exactly what I do. I also make sure I rinse the keg as soon as I'm done racking. The worst I've had Was some krausen ring build up that was easily removed by the brush and a rinse.

I don't think it's necessary to cut the lid. But for those who do, this is the most elegant solution I've seen. The drawback is this requires welding and two kegs. The lid comes from a keggle conversion. The fermenter hole is cut slightly smaller.

4 nuts are welded to the top of the keg. Screws and brackets attach the lid then it's tighten by the butterfly nuts.

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"Two kegs"..........For the donor lid, yes?

Hmmmm.......How's the bigger lid, fit in the smaller hole?

Or is there some big, gap filling, conformal gasket?
 
"Two kegs"..........For the donor lid, yes?

Hmmmm.......How's the bigger lid, fit in the smaller hole?

Or is there some big, gap filling, conformal gasket?

One keg is used as the fermenter where the hole is cut out at about 11" dia.
The second keg gets turned into a keggle where the lid is about 12" dia. That 12" lid is used on the fermenter. It just sits on top of the hole with about 1/2" over lap. The gasket is used to seal the lid via pressure from the screws.
 
Here it is... It works great and I'm happy with the simplicity of this project. Better metal tools would be great, but I got away with a drill, drill bit and a grinding stone. It holds a lot of pressure... Way more than 10psi.

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Very low profile
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You can adjust the racking cane
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Spunding valve attached
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This is awesome. Question... what is the hose clamp around the outside for?
 
Komocabo said:
This is awesome. Question... what is the hose clamp around the outside for?

I had the same question about the hose clamp. And I agree, this came out really nice. Not over engineered and well thought out. Great idea.
 
I plan on adding quick connects to change the spunding valve with the co2. I'm also thinking about adding a quick connect for the racking side, so that it will hold pressure but easily attach to my corney keg for transferring.

I'm thinking about putting a compression fitting over the racking cane. Like this:

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Then attach a corney keg ball valve to that.

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This is awesome. Question... what is the hose clamp around the outside for?

I had the same question about the hose clamp. And I agree, this came out really nice. Not over engineered and well thought out. Great idea.

Thanks guys...

The hose clamp was to help hold the latch (the one I made from the clothes hanger in the above picture. It makes it so I won't have to re apply the ring) but I actually think I can come up with a better solution that won't require the clamp. I'm still kinda working on it...
 
Do you know what NPT thread will match up with a corney keg fitting?
 
I have all the goods to make this, except the washer and bung. I'm totally going to copy this amazing design. Hope you won't mind... This is a cheap and easy DIY that will cost nothing compared to the $80 thing I've seen online.

My hat is off to you, sir.

Cheers!

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I gotta ask how would you dry hop this thing? Interesting build BTW. I am thinking of something like this for myself, and like you dont want to spend big bucks for it.
 
Do you know what NPT thread will match up with a corney keg fitting?

I THINK it's 1/4" but I'm not 100% sure...

I'm totally going to copy this amazing design. Hope you won't mind...

Not at all. That's why I posted it. I hope it works out for you. Post it up when you get it done or if you make any changes.
 
I gotta ask how would you dry hop this thing? Interesting build BTW. I am thinking of something like this for myself, and like you dont want to spend big bucks for it.

I would guess - just remove the complete "fitting" drop the hop bag/sack/ball/stocking/etc. in (and tie it off to one of the inside "loops" on the fitting for easier removal)
 
I gotta ask how would you dry hop this thing? Interesting build BTW. I am thinking of something like this for myself, and like you dont want to spend big bucks for it.

I want to keep everything under pressure from the time I pitch until it hits the glass. I plan to ferment in this keg. Then force transfer to a sealed corney keg that has a dry hopper inside of it. Then I can force transfer to the serving keg.
 
I applaud you!
CHEERS!

2 things

First, Can you let this thing sit overnight to verify it will actually hold pressure.

Second, can you put together a list of components or a Bill of Material.

I will do both... I already had the 10 psi holding for 30 minute before I released it to put things away, but I'll pressurize it again and sleep on it. I honestly think the spunding valve will leak before this thing haha...

After dinner I'll edit the original posting to include the info/build list.
 
Nice. I use the stock spear and a sankey coupler to do the same thing. Got lucky and scored a box of sankey couplers for next to nothing. If I didn't have the couplers, I'd probably look at doing something like this.

How are you capping the racking cane so that it holds 10psi?
 
Nice. I use the stock spear and a sankey coupler to do the same thing.

How are you capping the racking cane so that it holds 10psi?

Ya, I have a few sankey couplers. I was looking at using them, but they're way too bulky for my operation. I need my kegs to fit into my fermentation chamber, so the low profile is a must.

For the test, I put my spunding valve on the co2 barb. I put the co2 on the racking cane. However, I'm going to try to get a compression fitting for the racking cane and add a ball lock connector to it. That way it will be sealed during fermentation. Then I can quick connect a picnic spout to blow off any yeast. Then quick connect my transfer hose to force transfer to my corny keg. I'll also add a quick connect to my spunding valve, the co2 side and my co2 cylinder.
 
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