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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

Yakima 728
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barrooze said:
I use a CPVC manifold, but as for the ballvalve and fittings, I've never removed mine. I just spray it down after use and wash it with a fragrance free dish detergent. The hardest part is dumping the spent grain! :D

Well done on the build. All-grain is so much more fun than extract!
Click to expand...

Cool. That's what I figured. I mean everything coming out of the mash tun will get boiled before it is consumed, so no need to worry too much about it. And yeah, I'm psyched for the full-on all-grain. I've been doing BIAB for a while, but my equipment limited the amount of grain I could handle.

msa8967 said:
I use a home made voile sleeve over the stainless steel braids in my mash tuns. I secure these at the end with a plastic zip tie. I have never had a stuck mash and the vorlauf stage takes no time. Clear runnings from the very first pull on the tun. Does your system work in a similar way?
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Well, I originally thought of making a voile bag as big as the cooler, so I wouldn't need the steel braid at all. But I decided to go for the more traditional style instead. I'll definitely keep your idea in mind, if I have any issues with stuck sparges. Thanks for the tip.
 
Am I the only person who takes out the false bottom completely after a batch to clean it? I have the perforated stainless steel type, and some grain does get through. I don't want moldy grain hiding in my mashtun, even if I will be boiling wort that goes through it.
 
I take mine out every single time, I have the 12" domed one connected to the bulkhead/valve with tubing. No other way to clean it unless you like lactobacillus all up in your ****.
 
I have the same one, and I also clean it every time.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Home Brew mobile app
 
"Am I the only person who takes out the false bottom completely after a batch to clean it? I have the perforated stainless steel type, and some grain does get through. I don't want moldy grain hiding in my mashtun, even if I will be boiling wort that goes through"

I usually just spray it out well trying to get all grain out. Clean it maybe twice a year (using detergent and a sanitizing soak for all parts).
 
My local hardware store has 5/8 SS washers and I'm having to buy a pack of 10. Would anyone be interested in the others? I have heard these are hard to come by.
 
I've seen both the circular style cooler and the rectangle type as examples. Does either one work better than the other. Seems like the rectangle can have more line for filtering the wort by putting a tee fixture in it.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Do you have Palmer's book? It has lots of info on this project.

In concept, you're talking about a manifold, which is more efficient than a braid, especially with a rectangular cooler.

Sent from my SPH-L520 using Home Brew mobile app
 
I have been only looking at YouTube videos and most have the braid. Was thinking of going cheap at first since I'm used to extract kits.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app
 
Used mine for first time a few weeks ago, seemed to work! I just forgot to pre-heat the tun so didn't get the temps I was hoping.

Anybody have any recommendation on tubing size to attach to ball valve adapter? I'm guessing since its a 3/8" barb that 3/8" ID tubing would be sufficient and I'd want hi-temp tubing. I bought 1/2" ID and it was too big.
 
I think at Menards alot of what I saw was also up to 180 degrees, and yes that is plenty. Generally speaking the temps are going to be in the 140 degree range when I drain into the boil. I'll probably just get silicon unless its a ton more which I don't think it is.

Thanks for the info!
 
I use vinyl tubing - it softens a lot but has never given me any issues.

Just watch it doesn't kink when it's soft, it does a lot more when its up at higher temperatures
 
I definitely prefer silicone. Especially if you think a pump may factor into your setup at any time. The vinyl gets extremely soft and can cause flow issues.

As far as the id of the tubing. It depends on your ball valve. I run 1/2" 3 piece valves so I use 1/2" tubing. Something else you may want to consider if you're thinking about a pump...

I kinda have a coolers on crack system though... :)
 
I imagine that the answer is burried somewhere in the 268 prious thread pages. I would like to know which 10 gallon beverage cooler seems to make the best mash tun or are all of these about the same? Is Igloo better or worse than Rubbermaid? Is a push lid better or worse than a screw top lid?
 
msa8967 said:
I imagine that the answer is burried somewhere in the 268 prious thread pages. I would like to know which 10 gallon beverage cooler seems to make the best mash tun or are all of these about the same? Is Igloo better or worse than Rubbermaid? Is a push lid better or worse than a screw top lid?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure that there is a consensus. I've read strong feelings that Igloo has better quality, others that say that Rubbermaid works just fine. My personal suspicion is that the manufacturers had to cut corners for the cheaper models available at HD, Lowes, Walmart, etc., but that is just my conjecture--I have no proof.

I've read opinions both ways on screw vs. push lids. I read one post that did not like the newer Igloo push lid because of "notches" in the sides instead of tight fit the whole way around. I like the Igloo lid because the bottom is flat, which means that I can do a better job filling it with insulation.

IIRC, the Igloo coolers require 1/2" fittings and the Rubbermaid ones require 3/8" fittings.

Zorotools seems to have the best price for Igloo coolers, with $5 shipping and sometimes coupons available (do an online search).

I'm not sure why one would use the "dancing banana" smily, but I'm eating a banana with my lunch, so here goes: :ban:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm in the same boat as you trying to figure out which one is better. I'm leaning towards the home depot cooler. I will probably make one next month.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app
 
In the online reviews I read via Amazon and Home Depot both lose 1-2 degree or less for an hour of mashing which I think is great. I like to be able to see what I am buying but the local HD does not stock these right now. I have found that HBT members give me the most reliable sources of info.
 
fwiw, unless Rubbermaid has changed their cooler design, the 10 gallon model will use 1/2" fittings (because that's what I put on mine a few years ago).

No matter what you buy, pay close attention to exactly where the spigot is located. If it's off center relative to the "well" they poke through on the outside it means the hole was drilled off center, which could be a royal pita to work with (I've seen folks on HBT try to deal with that and it wasn't pretty if it worked at all - grinding odd shapes on fender washers, etc)...

Cheers!
 
msa8967 said:
Like this one? Is this a good price?

http://www.zorotools.com/g/Beverage Coolers and Accessories/00055135/
Click to expand...

I've never seen them in dark green/black, but the yellow ones look to be the correct ones. Personally, I use one of the old 48qt Igloo Ice Cube coolers I got 9 years ago from WalMart for $15. The thing holds temps solid throughout an hour-long mash. I can't imagine the standard Igloos or Rubbermaids being much worse. If it's easier for you to get a hold of the orange coolers, go for it, especially if they're in-store. That way you can get the exact bulkhead parts you need (i.e. 3/8" vs 1/2"). As homebrewers we often like to go EXTREME on DIY projects, but I don't know if it's necessary in this case.

Does anyone using an orange cooler have any comments on how well they hold temp over an entire mash?
 
barrooze said:
[...]Does anyone using an orange cooler have any comments on how well they hold temp over an entire mash?
Click to expand...

Properly preheated - and left alone after the mash-in stir! - mine will hold within two degrees for an hour. Otoh, if someone's over on brew days it's damned near impossible for them to leave the lid in place for that long without peeking, and I've lost an extra degree or so on those days.

I finally got that solved though - I laid up a nice thick piece of foam that I stick in a plastic bag and set on top of the bed, so "Nothing to see there, move along" is now the order of the day ;)

Cheers!
 
I have a thermometer on my Home Depot 10gal cooler mash tun. I stir only a time or two after mashing in and I lose a degree at most on the average brew day.
 
day_trippr said:
fwiw, unless Rubbermaid has changed their cooler design, the 10 gallon model will use 1/2" fittings (because that's what I put on mine a few years ago).

No matter what you buy, pay close attention to exactly where the spigot is located. If it's off center relative to the "well" they poke through on the outside it means the hole was drilled off center, which could be a royal pita to work with (I've seen folks on HBT try to deal with that and it wasn't pretty if it worked at all - grinding odd shapes on fender washers, etc)...

Cheers!
Click to expand...

The 10 gal orange home depot branded rubbermaid I bought from Home Depot last November only took 3/8" fittings. You can maybe tell the difference among the Home Depot ones from the design of the spigot - the 10 gallon one with a black rubber push button was the 3/8" kind, while the 5 gallon orange ones with the push button the same as the rest of the spigot were 1/2".

I think the more expensive red rubbermaid 5 gallon coolers in that Home Depot had 3/8" spigots though. Best to look carefully at the cooler before buying the hardware (if in store, go and pick up one each of the 1/2" and 3/8" nipples first, and try them).
 

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