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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

SSBrew - 728
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scottsr123 said:
Has anyone ever tried using one of these on a 5 or 10 gallon Rubbermaid to make a mash tun?
http://www.midwestsupplies.com/italian-bottling-spigot.html

They are a perfect fit for the existing spigot, and a 3/4" pipe fitting screws on the threads inside the cooler to attach a manifold. Anyone see a downside to this?
Click to expand...

It's just a spigot for a bottling bucket :D

Downside: probably can't handle the heat of the mash. Also, it's plastic so even if it can it won't last nearly as long as a metal one.
 
I tested this yesterday with 130 degree tap water and all was well. Will test today with some 175 degree water.

And yes, Reno, I realize it's a bottling bucket spigot; name was a dead give away! :). Just seems too cheap and easy to not give it a try.
 
scottsr123 said:
I tested this yesterday with 130 degree tap water and all was well. Will test today with some 175 degree water.

And yes, Reno, I realize it's a bottling bucket spigot; name was a dead give away! :). Just seems too cheap and easy to not give it a try.
Click to expand...

Lulz, yeah. It just doesn't seem nearly as sturdy to me. And heaven forbid a grain husk makes it through the manifold and gets stuck in the spigot.... that has the possibility of requiring some serious effort to get unstuck.
 
The guys at my LHBS use that setup for their coolers and told me the only issue they have is sometimes the spigot knob tries to rise up out of the handle when it gets too hot. Other than that, they have no issues. I don't know if I'd be comfortable using them, but thought the info would be useful
 
Appreciate the feedback. I tested my cooler with this spigot today with 180 degree water for an hour with no issues. I'll go ahead and finish my manifold and give it a try.
 
I am looking to make this sometime this week. I jumped back 50 pages just to read a little bit and see if anything has changed and I happened to stumble across FlyGuy mentioning that he no longer recommends using the vinyl tubing. What is he doing differently now? I'll be reading some more later tonight but 175 pages is a lot. If anyone knows what he recommends now, I'd appreciate it.
 
jaredkent said:
I am looking to make this sometime this week. I jumped back 50 pages just to read a little bit and see if anything has changed and I happened to stumble across FlyGuy mentioning that he no longer recommends using the vinyl tubing. What is he doing differently now? I'll be reading some more later tonight but 175 pages is a lot. If anyone knows what he recommends now, I'd appreciate it.
Click to expand...

What's on the first page is still good. I use a SS coiled spring from mcmastercarr.com inside my SS braid but the rest is exactly the same.
 
is 3/8" the consensus choice? i ordered an igloo 10 gal cooler a week ago. morebeer stocks all the 1/2" parts (including their kettle screen) but not 3/8"
 
I built this a few weeks ago and had been letting it sit in my basement covered.* As I was building it, I put the brass stuff into a solution of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide to get the lead out.* I only did it for a few minutes as suggested until the brass was a buttery yellow.* Once I completed the build, I put the cover on and placed the MLT down in my basement to store (I have not yet used it for a mash).* When I checked it the other day, my inside brass fitting had some black crud on it (pic attached).* Anyone know what it is?* Mold?* Additional lead?*

ForumRunner_20111003_073501.jpg


ForumRunner_20111003_073558.jpg
 
Finally used mine! Worked great.

The first 10g cooler I bought was from my LHBS and I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't work. Discovered that when he replaced the stock spigot with an on/off spigot, he took out the stock o ring seal thing. So that is now my HLT. Bought one at home depot, made it my mash tun.
 
I'm a bit confused ..... I'm in the plumbing and heating trade and we use brass fittings all the time for potable drinking water. what is all this concern about lead ??? even moreso why do we think it's only on the surface where vinegar and peroxide will remove it ( I'm assuming this is a form of acid washig). If I'm getting the basic idea of this we want to remove the surface contaminents because the Mash temps may "melt" the lead into the wort. But based on this assumption the we would have to do this all the time as the negligable amt of lead is found throughout the entire brass fitting and will always be present in some amount. Also what about every single water connection in our homes all our r14 and r19 connections are brass same as what we have here but we don't acid wash these..... sorry to be on a rant I just don't understand why the big concern about acid washing the fittings.
 
day_trippr said:
The short answer is: wort - and beer - are acidic...

Cheers!
Click to expand...
I understand that part of it ( acidity of the wort and beer ) but what is the concern with lead leaching ? lead is soluble at high temps not at acidic ph. The color change after the peroxide and vinegar is due to oxidation and corrosion of the brass and copper compounds in the fitting not because we removed lead.
 
I'm not trying to argue with anyone I just want to understand the science behind why we are trying to "clean" the brass. If the state of california which believe it or not has the highest standards for lead detection and reduction says brass nipples, ball valves , couplings anything with the csa stamp on it is safe for human potable water consumption then why are we trying to chemically alter it ? p.s. and believe me I'm not arguing but carbonated water ( co2 + H2o ) causes the formation of carbonic acid which yes even a mild acid will give a few ppm worth of lead film but lead will dissolve at high temps much more readily but I do stand corrected acid will remove lead.Also check this out.

NSF International is at the forefront of the low-lead plumbing products issue, having actively worked with the State of California and other key States for over fifteen years, through the ongoing development of NSF/ANSI Standard 61 (NSF 61). The standard has played a key role in CA Proposition 65 lead settlements and is now the American National Standard for lead content in plumbing products.

Most recently, NSF developed the evaluation procedures in NSF/ANSI Standard 372 (NSF 372) to establish an American National Standard to determine product compliance with the ≤0.25% percent maximum weighted average lead content requirement. NSF/ANSI Standard 61, Annex G (NSF 61-G) references NSF 372. Certification to NSF 61-G or NSF 372 meets the requirements of the California Health and Safety Code (Section 116875; commonly known as AB1953) as well as for other states developing similar regulations. This also meets the new low lead requirements of the U.S. Safe Drinking Water Act, which go into effect in January 2014.

NSF offers certification to NSF 61-G and NSF 372 to manufacturers of products that contact drinking water, including faucets, flexible plumbing connectors, valves, meters and many other product types.

This webpage has been created to assist all involved parties with recent happenings in regards to legislation of low-lead plumbing products, NSF 61, Annex G, NSF 372 and certification. We encourage you to bookmark this page and check back frequently for the latest information.
 
HootHootHoot said:
I bought a 3/4" x 18" water heater connector instead of the 1/2" diameter... Will this still work or should I go look for a 1/2"?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100261679/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Just seems real big compared to the fittings that will go on each side. But will this matter if I zip tie it down real good?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I'd get the 1/2. The larger diameter hose won't really benefit you, and may just cause more dead space.
 
to anyone considering whether to get a kettle screen or construct one, i'd really recommend getting one for the $18-20 they cost. they're incredibly sturdy and do not require structural reinforcement. they twist out and can be cleaned, whereas the water heater screens are very fragile.
 
To chime in on that note of structural integrity, you could also make a CPVC manifold. Mine works wonderfully.

The picture shows it upside-down to show the holes I made.

photo 3.jpg
 
i just did this build but a little simpler somehow tweak... i used 1/2 inch ball valve and needing no o rings just the original seal from the cooler with one washer tightened up against it..also used a tee to make a loop instead of the one line of ss braid, testing it right now for an hour at 145 to see my temp loss. As far as leaks i've been looking meticulously and not one drip! can't wait to do my first 5 gallon ag batch
 
Thanks for this. I just made mine as per the instructions. Now I just need a turkey fryer and wort chiller and I will be going all grain.
 
I made the same thing using the original instructions but inside instead of the hose and clamps I purchased a screen with. 1/2 inch male end. And got a 3/8 to 1/2 female end to connect it to.
 

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