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Cheap & Easy 10 Gallon Rubbermaid MLT Conversion

CornyKegs 728
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BendBrewer said:
Just got back from the HD. 10 Gallon cooler is still 39 bucks.

Found almost everthing on the list.....(darn, forgot the high temp tubing. got to have a home brew now.......................)

ah.

OK

The Cut a Bolt kit that I saw clearly stated they were ZINC coated. I did not buy this and will hit the Fastenal store on the way home for the SS washer.

For the other 3 5/8 washers, I could only find what was called CUT washers in the 5/8 size. Although they aren't 'cut'. They are flat and a little thicker than the smaller sized Fender Washers. I saw Fender Washers but not in that size.

Is there a difference?
Click to expand...

You definitely want the SS washer on the inside -- so I hope you found them at Fastenal.

Regarding the washers on the outside, they are just spacers to help tighten the fittings. Just use whatever works (it sounds like the ones you found should do the trick).

And regarding the high temp hose -- please re-read the thread. I no longer recommend using that AT ALL. More trouble than it is worth.

I hope the build all goes well, and that your first batch out of the new mash tun turns out fantastic!
 
Well thanks for the initial post and all the follow up that you have done regarding it Fly-Guy.

I'll pick up the SS washer on my way home. Put the rest of it together, Nothing Tightened, at my desk at work and realized those outside washers are going to work just fine.

Can you point me to a page number for the alternative to the high temp hose? I saw hose clamps didn't work and only noticed the hose as an alternative.

And, when are we going to hit the Deschutes?

l_8bd54f598305ec34ae5034fd0b3caf8a.jpg


Cheers! :mug:
 
My pleasure -- glad you found the info helpful!

If you can get all stainless hose clamps, they still work the best. I have since switched back to them. But if you can find rigid, high temp tubing, that stuff works like a charm. I got mine at Rona (sort of like a Lowes up here in Canada).

Regarding the Deschutes.... would LOVE to fish that sometime! Nice fish, BTW!!

Maybe I can reciprocate and take you to some good spots up north!

Harrison.jpg
 
Likewise on the fish and you're on!!! Anytime.

SS hose clamps it is. 10 batches of PM brews and it looks like #11 will be an AG. Awesome job on this thread.

Tight lines!
 
I tackled a mash-tun build yesterday, but like many, I cannot find any 5'8" SS washers. Going to try a boating shop tomorrow. Perhaps they have some?
 
So I went out and got all the parts to convert my two ten gallon coolers into HLT & MLT. I planned on using this design for the bulkheads for both.

I ran into a "problem" though. Maybe its not a problem at all. I got the exact part numbers of the parts list. The 3/8" nipple is a lot smaller than the pre-drilled hole in my cooler. Its also a lot smaller than the rubber washer that came with the cooler so there is a lot of space between the outside diameter of the nipple and inside diameter of the rubber washer. About 1/8" all the way around.

How did everyone who used this design work around this problem? Are additional parts needed so that it won't leak? o-ring on the inside somehow?
 
I'm working with 2 ten gallon igloo coolers if that helps. Wondering if I need to take everything back and get half inch? or if I'm just missing something with how this all works?
 
yeast_infection said:
I'm working with 2 ten gallon igloo coolers if that helps. Wondering if I need to take everything back and get half inch? or if I'm just missing something with how this all works?
Click to expand...

If the Igloo coolers have a hole and spigot gasket that is larger than the Rubbermaid, then by all means just upsize to 1/2" parts instead. The general design should still be the same.

My whole purpose in using the 3/8" parts was that they fit the Rubbermaid spigot gasket PERFECTLY. If your parts fit a 1/2" gasket, then that will work too (in fact, some might prefer the larger hardware, albeit slightly more expensive).
 
I actually put together Fly Guy's exact design yesterday and had all 3/8 parts but could've used 1/2 instead. What I did though was to use 1/16" thick rubber washers that had a 5/8 ID to fit right over the middle of the double male threaded piece. Put a rubber washer on either side and tightened it down on both sides. Filled it to the brim and let it sit for an hour and no leak to be found.

Brewed 30 minutes after that still great.

Thanks Fly Guy for all the info.
 
I got her to work lol. It cost me an extra $3 to return everything (all parts X 2 - MLT & HLT) and exchange the 3/8 for 1/2. Works like a charm. Used the same exact design only everything 1/2 rather than 3/8.

Can't wait to brew with em.
 
Does the configuration that Flyguy talks about here, also work at the top of the MLT if you intend on recirculating the wort with a pump? I'm concerned with the contour of the round cooler. Maybe a flat walled cooler would be easier to attached the higher inlet connection. Any thoughts?

BB
 
I had a hell of time getting mine to not leak out around the ball valve. I reused the original washer that came with the original spigot, SS washer and a couple outside. Tightened it so much the cooler was screeching. I ended up going to Lowe's and getting a 5/8" rubber grommet. I put this in the hole for the spigot, then did everything as instructed minus the factory rubber washer. NO LEAKS I am proud to say...
 
snevey said:
I had a hell of time getting mine to not leak out around the ball valve. I reused the original washer that came with the original spigot, SS washer and a couple outside. Tightened it so much the cooler was screeching. I ended up going to Lowe's and getting a 5/8" rubber grommet. I put this in the hole for the spigot, then did everything as instructed minus the factory rubber washer. NO LEAKS I am proud to say...
Click to expand...

Actually, over-tightening is the leading cause of leaks. Did you try backing off a bit? I bet that was it.

Also, did you use teflon tape on the fittings? That's a must (for the nipple and ball valve at least).
 
I'd like to thank you FlyGuy for giving me all I need to do my first All Grain Batch. I got the exact same cooler and it worked. I did modify things a bit. I couldn't find a 5/8's SS Washer so I used a 3/4 SS Washer... In order to get seal I used two ruber 5/8's wasthers one inside and one out.....

I used 30" braid...I must say it got tangled up pretty good in first batch so I'm not sure if I need a shorter braid or go ahead an build a manifold....

I can't wait to taste this batch.........:mug::rockin:
 
If you can't find 5/8 ss washers, make them. Take a 1 1/2 od ss washer with a smaller hole lock it into a vise and drill out the center hole with a step drill bit to 5/8 . Cool the bit with a little wd40. Deburr the new hole (sand paper wraped around a wood dowel will work) and clean off. you will now have a 5/8 ss washer.
 
bernerbrau said:
I get really bad temperature loss with this setup. Even when pre-heating the tun with boiling water. What did I do wrong?
Click to expand...

I ran this setup for what ended up being 2 hours and at an hour and a half, it had not dropped an entire degree. Granted, it was entirely full, 24 lbs of grain. The only parts that were halfway warm were the valve and a little bit of the lid.

Were you possibly somewhere breezy?
 
bernerbrau said:
I get really bad temperature loss with this setup. Even when pre-heating the tun with boiling water. What did I do wrong?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't put boiling water in there, I don't think it's rated for that and you might get some cracking or splitting (I've seen pics of that).

How bad of a temp loss? When I put my strike water in 10F over what I want to mash it's a PITA as I don't get heat loss. I have to usually wait and keep stirring to get the temps down.

Are you using the big orange water cooler that most others are using here or a thinner walled rectangle cooler (sorry, didn't look through to see if you posted otherwise). The lid...I'm not sure it's as insulated, when it's cooler I put a folded up blanket on top to help keep the heat in but when it's 60F+ outside I get no heat loss over an hour.

Good luck.
 
Big orange water cooler. I typically lose 10F or so doughing in, then another 10F over the hour.

Makes mashout at 170 really difficult.

And nope, I'm doing this indoors.
 

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