Cheap compact wort pump

[Brewitt]

Do you guys run these little pumps wide open or do you install a valve on the output flow?

I used a PMW for several brew days and was frustrated with the lack of control between almost off and full blast. I just installed a downstream ball valve and am much happier with it.

 

[Brewitt]

Do you guys run these little pumps wide open or do you install a valve on the output flow?

I used a PMW for several brew days and was frustrated with the lack of control between almost off and full blast. I just installed a downstream ball valve and am much happier with it.

 

[Slow_Day]

I used a PMW for several brew days and was frustrated with the lack of control between almost off and full blast. I just installed a downstream ball valve and am much happier with it.

I don't have that issue with mine. I have pretty much infinite adjustment with a smooth twist of a knob. At the low end, it goes from a trickle to off.

 

[Hermit]

I used a PMW for several brew days and was frustrated with the lack of control between almost off and full blast. I just installed a downstream ball valve and am much happier with it.

Maybe it is an amp mismatch? I've read that is possible. Doesn't make sense, but, that's what I've read. I guess it could depend on the circuit.

 

[Brewitt]

Maybe it is an amp mismatch? I've read that is possible. Doesn't make sense, but, that's what I've read. I guess it could depend on the circuit.

That does indeed seem like a problem. I thought I check the specs before buying but I will look into it. In any case, it works well with the ball valve. Thanks for the reminder.

 

[johns]

A question about the tan 24v one and that is, what is the most amps this thing should pull or and is there a limit to it. I am thinking about using an old pc transformer. I think they are rated at about 17 volt.

I bought a the black one several years back and had never had problem with it, so now I am thinking about getting the tan pump to circulate my wort through my herms, The black one will push through 19 ft of copper coil, but I think the tan pump could to a better job. Then I could use the black pump for a back up.

 

[squash1978]

BTW if you read this thread you will find that most who complained of problems with these pumps and bothered to actually check and report back have admitted that the power supply was the issue... some used ones that weren't rated for enough amps and some used a lower voltage than speced... And then theres the possibility that the supply can just fail which is not uncommon (especially from bad caps as wbarber mentioned) There are also many cases where the pump was dryfired of jammed with grain...
I can only speak for myself but with proper power and prefiltering of the wort this has not been an issue at all for me in over 40 brew sessions with these pumps.

I did have one pump that froze up twice on me and when I pulled it apart I found the shaft bushing seemed to be molded too large and the fit was too tight..
I actually took that part from the pump I dropped and broke and swapped them and I have not had the issue occur since.

This certainly was the case for me. I recently purchased one of the tan pumps off of Amazon along with a 12v, 1A power supply and an inline toggle switch.

pump: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWORE5A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
power supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GEPUYA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
switch: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U5JWQW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Once I got the pump wired up and turned it on for the first time, the impeller would just stutter. Basically it would just start and stop really quickly. I verified with a multimeter that the power supply was pushing 12v so at first I thought I bust the pump by running it dry (just for a few seconds to test the power). I ended up finding another 12v, 1A power supply I had in the house for an electronic keyboard and gave it a try instead. As soon as I turned it, the pump started running like a champ!

The odd thing is that when I plugged in the "busted" power supply to the electric keyboard, it powered up and played fine. My best guess is that for some reason the male connector on the original power supply is not making a good connection to the female plug on the pump switch.

I'm just stoked that I got it working, I was getting worried for a little bit

 

[iijakii]

Did run throughs last night with my 12v TS5's. Very happy with the flow at full speed, and they pump boiling water fine. Brewing today. Hopefully nothing clogs.

 

[augiedoggy]

This certainly was the case for me. I recently purchased one of the tan pumps off of Amazon along with a 12v, 1A power supply and an inline toggle switch.

pump: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DWORE5A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
power supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GEPUYA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
switch: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U5JWQW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Once I got the pump wired up and turned it on for the first time, the impeller would just stutter. Basically it would just start and stop really quickly. I verified with a multimeter that the power supply was pushing 12v so at first I thought I bust the pump by running it dry (just for a few seconds to test the power). I ended up finding another 12v, 1A power supply I had in the house for an electronic keyboard and gave it a try instead. As soon as I turned it, the pump started running like a champ!

The odd thing is that when I plugged in the "busted" power supply to the electric keyboard, it powered up and played fine. My best guess is that for some reason the male connector on the original power supply is not making a good connection to the female plug on the pump switch.

I'm just stoked that I got it working, I was getting worried for a little bit

its likely that the 12v supply was putting out 12v but not supplying enough amps ...1 amp should have been enough but I have seen many faulty cheap supplies do this... they sometimes only put out a fraction of the current they are rated for. funny because I had an andriod tv box come with that same supply an it was faulty the same way.

 

[augiedoggy]

A question about the tan 24v one and that is, what is the most amps this thing should pull or and is there a limit to it. I am thinking about using an old pc transformer. I think they are rated at about 17 volt.

I bought a the black one several years back and had never had problem with it, so now I am thinking about getting the tan pump to circulate my wort through my herms, The black one will push through 19 ft of copper coil, but I think the tan pump could to a better job. Then I could use the black pump for a back up.

1 amp or higher is fine... running the 24v pump on 17v will just make it pump slower. a 24v 1 amp supply costs well under $10 shipped from ebay....

 

[augiedoggy]

I used a PMW for several brew days and was frustrated with the lack of control between almost off and full blast. I just installed a downstream ball valve and am much happier with it.

this happens if you try to use the pwm controllers designed for say led lighting instead of driving a motor... basically you need the correct frequency range pwm for driving a motor.

 

[Brewitt]

this happens if you try to use the pwm controllers designed for say led lighting instead of driving a motor... basically you need the correct frequency range pwm for driving a motor.

Can someone recommend an appropriate PWM from Amazon that will correct that problem for my 12v tops flow pump? Probably in here somewhere but....(I'm being lazy and one of you might know off the top of your head).

 

[wbarber69]

Topsflow pumps don't work very well with pwm. Unless it's one of the models specifically designed with built in speed control. If all you have is a black and red wire then you won't benefit from a pwm

 

[Brewitt]

Topsflow pumps don't work very well with pwm. Unless it's one of the models specifically designed with built in speed control. If all you have is a black and red wire then you won't benefit from a pwm

Well, perhaps that explains it. I was under the impression that people were using those with PWMs. I discovered the PWM I bought is an LED PWM. It does regulate speed but very clumsily. I guess I'll be fine with the ball valve downstream.

 

[wbarber69]

Yeah the topsflo pumps are made for solar applications so the motor will run as fast as possible no matter what voltage it's given.

 

[Slow_Day]

Topsflow pumps don't work very well with pwm. Unless it's one of the models specifically designed with built in speed control. If all you have is a black and red wire then you won't benefit from a pwm

This is the first I have heard this. Mine works great with pwm. Check out a few of Augie's posts on the subject. He has been using these successfully with different combinations for a while.

 

[wbarber69]

Video or it didn't happen. I've tried multiple pwm setups with solar pumps and none have had the desired effect. And i believe auggie is using the tan pumps

 

[AnOldUR]

PWM on these pumps is a solution without a problem. Chances are, you have/need a ball valve on the output side anyway and the pumps work perfect using one to throttle the flow. IMO a mechanical solution is always better than electrical or automated at the homebrew level. KISS!

(edit: but I understand the need for more toys )

 

[augiedoggy]

This is the first I have heard this. Mine works great with pwm. Check out a few of Augie's posts on the subject. He has been using these successfully with different combinations for a while.

Yes your using the topsflo tan food pumps like me... The black topsflo and stainless ones (without the coated magnets) were designed for solar hot water pump use and use MPPT buck/boost technology to drive the pump as best it can with varying voltage and ampherage from the solar panels.
I posted links to the pwm controllers I use with no issues... they are actually cheaper than a stainless ballvalve and I dont have to clean them. plus I can easily mark my speeds for repeatability... True its Not needed but theres more than one way to skin a cat or make beer

 

[wbarber69]

Ahh I wasn't aware that topsflo made the cheap tan pumps. Carry on.

 

[steveoatley]

Thanks for this thread, I have completed my little Solar pump project

Built into a little box, to protect the circuit & power.

I plan to use strictly for water movement, recirculation for my EHERMS build
Recirculation of H2O for Chilling down as well.

Pics are of water test on my BK
Not bad for $50 in parts.

Thanks for the help.
Steve

 

[Chrisde]

This is the first I have heard this. Mine works great with pwm. Check out a few of Augie's posts on the subject. He has been using these successfully with different combinations for a while.

Okay.... so I have read about 75% of this thread now and still have no idea of what pwm to get. I want to use the 24v pump with 24v power supply. Can anyone suggest a pwm they know work well with these?

 

[Slow_Day]

Okay.... so I have read about 75% of this thread now and still have no idea of what pwm to get. I want to use the 24v pump with 24v power supply. Can anyone suggest a pwm they know work well with these?

Here is a useful post I used from another of Augie's threads:

As far as powering and controlling the speed of the DC pumps I used....

I recomment going with the 24v versions of these pumps instead of 12v. The 24v are more powerful. these pumps are food grade and rated for boiling temps. there are many sellers selling these. I have bought 5 from 5 different sellers and they are all identical with the same pps coated magnets .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36116338235...49&var=630516827839&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have used two different types of speed controllers for the pump motors (These are not needed but they are a safer and easier way to control pump speed and prevent stuck sparges in my opinion) they are very easy to wire up...power in and power out to pump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V...764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418d82efcc

These are slightly better in my opinion. You can find these much cheaper than this if you search.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HKFAIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These are a pretty nice alternative I just discovered and havent tried yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261678264066?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

for the main pump power switches I used these led illuminated switches. Just make sure to order the correct 12 or 24v switches or the light wont work. they are also available in many colors. (you need to solder or use small narrow spade connectors to install.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-16MM-R...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dbb79387

And finally power supplies....
if you are going with 12v all you need is a 2-3amp supply to run a couple pumps at once like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3A-DC-P...113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3378c8b349

I prefer this type, although I found a better 3 amp version for $8 shipped with some searching... keep in mind more amps wont hurt anything but each pump needs about 1 amp to run correctly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161285389741?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-25-12-Sup...849?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339dbb1201


I upgraded to 24v dc so I went with a 6 or 7 amp supply but this 5 amp would be more than enought to run all the pumps and relays and still power a dc fan to cool the ssr heatsinks...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-24V-5A-1...884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a32fe86cc

 

[Chrisde]

Here is a useful post I used from another of Augie's threads:

Thank you for this link. I literally read over 800 posts in this tread and opened augies thread and noticed it was over 100 posts. I guess I should have started here and saved a ton if time. Thanks again

 

[bembel]

Amazing info at this 'end' of the thread, cant wait to get one and tinker!

Can someone please share a link to the best place for the camlocks or CPC disconnects and what size to get? And thanks to those who put up the links for the pumps and power supplies

I want to use this as both a pump from my 10 gallon cooler MLT ( ball valve and barb currently) to my immersion chiller sitting inside my BK to make my own HERMS system for the mash, and then connect it to my BK after the boil to re-circ the wort into a whirlpool against the chiller when it is connected to the cold water for chilling.

Thinking of getting one of the sous vide sticks for the temp control, they were on sale last week for $99 and a ton of folks use them for mashing, this way, mash with indirect heat, but open for suggestions, trying to make a DIY version of the BrewBoss or High Gravity BIAB systems.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UET2UI2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[wbarber69]

Check out brewhardware.com for all the camlock and quick disconnects. They even sell just about every adapter you could run across.

 

[augiedoggy]

Check out brewhardware.com for all the camlock and quick disconnects. They even sell just about every adapter you could run across.

Yes there or bargainfittings.com ...

 

[Mirilis]

so I read the last few pages of this and i have a quick question. I bought the black 24v pump, and I have a 24v 1A power supply wired to it that I stole from my CUBLOC... can i just buy any PWM like THIS ONE and be fine? Ill rig a way for it to look nice later.

is there a better option that the one I linked? I have some Amazon credit coming so I need to buy it from there.

 

[bembel]

Has anyone used the polypro camlocks, any reason not to?

http://store.proflowdynamics.com/modules/store/-Polypropylene_C67.cfm

 

[wbarber69]

I'd end up cracking those...