Cheap compact wort pump

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Thanks for this thread, I have completed my little Solar pump project

Built into a little box, to protect the circuit & power.

I plan to use strictly for water movement, recirculation for my EHERMS build
Recirculation of H2O for Chilling down as well.

Pics are of water test on my BK
Not bad for $50 in parts.

Thanks for the help.
Steve

photo1.jpg


photo2.jpg
 
This is the first I have heard this. Mine works great with pwm. Check out a few of Augie's posts on the subject. He has been using these successfully with different combinations for a while.

Okay.... so I have read about 75% of this thread now and still have no idea of what pwm to get. I want to use the 24v pump with 24v power supply. Can anyone suggest a pwm they know work well with these?
 
Okay.... so I have read about 75% of this thread now and still have no idea of what pwm to get. I want to use the 24v pump with 24v power supply. Can anyone suggest a pwm they know work well with these?


Here is a useful post I used from another of Augie's threads:

As far as powering and controlling the speed of the DC pumps I used....

I recomment going with the 24v versions of these pumps instead of 12v. The 24v are more powerful. these pumps are food grade and rated for boiling temps. there are many sellers selling these. I have bought 5 from 5 different sellers and they are all identical with the same pps coated magnets .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36116338235...49&var=630516827839&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I have used two different types of speed controllers for the pump motors (These are not needed but they are a safer and easier way to control pump speed and prevent stuck sparges in my opinion) they are very easy to wire up...power in and power out to pump.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V...764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item418d82efcc

These are slightly better in my opinion. You can find these much cheaper than this if you search.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009HKFAIQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

These are a pretty nice alternative I just discovered and havent tried yet.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261678264066?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

for the main pump power switches I used these led illuminated switches. Just make sure to order the correct 12 or 24v switches or the light wont work. they are also available in many colors. (you need to solder or use small narrow spade connectors to install.)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-16MM-R...703?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27dbb79387

And finally power supplies....
if you are going with 12v all you need is a 2-3amp supply to run a couple pumps at once like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-3A-DC-P...113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3378c8b349

I prefer this type, although I found a better 3 amp version for $8 shipped with some searching... keep in mind more amps wont hurt anything but each pump needs about 1 amp to run correctly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161285389741?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/S-25-12-Sup...849?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item339dbb1201


I upgraded to 24v dc so I went with a 6 or 7 amp supply but this 5 amp would be more than enought to run all the pumps and relays and still power a dc fan to cool the ssr heatsinks...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-24V-5A-1...884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item2a32fe86cc
 
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Here is a useful post I used from another of Augie's threads:

Thank you for this link. I literally read over 800 posts in this tread and opened augies thread and noticed it was over 100 posts. I guess I should have started here and saved a ton if time. Thanks again
 
Amazing info at this 'end' of the thread, cant wait to get one and tinker!

Can someone please share a link to the best place for the camlocks or CPC disconnects and what size to get? And thanks to those who put up the links for the pumps and power supplies

I want to use this as both a pump from my 10 gallon cooler MLT ( ball valve and barb currently) to my immersion chiller sitting inside my BK to make my own HERMS system for the mash, and then connect it to my BK after the boil to re-circ the wort into a whirlpool against the chiller when it is connected to the cold water for chilling.

Thinking of getting one of the sous vide sticks for the temp control, they were on sale last week for $99 and a ton of folks use them for mashing, this way, mash with indirect heat, but open for suggestions, trying to make a DIY version of the BrewBoss or High Gravity BIAB systems.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UET2UI2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Check out brewhardware.com for all the camlock and quick disconnects. They even sell just about every adapter you could run across.
 
so I read the last few pages of this and i have a quick question. I bought the black 24v pump, and I have a 24v 1A power supply wired to it that I stole from my CUBLOC... can i just buy any PWM like THIS ONE and be fine? Ill rig a way for it to look nice later.

is there a better option that the one I linked? I have some Amazon credit coming so I need to buy it from there.
 
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so I read the last few pages of this and i have a quick question. I bought the black 24v pump, and I have a 24v 1A power supply wired to it that I stole from my CUBLOC... can i just buy any PWM like THIS ONE and be fine? Ill rig a way for it to look nice later.

is there a better option that the one I linked? I have some Amazon credit coming so I need to buy it from there.

I went this route for the PWM. I have 24v pump

http://m.ebay.com/itm/261678264066?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&_mwBanner=1

Used it twice without issue. No noise at any percentage and u can control it from 1-100%.

Only "issue" I guess is if you turn pump on when it is set below X% (X% depends on head height) it won't pump and whines. All I have to do is turn it up to 80+% and when it starts flowing turn it down to where I want it set.
 
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so I read the last few pages of this and i have a quick question. I bought the black 24v pump, and I have a 24v 1A power supply wired to it that I stole from my CUBLOC... can i just buy any PWM like THIS ONE and be fine? Ill rig a way for it to look nice later.

is there a better option that the one I linked? I have some Amazon credit coming so I need to buy it from there.


Yes, that is one that Augie linked to in his recommendations.
 
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so I read the last few pages of this and i have a quick question. I bought the black 24v pump, and I have a 24v 1A power supply wired to it that I stole from my CUBLOC... can i just buy any PWM like THIS ONE and be fine? Ill rig a way for it to look nice later.

is there a better option that the one I linked? I have some Amazon credit coming so I need to buy it from there.

there are like 6 or 7 24v black pumps that I know of... I have no idea what your using... if its one of the non food grade ones meant for solar powered water pumping its got mppt circuitry which wont work very well with the pwm speed controller...
 
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This would be what would stop me:

Polypropylene Cam and Groove Couplings are manufactured from acid resistant 20% glass reinforced Polypropylene. Max temperature for Polypropylene is 160 degrees farenheit.

From the Pro Flow's FAQ

and the max safe temp for anyone using a cooler mashtun is only 170 yet many here exceed it... not saying it right, just pointing it out.
 
and the max safe temp for anyone using a cooler mashtun is only 170 yet many here exceed it... not saying it right, just pointing it out.

Good point - however I also recirculate through my CFC during the last five minutes of the boil, so I would be hesitant to use them. They would work in certain circumstances - and they are cheaper.
 
Thanks for this thread, I have completed my little Solar pump project

Built into a little box, to protect the circuit & power.

I plan to use strictly for water movement, recirculation for my EHERMS build
Recirculation of H2O for Chilling down as well.

Pics are of water test on my BK
Not bad for $50 in parts.

Thanks for the help.
Steve

Hey guys - A little up date

I bought the 12v Solar pump on eBay - seller - accecity2006
And the pump has failed with only 15 hours of use.
I am guessing 3 hours of use for build & testing - not at high temp
12 hours of actual brewing - when this pump is ONLY used to moved water
to recirculate Sparge water, and recirculate chilling water threw HERMS coil.
Never any use above 170F

And the pump failed on me this weekend during a Brew

BEWARE e-Bay Seller = accecity - China of course
It was only $19, but I expected it to last longer than 15 hours !

Does anyone have a US supplier of this pump ?
Someone a little more reputable ?

Thanks

photo1.jpg
 
Good point - however I also recirculate through my CFC during the last five minutes of the boil, so I would be hesitant to use them. They would work in certain circumstances - and they are cheaper.

except I have found many references to they tan pumps being safe to 230 degrees and being made of food grade pps just like the propellers in the march and chugger pumps
 
Hey guys - A little up date

I bought the 12v Solar pump on eBay - seller - accecity2006
And the pump has failed with only 15 hours of use.
I am guessing 3 hours of use for build & testing - not at high temp
12 hours of actual brewing - when this pump is ONLY used to moved water
to recirculate Sparge water, and recirculate chilling water threw HERMS coil.
Never any use above 170F

And the pump failed on me this weekend during a Brew

BEWARE e-Bay Seller = accecity - China of course
It was only $19, but I expected it to last longer than 15 hours !

Does anyone have a US supplier of this pump ?
Someone a little more reputable ?

Thanks
your picture shows that you are restricting the flow on the intake side of the pump with a ballvalve... that causes cavitation and will kill or damage any pump...

These pumps are made in china. you can find sellers in the us but at 1 1/2 times the price...

I bought 2 from that same seller and have had no issues... did you contact them about a replacement? usually as long as you didnt leave feedback yet they will replace them free of charge.

keep in mind I have over 50 brew sessions with recirculation going the whole time and even though I switched from 12v to 24v pumps about 8 months ago they all still work fine....
what happened to yours? did it seize? thats a good indicator you may have burned it up by either running it dry or cavitation.
 
your picture shows that you are restricting the flow on the intake side of the pump with a ballvalve... that causes cavitation and will kill or damage any pump...

Augiedoggy

The Ball value is on the kettle, not the pump. Here is better pic of pump set up
The pump has quick Disconnects mounted to it.

Pump gave No indication of it's failure.....? Just stopped working. It does vibrate when powered, but no rotation of propeller.

I bought the pump in March - so the seller is not interested in my request.

I bought another off ebay - a different seller - just so I can get back to brewing

I am probably going to get another March pump set up when I have more time.
I can't rely on a $16 pump

Steve

photo2.jpg
 
Augiedoggy

The Ball value is on the kettle, not the pump. Here is better pic of pump set up
The pump has quick Disconnects mounted to it.

Pump gave No indication of it's failure.....? Just stopped working. It does vibrate when powered, but no rotation of propeller.

I bought the pump in March - so the seller is not interested in my request.

I bought another off ebay - a different seller - just so I can get back to brewing

I am probably going to get another March pump set up when I have more time.
I can't rely on a $16 pump

Steve

Yes and the ballvalve is on the intake side of the pump.... meaning if you ever ran the pump without that valve completely open you likely damaged the pump.

(your earlier pic appears to show the ballvalve half closed with the switch in the up position. I'm assuming the pump may be running since thers no other reason to have the valve open at all.)

You know if you do a search here on march and chugger pumps you'll see a lot of threads where they fail too.... sometimes from improper use sometimes from a defect in the pump...
Did you even take the pump apart to clean it or see if theres something stuck in it?? how about power? your also using one of those wall wort power supplies that often fail... did you check the voltage output with it connected to the pump and is it rated for 1 amp or higher?

The real problem with cheap products is that they dont cost enough... people rush to blame everything on thier origin and cost...
 
Did you even take the pump apart to clean it or see if theres something stuck in it?? how about power? your also using one of those wall wort power supplies that often fail... did you check the voltage output with it connected to the pump and is it rated for 1 amp or higher?

The real problem with cheap products is that they dont cost enough... people rush to blame everything on thier origin and cost...

Yes,
I took the pump apart - nothing inside blocking
I checked the power supply = 1 amp
the impeller blade only vibrates when power is applied to the pump, it does not rotate.

the real problem is, being made in China, the seller has no real interest in customer support, or any real care in his reputation
an eBay seller with over 10,000 transactions does not care for 1 or 2 negative feedback per month.

That is why i asked if there were any US sellers of this pump
Someone who might care about customer service, maybe care about thier reputation..........
 
It looks as if you have some sort of motor speed controller inside the housing. Perhaps the motor speed controller has failed....

What happens when the pump is connected directly to the power supply?
 
It looks as if you have some sort of motor speed controller inside the housing. Perhaps the motor speed controller has failed....

What happens when the pump is connected directly to the power supply?

Yes,

I do have a controller in the box - it is still working
when power is applied directly to the pump
the impeller blade only vibrates when power is applied to the pump, it does not rotate.

S
 
Augiedoggy



The Ball value is on the kettle, not the pump. Here is better pic of pump set up

The pump has quick Disconnects mounted to it.


This appears to be a likely cause. All manufacturers of these types of pumps, including Chugger and March, state that limiting the flow on the inlet side of the pump can lead to pump failure.

If the pump actually ran for more than a few seconds while the valve was restricting flow, I would just chalk it up to experience cost.
 
^^ I agree here. I killed two 24v wall worts due to similar issues before I got a dedicated power supply for my pumps.

Also, got a multimeter? Really easy issue to check on
 
This appears to be a likely cause. All manufacturers of these types of pumps, including Chugger and March, state that limiting the flow on the inlet side of the pump can lead to pump failure.

If the pump actually ran for more than a few seconds while the valve was restricting flow, I would just chalk it up to experience cost.

I am NOT restricting the flow to the pump
The Ball Valve is on the Kettle - that valve keeps the the water in the kettle
while it is closed.

The photo is from my testing phase, and notice the valve is open

S
 
I've used mine for a number of brew days now. During my second brew day my pump stopped working as well. Turns out just running hot pbw through it at the end of a brew day wasn't enough. And the impeller was stuck.

Now at the end of a brew day I put mine into a small bucket of hot pbw and let it pump for like 45 minutes. No problems since.
 
same happened to me. htought it was the power supply turned out to be stuck. I now pull it apart after a brew, clean and let it dry before putting it back together again.
 
Man I havent had any issues with mine getting stuck. I don't vorlauf , definitely get some grain pumped through it. Just spray some water through at end of brew day - generally don't pump PBW through it. Havent had any issues yet.
 
I have had them get stuck a couple times were they either freed themselves right up after a second or two or I had to turn them off and back on and then they worked...
out of the 5 I have I had one that seemed to stick from time to time so I pulled it apart and noticed the tolerances were tighter for some reason...I swapped the guts with another older 12v version that I dropped and cracked and its working fine now as a 24v pump since.

.
 
I am NOT restricting the flow to the pump
The Ball Valve is on the Kettle - that valve keeps the the water in the kettle
while it is closed.

The photo is from my testing phase, and notice the valve is open

S

On your first photo it looks as if its only open half way.. But you should know so I'll take your word for it.
You may have just gotten a poorly made pump afterall. I had one out of the 5 I bought that would get stuck from time to time right from new though and when comparing it to the others I had I noticed one of the tolerances was much tighter than the others I had. since yours worked fine for a while its more likely something was damaged or failed.

Its odd that your pump is not frozen and comes apart ok but just vibrates under power.... I would think there would have to be some sort of mechanical damage or voltage issue to the coil for it to just vibrate I have been using these type of pumps for years in my aquriums and the only time I seen that is when either the boots at the end of the shaft wear out or the plastic covering the magnet coil swells from overheating (usually from running dry). these pumps have a fixed ceramic shaft I believe for a very long life
 
Just curious as to needing the extra valve after the pump if I use the motor speed controls.
I have purchased the valves, pumps, power supply and speed controls. Now rethinking the extra valve.
 
Just curious as to needing the extra valve after the pump if I use the motor speed controls.

I have purchased the valves, pumps, power supply and speed controls. Now rethinking the extra valve.


I wondered something very similar. Why do I need the speed controls if I have the valve after the pump you don't with a chugger
 
I purchased a Second pump off ebay, as a replacement.

from Seller = yingsale123

The pump actually shipped from Texas
The pump worked while i was installing it.
I am going to test it this weekend

Shipping was SUPER FAST

I can not recommend the seller further, as i have not tested it fully
I am not the seller, or related to the seller.

I just thought yous guys would like to know of a US seller of the pump

=$17

Steve
 
I purchased a Second pump off ebay, as a replacement.

from Seller = yingsale123

The pump actually shipped from Texas
The pump worked while i was installing it.
I am going to test it this weekend

Shipping was SUPER FAST

I can not recommend the seller further, as i have not tested it fully
I am not the seller, or related to the seller.

I just thought yous guys would like to know of a US seller of the pump

=$17

Steve

2 years and mine is still going strong, but I was thinking about a second one myself. Thanks :mug:
 
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