Cheap compact wort pump

[Brewitt]

I just got the valve and all the connectors for my pump setup from Brewer's Hardware. This allows me to adjust the height of the pots on my Blichmann Top Tier to make the geometry much more manageable. Now I won't need a step stool to reach the HLT. That required some replumbing of the gas lines, which is also done.

My pump is supposed to come next week so I will just have to make the two connections. Here's the configuration with the lowered MLT and HLT and my 3-way valve setup ready for the pump in place of the piece of pipe to the right. Bottom will feed CFC, left will be tube for MLT recirculating and for transfer to BK. Only connection I will have to change during brew is to swap the triclover connector leading to the pump from MLT to BK outlet. I am still contemplating the mounting of the CFC and pump to the Top Tier system but I do know the valve will be above the pump. Comments welcome.

I do have a question. My three way valve is actually four way (I can also have all three directions open). That means I can't use it to regulate flow rate. My pots have spigots but I understand that I can't restrict flow upstream, only downstream. Is that correct and, if so, is my only option to put another spigot downstream? Can I use a rheostat on the pump as an alternative?
Here's the configuration with the lowered MLT and HLT and my 3-way valve setup ready for the pump in place of the piece of pipe to the right. Bottom will feed CFC, left will be tube for MLT recirculating and for transfer to BK. Only connection I will have to change during brew is to swap the tri lover connector from MLT to BK outlet. I am still contemplating the mounting of the CFC and pump to the Top Tier system but I do know the valve will be above the pump. Comments welcome.

 

[Stealthcruiser]

What kind of pump?
Not sure if the "Chugger's" or the "March" pumps would take kindly to being speed regulated.

There's a thread in here somewhere about "pump questions answered by the experts.....", or something like that.

 

[Brewitt]

What kind of pump?
Not sure if the "Chugger's" or the "March" pumps would take kindly to being speed regulated.

There's a thread in here somewhere about "pump questions answered by the experts.....", or something like that.

Topsflo solar pump.


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[Mojzis]

Topsflo solar pump.


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FWIW I have been controlling my little tan one with the eBay led pwm for almost a year I believe and it has worked flawlessly. Since switching to my topsflo knock-off I have been having issues using the same pwm. However I think the led pwm isn't rated for the amperage the topsflo draws. It sometimes takes a minute to turn on, and doesn't like to let you dial down the flow too much. Also after running at a decreased rate it will shut off on me.

So there needs to be more experimentation with it. I have a new larger pwm but have yet to switch the two. My soldering skills suck!

 

[Brewitt]

Well, I got my Topsflo Solar Pump. I don't have an appropriate power adapter, so I wired it to a cigarette lighter plug and used a 30 Ah 12V AGM Battery pack which has two cigarette outlets that I made for another project. The first lighter plug I tried wouldn't run it but it was only passing 7.8V. When I swapped that for one rated for much higher voltage the pump started right up and pumps a robust stream through a 1/2 inch tube up 3' to recirculate mash or transfer it into the boiling kettle. I also turned the three way valve to redirect the flow to my chiller and it also pushes a nice stream through that. I think I am going to be very happy with this as soon as I finalize the wiring, figure out how to mount it to my Top Tier rack and regulate the flow rate. Have to decide whether to regulate the battery output or put another valve between the three way and the pump. I'm not thrilled with the idea of so many valves.

 

[Riot]

I ordered one of the black topsflo knockoffs last night after reading pretty much this entire thread. Got a new kettle and decided I was done having to lift full boils, hoping I can get a decent flow rate recirculating through a shorter CFC. Am I right in thinking the length of the chiller shouldn't mean nearly as much with recirculation compared to a single pass chill?

 

[mattd2]

I have the imitation topsflo also. Love it. Much stronger than the tan wonder (but not submersible). I have a female camlock on the input and move it that way. Easy.

I use it for HLT transfers, RIMS re-circulation through 6+ feet of tubing and from boil kettle>chiller>fermenter. I haven't had it get stuck yet after several batches, but it is sensitive to air in the line like the previous poster stated.. And no it doesn't melt at boiling temps. A few pages back I listed what the material was and it's temp limitations.

View attachment 211786

Slightly but could you plesr post some details of your rims tube. Looks compact but what's the watts? Or PM me if you don't mind. Cheers!

 

[sablesurfer]

I ordered one of the black topsflo knockoffs last night after reading pretty much this entire thread. Got a new kettle and decided I was done having to lift full boils, hoping I can get a decent flow rate recirculating through a shorter CFC. Am I right in thinking the length of the chiller shouldn't mean nearly as much with recirculation compared to a single pass chill?

Really not sure what you are asking here. Need more info on what you are thinking for the chiller. I have the black pump for recirculation during mash and chilling. But my chiller coil is run using ice water from sink with a small pond pump.

 

[Riot]

I just finished building a chiller, 15 ft total copper. I want to use the pump to recirculate wort down the chiller and back into the kettle so I can chill without ice, just run the pump wide open and adjust the cooling water flow. Cooling water running up will just be my garden hose. Hoping that makes more sense.

Quick edit: My thought with chiller length is it shouldn't mean nearly as much as long as the wort is going back to the kettle until I'm happy with temp, rather then immediately to the fermenter relying on a single pass through the coil to bring the temp down all the way.

 

[Brewitt]

I got my LED PWM and my power adaptor. Hooked up to the Topsflo pump and tested it all our for recirculation. It works great but the adjustment to the flow is very sensitive. The less vertical head pressure the easier it is to adjust. All and all I think it is going to be great.

I'll post a video of the recirculating at two different flow rates for those who are interested. Don't seem to be able to do it from the phone.


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[user 144271]

These pumps, or ones that look very similar, are available from http://solarproject.co.uk/ and are in fairly general use by UK homebrewers where they are known as "solar pumps". I have the SP20/20 version myself which may be slightly more powerful than the ebay model (it is rated at 14 W). I have yet to put it into use. The output threads are male 1/2" BSP but 1/2" NPT fittings work perfectly well.

Here's another video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suv3vqGnoFg

Does anyone know what size this hose is and where to get those fittings?

If I knew what they were called I would search Ebay

DOH

 

[Riot]

I imagine that is 3/8" hose, and the post you quoted says the fittings are 1/2" bsp. Not a standard in North America but you can find them online, or use regular pipe thread and multiple layers of Teflon tape.

 

[user 144271]

There must be a ferrel or something on that hose to seal it.

 

[Brewitt]

I mounted my pump valve assembly in a box an attached it to my Top Tier rank. Works well.


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[mattd2]

I mounted my pump valve assembly in a box an attached it to my Top Tier rank. Works well. View attachment 213771View attachment 213772


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Interesting idea - are you running it with the box cover on? I like the idea of this to eliminate the stress on the pump nozzles from turning the ballvalve (if the ball valve body is fixed to the box lid and the pump "hangs" off the valve

 

[DonH]

I had one of the $60 solar pumps at first... came into some money and went with a chugger SS center inlet... let me say this drastic difference in the pumps capabilities.

 

[MX1]

Of course there is a huge difference, they are two different pumps.

Only reason I have a second chugger is because I happened across a deal that let me get it for about $10 more than the topsflo.

Different capabilities is not an issue as long as you are informed of them before hand.

Due diligence is the responsibility of the buyer.

In the end as long as you are satisfied with the one you choose.

T


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[Mojzis]

I had one of the $60 solar pumps at first... came into some money and went with a chugger SS center inlet... let me say this drastic difference in the pumps capabilities.

Huge difference in noise too from what I understand.

 

[Brewitt]

Interesting idea - are you running it with the box cover on? I like the idea of this to eliminate the stress on the pump nozzles from turning the ballvalve (if the ball valve body is fixed to the box lid and the pump "hangs" off the valve

I could swear I already replied to this but it has never appeared in the thread. Bottom line is that two of the valve outlets are captured in notches in the box, along with the inlet to the pump. I have captured the metal fittings rather than the plastic part of the pump that is floating in the box. All of the points of capture are attached to the box via zip ties so they are snug. The box is attached to the top tier rack system. The consequence is that when I turn the handle on the valve, the box absorbs the torque rather than the pump.

I did plan on having a lid on the box. I was just repurposing two wooden boxes I had to make the top and bottom. The problem is that the top of the box is 3//16 ply which is too thick to allow the handle to be captured by the square shaft on the valve. I plan to replace that with sheet metal and then try to mount it to the top of the box which will be hinged to the bottom. The whole assembly will be closed.

Today I flushed all of the components of the system with oxyclean and then stars an. I did it by recirculating into the mash tun then transferring to the boiling kettle and recirculating that, then flushing everything out through the counterflow chiller. It also allowed me to test all of the operations I would do during a brew. Worked beautifully.

 

[Brewitt]

I had one of the $60 solar pumps at first... came into some money and went with a chugger SS center inlet... let me say this drastic difference in the pumps capabilities.

That certainly seems likely. However, at a third the price this one seems to be more than capable of doing the job I need done and everything else in the system is fully adaptable to a chugger or a march pump should the need arise. Once I get through a few brewing sessions I'll know more about my decision.

 

[KimJohansen]

Does anyone know if this model has an encapsulated magnet?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC50C-1240S...318?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item338143962e

 

[mendozer]

used it for the first brew day. I had some issues with it though.

it primed fine, but once it got full power the "above" line was no longer full of wort, like it was pumping harder than the liquid would flow in.

I also used a different method in my mash tun. Instead of my usual manifold i used a grain bag. My effort to do a double crush and not worry about a stuck sparge.

 

[KimJohansen]

used it for the first brew day. I had some issues with it though.

it primed fine, but once it got full power the "above" line was no longer full of wort, like it was pumping harder than the liquid would flow in.

I also used a different method in my mash tun. Instead of my usual manifold i used a grain bag. My effort to do a double crush and not worry about a stuck sparge.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Have you take it apart to have a look at the magnet?

 

[mendozer]

I have not. I installed it into a fishing tackle box and mounted the PWM on the lid. I'm kinda lazy about it.

What would be wrong with the magnet?

 

[KimJohansen]

I have not. I installed it into a fishing tackle box and mounted the PWM on the lid. I'm kinda lazy about it.

What would be wrong with the magnet?

I'm just trying to find out wether it's food safe or not?

 

[govner1]

I just finished building a chiller, 15 ft total copper. I want to use the pump to recirculate wort down the chiller and back into the kettle so I can chill without ice, just run the pump wide open and adjust the cooling water flow. Cooling water running up will just be my garden hose. Hoping that makes more sense.

Quick edit: My thought with chiller length is it shouldn't mean nearly as much as long as the wort is going back to the kettle until I'm happy with temp, rather then immediately to the fermenter relying on a single pass through the coil to bring the temp down all the way.

I think you'll find your CFC (especially @ just 15') will be much more efficient/effective if you incorporate some sort of ice water bath. Otherwise, the best you'll do is reach ground water temp. eventually.


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[Riot]

I'm OK with only hitting ground water temp. I live in Canada and have never seen water temp above about 65. During the first test of the chiller without a pump my output temp was about 85. I feel pretty good about that as a start.

 

[KPSquared]

Canadian ground water has its advantages... its cold enough to numb my hands in the middle of summer. 90* outside and the water is still so so cold. Love it!

 

[mendozer]

I'm just trying to find out wether it's food safe or not?

Oh i have the black Topsflo (Great Breweh) so I know it's foodsafe.

 

[Riot]

So my topsflo knockoff just arrived, and I just want to be sure about a power supply. I have a 12V 1.5A, a 12V 3A and a 13V 1.3A. I am pretty sure any of them will be acceptable, will I see any difference between them before I start cutting wires?