Changing Draft Beer Lines?

[sibelman]

Do you use beerstone remover or line cleaner to clean your lines? My evabarrier lines are about a year old, and I usually just soak them in PBW, rinse, then Star San. I held them up to a light last night and immediately replaced them. I was shocked at how much beerstone was in them. Yuck...

I usually use BLC (with hot water before and after). I have not noticed any accumulation, though maybe I haven't looked very hard

 

[wepeeler]

I've occasionally used caustic as well as your regime. Not had a beerstone problem yet.

Thanks!

I usually use BLC (with hot water before and after). I have not noticed any accumulation, though maybe I haven't looked very hard

I'm glad I did look, although I wasn't super happy. Shows I need to pay more attention to my cold side stuff

 

[sibelman]

I've got replacement EVAbarrier tubing ready, and will look harder when I get back home.

 

[beren]

EVAbarrier is nice. It doesn't absorb much at all.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Rather than go to the trouble and expense of new beer lines, I purchased two new 3 tap draft towers, complete with lines and fittings. They are very nice, and were $68 / ea.

Here is the problem...the vinyl beer lines are off-gassing a plastic taste to the beer. And these are brand new! It is only noticeable on the first pour. After that, all is well.

These are made in China, of course.

As stated, my new Tap-Rite draft tower has no issues at all. Beer can sit in the line overnight, and it still tastes fresh. USA made.

I know people who refuse to drink coffee from a plastic cup for the same reason...they can taste the plastic.

Are there any beer lines that are 100% odor free? That is the culprit.

These two triple tap towers are being returned.

edit: Some of my beer lines have turned a brownish color. They look like blotchy nicotine stains from cigarettes.

 

[beren]

Yeah. Evabarrier. And there’s another dual layer but evabarrier is easier/cheaper/smaller id so you need less to avoid foam.

 

[day_trippr]

Years ago barrier lined Bev Seal Ultra 235 was the line of choice, but pricey AF compared to the industry standard Bevlex 200 solid PVC tubing. EVABarrier is superior in many ways and is reasonably priced imo, especially for what it provides...

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

Given the number of prominent members who have touted the very real ease and benefits of EVABarrier and duotights on here, it seems you'd rather not for some reason and ended up replacing your problem with the same problem. Pretty much any tower/tap 'assembly' you buy is going to include the lowest grade materials available. The only way to deal with the lines themselves is to replace them. If not for the space issues I have and not wanting to have large coils of lines hanging in my kegerator, I'd gladly have stuck to Bevlex 200 with hose-clamps on barbs. You can just buy the hose and replace it the same way as it is now. BrewHardware.com - High end, practical homebrewing hardware, accessories and ingredients for making beer, wine, mead, and cider.

 

[beren]

You don’t have to use Duotight, you can get eva barrier on quarter inch barbs with some hot but not boiling water.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

I just ran a Q-Tip into the opening on one beer line. It came out dark brown, again looking like nicotine stains.

Replacing the lines on a triple tap tower is a bloody nightmare. My hands are all cut up just from changing out a few fittings.

That is why I bought new towers, thinking that new, clean lines would fix the problem.

Some of my older USA made towers have the same issue...the vinyl odor from the beer line influences the beer flavor.

 

[beren]

I just ran a Q-Tip into the opening on one beer line. It came out dark brown, again looking like nicotine stains.

Replacing the lines on a triple tap tower is a bloody nightmare. My hands are all cut up just from changing out a few fittings.

That is why I bought new towers, thinking that new, clean lines would fix the problem.

Some of my older USA made towers have the same issue...the vinyl odor from the beer line influences the beer flavor.

One nice thing with Duotight shanks is that they fit through the hole so as long as you get the knot off the shank you can pull the shank and line out to replace

 

[odie]

I'll do a hot water rinse every couple kegs. I fill a mini keg with a couple quarts of hot water and flush the line and faucet.

sometimes break down the faucet and QD.

 

[beren]

My keezer has 8 taps, so it looks like a substantial investment for all the little parts if I do it all at once. Where's the best place to get stuff?

I got 100’ of evabarrier pretty cheap from Williams and it’ll fit on 1/4 inch barbs with some love and hot water. But push for connectors are niiice.

 

[Broken Crow]

Help us help you....Post some pictures and tell us where you're having difficulties in changing things out...whatever lines you choose to use. If it helps, I recently switched out all my beer lines and tried to detail it with pictures. Though I chose 3mm EVABarrier, the instructions are equally applicable to Bevlex and clamps. 1/4" Swivel-nut > 3mm EVABarrier > 6.35mm Monotight connector > Duotight Shank

 

[mac_1103]

Pretty much any tower/tap 'assembly' you buy is going to include the lowest grade materials available.

Not necessarily, but not $68 either. Also available in matte black.

 

[IslandLizard]

Are there any beer lines that are 100% odor free? That is the culprit.

I've heard/read that EVA Barrier is completely odor free.

I haven't made the switch to EVA Barrier yet, still using Bev-Seal Ultra 235 line, which is also completely odor/flavor free. It has an ultra smooth PET liner inside. It's easy to clean, although there's a light, permanent discoloration after many years of use.

 

[Broken Crow]

Not necessarily, but not $68 either. Also available in matte black.

Yeah, true... I've gotta start counting how many times I say this on here: "Buy Once, Cry Once."
(though I have a bad feeling that once @Oleson M.D. switches his lines out to an odor/taste free one such as either EVABarrier or Bevlex, within a few months we'll get a question about the bad taste of plated-chrome, or the smell of sulfides, or the vinegar from beer sitting in the rear-sealing taps, as premade Taprite assemblies usually come with plated chrome taps and shanks rather than Stainless Steel.)

 

[mac_1103]

premade Taprite assemblies usually come with plated chrome taps and shanks rather than Stainless Steel

I thought the insides were stainless even on the chrome plated ones?

 

[Broken Crow]

I thought the insides were stainless even on the chrome plated ones?

Nope... Cheapness is the whole point.

 

[sibelman]

I realize that you just bought two new 3-tap towers, @Oleson M.D. However, you've indicated these are problematical because they're hard to work on. You probably can't return them now, but in the future you might want to consider T-towers that offer superior access for maintenance. Examples can be found here.

I believe that eliminating plastic flavors is a top priority. Even when you can't taste it, that stuff is still in there at lower levels. Maybe harmless, maybe not. Go EVAbarrier!

 

[Langerz]

It's been a while since I bought my EvaBarrier lines but isn't it like $0.50 a foot? With the small diameter you need shorter runs. I think mine are around 5 feet so~$2.50 a line. I've considered just giving up on the pain of cleaning lines and just replacing them all yearly instead at that price. I would still need to do something to clean the QDs and shanks though and easier to just clean it all together.

 

[beren]

It's been a while since I bought my EvaBarrier lines but isn't it like $0.50 a foot? With the small diameter you need shorter runs. I think mine are around 5 feet so~$2.50 a line. I've considered just giving up on the pain of cleaning lines and just replacing them all yearly instead at that price. I would still need to do something to clean the QDs and shanks though and easier to just clean it all together.

I bought it when they had a sale I think it was $40 for 100ft. I have had them 2 years or so and no stains or off flavors so far and just do a quick starsan rinse every 6-12 months

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Yeah, true... I've gotta start counting how many times I say this on here: "Buy Once, Cry Once."
(though I have a bad feeling that once @Oleson M.D. switches his lines out to an odor/taste free one such as either EVABarrier or Bevlex, within a few months we'll get a question about the bad taste of plated-chrome, or the smell of sulfides, or the vinegar from beer sitting in the rear-sealing taps, as premade Taprite assemblies usually come with plated chrome taps and shanks rather than Stainless Steel.)

All of our faucets are Perlick SS.
My rear seal faucets are also all SS, but they are all stored in a box since we switched to Perlick many years ago.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Do you use beerstone remover or line cleaner to clean your lines? My evabarrier lines are about a year old, and I usually just soak them in PBW, rinse, then Star San. I held them up to a light last night and immediately replaced them. I was shocked at how much beerstone was in them. Yuck...

I use BLC on the lines about every other keg. Normal procedure is to recirculate the BLC solution (hot water) for 30 to 45 minutes. Then do a rinse with 100% hot water for another 20 minutes.

Sometimes I will just do a hot water rinse for 30 minutes on the lines.

I use a pump for circulating the cleaning solution.

 

[Clint Yeastwood]

There has to be a way to adapt your towers to EVAbarrier and Duotight. Kegland sells short Duotight shanks.

They supposedly reduce O2 transfer, so that's a bonus.

 

[Broken Crow]

All of our faucets are Perlick SS.
My rear seal faucets are also all SS, but they are all stored in a box since we switched to Perlick many years ago.

Though I have both Perlick and Nukatap, I find the Nuka's though perfectly functional, completely ugly...Perlicks just look so much nicer!
What part of changing lines is giving you issues?
A lot of folk get stuck at the shank wrench and try and use what they have on hand... that can get aggrivating... Most of the time I hate saying "spend more on this.." , but if you don't have a proper shank-wrench, it'd be money well-spent. Here's a couple:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/kegtool.htmhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/komos-pro-draft-wrench-1.htmlYour tower looks like the standard ones, here's a couple pics that might help:

and use string or wire to hold up the inner nut, spacer and optional washer;

feed the lines out the front when you pull the shank out;

You can replace the line outside the tower and shove it back in.
If you use Bevlex 200, you probably just need the hose clamps to replace what's already there.
If you go duotight/EVABarrier (Highly recommended), you'll want new shanks;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htmI hope I covered your issue..Please get back and let us know.

 

[Oleson M.D.]

Though I have both Perlick and Nukatap, I find the Nuka's though perfectly functional, completely ugly...Perlicks just look so much nicer!
What part of changing lines is giving you issues?
A lot of folk get stuck at the shank wrench and try and use what they have on hand... that can get aggrivating... Most of the time I hate saying "spend more on this.." , but if you don't have a proper shank-wrench, it'd be money well-spent. Here's a couple:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/kegtool.htmhttps://www.morebeer.com/products/komos-pro-draft-wrench-1.htmlYour tower looks like the standard ones, here's a couple pics that might help:
View attachment 840033
and use string or wire to hold up the inner nut, spacer and optional washer;
View attachment 840034
feed the lines out the front when you pull the shank out;
View attachment 840035
You can replace the line outside the tower and shove it back in.
If you use Bevlex 200, you probably just need the hose clamps to replace what's already there.
If you go duotight/EVABarrier (Highly recommended), you'll want new shanks;
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/shanksstowerpush.htmI hope I covered your issue..Please get back and let us know.

Thanks for the pictures! That looks like a good solution!

Here are my new towers, which very well may be returned…the jury is still out.

 

[Broken Crow]

Gorgeous enviable bar!
Personal opinion: It deserves EVABarrier for maximum O2 and chemical exclusion...but Bevlex 200 or the Bev-Seal Ultra 235 mentioned by @IslandLizard is good second call.
Give it some thought, to which I'll add: Duotight fittings are a joy to work with..I have personal reasons for being in the maybe 5% that had an issue with one part of it... about 95% duotight users have no issues at all, especially if they remembered to use the optional retaining clips; Food Grade Plastic, 5/16 (sorry for the Canadian link.. it's what I had on hand, but you can find them everywhere.)

 

[day_trippr]

Bevlex 200 is solid pvc. No longer recommended, afaic...

Cheers!

 

[beren]

There has to be a way to adapt your towers to EVAbarrier and Duotight. Kegland sells short Duotight shanks.

You absolutely can. You can buy shanks for the tower that are smooth so you can use a Duotight connector, or you can use hot but not boiling water to heat up a normal Barb and get the evabarrier line over it.

If you want to be extra fancy, and also have The smallest possible profile, you can get a tool to make hose clamps out of stainless steel safety wire. It’s almost no bigger than the hose itself.

https://clamptitetools.com/