Chalkboard paint

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Cwetherford

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I am building my kegerator and I wanna know what's the word on the chalkboard paint? Does it work well on fridges? And is spray or roll on better? And about how much is it
 
I'm not sure about the price, but you can get it at Home Depot. You'll want to do a few coats, spray would give a smoother surface, you won't get roller texture. If you go with the magnetic kind you'll want to do even more coats, 5-6. My brother did a half wall for his daughter and just did 3 coats with a roller and said he should have done more.
 
I did the roll-on for my kegerator just last week. I wouldn't trust the spray paint to do an even coat. Just get the rollers that are basically foam, and it won't leave a texture. The thing you'll want to worry about is the surface of the fridge. If it's patterned, that pattern will show through the paint. Also, if you use painters tape, be sure to remove it about 30 minutes after each coat. I left mine on the whole time. It took about 4-5 days (one coat per day, except the last day, when I did two). When I tried to remove the painters tape, it was pretty well caked on there due to the thickness of the paint/primer. The paint sets up pretty hard, so I would recommend removing/adding tape between coats.

You'll want to put down a few layers of primer. Be sure to scuff the surface of your fridge or it won't stick. This is important, and is the biggest pain in the ass during the whole process. I used a stuff metal brush, and it took a couple hours.

I was able to get 5 coats of chalkboard paint out of a single Rustoleum 30oz can. Covers the entire fridge, minus the handles and the grill at the bottom near the floor.

Overall, I'm very happy with the results. If you're interested in doing it, I say go for it, but I have no input on spray vs roller, other than I just don't think spray will work as nicely. Just my subjective, not based on any kind of facts, opinion.
 
Here's a pic. Let me know if you have any specific questions.

IMAG0808.jpg
 
I manage a paint store and we sell both roll and spray versions of krylons chalkboard paint. I am planning on doing the lid of my keezer with it. The biggest issue is adhesion. Making sure that you do something to dull down the high sheen enamel factory finish is key. For me I sanded the top really well and I plan on using our high adhesion primmer then using the roll on chalk board paint. Making the sure the substrate is clean, dry, and dull are the keys to any paint job. Any specific questions post them here and I'll be more than happy to answer.
 
I did it on my first kegorator fridge, but decided against it on my second. Definitely consider where the chalk dust will be going. Once I saw how much it produced, I decided it wasn't for me. My "board" was above my taps and the dust fell right onto them.
 
Definitely consider where the chalk dust will be going. Once I saw how much it produced, I decided it wasn't for me. My "board" was above my taps and the dust fell right onto them.
^This. I decided pretty quickly that I wouldn't be writing much directly above my taps.

brandonhagen1 said:
how ruff does it need to be to adhere right
I'm no expert, but I believe you just want to take off the shine. If it's dull-looking, you're good. I would recommend borrowing some kind of electric sander from a friend if you don't have one. Definitely don't go "wire metal brush" like I did. Huge pain.
 
brandonhagen1 said:
how ruff does it need to be to adhere right

You don't need to remove the current paint but you do need to take the shine off of it. You just want to scuff it up.
 
I just went ahead and painted the top of my chest freezer. The can cost $15 from Lowes. I do have 'brush' strokes, but it can only be noticed if you get close. I put 4 coats on. I did not do anything to the surface of the freezer and cannot see the texture of the surface through the chalkboard paint. It is real thick. Really depends on how much work you want to put into it. Mine looks great with minimal work.

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So I have a rust oleum paint and the fridge foam roller, I am going to be sanding it down really good very soon do you guys think I really need the primer because the paint says u only need it if you are putting it on bare metal. Also has anyone used the colored chalk board my home depot makes a paint that can be tinted to 12 colors anything from pink to blue to coffee
 
I have an entire wall in my music room painted with this chalkboard stuff, it's solid.

Sorry, just realized that might have been misleading. The paint is awesome, my only regret is that i wish i would have sanded down my textured wall to the chalk doesn't break as easy on the peaks and valleys.
 
Cwetherford said:
So I have a rust oleum paint and the fridge foam roller, I am going to be sanding it down really good very soon do you guys think I really need the primer because the paint says u only need it if you are putting it on bare metal. Also has anyone used the colored chalk board my home depot makes a paint that can be tinted to 12 colors anything from pink to blue to coffee

Here's why I am going to prime I spend all day at work listening to how people screw up their projects and I get to explain why (paint store manager). While that product may say priming is not necessary, it is designed to go over architectural wall paints. Those products are a significantly lower sheen than the high gloss enamels put on appliances. Paint does not like to stick to shiny or slick surfaces. By using a primmer specifically designed for high adhesion you take away the guess work in how dull do you sand it. You still should sand the thing but you are further insuring success on a kegorator project you've already invested a lot of time in. Just my two cents/professional opinion you would get if you came in my store.
 
CPORT546 said:
Here's why I am going to prime I spend all day at work listening to how people screw up their projects and I get to explain why (paint store manager). While that product may say priming is not necessary, it is designed to go over architectural wall paints. Those products are a significantly lower sheen than the high gloss enamels put on appliances. Paint does not like to stick to shiny or slick surfaces. By using a primmer specifically designed for high adhesion you take away the guess work in how dull do you sand it. You still should sand the thing but you are further insuring success on a kegorator project you've already invested a lot of time in. Just my two cents/professional opinion you would get if you came in my store.

Ok so now that I am priming what do you suggest just a basic latex primer? And also the textured metal on some fridges will it be able to go over that or will I have to have a textured chalkboard
 
Cwetherford said:
Ok so now that I am priming what do you suggest just a basic latex primer? And also the textured metal on some fridges will it be able to go over that or will I have to have a textured chalkboard

I work for Sherwin-Williams so I am using our product called simply "adhesion primer". There are some other products you could use. Zinsser makes a product called bullseye 1-2-3. And XIM makes a product called UMA primer. They are more expensive than regular primer you have to pay for that extra adhesion. Since my lid is slightly textured using this keeps me from having to sand all the paint out of the valleys.
 
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