Canning Jar Trub/Yeast Harvester for Conical

[TommyTbar]

You guys should check these out. A little on the pricey side but are essentially a better option then a mason jar IMHO they range in sizes from .13 gallon to 5 gallon (bit over kill haha) and come with 1.5 inch clamp gasket and lid.

http://www.gwkent.com/stainless-steel-bottles.html

these guys also sell all other tri clamp stuff to dump a bunch of money into

 

[TommyTbar]

I wanted to get the 1/2 gallon just for a growler lol, never thought to use one like the fast ferment idea

 

[Southern_Junior]

These aren't clear though. Doesn't that defeat the purpose?

 

[Artifishal]

I have the plastic 15 gal. Conical and use this with the "leave it open" till its full of trub and yeast method, then close the valve and remove, and don't put it back on. I just drain the little bit that collects during the second week into a pitcher before I attach a tube and drain into kegs. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421704995.197723.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421705013.959873.jpg

 

[Artifishal]

I'm now trying to figure out if there's any way to switch this over to mason jars. I like that idea way better. Thoughts?

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Artifishal,

I don't see any reason why you'd want to change the set up that you have. You have the same functionality as a mason jar without doing any additional work. If I were in your shoes, I'd rig up another Nalgene like you already have. Do you see a big advantage to a mason jar over your Nalgene?

 

[Southern_Junior]

nalgene's cant shatter. thats a big plus right there.

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

SJ,

Exactly. They are (nearly) transparent too. Can you get clear, non-colored Nalgene bottles? Seems like you can use the Nalgene just like a canning jar. They just cost a bit more than canning jars. But, you can always transfer yeast from your Nalgene to a canning jar after you harvest. That's the only advantage that I see with a canning jar - no need to transfer harvested yeast to a new container.

 

[sandyeggoxj]

You can get the HDPE ones which are a opaque white. They also have one that has a different set of letters but is the same plastic but it has UV inhibitors in it. I think it is stamped UVPE instead. I use these for storing yeast in the fridge. I grow extra in my starter and propagate from there instead of harvesting.

 

[Artifishal]

It worked, and yes that's why I went through the trouble of milling out the inside of that pvc so I could fit and glue in the nalgene. But it was not quite big enough for a ten gallen batch. I have to dump a bit more yeast out after I detach it. And I can't really store it like that because it has a big pvc thing glued to it. I looked up the ball canning plastic lids last night. I plan to redo my set up with one of those on the end so I can use a 32oz ball jar for five gallon batches and a half gallon ball jar for when I do ten gallon batches.

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Artifishal,

Now I understand. I assumed that the white plastic part that the Nalgene attaches to is removable. I that case, yes, the canning jars will make storage of harvested yeast easier and allows for more flexibility in terms of a wide variety of jar sizes.

 

[Artifishal]

Crud! Plastic lids are not water tight. They'd need an O-ring or gasket. Here's what I'm going to test out. If it works I'll duplicate it with some of those eco jar ss lids. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421883887.668727.jpg

It's upside down in the picture just till the silicone dries.

The plan is to attach that small piece of pvc to 1 1/2" pvc pipe that will attach to the valve on the bottom of my conical. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1421884065.709677.jpg

Thoughts?

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Artifishal,

As long as you end up with something that doesn't leak, I'd say you're good. If you decide to repeat with a stainless steel Eco Jarz lid, just be careful about the thickness of the gaskets - you'll probably want or need to cut those in half. Based purely on the little bit I read on their website, I'd say that the rings they sell are likely just the normal store bought standard rings. I need to check out different ring solutions that would easily incorporate the thickness of the gasket.

P.S. I don't think your cat is impressed. They rarely are.

 

[Artifishal]

Lol about my wife's stupid cats. It (regarding the pic above), didn't work. I didn't like how I had to cut the grate out of it rendering it scratched up (it was a 2" pvc floor drain so it had a grate in it I had to cut out). Plan C tomorrow. It's going to be a thin ring of 2" schedule 80 solvent welded to the outside of the 1 1/2" schedule 40 pvc, so it acts as a lip on the underside of the ball jar lid.

Btw for anyone interested, I ordered some of the Ss ecojars lids and there was no charge for shipping.

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Artifishal,

Good luck with Plan C!

All,

Just to be clear, the SS lids come with gaskets - no need to order gaskets separately. However, I do like having a few extras on hand.

 

[Artifishal]

And you get two for $1.50 free shipping.

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Well, looks like I'll be brewing this weekend so I did a bit of work to prep my conical. I added wheels. This gave me plenty of room for the mason jar. I'm currently doing a final leak test with water. Action photos attached.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423550266.539058.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423550336.687222.jpg

 

[Artifishal]

Show off! Just kidding. That is bad ass! Still figuring mine out. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423792131.362270.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423792148.284264.jpg

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Artifishal,

Looks like you are getting your system figured out. You have a solution you're happy with yet?

If all goes well, I'll have my first real test happening on Monday. I'm brewing a Zombie Dust clone. Since I do BIAB, I'll likely opt for a quart jar at first to catch the trub from the fine grind I use. It's probably over kill, but since I've never actually measured how much trub I get in a batch, I figured it is better to have a jar that is too big than not big enough. I'll replace the quart jar with a pint jar when I pitch the yeast.

I also gathered up some gear to make pressure transfers from conical to keg easy. I'll get some pics of that stuff at some point.

 

[Artifishal]

Pliny, are you doing five ish gallon batches? I ask because of the size jars you mentioned. Both times I did ten gal. Batches the yeast cake was over 1500 ml. Just estimating but I think that was about a quart and a half. I am happy with my set up, finally. I purchased a half gallon Ball mason jar for those big batches (it will be a little too big, but like you said, better too big than not enough), and I think I now have every size wide mouth jar they make. The plan is to use small for trub, remove, reinstall a larger, open valve, pitch yeast, sit back and watch the magic.

I'm still questioning whether I should reattach another smaller one (purged with co2), after I remove the the big jar of yeast cake or just leave the valve closed. Thoughts?

 

[Artifishal]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1423915735.772081.jpg

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Artifishal,

Yes - I'm doing 5 gallon batches. The Zombie Dust recipe is actually 6 gallons. Maybe I should use the larger jar for both the trub and the yeast this first time through just so I have an idea about the volumes that are really needed.

Looks like you have your jar all figured out too. How is it held in place on the valve?

 

[Artifishal]

Artifishal,

Yes - I'm doing 5 gallon batches. The Zombie Dust recipe is actually 6 gallons. Maybe I should use the larger jar for both the trub and the yeast this first time through just so I have an idea about the volumes that are really needed.

Looks like you have your jar all figured out too. How is it held in place on the valve?

Good question. I was wondering if you'd notice that. I'm still waiting for that piece in the mail. It's a 1 1/2" male threaded pvc nipple with a pvc lock but and washer on the under side of the lid.

I don't have a good picture of it. Should be only e few days. I'll post when it comes in if anyone is interested.

I've tested it several different ways. I just found a better way with threaded pieces instead of pvc solvent welded pieces. I'm skeptical about that glue being in contact with my brew.

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Well, the conical is filled and the trub catcher is catching trub. I did as suggested - poured the wort in the conical and did not pitch the yeast; instead I let it sit for a day. Here is what I got:
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424402710.328024.jpg

Not a lot of trub. I emptied the jar (I poured the clear wort back into the conical), sanitized it, and reattached the empty jar. The air went up through the wort and more trub went into the jar. I oxygenated the wort and pitched the yeast.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424403118.334204.jpg

And here it is after is settled for a day.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424403182.104462.jpg

Overall, I'm pretty happy with how this is working. I'm currently using a butterfly valve on the outlet. I may try a ball valve on the next batch to see if the trub flows easier.

 

[Artifishal]

Butterfly allows more through, no? Anyways that is sweet Pliny! I'm so glad you took those pics and posted I'm motivated to try mine now. I'm rigging one up for small batch testing now. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424483725.469953.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424483769.501108.jpg

Btw, why didn't you just use a pint jar for the trub? Oh and was that a five gallon batch? I'm about to do a five and want to know what size jar to use.

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Butterfly allows more through, no?

Well, with a ball valve, there is nothing in the path of the flow when the valve is opened. With a butterfly valve, the "flapper" is always in the way - when the butterfly valve is open, the flapper is parallel to the flow but it is still in the flow.

Btw, why didn't you just use a pint jar for the trub? Oh and was that a five gallon batch? I'm about to do a five and want to know what size jar to use.

I used a quart jar on my 6 gallon batch. Since this was my first use, I went big on the jar. Honestly, I'm not sure there's a real downside to having a jar that is slightly too big. The wort in the jar still turns in to beer. So, I'm not losing anything.

Now that my yeast is settling out, I'm glad to have the larger jar.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1424485441.454180.jpg

 

[maierhof]

Crud! Plastic lids are not water tight. They'd need an O-ring or gasket. Here's what I'm going to test out. If it works I'll duplicate it with some of those eco jar ss lids. View attachment 250460

It's upside down in the picture just till the silicone dries.

The plan is to attach that small piece of pvc to 1 1/2" pvc pipe that will attach to the valve on the bottom of my conical. View attachment 250461

Thoughts?

Hopefully that silicone is not going to touch the yeast or wort?
That is not food safe silicone - you need to use aquarium silicone - you can buy it at Petco or some aquarium store. Just trying to help you and those that drink with you...

PlineyTheMiddleAged - I LOVE this idea - thank you for finding the SS tops for these things! Every time I want to harvest my yeast I have to pull the 15.5 sanke inside into the kitchen and then pour it into my harvesting containers and so on... makes quite the mess and "stinks up the house" according to my wife. I am going to solder in two corny disconnect ports on to my tops and will show you when I am done - one will be for flow in - one will be for air/co2 being released. When I am done - I will not have to go into the house for this anymore - and this "should" make my wife happy!

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

I am going to solder in two corny disconnect ports on to my tops and will show you when I am done - one will be for flow in - one will be for air/co2 being released. When I am done - I will not have to go into the house for this anymore - and this "should" make my wife happy!

Maierhof,

I'm curious to see what your idea is. I was thinking about adding a gas post to the lid as well - sounds like for a different purpose though. I'd like it so that I could blow CO2 up through the cone to dislodge trub or yeast allowing it to flow down into the jar. It certainly worked with air prior to pitching yeast.

Notice in the first pic below that there is quite a bit of clear wort above the trub. The second pic is after I swapped in an empty jar - the air in the jar "glub glubbed" up through the wort and I got a jar full of trub. Sure, it settled a lot but all that was settled in the cone before the air blew through it. This was all prior to pitching yeast.

View attachment 258455
View attachment 258456

Seems like the bubbles were good at making things move. But I don't want any air going in my IPAs after the yeast have been working. So, I'd have to bubble CO2 in - hence the addition of a gas post.

Now, what to do with a quart of Safale S-04?

 

[maierhof]

Maierhof,

I'm curious to see what your idea is. I was thinking about adding a gas post to the lid as well - sounds like for a different purpose though.

Actually this is why I said said 15.5g sanke keg (where I ferment) - I have a tc top with a full bore compression fitting where I stick a 1/2" racking cane in and push the beer out with co2. I typically wait around 24 hrs before I pitch the yeast - this way I can ensure that the temps are just right. Using a SS top like the one you found gives me the idea that I can take some of the trub out before I pitch. This trub will be mostly whirlfloc, grain and hops particulate. If I put two corney disconnects onto the lid - I can have flow into and air out of it. This can be used for taking trub out and also taking yeast out at the end. One good aspect is that the yeasties won't get awoken since they will not be touching oxygen. Another is just ease of use - imho.

Truth be told - I have been thinking about a way to do this for a while - but never had the time to actually devote to developing the idea further. With you doing the leg work on the lids - I have ordered them and I will get to this soon and then let you know.

Notice in the first pic below that there is quite a bit of clear wort above the trub. The second pic is after I swapped in an empty jar - the air in the jar "glub glubbed" up through the wort and I got a jar full of trub. Sure, it settled a lot but all that was settled in the cone before the air blew through it. This was all prior to pitching yeast.

View attachment 258455
View attachment 258456

Seems like the bubbles were good at making things move. But I don't want any air going in my IPAs after the yeast have been working. So, I'd have to bubble CO2 in - hence the addition of a gas post.

I have to say that this idea is beautifully simple and does the trick. You disturb the conical trub in such a way to make most of it fall into the jar - then replace with air and then oxygenate your beer right before the pitch. Great idea!

If I were you I would be doing a test on how the beer tastes via the air from the jar or does it taste better with air from an o2 stone at the right length for your volume of beer. I would love to hear how that test proves out - probably no taste differential - but you could see it in the FG difference probably.

If I move to conicals - this is definitely the way I will be capturing trub and yeast for sure!

Now, what to do with a quart of Safale S-04?

=;> Make more beer?!

 

[PlinyTheMiddleAged]

Actually this is why I said said 15.5g sanke keg (where I ferment) - I have a tc top with a full bore compression fitting where I stick a 1/2" racking cane in and push the beer out with co2. I typically wait around 24 hrs before I pitch the yeast - this way I can ensure that the temps are just right. Using a SS top like the one you found gives me the idea that I can take some of the trub out before I pitch. This trub will be mostly whirlfloc, grain and hops particulate. If I put two corney disconnects onto the lid - I can have flow into and air out of it. This can be used for taking trub out and also taking yeast out at the end. One good aspect is that the yeasties won't get awoken since they will not be touching oxygen. Another is just ease of use - imho.

Ah! Now I'm on the same page with you. Looking forward to seeing what you end up with.

If I were you I would be doing a test on how the beer tastes via the air from the jar or does it taste better with air from an o2 stone at the right length for your volume of beer. I would love to hear how that test proves out - probably no taste differential - but you could see it in the FG difference probably.

I'm not counting on a jar full of air to provide enough O2 to make the yeast happy. What I did was to attach the emptied jar, let it refill with trub, add yeast, and drop in an O2 stone for about a minute of pure O2.

=;> Make more beer?!

An excellent idea! I'll soon have quite a bank of yeasts to choose from.