Burner/pot question

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Navy_Chief

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I was wondering if this (link) setup would be adequate for doing full boils on a 5 gallon batch.

Thanks!
:mug:
 
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that's what I use. If it's aluminum, make sure you boil a batch of water in it first to build up an oxidized layer, otherwise your beer will taste like metal.
 
yeah just once will work. you'll see it turn from sivler to almost an orange color. this oxydized layer will stay for your future batches. also, I'm pretty sure you aren't supposed to clean it with oxy clean or one step due to the oxygen it uses to clean. not sure of the reason behind this, just an fyi though.
 
I got the same thing (almost) and have no problem boiling the 5 gal that fits in mine, but I have to add top up water after boil for the evaporation. Now I use the same burner on a 15 gal pot, and had no problem getting 8.5 gal to a boil outside in -20C last weekend.
Agree with the boiling water treatment, mine turned more of a white grey clour, and now all I do is give it a good rinse with warm water and a soft sponge. Treat the aluminum pot like a cast iron pan, get it seasoned once and careful cleaning after, but don't scrub.
 
That one looks a little cheap and only has 38,000-BTU burner vs. the $60 one with 58,000 BTU cast iron propane burner. The stand is nice and sturdy with strong welds. The cheaper one looks dangerous especially if you were to heat up all the oil. Mine also has a square base and looks like it could hold larger pots if you needed to (don't add the safety bars).

turkey.jpg
 
Take 30qt (pot size) and divide that by 4qt (1gal) you will get 7.5 That number represents the amount of gallons in a 30qt pot.

Finally I get to add something to this forum!


I remember that feeling:rockin:, after asking several question:cross:s, lol
 
that's what I use. If it's aluminum, make sure you boil a batch of water in it first to build up an oxidized layer, otherwise your beer will taste like metal.

I have to disagree here, I never bothered with building up oxide layer. I just started brewing. My first batch from that pot is long time gone (Kolsch) and I could not taste any metals in there. I think its misconception like many others floating around here. Sure its probaly a good thing to boil some water in it upfront, but your beer is not going to taste like aluminium at all
 
I have to disagree here, I never bothered with building up oxide layer. I just started brewing. My first batch from that pot is long time gone (Kolsch) and I could not taste any metals in there. I think its misconception like many others floating around here. Sure its probaly a good thing to boil some water in it upfront, but your beer is not going to taste like aluminium at all

You're probably right. I hadn't tried not doing it just because of the fear of having to dump my batch. I assume that if you just boiled water in a new aluminum kettle you may have a hint of metallic in there, but when you boil a full 5 gallons of wort, there are so many flavors around, I doubt you'd pick up the taste. Still it doesn't take much effort just to be safe.
 
I had got a fryer kettle deal at a thrift store for $30. It was a aluminum pot so I boiled 6.5 gal water in it first. Good thing I did, There was a bunch of aluminum floating in the liquid. It did build up the oxidized layer. I would highly suggest treating a aluminum kettle to a water boil prior to brewing. Just my opinion.
 
and one more thing to mention. Do NOT get any pot less than 40 qt as some here suggest, you will regret it very fast and can thank me later :)

Mind if I ask why? At my consumption rate even a 5 gallon batch is a lot of beer. I would think that 8 gallons is plenty of space for a 5 gallon boil, even with evaporative losses... Or am I way wrong on this?

:mug:
 
Mind if I ask why? At my consumption rate even a 5 gallon batch is a lot of beer. I would think that 8 gallons is plenty of space for a 5 gallon boil, even with evaporative losses... Or am I way wrong on this?

:mug:

8 gallons IS plenty of space. As long as you watch your pot you'll be fine. I use Fermcap-S to help with foam control and that helps a lot with avoiding boilover.
 
Mind if I ask why? At my consumption rate even a 5 gallon batch is a lot of beer. I would think that 8 gallons is plenty of space for a 5 gallon boil, even with evaporative losses... Or am I way wrong on this?

:mug:

boil overs and convenience of brew day. I have 40 qt pot and do 5.5 gal BIABs thats basically a limit for my pot when I add grain and 7.5 gallons of water. For just a few bucks more you not going to have to stand guard at your pot for entire duration of process. I set my at as vigorous rolling boil as I can and let it do its thing checking it once in a while.
 
BIAB of any kind of wheat beer does suck up a lot more space than you'd think it would. ;)

I think a 32 quart should be fine, but I'm a fan of smaller batches. 5 gallons is a *lot* of beer for me to drink.
 
Thanks for the replies on this, I had not considered the possibility of moving to BIAB brewing when I was looking at this. Maybe I will consider a 40 quart pot and save having to upgrade in the future when I make the step from extract to BIAB, which may not be that long really.

:mug:
Chief
 
Go for it, Chief! Just sub out 2 lbs. of DME for 3 lbs. of 2-row (assuming ~65% efficiency) in an extract recipe that you've done and you like, and then give BIAB a shot. Mashing can be very, very complicated... but it doesn't have to be. Get to your temp (~150F works) and hold it for an hour, then rinse the grain and boil the mash water + rinse water together. Take a gravity reading and if you're low, then add in some DME.

Later on you can worry about different sparge methods, decoctions, protein rests... etc. Just make the leap now and figure out where you're going with it later. ;)

When it comes to brewing, most of us learn best by doing.

My 1/50th of a dollar.
 

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