Apartment Brewing with Mediocre Stove Top

[Lazer_Lad]

As the title states, I am brewing in an apartment and do not have the space outdoors to use a burner. I like the idea of using full grain to have more control over wort flavor, but I do not have a stove top that can full boil a 5 gallon batch. I am convinced the water is boiling on the bottom based on noise, and I am getting a lot of steam at the top. However, I do not get a full rolling boil before adding hops. I was wondering if/how this might impact the hop process, bittering and flavoring. I wanted to pick your collective brains and see what experience people have with this!

 

[mac_1103]

Have you checked to see that you're getting the water up to boiling temperature? Hop utilization does drop pretty precipitously at lower temps, but boiling is boiling and I don't think you really need all that vigorous a boil to get good hop extraction. You might need to boil longer to make sure that you drive off all of the DMS.

 

[huckdavidson]

What is the temperature of the wort at the to of the pot?

A soft boil is all that's necessary and in some ways may be advantageous.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...question-and-observation.655882/#post-8398058

 

[Lazer_Lad]

What is the temperature of the wort at the to of the pot?

A soft boil is all that's necessary and in some ways may be advantageous.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...question-and-observation.655882/#post-8398058

That's a good question, and I did not think to check. I'll measure it next batch.

 

[Lazer_Lad]

Have you checked to see that you're getting the water up to boiling temperature? Hop utilization does drop pretty precipitously at lower temps, but boiling is boiling and I don't think you really need all that vigorous a boil to get good hop extraction. You might need to boil longer to make sure that you drive off all of the DMS.

I did not think about the impact on sulpher molecules. DMS does have a relatively low boiling point, so I'm hoping it will have evaporated regardless. But boiling for a bit longer does make sense.

 

[Kickass]

I live 4400 feet above sea level. Boiling for me is typically 204f. I don’t think I can tell a difference in hop utilization.

You mentioned going all grain, a typical grain mash is around 150f. Despite challenges of maintaining temperature swings on the stove top mash, your mash limitations will not be heat. You should be able to mash and do a partial volume boil which you can top off with water at the end.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

I do not have a stove top that can full boil a 5 gallon batch

Is brewing 2.5 gal batches on an 1800W induction cook top (~ $75 ) an option?

 

[hotbeer]

You can scale the recipes down to less volume. You can still use 5 or 10 gallon kits too and just divide everything up to the proper quantity.

Figure out what the maximum volume of water is that you can bring to a vigorous boil in a reasonable amount of time. Then scale your brews to that quantity or less. I started out with one gallon all grain brews. I still am only doing 2.5 to 2.75 gallons at a time. I did buy a induction burner to give me the ability to boil 3 gallons of wort at as hard or soft a boil as I desire. I can fit it on the stove top underneath the exhaust fan. But condensation can be an issue when boiling that amount of water vigorously. I'm planning on upgrading my kitchen exhaust fan to have more CFM's.

If your exhaust fan is one that doesn't vent to the outside, then that will be an issue for any amount. I have seen some kitchen exhaust fans that someone installed and just vented to the attic space. Which is likely very against code, a fire hazard, and a good way to build up moisture in that space for mold to grow.

 

[BrewnWKopperKat]

Despite challenges of maintaining temperature swings on the stove top mash,

FWIW, when I BIAB (2.75 gal batches), the kettle is double wrapped in Reflectix and the lid is covered with an old bath towel. Mash temperature is stable over a 60 min mash when using around 5# - 6# of malt. So, for me, there are no temperature swings to manage.

 

[MaxStout]

Buy an electric bucket heater on Amazon or from a farm store. In winter I brew on an electric stove top and do full volume BIAB in an 8 gal kettle. I use both stove burner and bucket heater at the same time, works great. The heat stick helps bring it to a boil, then I can remove it and continue with the stove top to maintain boil.

Edit: I just noticed you are a new member and from the Twin Cities. Welcome to HBT, from another denizen of the Twin Cities!

 

[Lazer_Lad]

Is brewing 2.5 gal batches on an 1800W induction cook top (~ $75 ) an option?

It is! Unfortunately, I am just being stubborn and want to brew more volume if I can. I have really been enjoying sharing with friends. So quite literally, the more the merrier!

 

[Lazer_Lad]

FWIW, when I BIAB (2.75 gal batches), the kettle is double wrapped in Reflectix and the lid is covered with an old bath towel. Mash temperature is stable over a 60 min mash when using around 5# - 6# of malt. So, for me, there are no temperature swings to manage.

That's really handy, thank you!

 

[mac_1103]

Unfortunately, I am just being stubborn and want to brew more volume if I can. I have really been enjoying sharing with friends. So quite literally, the more the merrier!

So brew five gallon batches, split the boil, and combine in the fermenter.

 

[Broken Crow]

If you're really commited to larger batches; Consider building at least a separate cart that you can use with an induction burner or electirc BIAB with an overhead pulley, or maybe upgrade to an AIO unit or even go whole-hog and build a 2V or 3V system. If you have the inclination to look for inspiration, spend a couple hours perusing this thread which, though predominantly 3V rigs, has many brilliant smaller and more compact solutions:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/show-us-your-sculpture-or-brew-rig.46578/

 

[Whisky River]

How limited are you on space? I apartment brew 5 gallon batches in an all-in-one. Some of them like the Grainfather are incredibly space efficient, with all the parts including the chiller designed to store inside the unit which is generally narrower than a brew pot and can often store under a counter.

 

[tracer bullet]

For boiling you could do two pots side by side, I've done it many times in the past.

I like the induction idea, and the additional electric heater idea.

I'd consider some of the AIO All-In-One's i.e. Anvil Foundry if you have a 240V outlet in the place.

 

[dbsmith]

Is it safe to put a heating element directly in some acidic wort? I prefer my beer sans heavy metals

I used to have this same stove problem for many years. You can divide it in 2 pots and recombine after boiling like others suggested. You can also partially cover the pot with foil to help, but make sure you can still see into it so you can watch for any boilover

 

[Miraculix]

Is it safe to put a heating element directly in some acidic wort? I prefer my beer sans heavy metals

I used to have this same stove problem for many years. You can divide it in 2 pots and recombine after boiling like others suggested. You can also partially cover the pot with foil to help, but make sure you can still see into it so you can watch for any boilover

I think a lot of German homebrewers are doing this, these things are sold at all the German homebrew shops.

 

[amber-ale]

As the title states, I am brewing in an apartment and do not have the space outdoors to use a burner. I like the idea of using full grain to have more control over wort flavor, but I do not have a stove top that can full boil a 5 gallon batch. I am convinced the water is boiling on the bottom based on noise, and I am getting a lot of steam at the top. However, I do not get a full rolling boil before adding hops. I was wondering if/how this might impact the hop process, bittering and flavoring. I wanted to pick your collective brains and see what experience people have with this!

Do half batches. 2.5 gallon should work on a stove top just fine.
I do it all the time

 

[Broken Crow]

If you want to remain on your stovetop, I'll sort of second @MaxStout s suggestion, but include this option that's purpose made for brewing: For Sale - BrewHardware Hot Rod 110v Heat Stick

 

[Dancy]

As the title states, I am brewing in an apartment and do not have the space outdoors to use a burner. I like the idea of using full grain to have more control over wort flavor, but I do not have a stove top that can full boil a 5 gallon batch. I am convinced the water is boiling on the bottom based on noise, and I am getting a lot of steam at the top. However, I do not get a full rolling boil before adding hops. I was wondering if/how this might impact the hop process, bittering and flavoring. I wanted to pick your collective brains and see what experience people have with this!

I started inside with 5 gallon batches using an 1800 watt portable induction cooktop with an 8 gallon SS kettle. I mashed in a 10 gallon Igloo Cooler. My condo electric stove was not adequate but I could use the stove top to place the induction cooker on so I could use that space. 1800 watts doesn’t require a special outlet and I found it more than adequate to boil 6 - 6.5 gallons of wort. It isn’t a super rigorous boil but certainly adequate or better. Portable induction cooktops are affordable at $60 or $70 to maybe a $100 or so. Be sure you pick one that is a design that accommodates your kettle well. Mine is basically a square block with the knobs on the front — not the top.Also, don’t purchase a unit LESS than 1800 watts.

 

[Hoochin'Fool]

As a couple of others have mentioned, reflectix makes a HUGE difference (and it's great for BIAB mash temp stabilization, too). I've got a stupid glass-top stove, and with a 3-times-wraparound of reflectix insulation, I can get a gentle boil going on 3.5 gallons of wort. The one nice feature of a glass-top stove, is that it it easy to clean up all the sticky drips that I inevitably spill!

Also, using malt extract can be used to bump up your gravity without necessarily needing a bigger boil pot (or better heating!). If you're in the northwest corner of twin cities, Beermeister has 3 lb bags of DME for $12.

 

[sibelman]

Is it safe to put a heating element directly in some acidic wort?

We electric brewers have been doing exactly this for decades, and many of us have lived to tell the tale. Apparently, good stainless steel doesn't lose too many atoms to the acidic wort, whether the steel is on an element or the kettle itself.

 

[Kickass]

Is it safe to put a heating element directly in some acidic wort? I prefer my beer sans heavy metals

I’ll continue to take that risk and I think electric heating elements are immensely helpful. But hey, operate within your comfort range.

 

[sibelman]

it safe to put a heating element directly in some acidic wort? I prefer my beer sans heavy metals

One more try.

Like @dbsmith I seek to avoid toxins (besides ethanol and a wee bit of StarSan) in the beer I make. So I did some reading.

"Heavy metals" generally do not include the main constituents of stainless steel, though iron, chromium, and nickel seem kinda heavy. This category of toxins usually refers to arsenic, mercury, lead, and cadmium. These should be avoided of course, but should also be quite scarce in stainless steel.

The acidity of beer made in stainless steel may increase nickel levels. Many people have sensitivity to nickel; but iron and chromium are thought to be essential nutrients. Too, nickel is not a cumulative toxin.

So: heating elements, like kettles, could be a concern re nickel sensitivity. Beer and many other foods may contain substantial amounts of this ubiquitous metal.

Main point: when it comes to purity, I see no reason to be more concerned about elements than about brewing vessels. And not much reason to worry about either.

Cheers!

 

[dbsmith]

So: heating elements, like kettles, could be a concern re nickel sensitivity. Beer and many other foods may contain substantial amounts of this ubiquitous metal.

I obviously wouldn't be concerned about stainless steel contact. I was asking because often heating elements are made from other metals and was wondering if anyone has looked into this. Good to know though that people have been doing this for a long time and are still around

 

[mac_1103]

I was asking because often heating elements are made from other metals and was wondering if anyone has looked into this. Good to know though that people have been doing this for a long time and are still around

Really? Even the cheap ones that I've seen marketed for use in pools are all 304 stainless steel and I think that's the reason that people have been doing it for a long time and not worrying about it.

 

[Yesfan]

YMMV when it comes to electric stoves, but the biggest batch I can do on mine is about 4 gallons. I have to partially cover the kettle with its lid to get a decent rolling boil though.

Have you done a test run? Fill your preferred pot with water and see if it can come to a rolling boil. I don't like to use anything bigger than my 5 gallon stock pot, so 4 gallons would be max in that pot for me.

I love stove top brewing but I don't do it as much as I like. I'd do more of it if it weren't for the W....I....F....................

 

[dbsmith]

Even the cheap ones that I've seen marketed for use in pools are all 304 stainless steel and I think that's the reason that people have been doing it for a long time and not worrying about it.

I have seen bucket heaters in the past (years ago) that were definitely not stainless steel on the heating element. I know a lot of them use a nickel-chromium alloy. It might be totally fine... but it might not be, so I opted not to use it. Maybe nowadays the ones sold at brewshops are all stainless

 

[z-bob]

With a natural gas stove with a high-output burner, I could easily boil 4 gallons of wort in a 22 quart canner. I'd have to keep topping it up during the boil to brew 4 gallons, but that worked surprisingly well. I upgraded to a heavy 8 gallon kettle and it struggled to bring 4 gallons to a simmer, much less 5 gallons (I don't know why it made a difference)

I got a "Hot Rod" immersion heater with I think a 1650W heating element and with it and the stove I'm sure I could boil 6+ gallons in that 8 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch, but I like 4 gallon brews so I'm sticking with that. 5 gallons is a good size, but there's nothing magic about it and I have lots of 5 gallon buckets and 4 gallon carboys.