Built a copper manifold for MT, but not happy with it

[CraigKing]

I have a 10gal Igloo cooler MT and wanted to build a copper manifold for it as opposed to using a false bottom or bazooka tube. Plus I wanted the pride of a DIY project. Anyhow, copper pipe, copper elbows, flux and lead-free solder. The slits were cut with a Dremel tool, then sanded on both the inside and outside.

I know some of my solder spots aren't pretty, but overall, I'm not happy with how discolored the pipe turned out. I was using a MAP torch to heat the pipe. I applied the flux first, then heated the pipe. There are places where I could wipe soot off of the copper pipe. Is this normal? Will I just have to do some major cleaning afterwards?

I just don't feel like this is something I want to expose my beer to....

Feedback?

Thanks

 

[day_trippr]

Well that job would definitely set you back in your plumbing apprenticeship
But if you used lead-free solder and water cleanable flux you just need to brighten that thing up and wash it thoroughly.

I'd use a wad of stainless steel wool and work it over then wash the heck out of it. I wouldn't be worried after all that...

Cheers!

 

[CraigKing]

Yes, lead-free solder and water-soluble flux. So the discoloration on the pipes is normal? And it can be cleaned off?

And yes, they aren't the prettiest solder joints. I was going for function over form.

 

[EuBrew]

Should clean up pretty easy. Part of your issue was soldering on the drywall, I'm sure the paper added some of the soot. Good off will remove anything water doesn't. Just make sure you clean the crap out of it if you have to use the goof off.

 

[b-boy]

Toss it in a bucket of starsan for a few hours after you clean it up with some steel wool.

 

[CraigKing]

Good call on the drywall adding to some of the soot - I hadn't thought about that.

I guess I'll spend some time cleaning it with steelwool tomorrow, then soaking it in StarSan. Or should I use PBW since it's an actual cleaner, and StarSan is a sanitizer? I mean I'll soak it in StarSan before I actually use it, but for cleaning properties, should I use PBW?

 

[EuBrew]

The acidic nature of the StarSan cleans the copper really well, makes it nice and shiny.

 

[CraigKing]

I didn't realize that. I was wondering why everyone's copper manifolds looked so shiny after multiple uses.

Thanks to everyone who commented. I'll work on cleaning it up and post an updated picture soon. I'm looking forward to using this new manifold - I'm sure my beer will taste 100x better now since this was a DIY project too!

 

[imasickboy]

FWIW, slits go down, not up, and I wouldn't have soldered it. Now you can't disassemble for cleaning. I can't speak for others, but that's how I roll.

And yes, it will taste better, just because you made it yourself.

Finally, just throwing this out there for reference purposes, half inch cpvc fit in half inch copper fittings. Easier to put slits in, and cheaper, as well. It doesn't fit snug unless you slightly bend the fittings out of round, then it works great. I've got one manifold made each way. I really have no preference, but the cpvc was faster to build.

 

[CraigKing]

Yeah, I'll put the slits facing down. I had to turn it upside down for the picture to see the discoloration! The tee in the middle still rotates.

 

[b-boy]

The tee in the middle still rotates.

Genius!

The first one I made was fixed. Now I make them rotate. Much easier to fit or transfer between kegs.

 

[CraigKing]

Quick update - A lot of the solder joints didn't hold together anyway, so I disassembled the whole thing. I soaked everything in soapy water then went to work with some steel wool. Wow, I was majorly impressed with how well the copper cleaned up. A lot of the solder chunks came off. I cleaned everything, then decided to NOT use solder when reassembling. I slightly crimped the male ends of the pipes so they fit snuggly with the elbows and fittings.

I got the whole thing assembled and connected to my mash tun. I was very impressed with how well it cleaned up. Right now it's soaking in StarSan.

Pics to come later today.

 

[Staestc]

I would not solder all of the joints. You are going to want to be able to get a brush inside to clean it. Most of the time you can pressure fit the joints, or at least some of them, so you can disassemble it to clean.

 

[b-boy]

Quick update - A lot of the solder joints didn't hold together anyway, so I disassembled the whole thing. I soaked everything in soapy water then went to work with some steel wool. Wow, I was majorly impressed with how well the copper cleaned up. A lot of the solder chunks came off.

You must have had some oil on you copper, or you had some bad flux.

Did use use an emory cloth to clean up the copper before you soldered? Any oxidation, oils, or chemicals can keep you from getting a solid bond.

I had an issue one time with some pipe I was sweating. It wouldn't bond properly. It turned out to be the flux I was using.

 

[stevehaun]

It will clean up fine and work great! Go make some beer!

 

[CraigKing]

You must have had some oil on you copper, or you had some bad flux.

Did use use an emory cloth to clean up the copper before you soldered? Any oxidation, oils, or chemicals can keep you from getting a solid bond.

I had an issue one time with some pipe I was sweating. It wouldn't bond properly. It turned out to be the flux I was using.

I'll be honest, I bought the cheapest flux I could find. That might've been part of the problem. As for cleaning the copper before soldering, no, I don't think I did. I used sandpaper to clean up the slits I cut, but not the ends where I was going to solder. Either way, a couple lessons learned.

It will clean up fine and work great! Go make some beer!

Already on it! I have a porter recipe in my MT right now! 45 minutes left on the mash, then I get to test out my new copper manifold!

 

[horseinmay]

For future reference, you'll need to clean the surface to be soldered with sandpaper beforehand. Also, only apply heat to the fitting. When the solder will flow into the joint just by touching it to the fitting, then the entire thing is hot enough. Don't use the flame itself to melt the solder.