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Build your dream 5 gallon electric BIAB system....that will be at my house

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orono

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I just posted in the conical thread. I mentioned that I was going to put something here similar to "if money was not in the top 5 of your brewing/BIAB concerns, build me your dream 5 gallon electric BIAB system." I figured that since this is the equipment thread that this probably fits well here. Since this is only my second post and I do not have the ground rules down completely, if this is the wrong place or content, please let me know.

I look forward to any and all suggestions.
 
My dream system isn't 5 gallon and there are so many options for 5 gallon systems out there. I'm using the Brewers Edge Mash and Boil and really like it. My dream system is something like the Blichman or Spike Pilot systems, 15 gallon
 
I feel like BIAB is supposed to be inexpensive. THe idea is to keep a smaller footprint, with less parts, and thereby less cost than a full shiny pilot system. It has its disadvantages for sure, but the cost and size outweigh those disadvantages. If money was no option i'd 100% be going for a full custom built 10-15 gallon 3v e-herms system. To me stepping up to 1bbl or higher you might as well open a brewery
 
Thanks for your comments. I appreciate them a lot. A follow-up question: Why a 10 or 15 gallon system vs. a 5 gallon?
 
I've got a 3vessel hermes system designed for 5 gallon finished batches, but it certainly does run out pretty fast once you have a party or a group of friends over. Its great since you can vary your portfolio of beers and brew a lot of different stuff, but if you find yourself limited on time, it doesnt take any longer to brew a 10 gallon batch than it does a 5, so 10 gallons means more beer on hand. Plus you can always split your batches in 2 for experimentation. IE: Brew a 10 gallon batch of NEIPA, put it into 2x 5 gallon fermenters, and do one as a milkshake IPA with Fruit, and another with a completely different dryhop. Or a blonde ale where one half is basic blonde, the other is flavored.

I'm totally happy with my 5 gallon system for now. Its 120v, it didnt require me rewiring my basement, and it fits in my space. But if i could step up to 10 gallons, i wouldnt hate it
 
... BIAB is supposed to be inexpensive....

There's nothing that says it is supposed to be inexpensive. Many folks do have inexpensive rigs, but there is also a wide variety of BIAB rigs on the market that I wouldn't describe as inexpensive (for what you get).

...If money was no option i'd 100% be going for a full custom built 10-15 gallon 3v e-herms system...

I'm the opposite. In many ways I would consider a 3V E-herms to be a downgrade from my elegantly simple and effective BIAB rig.
 
I picked up a 15gal brew-boss second hand recently that I'm in the process of setting up. From what I've read and watched I would say it's my dream setup (time will tell). It's eBIAB with customizable automation for most of the process with wireless control from a tablet and voice notifications. Ticks just about all the boxes on my list including some I didn't know I wanted.

If money wasn't an issue I'd probably buy the same thing in a newer model with all the bells and whistles. If I hadn't happened across the used brew-boss or was tight on money, I'd lean more towards a brewzilla, digiboil, anvil, robobrew or similar all in one ebiab solution. There are several options out there these days that dont break the bank and make great beer.
 
Thanks for your comments. I appreciate them a lot. A follow-up question: Why a 10 or 15 gallon system vs. a 5 gallon?
5 gallons has been running out very fast for me. I'd like the ability to go up to 15 as my personal preference. Gives me options on brew size.
 
There's nothing that says it is supposed to be inexpensive. Many folks do have inexpensive rigs, but there is also a wide variety of BIAB rigs on the market that I wouldn't describe as inexpensive (for what you get).



I'm the opposite. In many ways I would consider a 3V E-herms to be a downgrade from my elegantly simple and effective BIAB rig.
Totally agree. I'm a one-pot + cooler mash tun brewer. No need for pumps, etc. If BIAB had been a thing when I built my electric pot, I'd be doing that. Simpler = better for me.
 
I think biab vs single pot and Cooler vs 3 vessel e-herms vs etc etc etc comes down to preference of course as well. Personally i'm the type where i research DEEP and i try to learn everything i can, including things i dont even have my hand in yet such a pro brew systems. Ultimately i went with 3v e-herms because of its repeatability, its roots in pro-brewery hardware and methods, and the precise control you get with electric elements and controllers. eBIAB certainly can accomplish a lot of the same things, but again, for me personally i like being able to brew in a way that educates me on if i was to work in the pro space, because hey, ya never know. Its a hobby. Like people who own multiple thousand dollar drones just to fly it around your neighborhood and take awesome 4k shots of said neighborhood. Sure no one is paying you for those pictures like if you had a legitimate drone photography business, but its your hobby and you want to enjoy the way you want to enjoy it. Plus my time is limited, and i like being able to multitask, so brewing with my electric system i can walk away often and go get other stuff done while it does its thing. I mowed my lawn last weekend while my NEIPA mashed hah. I don't have to babysit anything or make an entire Saturday out of my brew session.
 
First, my theoretical ideal system (since it doesn't really exist)

15G kettle with welded fittings for drain, recirculation return and whirlpool & lid with welded fitting for steam slayer
240V induction burner controllable with a PID
SS Basket with minimal deadspace at the bottom

Why I want this:
  • 15G kettle is a nice size to do everything from 10G low gravity beers to 5G high gravity stuff.
  • Welded fittings because I don't want to deal with potential leaks...I think it's a better solution
  • Steam slayer so that I can brew indoors without worrying about ventilation
  • Induction burner so that I don't have the large space at the bottom with no grain. With a heating unit in the kettle, it forces longer legs on a basket and intriduces "dead space" below the basket. Recirculation will ensure that wort gets equal contact with the grains, but the dead space imposes limitations for very low and very high gravity brews.
  • 240V for fast heating.
  • PID compatible for step mashing
  • SS basket (vs bag) because I like clear wort.
The issue with this rig is that most induction burners have built in temp settings and, when initially powered up are not heating. Since PIDs work by cycling power, the burner is never in output mode. I've seen one 208v system for overseas that I think people have adapted somehow.
I'd like to see a purpose built induction burner for brewing.

So, take the same concepts and, instead, use a traditional heating coil immersed in the wort. For this I'd go with an SS Brewtech system. I like that their controller works by varying voltage instead of cycling power off/on. It's a welded kettle and the trub dam is pretty cool. They're supposed to come out with a dedicated single vessel brewing system, but they've been saying soon (like next couple months) since last winter.

With that rig, I'd add one other kettle with a false bottom (I'd just use the one I have now) so that I could do kettle rims for really high gravity beers.
 
Ultimately i went with 3v e-herms because of its repeatability,
Not going to debate whether 3v is more repeatable than 1v but I thought this highlighted a definite difference in my personality. One of my quirks is that I never measure my coffee creamer in the morning because that makes it different every time...
 
...

So, take the same concepts and, instead, use a traditional heating coil immersed in the wort. For this I'd go with an SS Brewtech system. I like that their controller works by varying voltage instead of cycling power off/on. ...
Minor technical nit-pick: The SS Brewtech controller doesn't actually vary the voltage to the element (regardless of their claims), but rather, it just switches/cycles it at a faster rate.

Brew on :mug:
 
Wow, this is a fascinating thread, even with all the prickliness of the thread starter.

I think most of what he is doing goes way beyond what the thread starter asked for in this thread. Still, it looks the concept of the standpipe is a real good way to avoid stuck mashes or sparges. Then again, I think using a too-big pump for the job, as he does, may be enough in itself to solve that problem. I use a Chugger in my single kettle recirculating system (24L kettle) with no filters other than my brewing bag, and I don't think I've even come close to getting stuck.

One other idea from that thread that has real world application is to use an empty BIAB bag for the boil to catch hop detritus. I think I am going to try that one this weekend if I happen to have a second bag available.

I hope to see more ideas for an ideal small system here.
 
I think the beautiful Colorado brew systems is kind of what you are looking for. A step down from that would be high gravity brew system or brew boss system. These are all-in-one package electric B IAB 5 g systems. There are others but these came to mind. Most people are just rebuilding a similar system which saves money. There is a point where it just Is what it is. Any quality 5 gallon system that would be someone's dream I would think would have to be 240v. Here are some picks to get you going. A slick stand the keeps the PID safe and has attachments to pull a basket would be nice.
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