BruControl: Brewery control & automation software

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
fwiw, if there's a poll being accumulated, I'm fundamentally against software that has to phone home to mama for authorization or function.
There's nothing in Casa day_trippr that works that way.
I'm happy to buy a fairly priced license for a deserving effort and have - lots of times over the decades - but not if it needs the internet to work...

Cheers!

Understood. We continue to evaluate how to handle the licensing. As I mentioned above, most computers are internet connected, and the software will continue to offer other beneficial features associated with connectivity like alerts, data logging, etc. So the question is: do you prohibit the computer from being connected to the network, or do you prohibit it verifying the license remotely on occasion?

We'll discuss this further and perhaps propose some options. But so far the feedback has been good that the license scheme has worked unobtrusively.
 
If there are any hardware designers who are interested in partnering, we are open to discussions!

Just today I was emailing with Corey, of Hosehead controller fame, to see what he thought of the possibility of combining your software with his hardware. I wish you two could get in cahoots to offer an turnkey solution.
 
I would like to add that I purposely built my rig to be mobile and it uses Brucontrol offline. My little TP-Link 703 router uses libreWRT and it is inconvenient to have to reconfigure within each month to keep the licence activated. I certainly do appreciate your efforts to change the activation process to a 30 day thing. How does the BeerSmith application do activation? Its once and done.
 
Right - ^that^ is pretty much where I am as well. I have a second home up in the White Mountains that is remote enough to have literally no connectivity - not even a cell tower within range. A few times I year I toss my 3V2P herms rig in the back of my Durango for a week or two up there and bring back 10-20 gallons of fermentors when I feel like coming back to MA.
And then there are brew days at the lhbs - though I could cobble together a wifi bridge via my cell phone in that case.

Right now I have an "Armstrong" gas system (ie: full manual, frequent tweaking) but have been considering automating the HLT, and Brucontrol might have enough stuff under the hood to make that work - unless there's a dependency on connectivity...

Cheers!
 
So I must have missed it -- what's the purpose of checking the license every 30 days and what happens after 30 days if there hasn't been a connection? Is this a common practice for off the shelf software? If so, can you give me an example -- maybe I'm just blissfully unaware that this is going on in the background of all my machines and devices.
 
Last edited:
It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me why it needs to check periodically for the license given that it is a one time purchase and not a periodic subscription. If the license model was subscription based then it would make sense for it to check every month/year to make sure the user has continued to pay for the next increment of time.
 
It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me why it needs to check periodically for the license given that it is a one time purchase and not a periodic subscription. If the license model was subscription based then it would make sense for it to check every month/year to make sure the user has continued to pay for the next increment of time.
Could it be that it prevents people from copying the software and passing it out to all their brewing buddies for free?
 
I can understand the concern some people may have about software communicating with a server. Let me assure you there are no insidious intentions here. Our only goal is to make a flexible and powerful automation control system. We felt in the modern environment, given interconnected computers, that back-end communication is much more the norm than the exception. This would give us the backbone to provide future enhancements such as automatic firmware & application upgrades, remote support, cloud data reporting, online script libraries, etc. I don't know of any modern operating system that does not perform background checks and upgrades, and believe it is more the norm than the exception. How are we communicating right now? Through a server over the internet. Our licensing strictly checks your account is registered in our database - the other software you use which communicates remotely certainly does much more than that with your info. I hope the license system & communication is not a surprise to anyone - it is documented in the manual. We are transparent and will remain that way as customers' trust is critical.

The main reason we have licensing in the first place: support. As of now, that is really all. Take a look at the math for this software: given the low price and the time it takes to build and support - it does not generate any profits for us. Therefore this is much more a labor of love than a business. We will increase the price for new users in the future, but nevertheless, it would take a significant jump to make it economically compelling.

Our users and interested adopters know we respond to every email, forum post, and PM... and I frequently offer my phone number to personally address questions or concerns that cannot be easily handled over the computer. So the cost and associated license is much more to work with people who are truly committed in building advanced breweries. We have no intention of charging additional for upgrades either, until some MAJOR change/improvement is made - and that is a way off.

We could do a one-time license check, but that has some downsides beyond copying it as mentioned by @TexasWine. As I noted, we will discuss it and let you know if/how we will change it.

We sincerely do not want to lose customers, but for the users who seek some things we do not offer, such as an RPi platform without cost/support/license - CraftBeerPi may be the better solution.
 
So what happens if BruControl doesn't connect within 30 days? I get software phoning home for updates (Windows, iTunes, etc) but once they are "activated" they will function regardless of how often they connect for updates, if ever.

I'm not against the updates or the licensing, but if it has to connect to function then it's not for me.
 
Currently, BruControl checks for the license on the server every 12 hours. If it receives a successful response, it resets a 30 day clock. This is logged in a log file and is reported on screen (below). Once the 30 day clock expires, it reverts to an inactivated state, which just means communication with the interfaces is paused. Their current state will be maintained of course, though updates made by a running script will not be issued.

To date, this model has not posed any issues for any users. While it certainly doesn't need to, many BruControl installations will run full time, as an automation server, so this is unobtrusive. I can understand where in certain applications, like @purdman10 's mobile setup, even the 30 day timeline may not be ideal. You don't want to break out your mobile rig after a month only to find internet connectivity isn't available and you can't brew - that would be bad!
 

Attachments

  • License.png
    License.png
    17 KB · Views: 259
I’ve been watching this thread for quite some time and finally decided to pull the trigger and purchase the software.

I’m in the very initial stages of building a new brew rig and have been following a number of threads with great interest.

I downloaded the software, followed the documentation and was able to apply the license, flash the firmware of my mega with Ethernet shield, assign an IP address and add it to BruControl. The entire process was quite simple.

I don’t have a real strong opinion on the licensing. I plan to keep my brewing network off the Internet but don’t see any issue to connect monthly and renew my 30 day clock.
 
Last edited:
So I must have missed it -- what's the purpose of checking the license every 30 days and what happens after 30 days if there hasn't been a connection? Is this a common practice for off the shelf software? If so, can you give me an example -- maybe I'm just blissfully unaware that this is going on in the background of all my machines and devices.
My employer makes huge commercial printers. Up until recently these printers had to be on the internet and update the license every 30 days otherwise they would become disabled... thought here was if a customer stopped ordering consumables or fell into a credit dispute then the printer would become a paperweight until it was resolved...
Customers did not think this was fair so after years it was changed.Now it only needs to be licensed when updated, a hardware upgrade or software is reloaded.

As far as the brucontrol software im guessing it was implemented to help prevent "cracked" fake licenses from working as often happens with one time activation software and key generators that exist for like 90% of all software out there.
Without this feature one could just clone the hard drive on a pc, then uninstall the software from that pc and unregister it from it, reinstall on other pc and meanwhile they could just reinstall the cloned drive on the old pc and whala! This is how a lot of people would steal and duplicate licenses on some of the older xerox equipment I worked on where they added up to thousands of $$

This is a concern for me because im not sure if I will be putting internet service in my nano brewery and will be relying on tethered connection to my cell.
 
Last edited:
I personally do not have an issue with the licensing model. I also have no issues with the OS requirements. I work in the IT field and it is starting to become more common for software to require some form of periodic communication.
 
Just got done testing the new WiFi shield from Adafruit on a MEGA. This can be used in place of an Ethernet shield + WiFi bridge for those looking for a potentially cleaner solution.

This model has an external antenna option, so control panels can be built with metal enclosures, and the WiFi antenna placed outside. Pretty sweet An internal model exists too. See the Order List on the website for specifics.

IMG_3063.jpg
 
Just successfully put BruControl firmware onto a Sonoff TH10. Thanks to @smort for pointing this option out! I will be posting up a video how to build one of these soon!

Thinking a Sonoff Dual (http://a.co/5CGyL1w) with 1-wire probe and power cord for around $35 DIY would make for a really easy fermentation controller, controlled by BruControl over Wi-Fi. Also thinking a Sonoff 16A (http://a.co/i9UUNfR) for the same cost would make for a quick BIAB or basic RIMS controller.

Edit: Was too excited... added a quick demo video:
 
Last edited:
Hello existing and future BruControl users.

I thought I wanted to share how I am using BruControl in my brewery. First of all I must say I am very pleased with the system and concept. It goes far beyond other available brew control systems when it comes to flexibility, stability and expandability. So far I have not automated the brewing process but the possibility is definitely present. I am running BruControl on my desktop computer and use remote desktop from a LattePanda SBC computer in the control cabinet to control BruControl from the brewery. I guess a Rasperry Pi would do for this job as well if someone is looking at converting their craftbeerpi builds, but since I already had a LattePanda I am using it. So far it has been rock stable without any hickups and with an uptime of 3+ months so far.

On the controller side I have chosen an untraditional decentralized solution where I use one interface per kettle and one interface to run the relays in the control cabinet. That way the only wiring between the kettles and the control cabinet is 24VDC power supply. Relay/SSR switching is handled by a $3 Wemos D1 mini and the signals between control cabinet and kettles is wireless and the connection between them is handled by the powerful scripting in BruControl. I stared with a plan of using one Mega to run it all but tossed the plan as I realised it would take $150+ in cables, connectors, shields and an additional control box. So I spent the money in extra interfaces and making each a custom PCB to ease the wiring and save space.


Control cabinet with 10" screen
D6BDxY.jpg


Inside control cabinet
hE9X4D.jpg


Relay controller with onboard 24V to 5V power supply and 8 output ULN2803 darlington array to switch 24V to SSRs and contactors.
4XDq6e.jpg


3 kettle setup, HLT at left and BKL to the right.
TCOfsw.jpg


I use double wall insulated "thermopots" with 1 inch+ foam insulation between the layers.
Similar to the SS brew tech insulated mash tun but cheaper. They have insulation in the bottom as well which I have cut out and insulated with 10mm armacell. That leaves a space of nearly 2 inches which I have used to place level sensor, bottom drain and wiring/control interface.
On the picture you see the custom control PCB which holds an Adafruit Feather M0 Wifi, onboard 24V to 5V power supply, analog inputs (both 0-5V and 4-20ma), flow meter input, 0-10V output, 5V PWM output to the pump, slot for PT100 amplifier board, thermistor input and 1-wire input. The PCB was approx €12 each + the components. I used Fritzing to draw and fabricate the PCBs. Fritzing is not the best software out there to do this but for an amateur like me it was fairly easy to use.

The level sensor is a $31 YB-131 from Aliexpress. Its 0-5kpa 4-20ma but they sell it with 0-5V as well. Once properly set up it gives an accuracy of 0.1 liter. The key is to mount it far enough away from the hot liquid as its only temperature compensated up to 60 degree C. Thats why its mounted in the bottom with a silicone hose between the sensor and the kettle. I have also mounted a valve and a flushing port to flush debris that may sit in the hose after brewing.
I have drilled vent holes in the skirt to keep the space under the kettle cool. Typically the temperature under the BKL while brewing is 30-35 degree C.

bdv94p.jpg


On the Feathers below the kettles I have set up a PID in BruControl and assigned the output from it to an unused pin. On the Wemos in the control cabinet I have set up duty cycle outputs to the respective SSR. Then I have made a script in BC which tells that PID output % from the Feather=duty cycle output % from the Wemos to the SSRs. It works very good, so far I have not experienced communication failures between the controllers.

Each kettle has a pump on the outlet. The pumps are 24VDC TD5 pumps bought from brewpi.com. They come with a speed control board which accepts PWM signal from the feathers for speed control, or you can control the speed from the knob. The pump will use the signal which is highest. These pumps are more powerful than a Chugger and near completely silent while running.

YeRZnx.jpg


Self design RIMS tube and sight glass combined mounted to the outer sheet of the mash tun. On the outlet I have a PT100 sensor and a flowmeter. I use scripting to prevent the element from firing if there is low flow or high temperature over the element. The heating element is a 2400W 240V stainless cartridge heater from Aliexpress.

2C5sSl.jpg



I also use BruControl to control my fermenters. I have made a box on each fermenter with a Wemos D1 mini, pressure sensor, and a relay board inside. The relays control the heating cable under the armacell insulation and the solenoid to bleed off pressure. The temperature probe sits in the thermowell and is wired to the Wemos. In the glycol chiller there are solenoids which are controlled with wireless $5 NodeMCU Electrodragon relay board flashed with BruControl firmware. If the Wemos in the fermenter control box demands cooling the NodeMCU will open the solenoid in the glycol chiller to let cooling water to the cooling coil in the fermenter. A neat and portable solution where the only wiring needed is 240V power to the fermenter.

I have written a script in BruControl which ramps the temperature and fermenting pressure if desired. Normally I ferment at 1 psi and ramp it up to 15 psi at the end of fermentation to carbonate. Its also set up to send email notification if temperature or pressure is out of defined limits. And off course, the vessels also has a pressure safety valve in case of BruControl failure but so far it has not failed. The Wemos in the fermenter control box will continue to control pressure and heating if it looses wifi signal and/or connection with the BruControl server.

m7JI6P.jpg


gEx9yl.jpg


Next step for me would be to add motorised valves. I consider using the Electrodragon DC relay boards for valve control as they would fit well under each kettle and not require additional wiring to the control cabinet. Automation is not that important for me as I enjoy being around when brewing. BruControl has given me the possibility to add safety features like the RIMS tube not firing if low flow or the kettle and HLT elements not firing if low liquid level and when I am leaving the brewing room I can monitor it remote from the laptop or the remote desktop app on my Iphone.
 
Just successfully put BruControl firmware onto a Sonoff TH10. Thanks to a BC user for pointing this option out! I will be posting up a video how to build one of these soon!

Thinking a Sonoff Dual (http://a.co/5CGyL1w) with 1-wire probe and power cord for around $35 DIY would make for a really easy fermentation controller, controlled by BruControl over Wi-Fi. Also thinking a Sonoff 16A (http://a.co/i9UUNfR) for the same cost would make for a quick BIAB or basic RIMS controller.

Edit: Was too excited... added a quick demo video:


Awesome!
 
Hello existing and future BruControl users.

I thought I wanted to share how I am using BruControl in my brewery. First of all I must say I am very pleased with the system and concept. It goes far beyond other available brew control systems when it comes to flexibility, stability and expandability. So far I have not automated the brewing process but the possibility is definitely present. I am running BruControl on my desktop computer and use remote desktop from a LattePanda SBC computer in the control cabinet to control BruControl from the brewery. I guess a Rasperry Pi would do for this job as well if someone is looking at converting their craftbeerpi builds, but since I already had a LattePanda I am using it. So far it has been rock stable without any hickups and with an uptime of 3+ months so far.

On the controller side I have chosen an untraditional decentralized solution where I use one interface per kettle and one interface to run the relays in the control cabinet. That way the only wiring between the kettles and the control cabinet is 24VDC power supply. Relay/SSR switching is handled by a $3 Wemos D1 mini and the signals between control cabinet and kettles is wireless and the connection between them is handled by the powerful scripting in BruControl. I stared with a plan of using one Mega to run it all but tossed the plan as I realised it would take $150+ in cables, connectors, shields and an additional control box. So I spent the money in extra interfaces and making each a custom PCB to ease the wiring and save space.


Control cabinet with 10" screen
D6BDxY.jpg


Inside control cabinet
hE9X4D.jpg


Relay controller with onboard 24V to 5V power supply and 8 output ULN2803 darlington array to switch 24V to SSRs and contactors.
4XDq6e.jpg


3 kettle setup, HLT at left and BKL to the right.
TCOfsw.jpg


I use double wall insulated "thermopots" with 1 inch+ foam insulation between the layers.
Similar to the SS brew tech insulated mash tun but cheaper. They have insulation in the bottom as well which I have cut out and insulated with 10mm armacell. That leaves a space of nearly 2 inches which I have used to place level sensor, bottom drain and wiring/control interface.
On the picture you see the custom control PCB which holds an Adafruit Feather M0 Wifi, onboard 24V to 5V power supply, analog inputs (both 0-5V and 4-20ma), flow meter input, 0-10V output, 5V PWM output to the pump, slot for PT100 amplifier board, thermistor input and 1-wire input. The PCB was approx €12 each + the components. I used Fritzing to draw and fabricate the PCBs. Fritzing is not the best software out there to do this but for an amateur like me it was fairly easy to use.

The level sensor is a $31 YB-131 from Aliexpress. Its 0-5kpa 4-20ma but they sell it with 0-5V as well. Once properly set up it gives an accuracy of 0.1 liter. The key is to mount it far enough away from the hot liquid as its only temperature compensated up to 60 degree C. Thats why its mounted in the bottom with a silicone hose between the sensor and the kettle. I have also mounted a valve and a flushing port to flush debris that may sit in the hose after brewing.
I have drilled vent holes in the skirt to keep the space under the kettle cool. Typically the temperature under the BKL while brewing is 30-35 degree C.

bdv94p.jpg


On the Feathers below the kettles I have set up a PID in BruControl and assigned the output from it to an unused pin. On the Wemos in the control cabinet I have set up duty cycle outputs to the respective SSR. Then I have made a script in BC which tells that PID output % from the Feather=duty cycle output % from the Wemos to the SSRs. It works very good, so far I have not experienced communication failures between the controllers.

Each kettle has a pump on the outlet. The pumps are 24VDC TD5 pumps bought from brewpi.com. They come with a speed control board which accepts PWM signal from the feathers for speed control, or you can control the speed from the knob. The pump will use the signal which is highest. These pumps are more powerful than a Chugger and near completely silent while running.

YeRZnx.jpg


Self design RIMS tube and sight glass combined mounted to the outer sheet of the mash tun. On the outlet I have a PT100 sensor and a flowmeter. I use scripting to prevent the element from firing if there is low flow or high temperature over the element. The heating element is a 2400W 240V stainless cartridge heater from Aliexpress.

2C5sSl.jpg



I also use BruControl to control my fermenters. I have made a box on each fermenter with a Wemos D1 mini, pressure sensor, and a relay board inside. The relays control the heating cable under the armacell insulation and the solenoid to bleed off pressure. The temperature probe sits in the thermowell and is wired to the Wemos. In the glycol chiller there are solenoids which are controlled with wireless $5 NodeMCU Electrodragon relay board flashed with BruControl firmware. If the Wemos in the fermenter control box demands cooling the NodeMCU will open the solenoid in the glycol chiller to let cooling water to the cooling coil in the fermenter. A neat and portable solution where the only wiring needed is 240V power to the fermenter.

I have written a script in BruControl which ramps the temperature and fermenting pressure if desired. Normally I ferment at 1 psi and ramp it up to 15 psi at the end of fermentation to carbonate. Its also set up to send email notification if temperature or pressure is out of defined limits. And off course, the vessels also has a pressure safety valve in case of BruControl failure but so far it has not failed. The Wemos in the fermenter control box will continue to control pressure and heating if it looses wifi signal and/or connection with the BruControl server.

m7JI6P.jpg


gEx9yl.jpg


Next step for me would be to add motorised valves. I consider using the Electrodragon DC relay boards for valve control as they would fit well under each kettle and not require additional wiring to the control cabinet. Automation is not that important for me as I enjoy being around when brewing. BruControl has given me the possibility to add safety features like the RIMS tube not firing if low flow or the kettle and HLT elements not firing if low liquid level and when I am leaving the brewing room I can monitor it remote from the laptop or the remote desktop app on my Iphone.

What do you use for heating the HLT and BK? How did you attach it?
 
Smort very nice and creative build! Quick question - Brundog credited you for alerting him to this product; how did you implement it in your build?
 
I can answer that... He is not currently using the Sonoff in his build. But he did make use of the ESP8266 modules (NodeMCU and Wemos D1) quite a bit. He was the first to implement them and and demonstrate their capability, but most importantly, helped us debug some issues along the way - thank you @smort!

A handful of weeks back he pointed out that the Sonoff had an ESP8266 in it. I bought one to test but didn't get to it until this weekend. It was just coincidence that we posted back to back.
 
Smort very nice and creative build! Quick question - Brundog credited you for alerting him to this product; how did you implement it in your build?

Thanks! Brundog is right, I am not using it but when the firmware is ready I'll use one to replace the STC-1000 running my glycol chiller. I will also use when fermenting in plastic buckets. It has only one relay but if you use one for heating and one for cooling you can make them share one temperature sensor with a simple script.
 
Hello existing and future BruControl users.

I thought I wanted to share how I am using BruControl in my brewery. First of all I must say I am very pleased with the system and concept. It goes far beyond other available brew control systems when it comes to flexibility, stability and expandability. So far I have not automated the brewing process but the possibility is definitely present. I am running BruControl on my desktop computer and use remote desktop from a LattePanda SBC computer in the control cabinet to control BruControl from the brewery. I guess a Rasperry Pi would do for this job as well if someone is looking at converting their craftbeerpi builds, but since I already had a LattePanda I am using it. So far it has been rock stable without any hickups and with an uptime of 3+ months so far.

On the controller side I have chosen an untraditional decentralized solution where I use one interface per kettle and one interface to run the relays in the control cabinet. That way the only wiring between the kettles and the control cabinet is 24VDC power supply. Relay/SSR switching is handled by a $3 Wemos D1 mini and the signals between control cabinet and kettles is wireless and the connection between them is handled by the powerful scripting in BruControl. I stared with a plan of using one Mega to run it all but tossed the plan as I realised it would take $150+ in cables, connectors, shields and an additional control box. So I spent the money in extra interfaces and making each a custom PCB to ease the wiring and save space.


Control cabinet with 10" screen
D6BDxY.jpg


Inside control cabinet
hE9X4D.jpg


Relay controller with onboard 24V to 5V power supply and 8 output ULN2803 darlington array to switch 24V to SSRs and contactors.
4XDq6e.jpg


3 kettle setup, HLT at left and BKL to the right.
TCOfsw.jpg


I use double wall insulated "thermopots" with 1 inch+ foam insulation between the layers.
Similar to the SS brew tech insulated mash tun but cheaper. They have insulation in the bottom as well which I have cut out and insulated with 10mm armacell. That leaves a space of nearly 2 inches which I have used to place level sensor, bottom drain and wiring/control interface.
On the picture you see the custom control PCB which holds an Adafruit Feather M0 Wifi, onboard 24V to 5V power supply, analog inputs (both 0-5V and 4-20ma), flow meter input, 0-10V output, 5V PWM output to the pump, slot for PT100 amplifier board, thermistor input and 1-wire input. The PCB was approx €12 each + the components. I used Fritzing to draw and fabricate the PCBs. Fritzing is not the best software out there to do this but for an amateur like me it was fairly easy to use.

The level sensor is a $31 YB-131 from Aliexpress. Its 0-5kpa 4-20ma but they sell it with 0-5V as well. Once properly set up it gives an accuracy of 0.1 liter. The key is to mount it far enough away from the hot liquid as its only temperature compensated up to 60 degree C. Thats why its mounted in the bottom with a silicone hose between the sensor and the kettle. I have also mounted a valve and a flushing port to flush debris that may sit in the hose after brewing.
I have drilled vent holes in the skirt to keep the space under the kettle cool. Typically the temperature under the BKL while brewing is 30-35 degree C.

bdv94p.jpg


On the Feathers below the kettles I have set up a PID in BruControl and assigned the output from it to an unused pin. On the Wemos in the control cabinet I have set up duty cycle outputs to the respective SSR. Then I have made a script in BC which tells that PID output % from the Feather=duty cycle output % from the Wemos to the SSRs. It works very good, so far I have not experienced communication failures between the controllers.

Each kettle has a pump on the outlet. The pumps are 24VDC TD5 pumps bought from brewpi.com. They come with a speed control board which accepts PWM signal from the feathers for speed control, or you can control the speed from the knob. The pump will use the signal which is highest. These pumps are more powerful than a Chugger and near completely silent while running.

YeRZnx.jpg


Self design RIMS tube and sight glass combined mounted to the outer sheet of the mash tun. On the outlet I have a PT100 sensor and a flowmeter. I use scripting to prevent the element from firing if there is low flow or high temperature over the element. The heating element is a 2400W 240V stainless cartridge heater from Aliexpress.

2C5sSl.jpg



I also use BruControl to control my fermenters. I have made a box on each fermenter with a Wemos D1 mini, pressure sensor, and a relay board inside. The relays control the heating cable under the armacell insulation and the solenoid to bleed off pressure. The temperature probe sits in the thermowell and is wired to the Wemos. In the glycol chiller there are solenoids which are controlled with wireless $5 NodeMCU Electrodragon relay board flashed with BruControl firmware. If the Wemos in the fermenter control box demands cooling the NodeMCU will open the solenoid in the glycol chiller to let cooling water to the cooling coil in the fermenter. A neat and portable solution where the only wiring needed is 240V power to the fermenter.

I have written a script in BruControl which ramps the temperature and fermenting pressure if desired. Normally I ferment at 1 psi and ramp it up to 15 psi at the end of fermentation to carbonate. Its also set up to send email notification if temperature or pressure is out of defined limits. And off course, the vessels also has a pressure safety valve in case of BruControl failure but so far it has not failed. The Wemos in the fermenter control box will continue to control pressure and heating if it looses wifi signal and/or connection with the BruControl server.

m7JI6P.jpg


gEx9yl.jpg


Next step for me would be to add motorised valves. I consider using the Electrodragon DC relay boards for valve control as they would fit well under each kettle and not require additional wiring to the control cabinet. Automation is not that important for me as I enjoy being around when brewing. BruControl has given me the possibility to add safety features like the RIMS tube not firing if low flow or the kettle and HLT elements not firing if low liquid level and when I am leaving the brewing room I can monitor it remote from the laptop or the remote desktop app on my Iphone.
That is an awesome setup you have. Do you have anymore information on the pressure sensor for your Fermenters? Parts list would be great and how everything is wired up (I don't know much about electronics, programming etc but I can follow directions :) )
Does it just open a solenoid valve when it goes over the set pressure and then close once the pressure is reached? I'm guessing you just leave enough head space and then you don't have to worry about getting crud into the blow off tube.
 
That is an awesome setup you have. Do you have anymore information on the pressure sensor for your Fermenters? Parts list would be great and how everything is wired up (I don't know much about electronics, programming etc but I can follow directions :) )
Does it just open a solenoid valve when it goes over the set pressure and then close once the pressure is reached? I'm guessing you just leave enough head space and then you don't have to worry about getting crud into the blow off tube.
I am curious about this too. I have been planning to do the same sort of thing by controlling pressure during fermentation with a solenoid valve. My initial thought would be that you would need to do short pulses to bleed off excess pressure without undershooting too much. I may have a different experience though cause I generally ride between 5-10psi for most if fermentation before capping off to 20psi at the end. 1psi might not create enough differential from atmospheric pressure to have the same affect as a higher pressure.
 
Thanks @crane. I think you need the header for either Ethernet shield or the new Wi-Fi shield. If connecting via Serial (USB) then you don’t need to sweat it.

Also, something that @GParkins pointed out is since the header is sandwiched between the MEGA and the Ethernet/Wi-Fi shield and there is no electrical connection to the screw shield, you do not need to solder the header down... you just let it float in between. Saves steps and measuring the height of the header. Stupidly, neither the ES nor this board come with the header. And it must have 15mm long pins.

With respect to that screw shield, I don’t have any experience with it, but it looks to be a good option. I only know the Electronics Salon board which works well.
 
@rayr87 , @crane

I use a hysteresis element in BruControl to control the pressure, which opens the solenoid at setpoint + ON offset and closes it again on setpoint. I am using 0.4 psi as ON offset. Undershooting is not an issue as the solenoid will close instant when at setpoint if the sensor is connected to the same interface as the valve. If so it will not be dependent on network to tell the valve to open/close and is also safer in case network failure.

Here's how I've connected the sensor to the Wemos:
4GKBI5.png

The ceramic capacitor values are as recommended in the sensor datasheet p.4.
Resistor value is 180kohm. This will allow the Wemos to read 0-5V input from the sensor. Without it will only take 0-3.3V.

I am using this cheap and reliable valve. Coil voltage depends on your choice of power supply. I power the box with AC power, use AC coil valve, and have a AC to 5V power supply inside the box to power the Wemos since I need AC powr for the heating cable anyway. Otherwise I would have powered the box with a 12V wall mart to the box and used a 12V-5V micro usb power supply to power the Wemos.
You also need a 5V relay board of choice to control the valve. There are many options out there, single relay, double relay, or the Wemos relay shield. The shield is the easiest one to use as you just stack it on top of the Wemos. Note that the relay shield uses pin 5 to control it, which is the one wire pin. So if you are planning to use a one wire sensor with the Wemos its best to pick another relay or add another Wemos to use with the temperature sensor.

You also need a tubing to connect to the sensor. 4mm ID or 3/16" will do. I recommend mounting the sensor with the pressure ports facing downwards to prevent any liquid that may condense in the tubing to enter the sensor. If you want a threaded pressure sensor with housing there are options like this one.

I aslo recommend a silencer on the outlet valve to slow down the bleed off and off course to silence the exhaust.
 
Very impressive build Smort. Thats also great news that they are now making the TD5 pumps without the buckboost circuitry that previously effected the ability to control them via PWM in a linear fashion... I may have to pick one of those up.
 
Very impressive build Smort. Thats also great news that they are now making the TD5 pumps without the buckboost circuitry that previously effected the ability to control them via PWM in a linear fashion... I may have to pick one of those up.

Thanks. The pumps are great. They need ~22% duty cycle to start but from there they are fairly linear.
 
Thanks. The pumps are great. They need ~22% duty cycle to start but from there they are fairly linear.
The dc pumps I use now require like 25% to start but then I can dial them back down as low as 15% in some situations but 22% is slow enough for what id use it for. looks like the local vendors here like brewhardware have the older version on clearance so I wonder if its to make room for the newer model like you have. The one you have is about $200 for me to buy and have shipped here.. I cant really justify that much to myself for just for an extra gallon or 2 flow in the configuration I want it for.. not sure if I want to buy the older one and try to remove the MPPT board inside. I would use the red mosfet pwm boards im using now with my tan pumps.
 
@smort
Thanks for all the info. I'll have to start getting parts ordered up.
Instead of the wemos you linked could I use: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wem...ml?spm=2114.10010108.1000015.6.625278840RJ63E

I was thinking that I could run my temp sensor and pressure sensor to it and control heating (heating pad), cooling (small glycol pump), pressure control, and then also link my Tilt to it via the Bluetooth.

I would then have a small box with each fementor, probably mounted right to it, that I would only need to run one cord to (120v). And obviously the cooling lines for the glycol.

Again I don't know very much about this stuff so if that won't easily be possible I think I could do everything with the wemos you linked besides the tilt, correct.

Thanks for all the help.
 
@smort
Thanks for all the info. I'll have to start getting parts ordered up.
Instead of the wemos you linked could I use: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wem...ml?spm=2114.10010108.1000015.6.625278840RJ63E

I was thinking that I could run my temp sensor and pressure sensor to it and control heating (heating pad), cooling (small glycol pump), pressure control, and then also link my Tilt to it via the Bluetooth.

I would then have a small box with each fementor, probably mounted right to it, that I would only need to run one cord to (120v). And obviously the cooling lines for the glycol.

Again I don't know very much about this stuff so if that won't easily be possible I think I could do everything with the wemos you linked besides the tilt, correct.

Thanks for all the help.

Hi, we do not yet support the ESP-32. There is a fair bit of work to port to this module, but we will in the next couple of months.
 
@smort
Thanks for all the info. I'll have to start getting parts ordered up.
Instead of the wemos you linked could I use: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wem...ml?spm=2114.10010108.1000015.6.625278840RJ63E

I was thinking that I could run my temp sensor and pressure sensor to it and control heating (heating pad), cooling (small glycol pump), pressure control, and then also link my Tilt to it via the Bluetooth.

I would then have a small box with each fementor, probably mounted right to it, that I would only need to run one cord to (120v). And obviously the cooling lines for the glycol.

Again I don't know very much about this stuff so if that won't easily be possible I think I could do everything with the wemos you linked besides the tilt, correct.

Thanks for all the help.

I am looking forward to ESP-32 support but when it arrives I will probably still stay with the good old ESP8266 Wemos D1 mini for my fermenters, simply because it does the job and is incredibly stable. There has not been a single connection drop out with it and when the wifi AP reboots it reconnects immediately every time. When Tilt and ESP-32 support arrives I'll probably add an ESP-32 in the same box just for the task of communicating with the Tilt. It's cheap, small and requires no additional wiring except 5VDC supply if used only for the Tilt.

Another pro of the Wemos D1 mini is that it has an onboard voltage divider on the analog input. The analog input of ESP8266 chip can handle maximum 1V. The WemosD1 mini (and NodeMCU v2) board has a voltage divider to regulate 0-3.3V to 0-1V. By adding the 180k resistor it can take 0-5V on the analog input, but if you use another board you need to check if it has an onboard voltage divider otherwise you need to add one.
 
That's sounds like a good idea of adding it on later. I ordered the wemos you had linked and will stick with them.

I think the only thing that I don't have figured out is the temperature sensors. What would you recommend and how do you have them wired?

As you can tell all of this is new to me. Thanks.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top