Brew Bucket owners - What Mini Fridge are you using ?

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In another thread, they talk about jumping the controller on a Haier Unit. I was thinking if these units have the same jumper, then why not run that to my STC-1000 and use the fridges thermometer and my controller to run the compressor..

Have not dug into it yet.. that was just my thinking this morning...
 
Just have to be careful that you don't overrun the compressor. Presumably you've got your temperature probe measuring the wort and not the refrigerator, so when cold crashing, the compressor would run continuously regardless of how cold it is in the fridge. Since it is not a freezer, I'd be concerned about damage. To avoid this, I just set the fridge's thermostat to 32F (it holds it after a power cycle), and the ITC-308 to whatever temperature I want--let's say 35F.

This is less efficient, for sure, as the unit is not actively cooling the entire time the Inkbird's cooling cycle is on. So it will take longer to cold crash. Takes about 2.5 days to bring 5.5 gallons down from 65 to 35. But I'm not worried about wrecking the compressor.
 
I use a Magic Chef 4.4 cu ft. Mini fridge and it'll hold my 7 gal ss brew bucket fermenter or it'll hold my 3.5 gal ss mini bucket and a Mr Beer plastic keg fermenter.

I like to have that option of running two different small batches and those little MB kegs will easily hold 2.25 gal without overflowing.

I use an ink bird on it for heat and chilling since it's in the garage. Cold crashing works fine and it only takes 24 hours for it to get down to 37F for crashing.

Oh, if you have the ss brew bucket, I got annoyed with that outer o ring on the spigot. I got to looking at it and realized that the Mr Beer fermenters have the same diameter spigot hole but use a thick beveled washer. Fits the brew bucket spigot perfectly and only needs light hand tightening and makes using the racking arm a breeze. I ordered extras from Mr Beer and put them on both brew buckets. Problem solved!
 
Just have to be careful that you don't overrun the compressor. Presumably you've got your temperature probe measuring the wort and not the refrigerator, so when cold crashing, the compressor would run continuously regardless of how cold it is in the fridge. Since it is not a freezer, I'd be concerned about damage. To avoid this, I just set the fridge's thermostat to 32F (it holds it after a power cycle), and the ITC-308 to whatever temperature I want--let's say 35F.

This is less efficient, for sure, as the unit is not actively cooling the entire time the Inkbird's cooling cycle is on. So it will take longer to cold crash. Takes about 2.5 days to bring 5.5 gallons down from 65 to 35. But I'm not worried about wrecking the compressor.

Would I have the same issue if I measured the space in place of the wort? meaning temp probe not in the thermowell...

I like the idea of the fridge having power all the time so the lights light up, and the temp is shown.. yeah I know.. kind of immature.. but I like flashy things.. =)

Thanks for the response.. I will admit... plugging into my controller unit is much easier....
 
Would I have the same issue if I measured the space in place of the wort? meaning temp probe not in the thermowell...

I like the idea of the fridge having power all the time so the lights light up, and the temp is shown.. yeah I know.. kind of immature.. but I like flashy things.. =)

No you won't have that issue, but it will make it more difficult to control the temperature of the wort. And you could just as easily set the temp on the built-in thermostat to achieve the same result. :)
 
I've got two Haier BC112G's (one is actually a different model number, but they're both basically the same). Both fit 7gal and 3.5gal brew buckets if you build a little wood stand inside. I have both jumpered at the compressor and plugged into Inkbird ITC308's and they work great. When i'm fermenting i either place the probe inside the thermowell of the 7gal, or tape it to the side of the 3.5gal covered up with duct tape and paper towels to isolate it.

When i want to cold crash, i remove the probe from the fermenter and place it in a small jar of water inside and set the fridge to the mid 30s (34 or 35 usually). The small amount of water that the probe is in responds much quicker to temp swings than the 3 or 5 gallons of beer, and that way the compressor doesnt run endlessly and drop below freezing
 
For those that went with the Tramontina 126 can fridge, I recently picked up two of these and finished setting them up today. Long story short, I rewired them and bypassed the internal thermostat with the compressor being 100% controller by my ITC-310T-Bs. By adding a new power cord, I was able to maintain functionality of both the digital temp display and the blingy blue LEDs. I chose to drill holes in the back of mine to route the temp probe and heater cord. More details in my blog post, and below are some pics. http://www.microbusbrewery.org/2019/01/tramontina-fermentation-chamber-builds.html
BackGrommets.jpg
FermCircuitBoard.jpg
FermCord.jpg
FermInt2.jpg
Ferm2.jpg
 
IMG_4179.jpg


My two Haier Fridges. Work perfectly on Inkbird controllers. I have the compressors jumpered in the back so they are always on whenever the power is on (controlled by inkbird) and then i tuck a brew belt heater underneath plugged into the heating output of the inkbird. For the 7gal brewbucket i put the temp probe in the thermowell. For the 3.5 gal, i cover the temp probe in multiple paper towels folded up and then covered in tape attached to the side of the bucket
 
I just bought a Tramontina 126-can beverage center fridge from Sam’s to use as a fermentation chamber for my Brew Bucket. I intended to put this in my unfinished basement and plug it into a 20 amp GFCI outlet that I’m having installed. Well, I got home and read the owners manual for the fridge. It says to plug it into a standard, non-GFCI outlet only. Does anyone have experience with this? Will this fridge trip GFCI outlets? Code requires GFCI protection on outlets in unfinished basements.
 
I have been running my Tramontina 126-can beverage center fridge on a plugin GFCI for a few months now, don't seem to have issues. I use a heat wrap on my buckets and just felt safer to have the chambers running on a GFCI.
 
I have been running mine (along with another fridge) off of a GFCI outlet since I brought mine home and I haven’t tripped the Outlet.

All fridges instruct not to plug into a GFCI. It is not a matter of them tripping it, but rather so if they trip for another reason, everything in the fridge doesn't melt/go bad
 
For those that went with the Tramontina 126 can fridge, I recently picked up two of these and finished setting them up today. Long story short, I rewired them and bypassed the internal thermostat with the compressor being 100% controller by my ITC-310T-Bs. By adding a new power cord, I was able to maintain functionality of both the digital temp display and the blingy blue LEDs. I chose to drill holes in the back of mine to route the temp probe and heater cord. More details in my blog post, and below are some pics. http://www.microbusbrewery.org/2019/01/tramontina-fermentation-chamber-builds.html
With using the brewer's edge does it have any trouble warming up to 90ish and holding temp ? Right now I'm using a small space heater but would love to save space with the pad.
 
With using the brewer's edge does it have any trouble warming up to 90ish and holding temp ? Right now I'm using a small space heater but would love to save space with the pad.
I haven't run them that hot since building these new ferm chambers. That said, a couple years ago I brewed a Saison using Wyeast 3724 and was able to maintain temps of 92F in my old ferm chamber (full size fridge) using a Brewers Edge Space Heater. So, they should work, but I haven't confirmed it yet. I think they claim they'll do 20* above ambient, but IME they're capable of doing more than that assuming your chamber is decently insulated.
 
With using the brewer's edge does it have any trouble warming up to 90ish and holding temp ? Right now I'm using a small space heater but would love to save space with the pad.
That's a really nice build. I wish I had known about your project before I set mine up. I have the same tramontina and drilled out the drain line in the back for running the probe and it was a huge PITA. Thinking about a second one for cellaring or having dedicated lager & ale chambers so maybe I'll go that route.
 
Since the Tramontinas are no longer available, I am looking at the Haier 150 or a Danby 120.
Can anyone confirm if the Danby 120 will fit a BrewBucket?

Will either of them fit a ball-lock corny keg?
 
Interestingly enough, when I search the Sam's club website for "Tramontina Beverage Cooler", I get This Frigidaire, which looks exactly the same, has the same 4.4 Cu ft/126-can capacity, and the same 32-60F temperature range. I suspect it is the same model with a different label on the front.

If that is correct, it will definitely fit a brew bucket or a ball-lock keg.
 
Interestingly enough, when I search the Sam's club website for "Tramontina Beverage Cooler", I get This Frigidaire, which looks exactly the same, has the same 4.4 Cu ft/126-can capacity, and the same 32-60F temperature range. I suspect it is the same model with a different label on the front.

If that is correct, it will definitely fit a brew bucket or a ball-lock keg.

Were you able to confirm if this Frigidare is the same as the Tramontina?
 
Were you able to confirm if this Frigidare is the same as the Tramontina?
I went to my local Sam's Club in West Jordan, UT about a week ago. They still had a couple of Tramontinas and they had the Frigidaire right next to it. Visually they looked exactly the same. Same dimensions, same door handle, same controls. It looked like the only thing different was the branding.
 
Since the Tramontinas are no longer available, I am looking at the Haier 150 or a Danby 120.
Can anyone confirm if the Danby 120 will fit a BrewBucket?

Will either of them fit a ball-lock corny keg?

The Danby I use fits a SS BrewBucket (of course must remove the shelves). However, check closely as the Danby beverage center will set itself to 52F if power is lost/restored. Not ideal at all.
 
I went to my local Sam's Club in West Jordan, UT about a week ago. They still had a couple of Tramontinas and they had the Frigidaire right next to it. Visually they looked exactly the same. Same dimensions, same door handle, same controls. It looked like the only thing different was the branding.

Thanks! I'll have to make a trip to my local Sam's and see if they have them still.
 
Just have to be careful that you don't overrun the compressor. Presumably you've got your temperature probe measuring the wort and not the refrigerator, so when cold crashing, the compressor would run continuously regardless of how cold it is in the fridge. Since it is not a freezer, I'd be concerned about damage. To avoid this, I just set the fridge's thermostat to 32F (it holds it after a power cycle), and the ITC-308 to whatever temperature I want--let's say 35F.

This is less efficient, for sure, as the unit is not actively cooling the entire time the Inkbird's cooling cycle is on. So it will take longer to cold crash. Takes about 2.5 days to bring 5.5 gallons down from 65 to 35. But I'm not worried about wrecking the compressor.

When i cold crash, i take the ITC temp probe out of the fermenter's thermowell, and put it in a glass of water. That way the fridge drops to 35 degrees measured by the small glass of water, and then holds it there, and the fermenter's temp drops over the next 2 days. Works for me, and keeps the inside of the fridge from freezer trying to get a 65-70 degree 5 gallon mass of liquid to drop down to 35
 
IMG_4179.jpg


My two Haier Fridges. Work perfectly on Inkbird controllers. I have the compressors jumpered in the back so they are always on whenever the power is on (controlled by inkbird) and then i tuck a brew belt heater underneath plugged into the heating output of the inkbird. For the 7gal brewbucket i put the temp probe in the thermowell. For the 3.5 gal, i cover the temp probe in multiple paper towels folded up and then covered in tape attached to the side of the bucket

Looks good! I like the set up! Im in the process of purchasing one like yours. What do you mean you jumpered the compressor? Do I have to modify it? It won’t work with the inkbird on its own? Also an you lager with it?
Thanks!!
 
Looks good! I like the set up! Im in the process of purchasing one like yours. What do you mean you jumpered the compressor? Do I have to modify it? It won’t work with the inkbird on its own? Also an you lager with it?
Thanks!!

Most wine fridges have their own internal temperature control system, so you have to bypass that controller so the unit's compressor runs 24/7 when its plugged in. That way the inkbird ITC308 turns the fridge on and off as needed based on the reading of the temp probe. Wine fridges do have their own temperature controls, but for the most part they're not very accurate, and they're based on ambient temp so its not controlling the actual wort temp. I run the ITC308 into the thermowell of my fermenter so i'm accurately controlling the fermentation temperature.

Cold crashing and lagering are doable too since you are controlling the temp precisely. When i cold crash, i take the probe out of the thermowell, and put it in a small jar of water, then turn the temp control down to around 34-35. The fridge's ambient temp then stays around 34-35 and the wort temp inside the fermenter drops slowly over the course of a few days. If you left it in the thermowell of the fermenter, the beer would take much longer than the fridge to cool down, causing the fridge to run nonstop and ice up.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/haier-wine-fridge-fermentation-chamber.252316/
FOr reference, this is the page i used to modify the fridge
 
Thanks for the info!! Unfortunately the deal for the Haier fell thru.
 
Sorry if this has been covered, but has anyone looked into a fridge for the 14 gal BrewBucket BME?
 
These are very nice. What happens if the main power goes out and then returns? What is the temp of the fridge?
Should kick back on but I'm not concerned with power. I've got both fridges run through a gfci outlet on it's own 30amp breaker. Each fridge has it's own seed mat inside the fridge for heat control, run through the back of the fridge and into inkbird controllers. The last beer I cold crashed, I brought down to 35F and held it there for a week before kegging. Really happy with how it turned out.
 
The version of Tramontina bev fridge I have will turn on to the last setting used. I believe there might of been some earlier version that did not.
 
I now own both and can confirm they are the exact same fridge inside and out.

UPDATE: While playing with settings I realize now the two machines are not identical. Physically they are but the Frigidare's internal temp only goes down to 40F. When the power kicks off and back on it will hold the previous setting at 40 which is nice but if you plan to lager or cold crash lower than that, you might look at other options. For me it's not a big deal but I thought I'd mention it.
 
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UPDATE: Physically they are but the Frigidare's internal temp only goes down to 40F. When the power kicks off and back on it will hold the previous setting at 40. For me it's not a big deal but I thought I'd mention it.

I know I was planning to get the Frigidaire version (already have the Tramontina). If one follows the @microbusbrewery mod and bypass the internal thermostat, you should be able to get to 36-38F fairly easily. (I don't think the insulation is good enough to hold and maintain below 36F unless room temperature is cold enough to allow)
 
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