This is a first time post as I am just starting to begin my homebrew journey. I have bought an all-grain IPA recipe (attached) packet and from all the reading that I have done I understand all of the instructions and recipe information except for one which is named 'Maturing'. I have read that this is required, especially at the colder temperature' for pilsner / lager type beers but from everything I have read and watched online and in books I cannot see this step being needed (2-3 weeks at 5 deg C / 41 deg F) for any beers really. Can anyone clarify? Thanks a lot, I really mean this!
Box IPA Recipe - 'Maturing'
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I think what its saying is towards the end of fermentation bring it to room temp. It's a common practice with brewers . Hold steady nice temp for about 5 days during active fermentation then towards the end bring to room temp . It allows the yeast to clean up . In lagers you ferment cold and start bringing your temp up when it's about 75% fermented for a diacetyl rest .
Congrats on starting your journey. Looking at your attachment it is apparent that you are brewing an ale, which is not much different than a lager, at least on the hot side. On the cold side, ale fermentation is much warmer than lager and temperature control during fermentation is crucial, especially for lager. As for "maturing", usually these recipes call for bottling the beer to carbonate in the bottle. This process can take anywhere from 1 to 2 weeks and could be considered as maturing. However, the longer you allow it to mature may smooth out the hop bitterness and mellows it out a little. This can take about 4 to 6 weeks and depends on your patience level. Operative word here is patience. If you are kegging, the maturation period may be shortened by force carbonating which can take 1 to 3 days. Not allowing the beer to mature will often come off as a little sharp but time will eventually mellow it out. Cheers...
Thank you so much for your quick reply and the well wishes. Someone else who I also asked about this said that the instructions on the recipe to mature for a period of 2 to 3 weeks at 5 deg C (41 deg F) means to do this pre-bottling. You would then need to prime the beer and then transfer to bottles that then need to be kept at room temperature for a further 3 weeks. Does that seem correct, it seems like a long time to take around 7 weeks in total for it to be ready to drink? Sorry for the questions
If your bottling this IPA then longer times in the fermenter will do it justice. If I were you I'd brew it , pitch at the lower side of yeast temp and keep it there for 3 to 5 days . Then let it come to room temp . Leave it for a minimum of 2 weeks but preferably 3 weeks in the fermenter . Whichever you choose 3 to 5 days out from that time add your dry hops. Then after 3 to 5 days of DH package to your bottles / priming sugar and leave at room temp (70*) for 2 to 3 weeks . At 2 weeks take one and pit it in the fridge for a day then pop and see how your carbination is.
Again, thanks very much and just one last question...promise...ok 2 last questions
When you say leave it for a minimum of 2 but preferably 3 weeks what would be your thoughts on transferring to a 2nd fermenter after fermentation has stopped and also what temperature to leave it for the 2-3 weeks. At like 5 deg (41 def F) or at room temp? Again thanks loads for the replies here.
Stay away from secondaries as much as possible. Theres no benefit unless your conditioning for a long time. Ales I typically ferment at about 66 then I let come up to 70 at the tail end . Always go off of yeast recommendations.
Thanks!
Welcome to HBT and your homebrewing journey!
Kit recipe instructions can be a toss up, they want to keep it simple, but in that effort they often omit valuable information, or even steps. There's a bit more to it than 1-2-3 as you're discovering. And there are different methods, approaches.
As others said, it's a good idea to keep the beer in your fermenter at (low) room temps around 20-23C for the beer to condition out, while giving it time for most of the yeast to flocculate out, giving you clearer beer.
With hoppy beers, such as IPAs, timing can be more sensitive, as they are typically infused with dry hops those few days before packaging (bottling or kegging). The manufacturer didn't supply dry hops, which they should have to call it an IPA, or change the kettle additions and leave some of those hops out to be used for dry hopping.
But maybe you can add them yourself. Or next time.
What is essential, is leaving the lid on your fermenter, there's no need to remove it until after packaging and you're ready to clean it. Keeping air away from your beer is important as the oxygen will slowly oxidize it.
Will you be using the spigot later to bottle the beer?
Kit recipe instructions can be a toss up, they want to keep it simple, but in that effort they often omit valuable information, or even steps. There's a bit more to it than 1-2-3 as you're discovering. And there are different methods, approaches.
As others said, it's a good idea to keep the beer in your fermenter at (low) room temps around 20-23C for the beer to condition out, while giving it time for most of the yeast to flocculate out, giving you clearer beer.
Which sadly are missing from this recipe...
With hoppy beers, such as IPAs, timing can be more sensitive, as they are typically infused with dry hops those few days before packaging (bottling or kegging). The manufacturer didn't supply dry hops, which they should have to call it an IPA, or change the kettle additions and leave some of those hops out to be used for dry hopping.
But maybe you can add them yourself. Or next time.
What is essential, is leaving the lid on your fermenter, there's no need to remove it until after packaging and you're ready to clean it. Keeping air away from your beer is important as the oxygen will slowly oxidize it.
Will you be using the spigot later to bottle the beer?
Yes, it is my intention to use the spigot for bottling, what should I be wary of? Also is glucose OK for priming the post-fermented beer and should I do the priming a couple of days before bottling or is the same day OK?
VikeMan
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Glucose, aka corn sugar/dextrose is fine for bottle priming. No, you shouldn't prime a couple days before bottling, because the CO2 made from the sugars will off gas, and won't end up in your bottles. You should prime at bottling time (not just the same day).
Corn sugar is actually dextrose, a single sugar, somewhat similar to glucose. You can use glucose, dextrose, table sugar (sucrose) or even DME in some cases. DME takes longer to carbonate.
You need to prime right before bottling.
That spigot needs to be cleaned and sanitized well before opening it. Use a small washcloth and/or spray bottle. Spray sanitizer (Starsan) into the spout, liberally.
Are you bottling straight from the spout, not using a separate bottling bucket? In that case you need to prime each bottle separately... and accurately. There are a few methods for that too.
VikeMan
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Dextrose = D-Glucose
L-Glucose is similar (i.e. an isomer), but you can't really get L-Glucose. Certainly not at the LHBS.
thanks!
