Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

[ifrit2050]

The vinyl tube rated to 30 psi, at the store on the display it showed 60 psi...damn. I have already use this kind of tube on my water filter with no issues, yet...

I will give it a try, if it burst I will go for reinforced vinyl (200 psi).

Thanks for the comments.

 

[ifrit2050]

If I don't all open the water supply that will help or not?

I also have this under the hand, maybe better?

 

[cbier60]

If I don't all open the water supply that will help or not?

I also have this under the hand, maybe better?

It is difficult to reduce your pressure by closing down the valve on the water supply. That reinforced hose should definitely work, but it looks like you would need several fittings to make it work. It would probably be easier and cheaper to buy some reinforced hose (or if the piece on your outtake is long enough, just to swap them).

 

[ifrit2050]

Thanks, you confirm what I thought. It give me two options depending what I found at the hardware store. At the start, I never considered the high pressure tube before I seen a setup in the topic after the post of Brundog.

 

[ifrit2050]

So, reports of my test today, not very good. The sprayer and the height in the tube was good, but the water at the output was cold. The problem didn't come from the steam condenser (I think) but from the lid. The Unibrau (standard edition) came with a lid for the grain basket, this lid is oversized for the kettle. I try to leave the lid on the kettle but the steam leak out. I wrap the lid in a towel, no change the steam leak from the top. I want to buy the right lid for the kettle (sold separately), sold out and out of stock from several weeks, months.



I don't know if I can find compatible lid, any tips or advices?

 

[cbier60]

I don't know anything about your poor lid fit, but a short term workaround may be adding a layer of plastic wrap under the lid to improve the seal.

 

[marc1]

I don't know anything about your poor lid fit, but a short term workaround may be adding a layer of plastic wrap under the lid to improve the seal.

Or cut some silicone tubing lengthwise and put it over the lip.

 

[ifrit2050]

Or cut some silicone tubing lengthwise and put it over the lip.

Good idea, I will put tubing directly on the kettle for a better seal.

 

[BrunDog]

The condenser should creat some vacuum through both its Venturi effect and the conversion of vapor to liquid. Sounds like that’s not happening.

Regarding the water feed, I’d recommend a 1/4” poly tube with push-in quick disconnect fittings. Remember we are using about 10 gals per hour - this tubing can flow at least a gallon per minute. Bobby’s kit uses same. Easier to find fittings for these at hardware stores, too if you source your own.

 

[ifrit2050]

I thought that the 1/4 ice maker tubing supply will do the same thing that the poly tubing, size are near. It doesn't have the push fitting in stock at near store. I will try to make a better seal with silicone tubing, I have 3/8 at home. If it doesn't work, I will order the push connector.

In the other way, peoples modulate the power or the elements to not have a too vigorous boil. I don't have a PID but an ETC controller, so I can't modulate. When I test the condenser my 1650w element was at full power. Can be my problem came from here?

 

[ifrit2050]

Little update from my condenser, it seem to work. The controller temps stay around 210F and the water temps output around 140F. No steam around the lid but drip a little between the silicone tube and the lid. I think the problem is comming from bad lid seal and the exhaust tube height too low. The 3/8ID tube is maybe too big to stay right in place, 1/ or 3/16 will be a better choice. It a temporary solution the time I flhave the right lid.


It drip a little inside the tube from the fitting, not really a problem, but a little too from the water in elbow. Teflon tape doesn't be enough, I will try paste.

 

[marc1]

I thought that the 1/4 ice maker tubing supply will do the same thing that the poly tubing, size are near. It doesn't have the push fitting in stock at near store. I will try to make a better seal with silicone tubing, I have 3/8 at home. If it doesn't work, I will order the push connector.

In the other way, peoples modulate the power or the elements to not have a too vigorous boil. I don't have a PID but an ETC controller, so I can't modulate. When I test the condenser my 1650w element was at full power. Can be my problem came from here?

I don't have a PID either. I'm not sure what an ETC is.

I use the Still Dragon DIY controller that just modulates the power output:
https://stilldragon.com/diy-controller-kit.html

 

[doug293cz]

I don't have a PID either. I'm not sure what an ETC is.

I use the Still Dragon DIY controller that just modulates the power output:
https://stilldragon.com/diy-controller-kit.html

I would guess ETC is electronic temperature controller, like an InkBird ITC-308, or similar. On/off cycle times much longer than PIDs use for power modulation, and built in temperature hysteresis band.

Brew on

 

[RenaudP]

I’m in the process of building a eHerms that’s going to be on a rolling kart so I can brew near the kitchen and store it under the staircase. Going back and forth between a diy hood vent that would connect to my range hood exhaust duct and allow me to assemble and deassemble it between brews or a steam condenser.
I honestly thinks the condenser would be simpler.

My vessels are 3 15g kegs (legally acquired). I want to go with a plate chiller condenser and recirculate cold water.

I can’t make up my mind between a side assembly or a lid one. (See pic)
My kettles are upside down to use the Sankey opening as a drain so I would have to add a weldless TC in both scenarios.

Any thoughts or comments are welcome.

 

[crane]

If you can afford the loss of volume go for the side. It will be easier to take the lid off to add hops and you don't have to worry about any counter weight with the condenser hanging off the side of the lid.

 

[RocketBrewer]

If you can afford the loss of volume go for the side. It will be easier to take the lid off to add hops and you don't have to worry about any counter weight with the condenser hanging off the side of the lid.

+1 on this. mounting on a lid will make things much more awkward. I use 2 different brew systems, one is mounted on the lid (not enough room to mount in the side), one is mounted on the side (also a keggle). Much easier on the side!

 

[Deric]

If you're doing 10 gallon batches it may not be feasible to mount it in the side.

My 3v system uses 15 gallon Spike kettles for 10 gallon batches. Our initial boil volume is between 12.5 and 14.25 gallons. No way we could side mount a steam condenser. On this system we brew in an open garage so no condenser needed.

I have a 10 gallon BIAB setup too - 5 gallon batches in a 10 gallon pot. On this system I have a Steam Slayer mounted in the lid (once again... a bigger kettle would be preferred but it's what I had on hand) and while it may not be ideal I find it's not much of a hassle.

 

[alkatraz002]

Love this idea! It's giving me a lot of hope for an indoor brewing setup

 

[DevilsCups]

I don't know if I can find compatible lid, any tips or advices?

So sorry to reply to this so late, but - The SS Brewtech lid works perfect on the Unibrau kettle (which I suspect is actually just a rebranded SS Brewtech kettle!). Replacement Kettle Lids

 

[ifrit2050]

Thank, it good to know. It would a good solution.

 

[DevilsCups]

Thank, it good to know. It would a good solution.

No worries. I actually use the SS one now with my Brau kettle. Rolled the dice and it worked out.

 

[ifrit2050]

For the moment I use a 1/4 silicone tube and it work well. Of course a lid is better.

 

[ifrit2050]

The only problem is SS brewtech only ship to the US, where I'm not. I will ask my reseller.

 

[chiefwigms]

I've been debating this for the past few years.. anyone have a ball park on what it cost DIY these days?

 

[tracer bullet]

$150?

The Brew Hardware version is tough to beat for price. I went DIY because I was able to get a bunch of the piping from work for free (a vacuum chamber being scrapped out). Otherwise if I ordered it all I don't think I could have done any better for cost.

 

[chiefwigms]

$150?

The Brew Hardware version is tough to beat for price. I went DIY because I was able to get a bunch of the piping from work for free (a vacuum chamber being scrapped out). Otherwise if I ordered it all I don't think I could have done any better for cost.

Yeah - saw that.. was just seeing if $150 was high for diy

 

[NewfieJeeper]

I just installed the brew hardware kit. I’m in Canada so by the time it arrives with exchange and shipping it was quite a bit more expensive. That said. I’m very happy to have bought it and would do it again over diy. I’ve diy’d a lot of my system but liked this kit. Good quality and complete. Also bought the hole saw and a couple T-shirt’s. why not!

 

[jdudek]

this is what it cost me, about a year ago.

 

[McMullan]

Mine came in under $100, but I had a few spare TC clamps and fittings, hole punch, etc. I thought a ready-made ‘slayer’ was very reasonably priced, but I live in ripoff Norway, where they can make stones bleed.

 

[fragged]

this is what it cost me, about a year ago.
View attachment 766019

Yep, that's pretty on point for mine. Mine comes out of the lid vs. the pot so that I could still do 10 gallon BIAB batches, so another $20 or so for a TC elbow and a I used a flat solder TC flange since the lid is closer to "flat". An absolute no brainer modification though, I'd spend 2x that to have it, if that's what it cost. I spent a lot more than that fixing the plaster and paint that bubbled in the room above the basement where I brew...

 

[SFC Rudy]

I dicked around with this for awhile then finally closed my eyes and bought one. It's worth every penny.

 

[McMullan]

You lot are such a bad influence. With supply chain issues and two orders cancelled by sellers, the last pieces finally arrived last Friday. Think it's been over 2 months since I ordered the stuff. So I cancelled the weekend brew day and plucked up the courage - after a couple home brews - then, with eyes shut, fingers crossed and hoping for the best, punched another hole in my Braumeister.

I sealed things by fitting a silicone bung in the top of the steam lid.

Testing with a half batch water, seems setting temperature to 99°C works best to get a nice gentle simmer without any steam escaping. I was expecting the discharge water to be hot, but it was only about 1.5°C warmer than the cold tap water going in. Next test is going to be a half batch wort. Looking forward to being able to brew with the window shut during winter. If it works well enough I might even set up a permanent brewing space in the basement.

 

[rkhanso]

@McMullan - you should get hotter discharge water than that. If it's not near hand-burning hot, I don't think it's working correctly.
When my steam condenser is running, the discharge water is too hot to hold your hand under.

 

[McMullan]

@McMullan - you should get hotter discharge water than that. If it's not near hand-burning hot, I don't think it's working correctly.
When my steam condenser is running, the discharge water is too hot to hold your hand under.

Cold tap water here is currently about 7°C. Not sure if that makes much difference. Whe I turn it off steam escapes from the kettle. Water sprayer/atomiser us about 1.3L/min.

 

[tracer bullet]

@McMullan - Nice looking setup!

I'm sure it's obvious, but I've found that the amount of steam created (which correlates to the power applied), and the spray volume through the condenser go together in the resulting drain water temperature. Low power and high spray = cold runoff, high power and low spray = hot runoff.

You might just have a monstor of a spray nozzle and done a good job with its angle and location. If a rolling, high boil-off power level still results in cold drain water consider backing down the spray nozzle size.

I prefer hot but not scalding water. I don't know if there's really a "best" practice.

 

[McMullan]

I went with a narrow angle nozzle and had to fit a short extension tube to keep the mist from entering the kettle.

It's 1.5" to 2" tubing. It might be overkill for a 20L Braumeister. I'll use the water in garden so not too bothered about the volume used at the moment. I'll try a smaller nozzle at some point, though.

 

[Zenmeister]

@McMullan - you should get hotter discharge water than that. If it's not near hand-burning hot, I don't think it's working correctly.
When my steam condenser is running, the discharge water is too hot to hold your hand under.

Not necessarily true. I've had my steam condenser for over three years now and have run plenty of batches thru it. While the output water is warm, it is nowhere near scalding hot. My beers have never had any issue with off tastes or other bad flavors. I have been running a Spike Trio with Bobby's Steam slayer. Typical ground water is ~ 50 deg F in the Winter and ~62 Deg F in Summer.

 

[tracer bullet]

My sprayer is ~ 9gph, so half or less 1.3 lpm. That doesn't make 1.3lph too much, but - it might be called higher than normal. And by normal it's of course anecdotal, seems people on the board here vary in the 6 - 9 gph range. 1.3 lpm certainly gives a lot of overhead. But overhead may be good.

I'd be concerned about scalding hot coming out. It also may be fine and doing the job but gut feel is that having just warm water gives a little overhead.

 

[Tartan1]

Cold tap water here is currently about 7°C. Not sure if that makes much difference. Whe I turn it off steam escapes from the kettle. Water sprayer/atomiser us about 1.3L/min.

Your flow rate seems a bit high which could explain the cooler temps of the discharge water. My calculations estimate you are outputting approx 21Gal/Hr. I use a 9Gal/Hr spray head and the exit water is very hot to the touch. Just a thought! Sounds like your setup is working fine, your just using more water than might be required.

 

[rkhanso]

Mine runs differently I guess. The discharge water is very hot - I measured it once last year at 175F, but that was only a couple feet after the condenser.
I'm planning a brew in the next week or so and will check it again.