Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

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The last five of the 1.5" bodies were snatched up quick. The 3" body version is still without the cap/sprayer assembly and won't be shipped for at least another week. My factory is still dark due to coronavirus. I have since mocked up the 3" body on my kettle, which doesn't really NEED any more cooling power than the 1.5" body could deliver, but I wanted to see the cooling effect at least with the 6GPH sprayer installed. The effluent temp basically dropped by about 20F with the larger body. That tells me, at least with this limited testing, that you can push a little more power in to achieve a slight increase in boil off or you can possibly get away with a smaller sprayer for the same boil intensity/volume. Overall it is an increase in performance but i'll have to do much more testing to figure out if the increase in cost is worth it.

Lastly, I also bushed the 1.5" TC port between the kettle and slayer down to camlock diameter and noticed a 10F drop in effluent temps which means less steam getting through. In the end it drives your power input max and boil off lower than if the port was larger. How much that fact matters is up to you. I was able to boil 7 gallons at 25% power (this was somewhere between a simmer and boil) without steam leakage at the lid. I ran it up to 35% and did see some steam escape and the boil intensity was a bit much. Contrast that to the 1.5" port which take enough heat away to leave the boil at 35% with no steam escape and a relative normal boil intensity.

This whole thing is quite the delicate balance of heat input and output.
 
Some pics from test runs. You can see I had to adapt the 3 inch down to the 1.5 sprayer cap
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I'd buy it as is if I can just get my foot in the door.

The body is important because although I can source parts, the weight will be detrimental to my configuration and I do occasional 40ish gallon batches.
 
I just set up my new condenser from Craft Hardware, mounted to the kettle lid. Ran a test run with water, seemed to be working properly, but I checked the volume after an hour, and it doesn't look like I lost any water to boil off. I'm worried the steam isn't escaping properly. I'm new to boil condensing, so maybe I'm missing something obvious. I was at about 60% power on the heating element, maintaining a light roll/ simmer at 212. Water supply is fed from the garden faucet. I don't know the exact pressure, but I am guessing (based on averages) anywhere from 40-50 psi. Tubing connected to the condenser is 1/4" ID. Flow out of the spray nozzle looked nice and high. Are there some other factors I should look into to troubleshoot this?
 

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I am assuming the effluent is the exiting water, right? It is cold. Steam only escapes the edges of the lid right after I open and close back up, but only a tiny amount, and after 5 minutes there is zero steam escaping the lid. I assumed it was just collecting on the walls and falling back in, but maybe I’m wrong
 
Water supply is fed from the garden faucet. I don't know the exact pressure, but I am guessing (based on averages) anywhere from 40-50 psi. Tubing connected to the condenser is 1/4" ID. Flow out of the spray nozzle looked nice and high. Are there some other factors I should look into to troubleshoot this?
If you're boiling, and the condenser is underpowered, the steam will create enough pressure to escape through the lid. If you're just testing with water I would run the element at 100% and check the effluent temp and look for steam escaping. Depending on your inlet water temp and heating power the effluent might not be super hot but it should be warm.
Water pressure and tube size sound OK, you can always check it against the specifications of the nozzle, at 45 PSI it emits 8 GPH.

Edit: just making sure... did you measure kettle volume after one hour while water is still hot? Let it cool first or compensate for the higher temperature.
 
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I am assuming the effluent is the exiting water, right? It is cold. Steam only escapes the edges of the lid right after I open and close back up, but only a tiny amount, and after 5 minutes there is zero steam escaping the lid. I assumed it was just collecting on the walls and falling back in, but maybe I’m wrong
If your water pressure /sprayer is set too high, then the effluent /exiting water won’t be hot. If this is the case and you don’t have steam coming out then turn down your sprayer/inlet. Then the exiting water will heat up and you waste less water this way.
 
It will be much warmer than the spray water alone, unless you have an absolute river of it. You do not want to "turn it down" - the sprayers are much more efficient (atomization) at higher pressures. If your sprayer is too much volume, you need a lower rated one.
 
I reached out to Douglas from Craft Hardware who manufactures the condenser I have. We did some troubleshooting and discovered it was my outlet hose. I had to extend it to reach my sink, but I had a bit too much length, so it was coiled up a couple times. When the water inevitably collected in the looped portion of the hose, it blocked off the airway through the hose, which is crucial to the condenser's operation. I shortened the hose so that the water would run right out and it is working perfectly now!
 
Placed my order this morning. For once, Bobby had everything I wanted to order in stock at the same time.

Kudos for sacrificing yourself against the coronavirus so we could brew better beer!
 
Would this be overkill for a 10.5 Foundry? I am waiting for the 1.5" to come back in stock, but now that this is available I was curious.

I don't think it's functionally overkill at all. The spray body is larger but it's fine to run a 6gph sprayer. I know that to use the lid you'll need an elbow and spool to get out over the edge and that is a lot of cantilevered weight off the thin lid. I could weld a small support onto the outward-most TC clamp that would rest on the edge of the lid. I would be more inclined to suggest welding a 1.5" TC into the upper sidewall to make it much easier and compact.
 
I don't think it's functionally overkill at all. The spray body is larger but it's fine to run a 6gph sprayer. I know that to use the lid you'll need an elbow and spool to get out over the edge and that is a lot of cantilevered weight off the thin lid. I could weld a small support onto the outward-most TC clamp that would rest on the edge of the lid. I would be more inclined to suggest welding a 1.5" TC into the upper sidewall to make it much easier and compact.
I came across a thread from a while back with this photo of a modified Foundry lid
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Is this what you were suggesting for the lid option. With the connection in the center the spool could either go before the elbow or after....to keep it above the hump or off the side of the kettle. Then the lid clamps should secure the lid down unless your suggesting that the thin material and cantilevered weight could cause issues.
 
Ordered. Thanks for risking, hopefully the virus isn't hanging out on a piece of stainless. Do you think the condensate will have wort in it? I was thinking of pumping the condensate back into my MLT. Grant
 
Ordered. Thanks for risking, hopefully the virus isn't hanging out on a piece of stainless. Do you think the condensate will have wort in it? I was thinking of pumping the condensate back into my MLT. Grant
Condensate will not have any wort (or extract/sugar.) Only water and volatile compounds from the wort, DMS being one of the major contaminants in the condensate. If the condensate outlet temp is more than about 100°F, then most of the DMS will escape to the air at the condenser outlet (and it smells bad.)

Brew on :mug:
 
Ordered. Thanks for risking, hopefully the virus isn't hanging out on a piece of stainless. Do you think the condensate will have wort in it? I was thinking of pumping the condensate back into my MLT. Grant
:off:The normal flu virus will live on a hard, non-porous surface longer than anywhere else, but it is still no more than 24 hours. The Corona virus can be viable up to 9 days later at normal temps and up to 28 days later under 39F. Break out your iodopher.

https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/ar...n-surfaces#How-long-do-coronaviruses-persist?
 
Hey guys. I just wanted to say “thanks” for posting this information. I was about to get kicked out of the upstairs apartment because of water damage to the “unfinished” ceiling from brewing beer. I haven’t fully read the entire thread but I started making a solution to the steam problem based on your info. I’m getting the steam from the lid rather than the kettle wall. I hope this won’t be an issue. I welded a 4 inch ferrule under the center ferrule to attach a hop bag. Thanks again .
 

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I just received Bobby's Steam Slayer. Where are you folks installing these? I have a 20 gallon kettle electric brewery with the brew kettle all the way to the left. I am thinking about installing the slayer in the back left 45 degrees to the left of center to minimize footprint. Obviously it needs to be mounted as high as possible, but I not sure if it should be on the back or front of the kettle.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I've seen it installed just about everywhere around the top edge of kettle. On my system, I have it on the right side, 45 degrees towards the back or at the 2 o'clock position because that's where my water source and drain are. If you're collecting in a bucket, put it wherever the waste hose will have the most straight shot into the bucket.
 
I put mine on the lid with a 90 degree elbow.

Are you happy with it there? Did you do that to increase boil volume or to drill fewer holes in your kettle?

I kind of figured that having it lid-mounted would be a pain since it is so heavy. I guess you need to take it apart and clean it after your brewday anyway?

Having a TC port in my lid could also give me an option of CIP as well.

Chris
 
Are you happy with it there? Did you do that to increase boil volume or to drill fewer holes in your kettle?

I kind of figured that having it lid-mounted would be a pain since it is so heavy. I guess you need to take it apart and clean it after your brewday anyway?

Having a TC port in my lid could also give me an option of CIP as well.

Chris

It's fine there. It doesn't sit plumb since the lid is slightly domed and that bothers my OCD.

Yes, I did it for boil volume, although as it turns out, it wasn't necessary. I'm using a 10 gallon pot and I'm boiling off a lot less than I did with propane so I would have had enough room.
 
I put mine on the lid with a 90 degree elbow.
Did you also use a spool off of your 90 elbow?
I keep chasing my tail on parts from BH... all of the fittings i need will be in, but the steam slayer will be out of stock and once the steam slayer is available the rest of my parts are out of stock. I might just have to bite the bullet and buy things as they become available.
 
Did you also use a spool off of your 90 elbow?
I keep chasing my tail on parts from BH... all of the fittings i need will be in, but the steam slayer will be out of stock and once the steam slayer is available the rest of my parts are out of stock. I might just have to bite the bullet and buy things as they become available.

I'm sorry about that. It's really hard to keep everything in stock when people are brewing like it's the end times.
 
Did you also use a spool off of your 90 elbow?
I keep chasing my tail on parts from BH... all of the fittings i need will be in, but the steam slayer will be out of stock and once the steam slayer is available the rest of my parts are out of stock. I might just have to bite the bullet and buy things as they become available.

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Thoughts and prayers ;)
But if I had a drain within reach I'd jump on that...

Cheers! :mug:


You really don’t need a drain within reach. You would go through 5-10 gal of waste water per hour. It’s not that hard to run it to 5 gal bucket and dump. I have a drain within reach, but usually i end up just sticking a bucket under it. I use the waste water as an initial rinse for cleaning or to water plants.
 
Hey everybody. I was having a hard time deciding between this option and overhead ventilation. I stumbled on a scratch and dent range hood and went that way... cut through wall and ceiling and out through a roof vent. Long story short.... total disaster. Tons of steam condensing and dripping back into the kettle. Sigh. Now I am looking at this solution. Looks cool My question is, how much steam escapes when you open the lid to add hops and when you need to start cooling?

Thanks all. Love this stuff.
 
Hey everybody. I was having a hard time deciding between this option and overhead ventilation. I stumbled on a scratch and dent range hood and went that way... cut through wall and ceiling and out through a roof vent. Long story short.... total disaster. Tons of steam condensing and dripping back into the kettle. Sigh. Now I am looking at this solution. Looks cool My question is, how much steam escapes when you open the lid to add hops and when you need to start cooling?

Thanks all. Love this stuff.

I use hop bags for my kettle additions. I lay the bag over the edge of the kettle and am still able to get enough of a seal for the condenser to work correctly. When I have to make the addition I placed the hops in the open end of the bag and then lift the lid to let them fall in. Not much steam escapes, at least not enough to cause any kind of condensation in my basement while brewing.

I chill with a plate chiller and recirculate to the top of my kettle with the lid covering most of it and don't have any issues with the steam.
 
Hey everybody. I was having a hard time deciding between this option and overhead ventilation. I stumbled on a scratch and dent range hood and went that way... cut through wall and ceiling and out through a roof vent. Long story short.... total disaster. Tons of steam condensing and dripping back into the kettle. Sigh. Now I am looking at this solution. Looks cool My question is, how much steam escapes when you open the lid to add hops and when you need to start cooling?

Thanks all. Love this stuff.
Certainly not enough to cause any condensation. If you keep your hood and turn it on at these times, you'd hardly know you were brewing. My situation is similar to k-os.
 

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