Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

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Brewbuzzard

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I've never tested this - just a theory. Maybe an aquarium air pump would be enough. You don't change the condenser as you still need it to condense the steam. The additional air will give some room to absorb steam vapor. Not sure what would happen in the condenser due to the additional pressure though.
Actually it seems the small amount of pressure would just be sucked out by the vacuum created by the condenser and like you state increase boil off.
 

BigJay13

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Does the spray nozzle need to be even with the pipe containing the steam? I have a pipe from a rims tube that I wanted to use but the nipple I’m using to connect the water input to the nozzle places the nozzle an inch or so below the opening to the steam pipe.
 

Brewbuzzard

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Does the spray nozzle need to be even with the pipe containing the steam? I have a pipe from a rims tube that I wanted to use but the nipple I’m using to connect the water input to the nozzle places the nozzle an inch or so below the opening to the steam pipe.
This question is better answered by Bobby but I think the nozzle should be placed just below the pipe exiting the kettle.
 

BigJay13

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The spray only needs not to make its way back into the kettle. Ideally, it is as close to the incoming steam as possible, but I think there is plenty of wiggle room.
I’m a good inch below the steam pipe—I’ll put it together and try it out once I get my plumbing in. Worst case is I buy the right parts.
 

jdudek

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I put together a steam condenser from parts, more or less as suggested at the beginning of this thread by brundog.

details:

9GPH sprayer (at 40 PSI), the well pump is set to 60 PSI, not sure what it is at the washer outlet, but must be at least 40 PSI I would think.
Sprayer tip is below the inlet hole.
Water temp is around 50F.
I used an instrument T (1.5") from brewhardware for the "chamber".
I am testing with 4 gallons of water in a 11 gallon kettle (so considerable amount of empty space)

Maybe this is a silly question but how do I know this is working properly. I don't see steam coming out anywhere. When the water is off to the sprayer, I see a bit of steam coming out the bottom of the condenser chamber (I removed the runoff barb/hose for now, it's just coming out of the 1.5" Tee bottom)

The main thing that's making me suspicious is that the runoff from the condenser is not very hot. Lukewarm.. 90-100F. I seem to remember reading online about runoff temps around 150 or more...

appreciate any thoughts, feedback.

thanks
 

Spartan1979

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I put together a steam condenser from parts, more or less as suggested at the beginning of this thread by brundog.

details:

9GPH sprayer (at 40 PSI), the well pump is set to 60 PSI, not sure what it is at the washer outlet, but must be at least 40 PSI I would think.
Sprayer tip is below the inlet hole.
Water temp is around 50F.
I used an instrument T (1.5") from brewhardware for the "chamber".
I am testing with 4 gallons of water in a 11 gallon kettle (so considerable amount of empty space)

Maybe this is a silly question but how do I know this is working properly. I don't see steam coming out anywhere. When the water is off to the sprayer, I see a bit of steam coming out the bottom of the condenser chamber (I removed the runoff barb/hose for now, it's just coming out of the 1.5" Tee bottom)

The main thing that's making me suspicious is that the runoff from the condenser is not very hot. Lukewarm.. 90-100F. I seem to remember reading online about runoff temps around 150 or more...

appreciate any thoughts, feedback.

thanks
If your wastewater is around 100 and your water temperature is 50, that heat has to be coming from somewhere, right?

My wastewater temp isn't much higher than yours, but that's fine with me. Water conservation isn't a big issue here and the cost of the water is less than a quarter per batch. I figure I'm actually using about 16 gph with the 9 gph nozzle, so I would expect the temp to be something less than what others might be getting. If you were using a 6 gph nozzle, you would see a higher temp in the wastewater.
 

DuncB

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Seems about the right temp to me too. If the water is coming out hot and or steam as well then the flow or spray pattern isn't enough and it's not doing its' job.
I think you are good with this. Some people are recirculating the water using a pump so this will get hotter and less effective with time.

I can save water in other ways to offset my condenser guilt.
 

jdudek

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thanks for the answers, sounds like I am fine. I may try a 6gph nozzle in the future, but we'll see how this one goes on an actual batch.
 

Bobby_M

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If your waste temp is low, it means:
1. You can add more input power to increase boil off rate if you want to.
2. You can reduce the sprayer to the next lowest to save water.
 

jlb307

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since I wasted too much time the last couple days and didn't pull the trigger on one of the last two slayers @Bobby_M had in stock , it looks like I'm gonna DIY this for my Anvil.
I know the typical set-up for the Anvil has been to hang over the side, but has anyone configured it to be higher to get the clearance vs longer to get it over the side?
Not sure if it matters much, but paralysis by analysis has been kinda my thing lately.....hence missing out on one of the last slayers lol
 

DuncB

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jlb307 not sure what you are after but there's my DIY solution at the end of this other thread.

 

jlb307

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jlb307 not sure what you are after but there's my DIY solution at the end of this other thread.

That is an AWESOME set up! I may have to copy that one day.
But what I mean was with the relatively flimsy top that the Anvil comes with, would it be better to have a condenser rig set up higher above the lid for clearance vs extended further out to reduce the cantilever effect on the lid.
 

DuncB

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Not sure how flimsy that Anvil lid is. I have just measured the thickness of my lid and it is 0.75mm and is not flexing with the weight of that condenser in my other photos. The pressed " circles or rings " in the lid do stiffen it up. Used it again yesterday and worked like a dream. You could counterbalance it I suppose to the other side of the lid with a tie of some kind if you thought it was flexing your lid.
 

DuncB

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That looks good, wait to hear how well it works, suggest you put a bigger other hole in the lid for hopping, stirring, peeking as brewbuzzard did on pg 43 or as my picture on my lid. That's the top of a preserving jar, the rubber bit makes a nice seal.
IMG_20210302_090911.jpgIMG_20210302_090917.jpgIMG_20210302_090924.jpg
 

jlb307

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That looks good, wait to hear how well it works, suggest you put a bigger other hole in the lid for hopping, stirring, peeking as brewbuzzard did on pg 43 or as my picture on my lid. That's the top of a preserving jar, the rubber bit makes a nice seal.
View attachment 724757View attachment 724758View attachment 724759
I may do that. I don't know why but I cant find the post you mentioned. Wasn't there a vid too?
And Is yours a Foundry lid?
 

DuncB

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I may do that. I don't know why but I cant find the post you mentioned. Wasn't there a vid too?
And Is yours a Foundry lid?
Whoops page 44 sorry.

The lid is the one that came on my guten 70 litre.

I do have another condenser for the robobrew 35litre, and instead of the glass lid it came with I use the turbo 500 boiler lid ( that I use for heating sparge water) made of stainless steel. It's a direct replacement.
 
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