Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

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Bobby_M said:
Yes closer to 2 weeks last I heard. No need to preorder. We are making 100 units for starters. I have 5 batches logged on it so far and I'll be using going forward. No DMS detected at all.

I did overflow my 6 gallon catch bucket once so I'm looking for a 10 gallon barrel. If you use a small bucket, get into the habit of setting a 30 minute timer.
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Are all the pre-built ones going to be using the 6gph nozzles or will there be an option for 9gph?
 
I tested all three nozzles on the unit I constructed and by far the best was the 9 gph. The 3 and the 6 both underperformed. Water for me is cheap so its not a deal breaker.
 
Dockside_Brewing said:
I tested all three nozzles on the unit I constructed and by far the best was the 9 gph. The 3 and the 6 both underperformed. Water for me is cheap so its not a deal breaker.
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It may differ for others based on the water pressure of the supply as measured at the nozzle.

Bobby, will you let us know when your design is up for sale?
 
Again, as a reminder (and not meaning to hash it to death), keep in mind that every rig will have some differences. It is simple thermodynamics... the heat stored in the steam must be pulled out by the condenser. This requires the appropriate amount of condensing water, and a good environment for them to adequately mix. Saying one sprayer is better than another should be taken as rough guidance - boil rate/power amount, kettle shape, condensing water temperature, condensing water pressure, condenser shape/configuration, sprayer type/shape, etc. will all affect performance.

Kudos to @Dockside_Brewing for testing multiple sprayers on his setup to find that the 9 gph worked best. But everyone should make adjustments for their system.

Here is a quick calculator to help people with sprayer sizing, just based on boil-off rate and spray water temp: https://1drv.ms/x/s!Aos-j8VGwCpJo2SNJbJp5CJ0tLoj
 
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butterblum said:
It may differ for others based on the water pressure of the supply as measured at the nozzle.
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I don't know my water pressure, but it's fairly high; I'd estimate 60-75 psi. I built a 1.5" condenser with the 6 gph nozzle, for my 20G Spike kettle. It has been maybe the best "purchase" I have made. I eBIAB and brew in my basement with a 3.5KW Avantco induction burner. Before using the condenser, I had to add a 1.5KW hot rod heat stick to barely get ~10G to boil. Today I maintained a vigorous boil with 12G wort and only 2.5KW from the induction burner. I have done maybe 5-6 batches with this, including a Czech pilsner and tripel with almost 100% pilsner malt. No diacetyl, no problems, very little steam, and only moderate waste water. Thanks again, Brundog. And as you said, YMMV. Many brewers will not require a 9 gph nozzle.
 
I've had no boil overs with this. I believe the pressure reduces the foaming. I have just started pressure fermenting and see the same effect with suppression of Krausen. The only "boil over" I had was when I swapped the dump bucket and forgot to turn the nozzle water back on. I didn't have a boil over because I have a lot of headroom, but I had hop matter all over the top of the kettle. Luckily, I realized my screw-up after ~10 minutes.
 
^^ This! Everyone should use fermcap. Would you leave your house without pants? No, in the same way you shouldn't brew without fermcap.

Seriously though... I use it for my starters... and boil 1600ml in a 2l flash on the gas stove - never a boil over. I use it in my BK - never even a worry. And it has no impact on the finished beer. Get you some! (no affiliation, trust me - I don't even know who makes it!)
 
I never use it anymore. Have the product, just not the need.
Plus "Water, Malt, Hops, Yeast & Fermcap S" just doesn't have the same ring.
 
BrunDog said:
Good point, but get a proper boil-over and you might reconsider.

I do wonder if the side mounted condenser would squash a legit boil-over though. Someone pls report back if they have any experience.
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Oh it will still boil over with the side condenser. With the Ferm cap its never an issue and I get a very rigorous boil.
 
One of these days when I grow up... I’m going electric and indoors. I’ll be sure to incorporate this in my build. 2 questions.
1. Would a sight window (like distillers use) just steam up and be useless? It would add a little counterweight.
2. I’m assuming the is nothing in the waste water that would harmful to plants? I can’t imagine there would be. They don’t like good beer anyway.
Thanks for sharing a great piece.
 
Thanks. My premise is... throw out a bad idea, it might inspire a good one.
Thanks again for the lack of headache figuring out my future ventilation.
 
I'm kind of leaning towards a somewhat sealed lid with a hinge for adding hops and taking samples, still trying to figure out how to hinge that and not have steam leaks any idea's, this is just one example of my idea, it’s not going to be this big

bk90tw_ti_sg_800_03_01_996.jpg
 
I'd like to go electric and would definitely add this mod. Could I repurpose my Barbour International 44qt SST pot previously used to boil crawfish for this or would there be some off flavor due to seasoning?
 
I'm just chiming in to say thanks to BrunDog for this awesome idea, and to Bobby for working up something for us to buy. Following as I'd love to get one once Bobby has them available. Would love to be able to brew without pointing my fan over my kettle and keeping the garage door open.
 
Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
I'm kind of leaning towards a somewhat sealed lid with a hinge for adding hops and taking samples, still trying to figure out how to hinge that and not have steam leaks any idea's, this is just one example of my idea, it’s not going to be this big

View attachment 582729
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Maybe something like those counter weighted flapper thingies that keep rainwater out of a tractor's exhaust? No idea what they are called or if you can get them in stainless. With sufficient weight and a silicone gasket I think it would seal well enough. You could also use it to check boil vigor or take samples.

Edit: just google exhaust rain caps. Available in 304 stainless, 2" to 6-5/8". Very spendy, though.
 
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Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
I thought about cutting silicone hose and gluing it to the inside of the hinge, I really don't know what glue would work or be strong enough over time, then a tri-clamp portal will work but those can be expensive

https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp-fittings-tank-weld-ferrules-14mpw-g600.html
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Wish I had a pencil and a napkin, it just ain't the same on a phone. Here goes. Two pieces of sheet metal, edge to edge. On top, a piano hinge. On bottom, another strip of sheet metal, attached to one side only. As the hinge opens, the seal strip falls away, as hinge closes, gap is re-sealed. It won't be hermetic, but we're not dealing with 600 psig steam, after all. The condenser will be pulling a slight vacuum, so leakage will be in through the hinge and out with the condensate. I think.

By lubing one side, and applying silicone sealant to the other, you could form a gasket in place. No idea how it would hold up over time.
 
05A2BB39-849B-4BC9-8BE5-E6A8809E7853.jpeg

Just thinking... I know, I’m in trouble. This is my keggle, I’m boiling a porter. On propane :-( anyway, if I get another keg, cut the lid the same way, a 2” tc could go right on top. Minus the handle. With a silicone tube gasket, the cut out lid should work? This keggle could then be used for hlt.
 
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mongoose33 said:
No, because the generation of steam creates a positive pressure. Think of it this way: how does a steam kettle work? Water boils, and steam comes out of the small hole in the spout.
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Yes like a pressure cooker. So is it true a closed system works better than one with an small opening to add hops? Thanks
 
Brewbuzzard said:
Yes like a pressure cooker. So is it true a closed system works better than one with an small opening to add hops? Thanks
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All we're talking about here is a place for most of the steam to exit the kettle and then go through a tube where a spray of water cools it and condenses it. It doesn't need to be perfectly sealed and you can simply lift the kettle lid to add hops if and as when.

I'm going to buy Bobby's system when he gets it in. I'm having a TC port added to the top of my kettle to which I can attach Bobby's condenser. I'm just going to use a standard lid on my kettle, and when the time comes to add hops, I'll lift the lid, add the hops, use a little water from a spray bottle to cool it back down, then put the lid back on.

I expect the vast majority of the steam will be condensed. I'll put a weight on the lid to hold it square and flat, and I expect that to limit other exits for the steam. I don't need it to be perfect, just 90 or 95 percent perfect. If I want even better sealing, I'll find some sort of gasket to stretch around the lid to seal better, but I doubt I'll need that.
 
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I'm going to add this here as a possibility for anyone who wants to actually create a seal with the lid, and as an extension to what I replied to @Brewbuzzard above.

The lid to my Spike kettle has a flange that holds it from falling into the kettle. I think most lids are like this. Pic: https://spikebrewing.com/collection...s/10-gallon-brew-kettle-2-horizontal-couplers

I went looking for a large o-ring that I could stretch over the part of the lid that extends down into the kettle, found this:

https://www.grainger.com/category/o-rings/o-rings-and-o-ring-kits/hardware/ecatalog/N-mg7

If you look down the page at Dash Number 456, you'll find a silicone O-ring with a 13.475" ID. My kettle's nominal diameter is 13.7" so this would appear to be sized to stretch slightly over the ridge of the lid and seal against the kettle mouth.

I need to do a little further measuring, but I'll probably get one or two of these to test with. They would appear to fit the bill as to something that would let us seal a lid to a kettle mouth, albeit with using some sort of weight on top to hold it down.
 
mongoose33 said:
All we're talking about here is a place for most of the steam to exit the kettle and then go through a tube where a spray of water cools it and condenses it. It doesn't need to be perfectly sealed and you can simply lift the kettle lid to add hops if and as when.

I'm going to buy Bobby's system when he gets it in. I'm having a TC port added to the top of my kettle to which I can attach Bobby's condenser. I'm just going to use a standard lid on my kettle, and when the time comes to add hops, I'll lift the lid, add the hops, use a little water from a spray bottle to cool it back down, then put the lid back on.

I expect the vast majority of the steam will be condensed. I'll put a weight on the lid to hold it square and flat, and I expect that to limit other exits for the steam. I don't need it to be perfect, just 90 or 95 percent perfect. If I want even better sealing, I'll find some sort of gasket to stretch around the lid to seal better, but I doubt I'll need that.
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Thanks for the info Mongoose. I'll check Bobby's out too. I have a lot of his parts in my brewery. Great stuff!
 
Mine is out of the lid and I don't have any steam leakage. The weight of the parts keeps its sealed. Although I don't have a hinge. I just lift the lid to check boil and add hops. I thought of a hinge and/or another port for that purpose but saw nothing out there and adding another port was just too costly for what it was accomplishing.

Link to my build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...11-gallon-bayou-classic-with-boilcoil.643196/
 
mongoose33 said:
The lid to my Spike kettle has a flange that holds it from falling into the kettle. I think most lids are like this.
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BrunDog said:
I think you will find you don’t need to make a seal with the lid. I would actually argue that it might inhibit the natural convection in case some intake air is needed for pressure balance.
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ingchr1 said:
Mine is out of the lid and I don't have any steam leakage.
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I agree with BrunDog and have the same experience as ingchr1 with mine out the side of my 20G Spike kettle. The inherent vacuum holds my Spike lid on fine.
 

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