BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

[uabericm]

I bought a couple of these instead...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

How well did this set up work?

 

[The Pol]

The Blichmans are finished... scary drilling all those holes!

The end product:

 

[yellow]

I built a control box following what The Pol did (at least I hope). I plugged in the control box today and tested with a voltmeter. All power goes where it should when the switches are flipped. The main 240V/30A power cord has GFI in it - does not trigger when just the box is plugged in. I think that is all good

Now, somehow I ordered the wrong thermocouple. So I have the element in the keg and wired to the two hots, but the neutral and ground are not hooked up from the 10-3 wire that comes from heating element to control box. So I have the two pole switch off so that no power will be going to the element yet. AS SOON AS I PLUG IN THE HEATING ELEMENT THE GFI POPS!!!!!

What would cause this?

 

[diatonic]

Hey Pol, the Blichmann looks sweet. I'm doing a very similar HLT (albeit very ghetto) for my new single-tier HERMS system. This will be my new HLT (just got it from the welder this weekend).

 

[klyph]

Where did you get that lid?

 

[diatonic]

It's just the aluminum lid from a turkey fryer. I always cut 12" holes in the tops of my kettles, and 12" lids are easy to find in houseware isles :^)

 

[klyph]

Ah, good plan.

 

[uabericm]

The Blichmans are finished... scary drilling all those holes!

Blichmans look great. When do we get a description of what is going on inside the pots?

 

[The Pol]

Blichmans look great. When do we get a description of what is going on inside the pots?

(2) 4500W heating elements

(1) 50' SS chiller, mounted on TriClamps

(1) recirculating arm for cooling

That is about it, this is the BK

 

[yellow]

So I figured you guys would ask a bunch of questions and I wanted to check a few things out to make sure I posted accurately.

Right now I have everything set up as a 4 wire and have a pigtail on the end to go to my current apt's 3 wire stove outlet. I ran the 4th wire (ground from the pig tale and clamped on some conduit. On the BK the Neutral (white) and Ground (green) are not connected, but when they both touch the BK the GFI POPS. If only one of them is touching, it is good. I then disconnected the Clamped ground and tried it - with both touching the BK nothing popped.

The GFI only pops if the 4th wire is grounded and both the neutral and the ground are connected to the BK. So my question is how do you hook both up to the BK? Not sure what is going on. (kept ground and neutral separate throughout system).

 

[yellow]

(1) 50' SS chiller, mounted on TriClamps

Where did you get the SS?

 

[Hermit]

I built a control box following what The Pol did (at least I hope). I plugged in the control box today and tested with a voltmeter. All power goes where it should when the switches are flipped. The main 240V/30A power cord has GFI in it - does not trigger when just the box is plugged in. I think that is all good

Now, somehow I ordered the wrong thermocouple. So I have the element in the keg and wired to the two hots, but the neutral and ground are not hooked up from the 10-3 wire that comes from heating element to control box. So I have the two pole switch off so that no power will be going to the element yet. AS SOON AS I PLUG IN THE HEATING ELEMENT THE GFI POPS!!!!!

What would cause this?

Not wanting to get nailed by the nanny state, I've kind of held my tongue on GFI's for these units since no one was reporting problems. As an appliance repairman, I learned to hate these things with a passion. I've seen brand new appliances plugged into them and they'd pop. I'd get bitched at left and right because when I plugged the appliance into a regular socket, they worked just fine. "Well, there MUST be something wrong with the applaince....."

 

[yellow]

Not wanting to get nailed by the nanny state, I've kind of held my tongue on GFI's for these units since no one was reporting problems. As an appliance repairman, I learned to hate these things with a passion. I've seen brand new appliances plugged into them and they'd pop. I'd get bitched at left and right because when I plugged the appliance into a regular socket, they worked just fine. "Well, there MUST be something wrong with the applaince....."

Any suggestions? Not sure if you saw the last post about it only popping when the Neutral and Ground are connected at the BK.

 

[The Pol]

Where did you get the SS?

Midwest Supplies

The BK build was $920

 

[yellow]

Midwest Supplies

The BK build was $920

Looking to build a jockey box. Only saw the SS wort chillers at midwest. Did you cannibalize one of those?

 

[The Pol]

Looking to build a jockey box. Only saw the SS wort chillers at midwest. Did you cannibalize one of those?

Yes indeed!

 

[Hermit]

Any suggestions? Not sure if you saw the last post about it only popping when the Neutral and Ground are connected at the BK.

Technically the neutral should not go to the BK. Just the ground.

 

[yellow]

Technically the neutral should not go to the BK. Just the ground.

Ground the BK and just not hook up the neutral to the BK.

SO the two hots are potted in the heating element, then just drill a small hole in the bottom ring of the BK to ground it and call it good?

Can you explain what is happening when the Ground and Neutral are connected? It sure would help me understand what the heck is going on.....

 

[Hermit]

Ground the BK and just not hook up the neutral to the BK.

SO the two hots are potted in the heating element, then just drill a small hole in the bottom ring of the BK to ground it and call it good?

Can you explain what is happening when the Ground and Neutral are connected? It sure would help me understand what the heck is going on.....

All I know if GFI has been a pain in my axe sometimes. Most 240 volt appliances still come with the neutral grounded to the cabinet. The only suggestion I have would be is to take a meter and do some checking. IN THEORY you should not get a voltage reading between ground and neutral. You may be.

 

[passedpawn]

I built a control box following what The Pol did (at least I hope). I plugged in the control box today and tested with a voltmeter. All power goes where it should when the switches are flipped. The main 240V/30A power cord has GFI in it - does not trigger when just the box is plugged in. I think that is all good

Now, somehow I ordered the wrong thermocouple. So I have the element in the keg and wired to the two hots, but the neutral and ground are not hooked up from the 10-3 wire that comes from heating element to control box. So I have the two pole switch off so that no power will be going to the element yet. AS SOON AS I PLUG IN THE HEATING ELEMENT THE GFI POPS!!!!!

What would cause this?

The white neutral needs to return to the GFI. The green ground should tie to any exposed metal in the system. The nuetral and gnd do not get connected together or the GFI will trip (the nuetral current will bypass the GFI if you tie them together). I'm not an electrician, but I believe I am correct here.

 

[yellow]

All I know if GFI has been a pain in my axe sometimes. Most 240 volt appliances still come with the neutral grounded to the cabinet. The only suggestion I have would be is to take a meter and do some checking. IN THEORY you should not get a voltage reading between ground and neutral. You may be.

There is no voltage between the neutral and ground.

 

[yellow]

The white neutral needs to return to the GFI. The green ground should tie to any exposed metal in the system. The nuetral and gnd do not get connected together or the GFI will trip (the nuetral current will bypass the GFI if you tie them together). I'm not an electrician, but I believe I am correct here.

I thought the two where originally connected when they come into the house and after that are never supposed to meet again.

If the neutral is not connected to the BK and I cannot get to the GFI since it is part of the 10G 30A cord what should I do with the Neutral? Just not hook it up to the BK and cap it?

 

[diatonic]

So, I'm guessing that based on the new BK, you've decided to do some batches bigger than 5 gallons?

 

[passedpawn]

I thought the two where originally connected when they come into the house and after that are never supposed to meet again.

If the neutral is not connected to the BK and I cannot get to the GFI since it is part of the 10G 30A cord what should I do with the Neutral? Just not hook it up to the BK and cap it?

sure, I'd crimp an end cap on there, or you could wirenut and tape it.

 

[yellow]

So, I'm guessing that based on the new BK, you've decided to do some batches bigger than 5 gallons?

ABSOLUTELY! Been brewing with my step-dad which is great. Get to hang out and spend time together and get a great product out of it. Plus we figured out that with a 5 gal batch there isn't enough for the two of us so to bypass any fist-a-cuffs we are going 10gal.

 

[kal]

Or measure thrice... I am drilling Blichmans today

Or 10 times! That's what I did before I put holes in my $1500 worth of Blichmann pots for elements and other attachments.

I have a bunch of instructions/tips/pictures here on how to do it right:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/

Click on "Heating Elements" (the only article online as of today...)

Kal

 

[Battery Acid Bo]

The Pol,

You said that this is for a boil kettle.

I noticed that you are not using ultra low density elements in your kettle.

I have heard about the story of scorching the wort, have you been able to disprove this as a myth?

 

[The Pol]

The Pol,

You said that this is for a boil kettle.

I noticed that you are not using ultra low density elements in your kettle.

I have heard about the story of scorching the wort, have you been able to disprove this as a myth?

Low Density elements work fine

 

[bakins]

Low Density elements work fine

+1. Been using them for about 2 years now. 3 SRM fizzy beers and all...

 

[yellow]

She is up and running.....Now just need to find a place to ferment!