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Blichmann QuickCarb (New from HomebrewCon 2016)

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you cant really see the bubbles after a while but its still carbing the beer, blichmans does the same exact thing, I also boil the stone for 10 min after im done using it and leave it in a jar with star san to avoid clogging

There's not problem with leaving a stone in star san for long periods of time? Does this work with a oxygen stone as well?
 
There's not problem with leaving a stone in star san for long periods of time? Does this work with a oxygen stone as well?

No problem at all, i have my threaded stone and x2 5 microns in the same jar, will work with your stone as well
 
I used to feel I had to run it overnight at the proper pressure, until I realized that if I set it about 10 lbs past optimal for 45 minutes, then took off the rig and left it overnight to condition, it would be fine. Several people on this thread have mentioned the need to condition overnight regardless.

I think that the extra pressure gets integrated into the liquid. I'm not so sensitive to carbonation levels, I'm more of a flavor guy, but if it's too frothy when dispensing, just bleed off pressure (completely, if it's really bad) and after a bit to equalize, it will be fine.
 
I use 5 gallon corny kegs, and have found that if I'm doing two of the same flavor, I can save time by carbing both at once.

I use a jumper to go from the out of the first keg to the in of the second, but otherwise hook up the Blichmann as usual. I don't make three of a batch, so I haven't tried stretching it farther. I assume that at the worst, I'd just need a more powerful pump.

Has anyone else experimented with this?
 
I built a system almost identical to the Blichman, however, once the pressure equalizes in the keg to what your PSI is, it stops carbing the liquid. The only way to overcome this is to increase the PSI once you don't see the bubbles in the return line. You can't use a chart to carb your keg with this method because there is nothing preventing you from over-carbing if you need to increase the PSI 4 or 5 times during the process. Has anyone else seen this or experienced this?

This might not seem obvious, but 1/2 through the process I am purging a small amount of pressure from the keg, not raising pressure and have had excellent results. I used to raise the pressure, but don't anymore. ( I do run it 4-5 psi over what the chart says the entire time) Give it a try..
 
This might not seem obvious, but 1/2 through the process I am purging a small amount of pressure from the keg, not raising pressure and have had excellent results. I used to raise the pressure, but don't anymore. ( I do run it 4-5 psi over what the chart says the entire time) Give it a try..

So you're hitting your CO2 volume target exactly an hour after QuickCarb use? How long do you purge the keg for? Any idea as to why this would work?
 
At a guess, it's because the recently injected bolume of CO2 is in the form of microbubbles, not excess pressure in the headspace.

I suspect the carbonation "sets" after 12 hours or so because the microbubbles get absorbed into the liquid— no longer bubbles, they are dispersed molecules weakly bonded to the water in the brew. This would be the ultimate equilibrium state, what druggists (i.e., soda jerks) 130 years ago referred to as carbolic acid.
 
So you're hitting your CO2 volume target exactly an hour after QuickCarb use? How long do you purge the keg for? Any idea as to why this would work?

The pressure in the keg equalizes after a period of time. I don't purge but for just a second or two just to remove the pressure in the headspace of the king so that the CO2 begins injecting into the liquid solution again. It has been working for me. YMMV
 
Blichmann sent me a replacement. I usually find their customer service to be top notch. I have not tried opening and cleaning the original pump. Honestly I feel that I shouldn't have to. I used and cleaned it as instructed by Blichmann. I PBW'd and sanitized before and after each use. If it can't stay clean and mold free, there is something wrong with the product. I feel like they agree, which is why they sent a replacement. Maybe I'll try cleaning the old pump and see what happens. Thanks for the info.
 
Blichmann sent me a replacement. I usually find their customer service to be top notch. I have not tried opening and cleaning the original pump. Honestly I feel that I shouldn't have to. I used and cleaned it as instructed by Blichmann. I PBW'd and sanitized before and after each use. If it can't stay clean and mold free, there is something wrong with the product. I feel like they agree, which is why they sent a replacement. Maybe I'll try cleaning the old pump and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

They would send you a replacement just to keep you from making a stink either way... customers always right even when they are not approach.. especially when its mentioned online. Ive noticed a few folks start treads to blackmail suppliers in this fashion here.(Not that its what your doing)

If the pump got moldy its because it wasnt clean or sanitary inside period... dont overthink it. Mold grows were the conditions are right to support it. I dont see how this could be the pump that was mechanically at fault but more likely that the liquid in the pump wasnt starsan or was too weak to inhibit mold growth. if the pump wasnt thoroughly cleaned immediately after each use they will very likely get this way and due to the nooks and crannies they may get this way over time even when flushed after use and still require actual disassembly and cleaning just like a keg or anything else with such nooks and crannies does from time to time..
Perhaps cleaning with hot pbw solution might help if it doesnt damage the pump.. I leave mine full of starsan solution when not in use.

This is one reason im glad my clone uses a clear pump that I can inspect without disassembly. I see some are all black..
 
They would send you a replacement just to keep you from making a stink either way... customers always right even when they are not approach.. especially when its mentioned online. Ive noticed a few folks start treads to blackmail suppliers in this fashion here.(Not that its what your doing)

If the pump got moldy its because it wasnt clean or sanitary inside period... dont overthink it. Mold grows were the conditions are right to support it. I dont see how this could be the pump that was mechanically at fault but more likely that the liquid in the pump wasnt starsan or was too weak to inhibit mold growth. if the pump wasnt thoroughly cleaned immediately after each use they will very likely get this way and due to the nooks and crannies they may get this way over time even when flushed after use and still require actual disassembly and cleaning just like a keg or anything else with such nooks and crannies does from time to time..
Perhaps cleaning with hot pbw solution might help if it doesnt damage the pump.. I leave mine full of starsan solution when not in use.

This is one reason im glad my clone uses a clear pump that I can inspect without disassembly. I see some are all black..

Well this is a truly dumb argument to be involved in. They replaced it because it didn't work as advertised. That is called good customer service. If you read what I wrote, I already indicated that I used PBW and sanitizer, as instructed by Blichmann. I'm guessing they are familiar with their own products. Call me crazy for expecting a product to work as advertised. Don't overthink it, if a product doesn't work as advertised, contact customer service and get the issue resolved.

In 9 years of brewing I have never lost a batch of beer to sanitation issues. So I think I know how to measure and mix Star San.

as a side note, don't store plastics in sanitizer. Star San says "it is safe for use on all surfaces, but use caution since it is an acid; contact with soft metals, rubber, and plastic should be kept to a minimum."

and BTW thanks for letting me know you are an awesome DIYer. I like the way you slipped that in at the end.
 
Well this is a truly dumb argument to be involved in. They replaced it because it didn't work as advertised. That is called good customer service. If you read what I wrote, I already indicated that I used PBW and sanitizer, as instructed by Blichmann. I'm guessing they are familiar with their own products. Call me crazy for expecting a product to work as advertised. Don't overthink it, if a product doesn't work as advertised, contact customer service and get the issue resolved.

In 9 years of brewing I have never lost a batch of beer to sanitation issues. So I think I know how to measure and mix Star San.

as a side note, don't store plastics in sanitizer. Star San says "it is safe for use on all surfaces, but use caution since it is an acid; contact with soft metals, rubber, and plastic should be kept to a minimum."

and BTW thanks for letting me know you are an awesome DIYer. I like the way you slipped that in at the end.
I wasnt trying to argue or "slip" anything in I dont see why that comment should be taken negatively or like I was trying to make a jab?

The Blichmann quickcarb does work as advertised. so does a clone for that matter. I'm simply pointing out that if your pump got moldy inside its not because the unit doesnt work as advertised or broken. It has to be because it wasnt completely clean inside when stored at least once. Plain and simple.. The pump was working right? How would it malfunction to get moldy? If it was just water it wouldnt grow mold like that.
Theres no actual malfunction in the device that would cause the mold issues your complaining of. I know you want this to be as simple as saying it didnt stay clean like blichmann said it would with the maintenance they suggested but replacing the pump isnt going to change that. I'm just trying to be realistic here and your fooling yourself or you are just not thinking it through if you really believe otherwise here. Blichmanns best course of action was to send you a replacement no questions asked. So if the issue comes back again they may learn something new about it and you will be more cooperative with them in any future course of action you two would choose to take together rather a refund or whatever...

I guess you will find out either way anyway unless you simply forgot to clean it thoroughly and that doesnt happen again as a result of this experience.

either way blichmann didnt design or make this pump .. I dont see a whole lot thay could do here if they wanted to to change it beside make changes to the generic pumps design so the manufacturer would make custom pumps for them and then you will really see a large price increase. they will most likely change the recommended cleaning procedure in some way.

Your probably right about storing mine with starsan solution in it but then again I know if I dont it will likely just require me to disassemble and clean or it will look like the ones pictured in this thread...at least that what I figured would happen... and the pump is less than $30 so ill take my chances and have the piece of mind theres no mold in it.
 
Here's my DIY version, I had some scrap lumber laying around. Tested for leaks, no problem. Next brew will test it out...
HomeMadeQuickCarb_600x800.png
 
...
as a side note, don't store plastics in sanitizer. Star San says "it is safe for use on all surfaces, but use caution since it is an acid; contact with soft metals, rubber, and plastic should be kept to a minimum."

Ohhhhhh... that's why my cheap-o water gallon containers repurposed to hold SS solution leak time after time after a couple of months!

Love this forum... learn/realize/remember something new everyday!

Carry on... pay no mind to the interruption...
 
Ohhhhhh... that's why my cheap-o water gallon containers repurposed to hold SS solution leak time after time after a couple of months!

Love this forum... learn/realize/remember something new everyday!

Carry on... pay no mind to the interruption...

StarSan comes in a plastic container, and I keep a solution of it in a plastic spray bottle. Is there any concern for this? I've never had an issue.
 
StarSan comes in a plastic container, and I keep a solution of it in a plastic spray bottle. Is there any concern for this? I've never had an issue.

Not all plastics are alike. Probably depends on the container.

OT: Has anyone had issues with the power supply shorting out or the pump ceasing to self prime? Seems to be running at half power once I get it primed. Waiting to hear back about a replacement due to the power supply issue (which has been the case since day one), then probably rip the whole thing open to diagnose the pump as long as it doesn't have to be sent back.
 
Not all plastics are alike. Probably depends on the container.

OT: Has anyone had issues with the power supply shorting out or the pump ceasing to self prime? Seems to be running at half power once I get it primed. Waiting to hear back about a replacement due to the power supply issue (which has been the case since day one), then probably rip the whole thing open to diagnose the pump as long as it doesn't have to be sent back.

I know that a problem with the DIY versions is if the power supply is insufficient, the pump fails to prime and it appears to run at 1/2 speed, if at all.

the pump I got requires 12v @ 70watts. I happened to have a 12v/20A supply, so I have used that with no problems.
 
Not all plastics are alike. Probably depends on the container.

OT: Has anyone had issues with the power supply shorting out or the pump ceasing to self prime? Seems to be running at half power once I get it primed. Waiting to hear back about a replacement due to the power supply issue (which has been the case since day one), then probably rip the whole thing open to diagnose the pump as long as it doesn't have to be sent back.

How are you gauging that it's running at half power? Are you seeing insufficient flow through the tubing? I would assume that a slower flow would mean that carbonation times would take longer.
 
How are you gauging that it's running at half power? Are you seeing insufficient flow through the tubing? I would assume that a slower flow would mean that carbonation times t1would take longer.

As observed through tubing. And yes, takes longer to carb.

Power supply is a short somewhere in the wiring I haven't identified. Takes some.play to get it to turn on.

And interesting that power supply may impact the pump strength (makes sense). Although this is the commercial one, not DIY.

It.worked fine (when it would turn on) until one day it didnt.
 
carbpump.jpg


120v to a light switch. On, Off, simple! It takes a good hour or more. I start at 5 lbs psi and move it up 2 lbs until I get to 14lbs and burp the keg periodically until it just spews foam, then just let it run.
 
As observed through tubing. And yes, takes longer to carb.

Power supply is a short somewhere in the wiring I haven't identified. Takes some.play to get it to turn on.

And interesting that power supply may impact the pump strength (makes sense). Although this is the commercial one, not DIY.

It.worked fine (when it would turn on) until one day it didnt.
that need to have a certian minimum amp rating or the pump will run slower.. My pump requires 5 or 7 amps if I remember right... I actually use my motorcycle battery with a charger connected until I get around to getting a large enough 12v power supple and when I turn off my charger so it just runs on the battery you can hear it slow down.
 
that need to have a certian minimum amp rating or the pump will run slower.. My pump requires 5 or 7 amps if I remember right... I actually use my motorcycle battery with a charger connected until I get around to getting a large enough 12v power supple and when I turn off my charger so it just runs on the battery you can hear it slow down.

Right, lower power obviously equals slower flow. However as this is a short and zero vs full power and not a reduction, I think my two issues are independent of each other.
 
Right, lower power obviously equals slower flow. However as this is a short and zero vs full power and not a reduction, I think my two issues are independent of each other.

I dont doubt that... Sorry I wasnt suggesting it was necessarily your issue, I was mainly just putting it out there for clarification because just like the DC wort pump threads these dc pumps sometimes get underpowered by their owners who sometimes give them a bad rap because of it... A lot of folks dont realize how amperage is important along with the proper voltage. if your power supply is struggling to keep up it strains everything , creates more heat and often causes early failures usually in the power supply. Again, not implying thats necessarily what happened in your case.
 
I am having a weird issue where my quick carb does not seem to actually be carbing. Noticed with my last few batches that the beer was still always a bit flat after carbing and took a few more days in the keg to get to proper carb levels. My latest batch I quick carbed not once but twice for about 50 mins and it is still flat. Beer is at about 40 degrees f. Not sure what is going on. Its being pumped through the unit correctly. Any ideas?
 
I am having a weird issue where my quick carb does not seem to actually be carbing. Noticed with my last few batches that the beer was still always a bit flat after carbing and took a few more days in the keg to get to proper carb levels. My latest batch I quick carbed not once but twice for about 50 mins and it is still flat. Beer is at about 40 degrees f. Not sure what is going on. Its being pumped through the unit correctly. Any ideas?


Clogged stone? Vinyl tube pinched? Not using the chart? Temp is warmer than you think? Or you've over pressurized the keg during the purge which is limiting the flow out of the co2 tank. Just a few ideas.

I'd start with the purge pressure
 
marjen—

Blichmann says it carbs most of the way, like 75% or so. I generally pump the pressure to 2x what I want for an hour or two, then let it rest. It's good the next day.

Something about the process seems to require the extra time. It's like it's a good start, but not the whole deal. I wonder if theCO2 gets infused as bubbles, but doesn't really get absorbed for a bit.
 
marjen—

Blichmann says it carbs most of the way, like 75% or so. I generally pump the pressure to 2x what I want for an hour or two, then let it rest. It's good the next day.

Something about the process seems to require the extra time. It's like it's a good start, but not the whole deal. I wonder if theCO2 gets infused as bubbles, but doesn't really get absorbed for a bit.

Not sure what you mean by blichmann says it only carbs by 75%. What they say is you should run it for 45 minutes and then check your carbonation if you need to run it for longer after an hour then you can. One of the things that I do to get my carbonation achieved is after I hook up the unit and get everything started I like to purge the CO2 from the headspace so that the pressure is not equalised and then half way through the carbonation process I do the same thing to make sure that the CO2 is being forced into the solution running passed the stone. I began doing that method when I started noticing that about 30 minutes after starting the force carbonation the beer in the return line was not showing very many bubbles. I have carbonated a lot of beer with mine and never had any issues with under carbonation if you follow those tips.

That is with the blichmann version, can't speak to the ability of DIY versions.
 
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