Blichmann QuickCarb (New from HomebrewCon 2016)

[Burquebrewer]

I would say your liquid lines should be 3/8 or 5/16 which are within 1/8 of each other.
As for line length, I'm in the shorter line camp and here is why:
Longer line will allow the liquid to be exposed to the ambient temperature of the room, raising the temp of the fluid which is already having to deal with the temp increase from running through the pump itself. Unless you are going to leave it in a refrigerator during the process. There is also the question of the resistance of tubing on the fluid which is negated by the fact that if using the same type of pump Blichmann is using you can adjust the litters per minute. So there really is no need, like with a kegerator, to calibrate the psi with hose length. The one I built which is pictured above as an adjustment screw which allow a range of 1.8 liters to 4.2 liters per minute.

I used the same pump ElChangoGuero used. I'm not sure if the flow is adjustable. I'm going to use it today for the first time, so I should know soon.

Thanks.

 

[ElChangoGuero]

I used the same pump ElChangoGuero used. I'm not sure if the flow is adjustable. I'm going to use it today for the first time, so I should know soon.

Thanks.

Flow is not adjustable, i use a 1/4" x 3/8" hose on my setup and just carbonated 2 kegs for different carb levels with no problem, but try to use +5psi over what the carb chart says and you should be fine

 

[KellysBane]

How did it work? I built one using pretty much the same pump and parts... any tips or anything you noticed that you might change?

Also, does this pump have a adjustable flow like KelysBane is describing?

Thanks.

Yes, his pump is very similar to mine, there should be an adjustment screw on the head of this pump.

 

[KellysBane]

Flow is not adjustable, i use a 1/4" x 3/8" hose on my setup and just carbonated 2 kegs for different carb levels with no problem, but try to use +5psi over what the carb chart says and you should be fine

Yes a +5 psi is the way to go. The air stone Blichmann is using is a larger micron stone something between 5 and 10. While the one readily available for this build is 2 micron so as a result you need more psi to overcome the stones resistance.

 

[Gustatorian]

Anybody else have a problem with the liquid-out hose kinking? I assume a quick fix would be to purchase thicker 3/8" ID vinyl hose, right? If there are other solutions, I'm all ears.

Also, does the hose length (liquid-out, saturation, CO2) make a difference? I recently carbed up a lime beer and boy do those hoses smell like limes now! Need to be replaced!

 

[augiedoggy]

Yes a +5 psi is the way to go. The air stone Blichmann is using is a larger micron stone something between 5 and 10. While the one readily available for this build is 2 micron so as a result you need more psi to overcome the stones resistance.

? I used one of these commonly avaliable 5 miron stones myself... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inline-Aera...065632?hash=item5439729da0:g:~lQAAOSwzaJX5CEC

 

[augiedoggy]

Update the Diaphragm Seals And Housing are is made from Santoprene EDPM, Vition, polypropylene, and Nylon. All of these materials are food safe for the type of application we would use it for, assuming you stay within the Temp ranges of the pump of course.

My main concern was I would prefer to purchase from a manufacturer here in the US versus China which dose not have the same regulatory rules with products as we do here.

not to go off topic but...
where does it state that this pump is made in the USA? Its more likely a chinese pump for that price just rebranded and distributed by an american company..if it was made here it would be at least $60
EDIT... you can actually by these seaflow branded pumps directly from china on alibaba.. heres a similiar one..https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/SEAFLO-Hot-Sale-12V-DC-Mini_60536455571.html

Do not be fooled by seemingly american brand names.. It doesnt necessarily mean much of anything today.

A close look at the pump you bought indicates it was made with all the the same molds and components as the food grade clear one I bought on ebay and likely in the same factory..

 

[marjen]

Anybody else have a problem with the liquid-out hose kinking? I assume a quick fix would be to purchase thicker 3/8" ID vinyl hose, right? If there are other solutions, I'm all ears.

Same thing has happened to mine. I have not done anything about it at this point and it does not seem to be effecting performance. At some point I will probably get new tubing.

 

[Gustatorian]

Same thing has happened to mine. I have not done anything about it at this point and it does not seem to be effecting performance. At some point I will probably get new tubing.

Do you think length of tubing has any effect? I'm also going to replace the oetiker clamps with something easier to remove/to efficiently clean the barbs/tail pieces.

 

[augiedoggy]

Do you think length of tubing has any effect? I'm also going to replace the oetiker clamps with something easier to remove/to efficiently clean the barbs/tail pieces.

Curious, flushing starsan through immediately after use doesnt keep yours clean? I found its been working fine for mine.

 

[Gustatorian]

Curious, flushing starsan through immediately after use doesnt keep yours clean? I found its been working fine for mine.

It does for sure, but I brew with a lot of additives and they impart their aroma onto the vinyl. I've never noticed any flavor/aroma change in the final beer, but I'd rather replace them if it's an option.

 

[dirtybear7]

Does anyone have staining or mold growing in the clear triangle shaped part of the pump? I wrote to Blichmann about this issue a while back. They replied that it was just a stain. I tried cleaning the unit and then sanitizing and drying. I haven't used the unit in a while, but I've now discovered it is no stain, but a mold or fungus. I took it out last night and it looked gross. I'm writing to Blichmann for help, as they have been very good with me in the past. So this isn't a rant, I'm just curious if this is a one-off or a common issue. The photo is of the original issues, there is now black fuzz too. I need to take a new picture.

Link to photo of pump https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByX5WB-ZxRLpY2E0OFp1MGI5XzA/view?usp=sharing

 

[Gustatorian]

Does anyone have staining or mold growing in the clear triangle shaped part of the pump? I wrote to Blichmann about this issue a while back. They replied that it was just a stain. I tried cleaning the unit and then sanitizing and drying. I haven't used the unit in a while, but I've now discovered it is no stain, but a mold or fungus. I took it out last night and it looked gross. I'm writing to Blichmann for help, as they have been very good with me in the past. So this isn't a rant, I'm just curious if this is a one-off or a common issue. The photo is of the original issues, there is now black fuzz too. I need to take a new picture.

Link to photo of pump https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByX5WB-ZxRLpY2E0OFp1MGI5XzA/view?usp=sharing

Hmmm, was it fairly easy to disassemble and clean? The transparent portion of my QuickCarb looks a bit discolored from the beer that has run through it, but nothing like yours.

 

[highland_brewer]

Does anyone have staining or mold growing in the clear triangle shaped part of the pump? I wrote to Blichmann about this issue a while back. They replied that it was just a stain. I tried cleaning the unit and then sanitizing and drying. I haven't used the unit in a while, but I've now discovered it is no stain, but a mold or fungus. I took it out last night and it looked gross. I'm writing to Blichmann for help, as they have been very good with me in the past. So this isn't a rant, I'm just curious if this is a one-off or a common issue. The photo is of the original issues, there is now black fuzz too. I need to take a new picture.

Link to photo of pump https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByX5WB-ZxRLpY2E0OFp1MGI5XzA/view?usp=sharing

Have you taken all of the screws out of the housing and cleaned the diaphragm? All the screws are the same length.. Just be careful not to damage the diaphragm. I will be doing a video in this soon.

 

[Gustatorian]

Have you taken all of the screws out of the housing and cleaned the diaphragm? All the screws are the same length.. Just be careful not to damage the diaphragm. I will be doing a video in this soon.

The sooner you post a video the better!

 

[Gustatorian]

Mold definitely grows within the system (see photos below). Very surprising as I clean this unit once I'm done carbonating per Blichmann's instructions.

A few questions.

1) Does the beer come in contact with the moldy portions of the unit? I assume it does, because mold wouldn't grow in an area where moisture and sugar do not come in contact. But, thus far, I haven't noticed any contaminations with the beer I've carbonated with it.

2) Does anyone have any recommendations on how to clean this piece? I gently removed as much mold as I could. It's visibly cleaner but, I'm sure, not totally clean. Furthermore, there is another piece on the back that I cant remove due to the mounting board interfering. This makes me think that mold is throughout the system.

3) I noticed, after I reassembled the unit, sanitizer is moving slower through the entire system. Could this be due to how far I screwed in the big bolt (see photo below). When I unscrewed it, the larger bolt was half-way out. However, I experimented with different levels of the screw being tightened and loosened, and I saw no difference in flow.

 

[JDWebb]

I built a system almost identical to the Blichman, however, once the pressure equalizes in the keg to what your PSI is, it stops carbing the liquid. The only way to overcome this is to increase the PSI once you don't see the bubbles in the return line. You can't use a chart to carb your keg with this method because there is nothing preventing you from over-carbing if you need to increase the PSI 4 or 5 times during the process. Has anyone else seen this or experienced this?

 

[ElChangoGuero]

I built a system almost identical to the Blichman, however, once the pressure equalizes in the keg to what your PSI is, it stops carbing the liquid. The only way to overcome this is to increase the PSI once you don't see the bubbles in the return line. You can't use a chart to carb your keg with this method because there is nothing preventing you from over-carbing if you need to increase the PSI 4 or 5 times during the process. Has anyone else seen this or experienced this?

If you are using the 2 micron stone, what i do is just set the PSI +6 than what the carbonation chart says and run it for 45 min. It should equalize after a while and you will stop seeing bubbles on the return line but that is normal, just set it and leave it and once it finished disconnect everything and put the pressure as you would regularly would to your keg to finish off that 10% left of carbing your beer

 

[JDWebb]

I use the 2 micron stone, yet I stop seeing bubbles just minutes after setting the pressure (14 PSI). So you're saying just leave it go anyway? It doesn't make sense since the keg equalizes pressure with the Co2 line. I'll try it on the next keg and see what happens. The only difference between my system and Blichman's is the 10 micron stone, but not sure that makes any difference.

 

[ElChangoGuero]

I use the 2 micron stone, yet I stop seeing bubbles just minutes after setting the pressure (14 PSI). So you're saying just leave it go anyway? It doesn't make sense since the keg equalizes pressure with the Co2 line. I'll try it on the next keg and see what happens. The only difference between my system and Blichman's is the 10 micron stone, but not sure that makes any difference.

you cant really see the bubbles after a while but its still carbing the beer, blichmans does the same exact thing, I also boil the stone for 10 min after im done using it and leave it in a jar with star san to avoid clogging

 

[Gustatorian]

you cant really see the bubbles after a while but its still carbing the beer, blichmans does the same exact thing, I also boil the stone for 10 min after im done using it and leave it in a jar with star san to avoid clogging

There's not problem with leaving a stone in star san for long periods of time? Does this work with a oxygen stone as well?

 

[ElChangoGuero]

There's not problem with leaving a stone in star san for long periods of time? Does this work with a oxygen stone as well?

No problem at all, i have my threaded stone and x2 5 microns in the same jar, will work with your stone as well

 

[jimmer]

I used to feel I had to run it overnight at the proper pressure, until I realized that if I set it about 10 lbs past optimal for 45 minutes, then took off the rig and left it overnight to condition, it would be fine. Several people on this thread have mentioned the need to condition overnight regardless.

I think that the extra pressure gets integrated into the liquid. I'm not so sensitive to carbonation levels, I'm more of a flavor guy, but if it's too frothy when dispensing, just bleed off pressure (completely, if it's really bad) and after a bit to equalize, it will be fine.

 

[jimmer]

I use 5 gallon corny kegs, and have found that if I'm doing two of the same flavor, I can save time by carbing both at once.

I use a jumper to go from the out of the first keg to the in of the second, but otherwise hook up the Blichmann as usual. I don't make three of a batch, so I haven't tried stretching it farther. I assume that at the worst, I'd just need a more powerful pump.

Has anyone else experimented with this?

 

[highland_brewer]

I built a system almost identical to the Blichman, however, once the pressure equalizes in the keg to what your PSI is, it stops carbing the liquid. The only way to overcome this is to increase the PSI once you don't see the bubbles in the return line. You can't use a chart to carb your keg with this method because there is nothing preventing you from over-carbing if you need to increase the PSI 4 or 5 times during the process. Has anyone else seen this or experienced this?

This might not seem obvious, but 1/2 through the process I am purging a small amount of pressure from the keg, not raising pressure and have had excellent results. I used to raise the pressure, but don't anymore. ( I do run it 4-5 psi over what the chart says the entire time) Give it a try..

 

[Gustatorian]

This might not seem obvious, but 1/2 through the process I am purging a small amount of pressure from the keg, not raising pressure and have had excellent results. I used to raise the pressure, but don't anymore. ( I do run it 4-5 psi over what the chart says the entire time) Give it a try..

So you're hitting your CO2 volume target exactly an hour after QuickCarb use? How long do you purge the keg for? Any idea as to why this would work?

 

[jimmer]

At a guess, it's because the recently injected bolume of CO2 is in the form of microbubbles, not excess pressure in the headspace.

I suspect the carbonation "sets" after 12 hours or so because the microbubbles get absorbed into the liquid— no longer bubbles, they are dispersed molecules weakly bonded to the water in the brew. This would be the ultimate equilibrium state, what druggists (i.e., soda jerks) 130 years ago referred to as carbolic acid.

 

[highland_brewer]

So you're hitting your CO2 volume target exactly an hour after QuickCarb use? How long do you purge the keg for? Any idea as to why this would work?

The pressure in the keg equalizes after a period of time. I don't purge but for just a second or two just to remove the pressure in the headspace of the king so that the CO2 begins injecting into the liquid solution again. It has been working for me. YMMV

 

[dirtybear7]

Blichmann sent me a replacement. I usually find their customer service to be top notch. I have not tried opening and cleaning the original pump. Honestly I feel that I shouldn't have to. I used and cleaned it as instructed by Blichmann. I PBW'd and sanitized before and after each use. If it can't stay clean and mold free, there is something wrong with the product. I feel like they agree, which is why they sent a replacement. Maybe I'll try cleaning the old pump and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

 

[augiedoggy]

Blichmann sent me a replacement. I usually find their customer service to be top notch. I have not tried opening and cleaning the original pump. Honestly I feel that I shouldn't have to. I used and cleaned it as instructed by Blichmann. I PBW'd and sanitized before and after each use. If it can't stay clean and mold free, there is something wrong with the product. I feel like they agree, which is why they sent a replacement. Maybe I'll try cleaning the old pump and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

They would send you a replacement just to keep you from making a stink either way... customers always right even when they are not approach.. especially when its mentioned online. Ive noticed a few folks start treads to blackmail suppliers in this fashion here.(Not that its what your doing)

If the pump got moldy its because it wasnt clean or sanitary inside period... dont overthink it. Mold grows were the conditions are right to support it. I dont see how this could be the pump that was mechanically at fault but more likely that the liquid in the pump wasnt starsan or was too weak to inhibit mold growth. if the pump wasnt thoroughly cleaned immediately after each use they will very likely get this way and due to the nooks and crannies they may get this way over time even when flushed after use and still require actual disassembly and cleaning just like a keg or anything else with such nooks and crannies does from time to time..
Perhaps cleaning with hot pbw solution might help if it doesnt damage the pump.. I leave mine full of starsan solution when not in use.

This is one reason im glad my clone uses a clear pump that I can inspect without disassembly. I see some are all black..

 

[dirtybear7]

They would send you a replacement just to keep you from making a stink either way... customers always right even when they are not approach.. especially when its mentioned online. Ive noticed a few folks start treads to blackmail suppliers in this fashion here.(Not that its what your doing)

If the pump got moldy its because it wasnt clean or sanitary inside period... dont overthink it. Mold grows were the conditions are right to support it. I dont see how this could be the pump that was mechanically at fault but more likely that the liquid in the pump wasnt starsan or was too weak to inhibit mold growth. if the pump wasnt thoroughly cleaned immediately after each use they will very likely get this way and due to the nooks and crannies they may get this way over time even when flushed after use and still require actual disassembly and cleaning just like a keg or anything else with such nooks and crannies does from time to time..
Perhaps cleaning with hot pbw solution might help if it doesnt damage the pump.. I leave mine full of starsan solution when not in use.

This is one reason im glad my clone uses a clear pump that I can inspect without disassembly. I see some are all black..

Well this is a truly dumb argument to be involved in. They replaced it because it didn't work as advertised. That is called good customer service. If you read what I wrote, I already indicated that I used PBW and sanitizer, as instructed by Blichmann. I'm guessing they are familiar with their own products. Call me crazy for expecting a product to work as advertised. Don't overthink it, if a product doesn't work as advertised, contact customer service and get the issue resolved.

In 9 years of brewing I have never lost a batch of beer to sanitation issues. So I think I know how to measure and mix Star San.

as a side note, don't store plastics in sanitizer. Star San says "it is safe for use on all surfaces, but use caution since it is an acid; contact with soft metals, rubber, and plastic should be kept to a minimum."

and BTW thanks for letting me know you are an awesome DIYer. I like the way you slipped that in at the end.

 

[augiedoggy]

Well this is a truly dumb argument to be involved in. They replaced it because it didn't work as advertised. That is called good customer service. If you read what I wrote, I already indicated that I used PBW and sanitizer, as instructed by Blichmann. I'm guessing they are familiar with their own products. Call me crazy for expecting a product to work as advertised. Don't overthink it, if a product doesn't work as advertised, contact customer service and get the issue resolved.

In 9 years of brewing I have never lost a batch of beer to sanitation issues. So I think I know how to measure and mix Star San.

as a side note, don't store plastics in sanitizer. Star San says "it is safe for use on all surfaces, but use caution since it is an acid; contact with soft metals, rubber, and plastic should be kept to a minimum."

and BTW thanks for letting me know you are an awesome DIYer. I like the way you slipped that in at the end.

I wasnt trying to argue or "slip" anything in I dont see why that comment should be taken negatively or like I was trying to make a jab?

The Blichmann quickcarb does work as advertised. so does a clone for that matter. I'm simply pointing out that if your pump got moldy inside its not because the unit doesnt work as advertised or broken. It has to be because it wasnt completely clean inside when stored at least once. Plain and simple.. The pump was working right? How would it malfunction to get moldy? If it was just water it wouldnt grow mold like that.
Theres no actual malfunction in the device that would cause the mold issues your complaining of. I know you want this to be as simple as saying it didnt stay clean like blichmann said it would with the maintenance they suggested but replacing the pump isnt going to change that. I'm just trying to be realistic here and your fooling yourself or you are just not thinking it through if you really believe otherwise here. Blichmanns best course of action was to send you a replacement no questions asked. So if the issue comes back again they may learn something new about it and you will be more cooperative with them in any future course of action you two would choose to take together rather a refund or whatever...

I guess you will find out either way anyway unless you simply forgot to clean it thoroughly and that doesnt happen again as a result of this experience.

either way blichmann didnt design or make this pump .. I dont see a whole lot thay could do here if they wanted to to change it beside make changes to the generic pumps design so the manufacturer would make custom pumps for them and then you will really see a large price increase. they will most likely change the recommended cleaning procedure in some way.

Your probably right about storing mine with starsan solution in it but then again I know if I dont it will likely just require me to disassemble and clean or it will look like the ones pictured in this thread...at least that what I figured would happen... and the pump is less than $30 so ill take my chances and have the piece of mind theres no mold in it.

 

[jimmayhugh]

Here's my DIY version, I had some scrap lumber laying around. Tested for leaks, no problem. Next brew will test it out...

 

[ElChangoGuero]

Here's my DIY version, I had some scrap lumber laying around. Tested for leaks, no problem. Next brew will test it out...

nice build, would probably recommend switching to a power supply that is not that exposed to water.

 

[jimmayhugh]

nice build, would probably recommend switching to a power supply that is not that exposed to water.

Agreed, I'm working on an acrylic shield for it. It was one I had at hand. It's currently sitting up on silicone spacers that I made with some spare tubing. and the side facing the "T" is enclosed.

 

[BrunDog]

...
as a side note, don't store plastics in sanitizer. Star San says "it is safe for use on all surfaces, but use caution since it is an acid; contact with soft metals, rubber, and plastic should be kept to a minimum."

Ohhhhhh... that's why my cheap-o water gallon containers repurposed to hold SS solution leak time after time after a couple of months!

Love this forum... learn/realize/remember something new everyday!

Carry on... pay no mind to the interruption...

 

[Gustatorian]

Ohhhhhh... that's why my cheap-o water gallon containers repurposed to hold SS solution leak time after time after a couple of months!

Love this forum... learn/realize/remember something new everyday!

Carry on... pay no mind to the interruption...

StarSan comes in a plastic container, and I keep a solution of it in a plastic spray bottle. Is there any concern for this? I've never had an issue.

 

[Qhrumphf]

StarSan comes in a plastic container, and I keep a solution of it in a plastic spray bottle. Is there any concern for this? I've never had an issue.

Not all plastics are alike. Probably depends on the container.

OT: Has anyone had issues with the power supply shorting out or the pump ceasing to self prime? Seems to be running at half power once I get it primed. Waiting to hear back about a replacement due to the power supply issue (which has been the case since day one), then probably rip the whole thing open to diagnose the pump as long as it doesn't have to be sent back.

 

[jimmayhugh]

Not all plastics are alike. Probably depends on the container.

OT: Has anyone had issues with the power supply shorting out or the pump ceasing to self prime? Seems to be running at half power once I get it primed. Waiting to hear back about a replacement due to the power supply issue (which has been the case since day one), then probably rip the whole thing open to diagnose the pump as long as it doesn't have to be sent back.

I know that a problem with the DIY versions is if the power supply is insufficient, the pump fails to prime and it appears to run at 1/2 speed, if at all.

the pump I got requires 12v @ 70watts. I happened to have a 12v/20A supply, so I have used that with no problems.

 

[Gustatorian]

Not all plastics are alike. Probably depends on the container.

OT: Has anyone had issues with the power supply shorting out or the pump ceasing to self prime? Seems to be running at half power once I get it primed. Waiting to hear back about a replacement due to the power supply issue (which has been the case since day one), then probably rip the whole thing open to diagnose the pump as long as it doesn't have to be sent back.

How are you gauging that it's running at half power? Are you seeing insufficient flow through the tubing? I would assume that a slower flow would mean that carbonation times would take longer.