• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

New England IPA Blasphemy - No Boil NEIPA

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yeah, I used 100% "wheat" DME for my no-boil IPA and it definitely wasn't too wheaty.
I have with a pale and it was but I guess everyone’s pallet can detect different thing or enjoys different flavors profiles. I will still to a minimum of 60-65% base malt or base dme for my recipes but to each their own
 
Hi guys.
Thanks for your replies. I'll be using a liquid malt which is something like a 50/50 mix of wheat and 2-row. Even calculating for the extra water in the liquid malt it's working out cheaper per kilo than dry malt. I'll use it up quickly after buying so no need to worry about it getting old.
 
Just want to again thank the OP for this. So easy, and pretty darn good for the amount of effort. I just moved, so this was a great way to get something on tap fast for the new neighbors while most of the equipment was still in boxes. This time I went with the OP original recipe, and I think this is my favorite!

I've tried Wheat/pilsen and Wheat/light combos, but I think you get a slightly better mouthfeel with Wheat only (as noted above the wheat DME is really only about 1/3 wheat, and that will get diluted even more if you add light or pilsen). It is still thin, but better IMHO.

And just like the others, no heat here. Just dump everything in and stir the bejesus out of it for a few minutes. There are lumps, but I find those lumps dissolve overnight.

I've used both turbinado and table sugar. I don't taste a difference, but the turbinado does add a bit of color.

Also a closed transfer REALLY helps with longevity. Still strong after 3 weeks, whereas my first batch went south after around 2. Cheers!
 
I'd like to try this but I'm worried about any contaminants that might be present in the DME.
I too worry about the complete no heat recipe. Not only for the beer but for all of my equipment and lines.

Due to that fear I did the pasteurized method and held the beer at 180 for 30. I utilized that time by rocking a whirlpool with my hops. Did a double no boil solely with Mosiac. Came out dynamite. Only my brewing buddies could tell the difference from my all grain recipes, and they said the mouthfeel was off compared to my typical NEIPAs. I call that a win. This is how it turned out. Bright and vibrant with a pretty good head retention
FA73F063-9A6D-4263-889E-CDCDE6B75D25.jpeg
 
I've done no heat hefe all DME w/no issues but also Belgian all DME IPA which clearly got infected. Not sure if it was the DME or me, probably me. dgallo has the right method for sure.
I'd like to try this but I'm worried about any contaminants that might be present in the DME.
 
I too worry about the complete no heat recipe. Not only for the beer but for all of my equipment and lines.

Due to that fear I did the pasteurized method and held the beer at 180 for 30. I utilized that time by rocking a whirlpool with my hops. Did a double no boil solely with Mosiac. Came out dynamite. Only my brewing buddies could tell the difference from my all grain recipes, and they said the mouthfeel was off compared to my typical NEIPAs. I call that a win. This is how it turned out. Bright and vibrant with a pretty good head retention View attachment 654768

Love that color can’t believe it’s no boil. What did you use dme wise?
 
Love that color can’t believe it’s no boil. What did you use dme wise?
Name: Johnny Cash (rule breaker)

Fermetables;
6lbs Pilsner Lite DME
3 lbs Golden Lite DME
1 lbs Bav. Wheat
2 lbs flaked Barley steeped @160

All mosaic hops

Yeast: Omega 091 - Horn. Kviek
OG: 1.081
FG: 1.014
Abv: 8.79%

Steeped flaked Barley for 30 at 160

Brought wort to 180* for 30 mins for a 5 oz whirlpool and to pasteurized.

Cooled to 100*f and pitch 1/2 pack of kviek. Over built a starter with the other 1/2 for future use

Hit fg in like 58 hours

Soft crashed to 50* to drop yeast 36 hours. Warmed to 60;

1st dryhop 3 days til keg 2.5 oz Mosiac pellet & 1 oz cryo

2nd dryhop the same 1.5 days til kegging
 
Yeah i added it all at 160* before steeping the grains then raised to 180* for whirlpool and pasteurization. I know you can pasteurize at a lower for a longer period of time but I used 180 specifically for the whirlpool to pick up a few more ibus than I would at lower temps
 
Yeah i added it all at 160* before steeping the grains then raised to 180* for whirlpool
Thanks!

The curiosity behind my question was on final beer color, "boil" time, and the common practice of adding 50-75% of malt extract late in the "boil".

Based on the results that you got, it appears that DME doesn't darken much (if at all) at 180* for 30 minutes. With my "Hop Sampler" and "no boil (pasteurize)"/"Hop stand" recipes, and DME, I also add it all early in the process - and the color comes out as expected.

It may be time for me to brew a 60 min DME SMaSH* and a BBR "Hop Sampler" side by side to compare color and bitterness.













* Single dry Malt extract and Single Hop!?! o_O ;)
 
Thanks!

The curiosity behind my question was on final beer color, "boil" time, and the common practice of adding 50-75% of malt extract late in the "boil".

Based on the results that you got, it appears that DME doesn't darken much (if at all) at 180* for 30 minutes. With my "Hop Sampler" and "no boil (pasteurize)"/"Hop stand" recipes, and DME, I also add it all early in the process - and the color comes out as expected.

It may be time for me to brew a 60 min DME SMaSH* and a BBR "Hop Sampler" side by side to compare color and bitterness.













* Single dry Malt extract and Single Hop!?! o_O ;)

Sound like a cool experiment. If you do it I’d love to see your results.

My color also benefits because I have an absolute closed FV with co2 and liquid post on the lid. During fermentation the co2 post is connected to two piggybacked kegs to completely purge them of o2 with the blowoff. Then I run the co2 down the FV diptube when dryhoping so no o2 enters. Finally I’ll cold crash 2psi of pressure and then close transfer to the serving keg. That also helps maintain the color. This was the same beer at 8 weeks in the keg. The brightness really held up well
AFF63EB3-006E-4CC9-9E40-6F5820AA6CC9.jpeg
 
Ok, this is the second time making this delicious brew, and I just want to post what I used, etc.
6lbs DME
2lbs Sugar in the Raw
Water salts according to EZwatercalculator
5.5 gallons 95 degree (F) water
Kviek Hornidal OYL-091
Pure O2
3oz citra
3oz mosaic

Got the tap water running at 95 degrees, then filled the fermentor (SS Brewbucket) with 5.5 gallons of water. Added water salts, fermentables, used a sanitized paint stirrer attached to my drill to mix it all together (Paint stirrer has never touched anything but sanitizer, mashes, and now this.) Hit it with 30 seconds of O2 with a sanitized wand, then pitched the yeast. 24 hours later, put in 6oz of hops. 3 days later, kegged it, burst carbed it overnight, and let it sit for a week. Fantastic. Wouldn't change a thing, except to experiment with different hop combos. Guys in my club are pissed, because it should have more infections than that monkey in Outbreak. Some don't even believe me.
 
This feels like box brownies to me: originally they were add water and bake, but people wanted to feel like they did some work, so the brownie people backed off the recipe and now you add oil and eggs to feel more accomplished.

You CAN make this recipe more complicated. I'm not convinced you need to.
 
Can you share the details?

The reason I didn't include my exact numbers for the salts is because everyone's water is different, and I didn't want anyone to just go off my numbers thinking they were one size fits all. I believe it was 2 grams gypsum, 2 of epsom salts, 5 of calcium chloride, and 8ml phosphoric acid. This put me in the "acceptable" ranges in the spreadsheet, and predicted the beer would be balanced. http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/

As far as pasteurization goes, with the kviek, it's going within an hour, and I don't mean light bubbles. Full chugging, yeast coming out of the blowoff tube. Nothing else has a chance to get a foothold. Until it does.
 
The reason I didn't include my exact numbers for the salts is because everyone's water is different, and I didn't want anyone to just go off my numbers thinking they were one size fits all. I believe it was 2 grams gypsum, 2 of epsom salts, 5 of calcium chloride, and 8ml phosphoric acid. This put me in the "acceptable" ranges in the spreadsheet, and predicted the beer would be balanced. http://www.ezwatercalculator.com/

As far as pasteurization goes, with the kviek, it's going within an hour, and I don't mean light bubbles. Full chugging, yeast coming out of the blowoff tube. Nothing else has a chance to get a foothold. Until it does.
The difficult thing about making water adjustments to extract brews is that it is impossible to calculate your ppm of any of your adjustment because you do not know the water profile and additions the extract companies used to the dme or lme. Due to this I would never personally use any mgso4 or epsom salt because if the mg level gets too high the beer will come off tart and harsh. I think your best bet is to use a gram or two of gypsum and call it a day
 
So with just a dry hop, you are getting a decent amount of BU's or perceived bitterness?
 
I downloaded a copy (3.0.2). The drop downs don't show any variety of dry or liquid malt extract. What did you do to get past this?
I just used the drop down for two row. I figured as long as I get in the ballpark, it's better than nothing.

Given that malt extract will contain the minerals from the water used to make the extract, it's doubtful that using it's "base malt" in a "water chemistry" spreadsheet is a reasonable work-around. But sometimes a happy accident occurs. Best wishes for your beer.

:mug:
 
The curiosity behind my question was on final beer color, "boil" time, and the common practice of adding 50-75% of malt extract late in the "boil".

Sound like a cool experiment. If you do it I’d love to see your results.

everything old is new again: Basic Brewing Video, June 20, 2006, starting at about 7:00 for about a minute.
 
I transfered a version of this to the keg this morning and I've sampled a couple times tonight and I am very impressed. I rarely if ever use extract because I just never have good results but I decided to make water adjustments and see if that helps out, and I'm not sure if it was the adjustments or recipe but this seems far better than any extract I've had before.

I did things a little odd where I whirlpooled some old Cascade hops around 140-150 in 2 gallons of water with just the sugar (corn), adding an unknown amount periodically as I walked by the stove, then added the dme (all extra light, not wheat) and slowly brought up to 180 and killed the heat and let drop down over an hour or so while I went about my day. I then added this to enough water to get up to 6 gallons into the fermenter. I pitched s04 and fermented around 64 for a a couple days, then let rise to 68ish for a few days and finished off around 71 for a few days. Dropped temp to around 40f for a few days before kegging.

I added 3oz citra, 3oz bru-1 and 2oz centennial around 36 hours post pitch and I adjusted my water with gypsum, calcium chloride and lactic acid. Ignoring contributions from dme, mineral calcs are estimated at: Calcium: 116 Chloride: 111 Sulfate: 126

I am excited to try more versions of these, thanks for the recipe and inspiration!
 
I started this recipe over the weekend. I stayed true to the original recipe with just a few changes. I only used 4 gal of water and decided to dry hop with 4 oz. of both Citra and Mosaic. I have been wanting to try fermenting in the keg for a while and this seemed like a good excuse to upgrade some equipment.

Below I just finished adding all the dry ingredients.
20191229_131823[1].jpg


After stirring/shaking everything for a few minutes you can tell there is not much head space left!
20191229_132922[1].jpg


Here you can see the special lid/airlock I purchased so I can ferment in the keg.
20191229_133208[1].jpg


30 hours after pitching yeast I opened up the keg and put in 4oz. each of Citra and Mosaic.
20191230_195454[1].jpg


Here you can see a few more goodies I purchased. Hoping this will make it super simple to purge the serving keg with CO2 as the batch ferments out. I have the gas tube of the ferment keg hooked up to the serving tube on the second keg. Thinking it will fill the serving keg with CO2 over the next week as it ferments out. Later I can swap out the fittings to transfer directly to the serving keg ( ;
20191230_200050[1].jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top