Beginner with Questions

[Sputs10]

Hello,
I am in the process of brewing my first batch!! An Autumn Amber Ale kit with Munton Dry Yeast. I followed the instructions exactly, and have had the beer in the fermenter for over 24 hours. It appears there is a yeast cake on the bottom of the fermenter, and I see no signs of fermenting (no bubbling in blow off container, visual signs in carboy, or krausen). The carboy temperature is 68 degrees F. I'm not overly concerned about the lack of fermentation because it's only been about 30 hours, but should I have a yeast cake already? It is about an 1 inch thick or so. From the research I've done, I found Ale yeast's are top fermenting, and that is what has me concerned.

So... Do you guys have any tips? Should I wait another 24-48 hours and see if fermentation starts, add more dry yeast now, shake the carboy??

Thanks in advance!

 

[boydster]

That's trub you are seeing for the most part. Sounds like it just needs some time, nothing to worry about yet. Congrats!

 

[Jutty]

The yeast you are using, does it suggest rehydrating? Not sure what kit you brewed but I'm guessing it said to sprinkle in wort and stir in (or sometimes not). If you followed the directions, give it time. I've noticed kits that suggest rehydrating yeast, start fermenting sooner (my personal observation from airlock). And well lots of people say don't sweat and airlock that doesn't go crazy but as an intermediate brewer, a bubbling airlock still gets me excited! Everything sounds good, just give it time.


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[MagicalBrewingPanda]

You'll be just fine. If your kit is anything like the ones Ive done that came with instructions, It will be pretty hard to screw up. And yes wait at least 3 days after you pitch the yeast to start assuming its not ok, that is the general rule I feel. Sometimes the yeast just takes a minute to get started.

I'll be the first to tell you if you don't already know, airlock/blow off tube bubbles are unreliable as a sure tell sign of fermentation. It's very easy to get a leak you can't detect. Some of the best brews Ive done never bubbled in the airlock.

And get a hydrometer! It's the only way to know for sure if your beer is stuck or something.

Happy first brew!

 

[wtfDean]

Just gonna echo the second poster and say you are seeing the fine particles of break material and hops settling to the bottom (trub), not a yeast layer. You will know that fermentation has taken off when you see the liquid swirling around.

As for hydrating yeast vs not hydrating yeast, I have only hydrated dry yeast once back when I used it and the results were identical to the tens of times that I didn't rehydrate it, so I personally can't say for certain that it makes a huge difference. I'm sure someone on here has some very technical scientific explanation for why I'm wrong, those are simply my observations.

 

[Walzenbrew]

I wouldn't worry about it...I would leave it alone.

Now if it's been a week and don't see any krausen on the side, then I would start looking into taking a gravity reading.

 

[Sputs10]

Wow...thanks for all the quick responses. I checked again this morning (about 42 hours in carboy), and still no sign of fermentation. However, there is a growing substance on the top. Might be the beginning of krausen, I wouldn't know what it looks like (especially in the early stages). But yesterday the top of the wort looked the same as when I put it in there (nothing on top), and now there is some lite brown substance on top that has covered a very thin layer.

Everything normal?? Sorry for being overly anxious, and I hope that's all this is, but I'm sure you understand. We all have to walk before you can run.

Thanks again!

 

[Sputs10]

I used Munton's Dry Yeast (came w/ the kit). I did rehydrate it per the instructions on packet, and it was 6 months inside of the Best By date.

 

[kcmobrewer]

Dry yeast takes a while for me usually. Especially if I don't rehydrate, which I don't 100% of the time.

 

[boydster]

Patience. Everything sounds completely normal. It is just making it through the lag phase. The yeast know what to do, and they are good at it.

 

[JimRausch]

Most of the Munton yeast packets that I've seen that come with the kits are 5 gram packets. Other brands typically come in 11 gram packets which are usually good for batches up to 1.050 or so. So, although the directions don't let you know, pitching one Munton's packet is usually underpitching. Which means that the yeast have to grow more babies before they get to work fermenting. In other words, expect a longer lagtime with a Muntons packet.
In your last post, it sounds like you starting to see something, so I'm sure she'll be perking steadily by this time tomorrow.

 

[Sputs10]

Thanks again guys! I'm feeling very well assured that I didn't screw something up. I was very particular in sanitizing everything. I even sanitized my hands, since I knew I'd be touching the funnel and stuff.

I'll try to post some close-up pictures later today or tomorrow just so you guys can see what I'm looking at (and drooling over).

 

[CCTjohn]

I was in the same boat as you 3.5 weeks ago. Worry, concern, freaking out! Is this right? Is that right? I decided a new slogan after all the great responses from here and friends that brew... Keep Calm and Brew On! I had action right away and then died off faster than expected. I bottled it last Sunday and I have to say, it smelled just like beer and I can't wait to drink it! I had one friend that kept telling me to remember that monks made the stuff 100's of years ago in much less sanitary conditions and they drank plenty of good beer I'm sure. Keep it up from a fellow newbie!

 

[Sputs10]

Top of Carboy from this morning:

Bottom of Carboy from yesterday:

What do you guys think? Everything look normal so far?

I haven't seen any activity in the blow off container, but not really concerned about that.

So, my plan is to wait at least 2 weeks. However, is there a way to know when it is time to bottle without a hydrometer reading (like something visual)? I learned that I need to get a thief or a bigger turkey baster.

P.S. let me know if the pictures don't work...

 

[Sputs10]

Thanks CCTJohn... I'm looking forward to bottling day.

But thanks for the reassurance. I get thirstier and thirstier looking at this.

 

[Hamaki]

I couldn't see the first two pics but the second two looked fine to me. You should be able to see motion in there, trub being lifted by CO2 swirling around. If that's going on and no bubbles in the airlock it just means you don't have a good seal on your cap or bung. Not a big deal - I use electrical tape to seal my cap for this reason . If you don't have a hydrometer you're probably okay to just wait for three weeks after pitching before bottling. They're not that expensive, though, and a great investment.

 

[boydster]

Looks like you're all set. Now cover that thing up and walk away for 2 weeks!

 

[Sputs10]

I have a hydrometer, just don't have a way to transfer the beer to the hydrometer test jar. That's where a thief or turkey baster would come in handy.

That's why I was looking for a way to visually tell I am ready to bottle.

Is it possible to ruin the beer if it sits on the trub for too long? Let's say I wait 3 weeks to bottle, and should've waited 2.

 

[boydster]

You would have to leave it for several months for it to be an issue. In the meantime, maybe consider grabbing a wine thief or turkey baster like mentioned

 

[Sputs10]

So, I checked the beer last night and there was white foam taking over the krausen. I assumed it was just CO2 escaping the beer. I am also assuming I don't have a good seal on my airlock or stopper, because I haven't seen any activity in my blowoff container. I figured the white foam was normal. I checked again this morning, and now all of the krausen and foam are gone. It appears as if the fermentation process is almost over, but not sure. My plan is to wait another couple days before I even take a hydrometer reading, but what do you guys think? When the krausen and CO2 foam goes away, what does that mean?

Also, I've noticed my beer has changed colors. It's now a lighter shade of brown, but looks cloudy.

Thanks for your help guys!

 

[brewkinger]

To reiterate:

All is normal......

Yeast is starting to flocculate (settle) to the bottom, so it will get lighter as well as appear slightly cloudy.

It sounds like you are getting close to being done. Give it another weeks to finish up. If you are able, put it someplace cold and that will make the yeast dormant and settle to the bottom (called cold crashing)




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[Sputs10]

Thanks for the reply...

It is currently 67-68F. How cold are you referring to? What are the advantages of cold crashing?

 

[brewkinger]

I'm talking down at like 45 to 50° as close to freezing as possible.
Clear beer


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[fuelish]

Here's an idea.....buy another carboy..or 2...or 3....and start new batches...once you have a few in rotation, it'll be easier to let them roll without obsessing on any particular one, and make the waiting easier, as, if you stagger them, one of 'em will always be just about done. I do this with my meads, but....it's still a LOOOOOOOONG wait

 

[Sputs10]

So if my plan is to bottle next weekend, when should I cold crash? I guess I'm asking how long does it take? I don't want to kill off too much yeast right...

Can I go straight from the cold into bottles, or should I get the beer back to room temp first?

 

[brewkinger]

I usually cold crash about 3 days before bottling day. Keep in mind that in northern Vermont this time of year, it is as easy as setting the fermenter out on the enclosed/uninsulated porch.
During the summer, I don't cold crash at all unless my beer won't clear.
So cold crashing is not always necessary, but since it is so easy to do now, I just do it.

As far as killing off too many yeast, not a problem if FG has been reached.
The yeast are done and enough of them are stirred up on bottling day to carbonate.
No worries


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[Hamaki]

So if my plan is to bottle next weekend, when should I cold crash? I guess I'm asking how long does it take? I don't want to kill off too much yeast right...

Can I go straight from the cold into bottles, or should I get the beer back to room temp first?

I think you pitched yeast like March 22 or 23, right? If bottling next weekend means April 5 or 6, probably okay if you're reasonably sure you're at final gravity. If you mean March 29 or 30 I suspect you won't be close enough to FG to avoid potential bottle bombs.

Cold to bottles should be fine but minimize the amount you move the carboy around otherwise cold crashing will have been for naught. Ideally, siphon from the carboy where it sits to a bottling bucket, then carry that to your bottling station.

 

[brewkinger]

Yeah I forgot that point.
My cold crash location is up in the workbench in the brew barn where bottling will be done.


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[Sputs10]

Hamaki, you are correct. I pitched the yeast on Mar. 23. The recipe I am following says to allow 2 weeks before bottling, that's why I chose Apr. 6 as bottling day. It appears as if fermentation has slowed due to lack of krausen, lack of CO2 bubbles, and airlock activity, but I haven't taken an SG reading just yet. I figured it was too early.

After learning about cold crashing, my plan was to get it down to 50F on Apr. 4, take an SG reading just to be safe, and let it sit until bottling day. I'll transfer the beer from the carboy to the bottling bucket in the 50F location (garage work bench). Then I'll return the bottles to the 68F area to carbonate.

That's my plan anyway. Do you guys think that will work, or what would you do different?

Thanks again guys!

 

[Hamaki]

Hamaki, you are correct. I pitched the yeast on Mar. 23. The recipe I am following says to allow 2 weeks before bottling, that's why I chose Apr. 6 as bottling day. It appears as if fermentation has slowed due to lack of krausen, lack of CO2 bubbles, and airlock activity, but I haven't taken an SG reading just yet. I figured it was too early.

After learning about cold crashing, my plan was to get it down to 50F on Apr. 4, take an SG reading just to be safe, and let it sit until bottling day. I'll transfer the beer from the carboy to the bottling bucket in the 50F location (garage work bench). Then I'll return the bottles to the 68F area to carbonate.

That's my plan anyway. Do you guys think that will work, or what would you do different?

Thanks again guys!

Sounds good to me

 

[JimRausch]

One thing to remember: the yeast don't read and they follow their own schedule. She'll most likely be done by 4/6, but the only way to know for sure is to take those serial SG readings.
Also, if it's possible to get below 50, that will give you a better cold crash. I've read in at least one post that you need to get it down below 45, but I don't know where that number came from. My guess is this- in a cold crash you are trying to simulate refrigeration temps which is where the cold haze proteins like to form and settle. Most fridges are in the 40-45 range. I cold crash in a swamp cooler bucket out in my 'cold garage'. If the temp. is higher than 45, I add frozen soda bottles.

 

[brewkinger]

+1 to what Jim said about serial gravity readings. Check it on the 4th when you move it and again on the 6th. If same then proceed and bottle away.

I also agree with the cold crash temp comments. I reread my previous post and realized the mistake.
Below 40 is indeed best.
I can wrap a blanket around the bucket out in the barn and find that my cold crash temps are high 30s to mid 40s an the beer clears very well.
As long as the temps don't dip below 32 for too many days in a row, it is mother natures ferment chamber.


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[Sputs10]

Thanks again guys! I can't believe how much I've learned already, and I'm very greatful for guys like you.

As stated above, those are my plans, we'll see how it goes. This waiting game is killing me!!