Basement Rough Plumbed – Like To Install Sink

[Jiffster]

Hey Folks,
The house we bought 5 years ago has a basement that the owners were in the process of finishing. It has studs and electrical and there is an area designed to be (and framed out) to be a full bathroom. We are not planning to finish the project at this time (perhaps never – might not be there many more years) but I would like to install a sink in that area to use for equipment prep, cleanup, bottling day, etc.

Just a place to wash equipment, etc. not doing the actual brewing. That's in the garage.

There is a pipe in the floor for sewage (4”?).

It's public utilities - not septic.

What would be the best way to go about plumbing this for a sink (hot and cold) and maybe even a garbage disposal?

I am looking for something very simple.

Thanks!

 

[billl]

If you have to ask, it's probably a job for a plumber. You'll need a vent, a way to tie into the waste line, plus the water lines themselves etc and definitely a permit. If you have to dig up some concrete to get the waste line, it could be a substantial job.

 

[Jiffster]

If you have to ask, it's probably a job for a plumber. You'll need a vent, a way to tie into the waste line, plus the water lines themselves etc and definitely a permit. If you have to dig up some concrete to get the waste line, it could be a substantial job.

I was just getting ready to post some pics of the area w/ rough plumbing.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1442278113.573048.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1442278129.044417.jpg

 

[jimmywalker55]

are those the only 2 pipes you have?? The 4 inch in your floor is most likely the rough in for the toilet, and the 1 1/2 coming through your sole plate in the wall is either for a sink, or a vent for the toilet drain, my guess, keep in mind im guessing, the 1 1/2 line can be used for a sink drain, even if it is the vent line for the toilet, just make sure you keep it as a vent also, don't just plumb it directly to the trap on a sink. If you need a few more details I can try and explain it better, I'm just a general contractor, not a plumber, but I do have a lot of code knowledge and some experience. Also, as a contractor, I do have to agree with the person that recommended getting a permit and a plumber if you don't know what you're doing. It's cheaper for a plumber to do it all the right way than to try and fix a mess on a Saturday afternoon!

 

[Jiffster]

Yep, only those 2 pipes. I know that room was intended as a bathroom. There's a ceiling fan and GFI's and a hand drawn plan for the basement.

Not sure what you mean by keeping it as a vent and a drain. Defiantly will get an estimate. I've done a little plumbing. Not a lot.

 

[billl]

Generic diagram of how to vent/drain that. (Assuming it's allowed in your area)

http://plumbinghow1.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/air-admittance-valve-install2.jpg

Water supply lines are pretty easy - and it's obvious immediately if you screw it up! It takes a little practice to sweat copper fittings, but it isn't particularly complicated. Just draw out the lines on paper in advance and make as few turns/joints as possible. Keep the joints away from the studs if at all possible. Torch + wood = fire.

A garbage disposal just mounts to the underside of the sink and just needs to connect to the drain line.

 

[jimmywalker55]

Generic diagram of how to vent/drain that. (Assuming it's allowed in your area)

http://plumbinghow1.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/air-admittance-valve-install2.jpg

A garbage disposal just mounts to the underside of the sink and just needs to connect to the drain line.

exactly what I was explaining, thanks!

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Water supply lines are pretty easy - and it's obvious immediately if you screw it up! It takes a little practice to sweat copper fittings, but it isn't particularly complicated. Just draw out the lines on paper in advance and make as few turns/joints as possible. Keep the joints away from the studs if at all possible. Torch + wood = fire.

Unless you are a masochist, do not go copper in this day and age. PEX is virtually moron proof and requires almost no skills. Exception is of course if you live in one of the very few remaining "copper only" code areas.

 

[Jiffster]

Unless you are a masochist, do not go copper in this day and age. PEX is virtually moron proof and requires almost no skills. Exception is of course if you live in one of the very few remaining "copper only" code areas.

Thanks, I'll look into this!

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Thanks, I'll look into this!

It requires two tools you do not already have:

Crimp ring crimper +-$40
Plastic tubing cutter +- $5

It can be run like "Romex" (NM cable) in that you can fish it through walls make turns, etc without fittings (unless it is a tight 90). The fittings are more expensive than copper or PVC but you only need them at the terminations...so likely just four in your case.

You can even save the cost of the crimper above by using Sharkbite fittings but the increased cost of even 4 fittings can often pay for the tool. Nothing is easier than Sharkbite fittings.

 

[Jiffster]

It requires two tools you do not already have:



Crimp ring crimper +-$40

Plastic tubing cutter +- $5



It can be run like "Romex" (NM cable) in that you can fish it through walls make turns, etc without fittings (unless it is a tight 90). The fittings are more expensive than copper or PVC but you only need them at the terminations...so likely just four in your case.



You can even save the cost of the crimper above by using Sharkbite fittings but the increased cost of even 4 fittings can often pay for the tool. Nothing is easier than Sharkbite fittings.

Sounds very promising. Just watched a video and it looks easy!

So if it's going across the ceiling and turns to go down a wall, do you need a fitting?

How do you splice into an existing pipe to add a "T", do you just loosen the pipe from wherever it's fastened to allow it to move so you can slip the T in place?

 

[mabrungard]

That small line is the drain for the sink. You still need to get your water supply there. I'm assuming its overhead.

If this is intended primarily for brewing, a large mop basin works very well. Here is my installation. I used a shower faucet assembly for the water supply and use a washer water supply line and a nozzle to serve as a sprayer. Works well.

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Sounds very promising. Just watched a video and it looks easy!

So if it's going across the ceiling and turns to go down a wall, do you need a fitting?

How do you splice into an existing pipe to add a "T", do you just loosen the pipe from wherever it's fastened to allow it to move so you can slip the T in place?

Depends on what you have now for plumbing and where it is. The absolute easiest is find a dead-head water line that was left for future expansion.

Second easiest is find a 90 where an existing water line makes the turn from horizontal to vertical to go to a fixture. We will assume you have copper for this example. Turn off your water, cut the pipe as close to the elbow as possible on both sides of the elbow. At that point, insert one of these:

http://www.sharkbite.com/product/tees/

Then connect your PEX and terminate it somewhere (shut-off valve or the faucet) before turning the water back on.

You can follow the same process in a straight run of pipe but you have to the cut the right amount out. Normally when you replace a soldered copper elbow with a shark bite tee it ends up about the right amount cut out.

As far as making the turn at the wall, as long as you can keep the minimum bend radius in t joist cavity (which you should be able to), no fitting needed.

 

[Jiffster]

Getting ready to cut into copper supply pipe to add shark bite t fitting to install PEX tube. Is this going to interfere with grounding?

Look close at picture where ground wire is connected to pipes. I'm planning to tap into the 2 water lines towards left side of pic.... Between joists.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1446080386.111858.jpg

 

[Onkel_Udo]

Your house appears to be modern enough that that grounding is totally unnecessary unless added for cable, internet or phone. Even then, if you are worried, buy four of those grounding clamps, use two 4" pieces of 12 gauge bare copper wire and jumper around the sharkbites.

That said, our fresh water is not distilled water so actually conducts quite well...not as well as saltwater.