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Anyone try BRY-97 yet

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This is an IPA I'll secondary and dry hop. How many days before you think I should make that move? I love this place. Such helpful people. I've only been brewing for like 4 months.

Thanks


Sent from the toilet
 
104 hours in and it looks and smells so good. This yeast definitely tests your patience, but it looks like it's going to prove worth it.

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Sent from the toilet
 
You need not secondary just to dry hop. Once fermentation is complete, you can do so in the primary and save yourself a step.
 
I'm a novice brewer. Why do you say no secondary? Some are one side of the fence, some on the other.


/Will always still be figuring it out/
 
I'm a novice brewer. Why do you say no secondary? Some are one side of the fence, some on the other.

Transferring to secondary increases your chances of contamination and oxidation. It's not really necessary. I leave most of my beers in primary for three weeks, then bottle or keg. Comes out clean and clear every time.
 
Transferring to secondary increases your chances of contamination and oxidation.

The fear of oxidizing one's beer when racking from a primary fermentation vessel to a secondary fermentation vessel is unfounded. There is a greater chance of ice cubes forming in Hades then there is of oxidation occurring when green beer is racked from a primary fermentation vessel to a secondary fermentation vessel in a home brewery setting. The minimal amount of oxygen that is picked up during the transfer is rapidly consumed by suspended yeast cells. Oxidation is only a serious threat after beer has been filtered. Brewers bottle bottle-conditioned beer in non-purged bottles on a regular basis without significant oxidation occurring.
 
I am a dyed-in-the-wool cultured yeast brewer (I plate and slant almost all of the yeast that I use), but I love dry BRY 97. Dry BRY 97 may test one's patience, but it produces a great beer. Unlike BRY 96 (a.k.a. "Chico," 1506, WLP001, US-05), BRY 97 is a yeast strain that requires an acclimation period before it performs at its best. The first repitch is better than the initial pitch. By the second or third repitch, BRY 97 is firing on all cylinders.
 
Second or third re-pitch?? What the hell are you brewing?? :)


/Will always still be figuring it out/
 
As a yeast rancher, I tend propagate yeast from slant most of the time. However, I crop over the summer due to the high level of airborne microflora. I like BRY 97 a lot more than BRY 96. BRY 96 (a.k.a. Chico, 1056, WLP001, US-05) is the tofu of yeast strains. :)
 
Contrary data point: in reading many of the posts on this thread, I was expecting a lag phase of 36-48 hours. I didn't see many (if any) quick starts on this yeast. That said, I have 2 batches that were pitched at 3:30 AM on Saturday morning, and by 3:00 Saturday afternoon, I had Krausen. It caught me by surprise. The only reason I even checked was because I was checking the gravity of a hard cider I'm brewing. I quickly affixed a blowoff to my 5 gallon carboy due to minimal headspace, and was thankful. Both started at the same time, and look to finish at the same time. Granted, both brews are sessions, weighing in at 1.042 each.

If they turn out decent, I may have to pick a few more of these packets up for future brews.

It is just about the ugliest start to fermentation ever. The yeast stratified at the bottom, then rose to the top in a diarrhea like clump. Then the whole thing fell apart and is now swirling around in the fermentor like a flushed toilet after a night of heavy drinking after a chili cook-off. Happily, it doesn't smell that way. ;-)
 
It is just about the ugliest start to fermentation ever. The yeast stratified at the bottom, then rose to the top in a diarrhea like clump. Then the whole thing fell apart and is now swirling around in the fermentor like a flushed toilet after a night of heavy drinking after a chili cook-off. Happily, it doesn't smell that way. ;-)

Dang, guy! You painted a word picture that may have me using some other yeast in the future! ROTFL

Seriously, what temp are you fermenting at? If over 68F it would explain the more vigorous activity.
 
Dang, guy! You painted a word picture that may have me using some other yeast in the future! ROTFL

Seriously, what temp are you fermenting at? If over 68F it would explain the more vigorous activity.

Its at an ambient temp of 60. So give a few degrees higher at 64-66.
 
Its at an ambient temp of 60. So give a few degrees higher at 64-66.


That should be spot-on from the experiences I've had with this strain. Might be like a golf - if the shots were pretty or ugly doesn't show up on the scorecard. The only thing that counts is the final score.

Best of luck!
 
I've used this yeast a few times, both for a dry stout of around 1.044 SG. Mashed at around 149F and got about 72% ADF. The beers were good. The batch at 68F was only slightly estery, and the 72F batch has a bit more ester and slightly more tart. Both cleared easily.

I have not had good experiences with WLp051 or Wyeast 1272, but the BRY-97 worked very well. It was, as has been mentioned, slow to start. I saw very meager signs of fermentation by about hour 24-36.
 
Both blonde ales came out clean but did not attenuate as I wanted. It went to 72%. Both are tasty. I'll probably try it again, because the price is right. Its not at all bad for a dry yeast.
 
Since this thread gave me the strength to stick it out in the yeast's adaptation phase, I think it would be beneficial for me to tell my experience with the yeast.

I rehydrated the yeast early, it was rehydrated in 100F water about 4 hours prior to pitching. It was rehydrated in a sterile jar with sterile water and was left to cool to temp in the basement with sterile aluminum foil.

I pitched the yeast into an aerated carboy, and then shook the whole thing up to incorporate the yeast. The carboy was placed into my 18.5C basement.

I then waited.

And waited. And waited. And waited.

It wasn't until 45 hours in that the yeast finally showed signs of forming a krausen.

The yeast was pitched into about 15 litres of 1.066 wort.

For what it's worth, that's my experience so far.
 
Since this thread gave me the strength to stick it out in the yeast's adaptation phase, I think it would be beneficial for me to tell my experience with the yeast.

I rehydrated the yeast early, it was rehydrated in 100F water about 4 hours prior to pitching. It was rehydrated in a sterile jar with sterile water and was left to cool to temp in the basement with sterile aluminum foil.

I pitched the yeast into an aerated carboy, and then shook the whole thing up to incorporate the yeast. The carboy was placed into my 18.5C basement.

I then waited.

And waited. And waited. And waited.

It wasn't until 45 hours in that the yeast finally showed signs of forming a krausen.

The yeast was pitched into about 15 litres of 1.066 wort.

For what it's worth, that's my experience so far.

I don't want to have to rain on your parade, and what you have done may still turn out OK. But there are a few problems with your technique that you might want to address next time.

First step would be a visit to Danstar's website to read the full written instructions for use of this yeast:

http://www.danstaryeast.com/products/bry-97-american-west-coast-beer-yeast

The yeast should be rehydrated between 86F - 95F. 100F is too hot and may have killed some of the yeast cells.

The 4 hour delay following rehydration will certainly lead to a significant loss of vitality from the yeast. They were hungry when you woke them up and you gave them nothing to eat. Many of the of the yeast cells died of starvation before they ever got to the wort.

Rehydration should take no more than 30 minutes in most cases. According to the instructions the yeast should remain on the warm water for 15 minutes, then begin to attemperate the yeast slurry to within 10F of the wort temperature then innoculate without delay. Otherwise there will be a loss of viability of the yeast.

You do not need to aerate wort that is going to receive a dry yeast. It won't hurt anything, but most dry yeast manufacturers do not recommend aeration of the wort prior to pitching. (This is exactly the opposite of instructions given with liquid yeast.)

Keep an eye on it and I hope it turns out OK for you.

Cheers! :mug:
 
Puddlethumper,

Thank you very much for the constructive feedback. After reading through all 41 pages of this thread I came to the realization that my process was far from perfect. I've definitely learned a ton, and it will be a small miracle if there are no off flavors from stressing the yeast in this batch.

I had no idea that there is no need to aerate the wort when using dry yeast. I thought yeast needed dissolved O2 for a healthy environment. Do you know why this isn't the case for dry yeast?

Cheers!
 
I had no idea that there is no need to aerate the wort when using dry yeast. I thought yeast needed dissolved O2 for a healthy environment. Do you know why this isn't the case for dry yeast?

It is my understanding that the process of making dry yeast somehow equips the yeast cells to do just fine without aeration. And a couple of yeast package instructions I have read say very flatly that there is no need to aerate the wort. I can only assume there is sufficient o2 dissolved in the wort to meet the yeast's requirements.

Take this with a grain of salt as I am not enough of a chemist to properly understand or explain the specifics.

Hope all goes well for you!

Cheers!
 
I've used this a few times, with variable results.

The 1st time I used a 2000 ml starter on a stir plate and (krausen was coming out of my starter before I pitched) when i did pitch I had active fermentation within an hour
I believe it took a 1.065 down to 1.001 or .002 pretty amazing

2nd time i tried the yeast starter again and it overflowed a second time nocking the aluminum foil lid off of the flask. And I found fruit flys in it so I had to dump it and just pitch a packet dry

It took about 2 days to really get going and finished around 1.024 due to a horribly hot mash 165 degree mash. (Whoops I learned on that one ;)



Primary 1 arrogant bastard clone no3


Primary 2 sublimely self-righteous clone no1

1gal #1 arrogant bAstard with scorpion pepper

1 gal #2 self-righteous w/ *undecided*
 
I'm finally getting around to brewing with this yeast again. I harvested 2 jars of yeast when I first used it. Since that was 4 months ago, I decided to use both jars in the starter I made this morning just to be sure I had enough viable yeast - btw, saving wort from a previous batch made it super quick getting this starter going.

Anyway, about 12 hours later, the starter is super active and will definitely be ready for my brew day tomorrow. I'll be sure to post an update on how the fermentation goes over the next few days. I suspect I won't have the lag issues that most have experienced when pitching new/fresh packs of this yeast.
 
some things I like about this yeast- strong hops flavor and aroma in my IPAs, and fermenting "clean"ly at 65-75 degrees.

However, using the packages and then the yeast slurry in several batches shows this yeast so slow to clear that it makes S05 look flocculant. I'm use to clear beer by day 15 or so, and this yeast does not produce that at all for me.
 
some things I like about this yeast- strong hops flavor and aroma in my IPAs, and fermenting "clean"ly at 65-75 degrees.

However, using the packages and then the yeast slurry in several batches shows this yeast so slow to clear that it makes S05 look flocculant. I'm use to clear beer by day 15 or so, and this yeast does not produce that at all for me.

I remember noticing that when I used it before. I don't care much about how long it takes to clear in the fermenter. But I like a yeast that stays nice and compact in the bottle when I pour it.

I used Wyeast 1272 for the first time recently and really liked the way it behaved. If this batch doesn't beat out the 1272 in that category, I might have decided on a 'house' strain for American pales and IPAs.
 
Well, the starter took off and was finished within 24 hours. I pitched it a little warm (~76°F) and it took off again. Less than 6 hours after pitching, the airlock is rocking and it is at 72°F.

I'm sure the slightly warm temp is helping it move along, but also having tons of fresh yeast from the starter did the job. Either tomorrow or the next day I'll be adding a little sugar. I'm guessing that will ensure a solid attenuation.

So, harvesting this yeast works fine, even after letting it sit in the fridge for 4 months. None of the lag issues I had the first time around.
 
I just kegged a pale ale I made 10 days ago. OG was 1.050 and final is right on 1.010 or 1.008 hard to read
I calculated 43Ibu's. while tasting warm flat beer can be deceiving I have I say it tasted better going in than out.
Hopefully when it's cold and carbonated up it will taste better.
Fermented between 68-70 degrees.
 
I like this yeast. I used it in a few dry stouts. Clears well, fermented slowly. It has more yeast character than 1056.
 
"Quick start and vigorous fermentation, which can be completed in 4 days above 17 °C."---Lallemand


44 hours and all is calm at 17.8 *C:

IMG_20141027_081735_012.jpg

I am not amused.
 
My second brew with this yeast went very differently than the first. I had no signs of fermentation until 45 hours in last time, from a dry packet.

This time I made a starter with yeast I had harvested 3 months earlier. This time I had active fermentation in 8 hours, and everything was done within 5 days.

What a yeast, it seems so unpredictable.
 
My second brew with this yeast went very differently than the first. I had no signs of fermentation until 45 hours in last time, from a dry packet.

This time I made a starter with yeast I had harvested 3 months earlier. This time I had active fermentation in 8 hours, and everything was done within 5 days.

What a yeast, it seems so unpredictable.

That actually lines up with experiences I've read: re-pitches start quickly, but the dry seems to take a while to wake up. Hopefully that's it and not low viability in the dry packs.

I came home today at the 54 hour mark and had a thin krausen.
 
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