They were out of stock when I first looked at them, too. But, There is a link on the page to get an email when they are back in stock. I got a reply in a couple of days.
I've now brewed a couple of batches on the foundry and so far I'm impressed. I still need to tinker to improve my efficiency rate.
This my first time using a pump and I'm kicking myself for not getting one before. I do have a question re the pump. After recirculating the mash, how do you empty what's left in the tubing? I close the valve on the foundry, but the pump will not push the remaining wort into the kettle.
silicon adhesive if you really need the gasket.Anybody else having issues getting the gasket to stay in the groove of the lid? What's the trick to keeping it in place?
No reason at all why you couldn't do this. You could also do a no sparge full volume if you'd like as well. These are just guidelines that you can adjust as needed. I generally have stuck with the 1 gallon sparge on most of my brews but on some bigger grain bills (~18-19.5lbs), you need to hold more water back for sparging just so the grain bill fits. So Ive sparged at 1.5g on these bigger grain bills myself.So I'm trying to plan my 2nd brew on the Foundry and have a question. Is there a reason to only sparge with 1 gallon in their instructions? Is there a reason why I couldn't adjust my mash volume to use more sparge water?
I use the Anvil recommended volume of water for mashing and sparge water to bring up to my boil volume. The only time I got a stuck mash was when I use less than the recommended volume of mash water. I have over 25 brews with my Anvil an love it.So I'm trying to plan my 2nd brew on the Foundry and have a question. Is there a reason to only sparge with 1 gallon in their instructions? Is there a reason why I couldn't adjust my mash volume to use more sparge water?
Yesterday I completed my third complete brew day with the foundry. Still got more trub into the fermentor than I wanted but will keep trying. I want to thank whoever suggested the shopvac for getting hop and break material out. Really sped up cleaning to the point if I can get the trub problem worked out I may not worry about a hopspider.
I don't have a Foundry yet, but my calcs say you can mash 21 pounds in 8.24 gallons of 'pot'. The basket might be an issue, but you could always mash in a bag instead.What's the most grain any of you have used in the 10.5 Foundry? I'm looking to brew a Wee Heavy and based on my efficiency, I need to use 21 lbs of grain and my mash thickness ends up coming to about 1.35 with a 1 gal sparge.
I know the manual recommends a limit so am I in for a painful brew day trying this?
That's exactly what I've been using while deliberating if I should use the Anvil or just go back to my propane BIAB setup. I would like to use the Anvil but not if it's just going to be a disaster brew day.I don't have a Foundry yet, but my calcs say you can mash 21 pounds in 8.24 gallons of 'pot'. The basket might be an issue, but you could always mash in a bag instead.
https://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
I use the water per lbs of grain that Anvil recommends. The one time I didn't, I got a stuck mash. Anvil's water recommendation are set with their design. You could probably add 21 lbs, but have no room for water to mash.I don't have a Foundry yet, but my calcs say you can mash 21 pounds in 8.24 gallons of 'pot'. The basket might be an issue, but you could always mash in a bag instead.
https://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml
Maybe you misunderstood my post. Ditch the basket and don't recirculate. Just use a BIAB and there is nothing to stick.I use the water per lbs of grain that Anvil recommends. The one time I didn't, I got a stuck mash. Anvil's water recommendation are set with their design. You could probably add 21 lbs, but have no room for water to mash.
What's the most grain any of you have used in the 10.5 Foundry? I'm looking to brew a Wee Heavy and based on my efficiency, I need to use 21 lbs of grain and my mash thickness ends up coming to about 1.35 with a 1 gal sparge.
I know the manual recommends a limit so am I in for a painful brew day trying this?
In my 6.5 anvil latest batch I tried was a “poly-gyle” mash. Brewstrong podcast talked about it with Blichmann a while back. My process was stuff the anvil with base malt and mash no sparse to end at target volume for second half of the mash. Second mash was majority base along with all the speciality malts. Total malt bill was ~15#. Came out pretty good my pre-boil volume was a little short but not terrible.What's the most grain any of you have used in the 10.5 Foundry? I'm looking to brew a Wee Heavy and based on my efficiency, I need to use 21 lbs of grain and my mash thickness ends up coming to about 1.35 with a 1 gal sparge.
I know the manual recommends a limit so am I in for a painful brew day trying this?
Are you recirculating too?I know there’s been a lot of talk about increasing efficiency with the system. Per suggestions here and other sites, I made a single change - milled at .035. Went from 63-67% to 75-80% with absolutely no other changes. I have yet to have a stuck mash at that grist size, but I haven’t yet brewed anything with a large amount of oats, wheat etc.
I also bent the heck out of the chiller to get it to sit deeper in the malt pipe, and have more of it submerged. Seems to help the process.
Are you recirculating too?
I know there’s been a lot of talk about increasing efficiency with the system. Per suggestions here and other sites, I made a single change - milled at .035. Went from 63-67% to 75-80% with absolutely no other changes. I have yet to have a stuck mash at that grist size, but I haven’t yet brewed anything with a large amount of oats, wheat etc.
I also bent the heck out of the chiller to get it to sit deeper in the malt pipe, and have more of it submerged. Seems to help the process.
What was your previous gap?
I have two brews on my Anvil and didn't change anything yet and got mid to high 60's BHE. Ready to change my mill gap on the next brew. Think I'm right around 0.040" - 0.042" right now.
Did you mess with water chemistry yet?
Thanks
I did not previously mill my own grain. The LHBS said they were about .045”. I have always adjusted water based on my local water report.
Just for clarity, I have the 6.5 version. Before buying a mill and changing the grain size, I was using a modified BIAB method (bag in malt pipe) with recirculation, acid and water adjustment as needed, both sparge/no sparge . Only parameter I changed was milling my own grain and knowing each time what my gap was.
I had 10 brews on the anvil prior to getting the mill, and 4 since then. The efficiency has been consistently 15-20% higher
Figured somebody might be curious as to how the CuSS chiller might fit and how it compares to standard.
I put the brewhardware no weld whirlpool arm in there too. Pushed about as far as it will go, it is about 11 coils down, or approximately where the top section appears to flare out on last ring.
No dip tube in there in this pic, but it looks like it will clear no problem. I did let them know when I placed the order that it was for an Anvil Foundry
I have a Cuss sitting in the box until my next brew day. Really looking forward to the combo of that and my cool well water. Should cool really quick!
I was chilling with that whirlpool arm, the stock chiller, ice water bath in a cooler with my little 265 Gal/H and 3/8” hoses and got down to 65 in about 40 minutes or so.
Next brew day, using the CuSS, 1/2” hose and a 660 Gal/H so I’m expecting much better results.
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