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Another TSS2 controller box build

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He may have gotten some of the 14/3 power cable that you can buy that has the stranded wire inside - it's also color coded. I think if I remember correctly that I used the 14g stranded wire that you can buy at HD/Lowes in ~20' rolls in different colors. I think he's OK with the stranded as long as he doesn't have any of the strands sticking out that could cause a short with another wire.
 
I am not going to use the shredded wire, I am not comfortable with that. I am even going to tie the shreds coming out of the power cord to a single wire.

Speaking of the power cord, I can easily identify the ground wire but there are two stranded wires. How do I know which is hot and which is neutral? Or can I just treat one of those as hot and the other as neutral?
 
The neutral wire typically has writing or is ribbed or has some other identifier... it is part of the electrical code that the neutral wire be identified somehow.
 
I have not had the easiest time with this:

* dealing with the stranded wire on my power cord is freaking me out, little strands keep falling off and making me wonder whether the result won't be a loose connection/fire hazard

* the STC 1000 I purchased has no space for an "always on" outlet

* STC 1000 does not fit the metal gang box I purchased

I am going to purchase another (deeper) gang box tomorrow as well as another cover plate.

At this point I am also concerned b/c I removed the tin solder on the end of the probe wires when I tried to remove the wire insulation in an effort to better fit them to the STC 1000. Now I have more wire strands and I am wondering whether that won't affect the probe operation. Will it?

Finally, I am glad I had a chance to test out my Dremel skills on the 4 gang plate before trying again with the 3 gang plate. I may have cut too much, the STC 1000 looks like it wants to fall right out. I see that most folks leave one clip on, I can't seem to get it attached so that one clip will connect and allow the unit to lie flush with the face of the wall plate. Any suggestions for making the cut on that one side of the face plate opening?

Oh yeah, and does it matter which ports the neutral and hot wires connect to on the power ports? Or are they interchangeable?

Sorry for the stupid questions, I feel like a complete idiot. Not going to give up but do feel like a complete idiot.
 
still working through a keezer build...slowly slowly. mocked up my controller, but am not an electrician. the idea is to mount the controller at the front of the keezer, with the outlets in a box on the back and the connecting wiring running through the lid/insulation. outlet on the left is "always on" and outlet on the right is "switched." Of course, I don't want to toast the controller or catch my house on fire. feedback welcome!

controller mock up.jpg
 
except for that exposed copper on the neutral at the power supply of your controller (cut shorter?) this looks like outlet A is always hot, outlet S is switched (when you get your probe connected)...so looks good


Maltoftheearth - the controller won't give you an "always on" - you wire that from your main power cord.
Hot and neutral may not need to be designated on the controller, it's alternating current anyway -
See altrob's photo
 
5724-dual-temp-control-unit.jpg


I did it! The unit is currently plugged in and working. Woo hoo! Thanks for all the help, I feel as good today as I felt bad earlier for not understanding this stuff. Learned a lot, on to building a RIMS system!
 
Looks great, glad you stuck it out! Electrical is pretty easy stuff once you get the basics down. It will come in handy knowing the basics too if you do any amount of DYI, heh.
 
Looks great, glad you stuck it out! Electrical is pretty easy stuff once you get the basics down. It will come in handy knowing the basics too if you do any amount of DYI, heh.

Yeah, this point was not lost on SWMBO who was quick to point out that I can now install a dimmer switch in our dining room.

I have no idea what people did for DIY prior to the internet. There is no way I would have attempted this without help from this board and others.
 
Great DIY Tutorial. I bought my supplies this morning and ordered my TSS2-2100 as well. Now I just need wait for it to come in :(

Now off to rearrange the garage to put in the freezer chest.
 
Still working on my keezer and wanted to pass on a piece of advice to future builders. Be careful when you go to purchase parts to make sure you know exactly what you want and are ready to install them...check the return policy and don't wait too long to return if you don't need them. Lesson learned!
 
I received my controller today and finished my fermentation chamber controller tonight. I was able to test it and it worked perfectly.

image-954096782.jpg
 
Nice work - it looks good. :mug:

Thanks. I got the freezer I plan on using for a fermentation chamber today. It's 17.5 cu ft. I can fit four 6.5 gallon ale pails in it or I can fit six 5 gallon glass carboys. It should be awesome.
 
I just wanted to share my Ebay Stc 1000 temp controller build based on your design.

ebay_temp_controller.jpg


Here's my wiring diagram for the STC 1000 in case anyone does what I did and stumbled into this thread like I did looking for a way to wire their's up. As others may have noticed, the back is a little different than Tom's love.

Wiring_Diagram_copy.jpg


Great thread though, I like having the always on and the dual plugs for heating and cooling.
 
Nice job Revvy... I've actually used the always on a hell of a lot more than I ever thought I would. It is really handy.

I assume you plug the freezer into the"cold" outlet, the heating element (light bulb, blanket,aquarium heater) into the "warm" outlet and the controller does the rest. Do you disconnect the freezer thermostat somehow, or doesn't it matter?
 
Nice. This is going to be way easier than I thought it was. So much easier in fact, that I might bury all the wires and plugs underneath and run the controller up the door next to the handle.
 
So how do I know which one of those controllers is the right one for my freezer?

Either one will work ( TSS2 Love, Or STC 1000) just make sure you are ordering a 120 volt in the USA so you don't end up buying a control transformer for the unit.

He's just showing you an extra outlet that was added that's always on (live) in case you need lights to get your brew. LOL!
 
Why is every wiring diagram showing a black and red and not a black (hot) and white (neutral) wire? Is the red here the neutral? Getting ready. To wire mine this weekend
 
Why is every wiring diagram showing a black and red and not a black (hot) and white (neutral) wire? Is the red here the neutral? Getting ready. To wire mine this weekend

I think that in this thread there is only one diagram that shows wiring with red. It that particular case it is the neutral (I believe) as the power input is 120V.

Please keep in mind that it is near impossible to show a white neutral wire on this forum as the page background color is white. In my diagrams I show neutral as a yellow line. It really is the drawers choice after all. No?

Hope this helps.
 
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